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Everything posted by Egilman
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Yep a 400 stroker, lose a little in the top end but almost double the torque.... (ie. never get beat off the line) Most races are won at the start..... That would surprise a lot of people.... Mine was a '73 C-10, Edlebrock tuned CJC 350 with 2.02 heads, hooker tuned headers, 4" collectors, packs, in an old grey primered forest service long bed stepside.. Was loud until the cops gave me a noise ticket... Then hung 3.5" turbo mufflers behind the packs, noiseless at normal throttle after that... 5.72 in the rear end, beat everyone to the 1/8th pole.... pull anything anywhere..... Put your foot in it sounded like SIR on race day.... That was a fun truck.... Everything was tucked up next to the frame rails so you couldn't see the 4" pipes ducking out from under the bed step..... The hot cars were the 350 ci monte's around here, with everyone thinking they were Big Daddy, or Don Pru.... they would throw an RV cam and dual exhaust in them with racing tires on cragars and think they had something special.... Took a lot of money off those boys till they learned.... Don't mess with the junky old chevy pickup...... Those were the days my friend....
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Phew!!! Made it through that one..... The hull halves and decks are glued together... Doesn't appear that any twist developed.... Now I get a bit of cleanup and all those tiny fiddly bits that make up the deck furniture, bits, bollards, winches, turret rings and such.... They need to be installed so they are out of the way Onwards.....
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Building a Medieval fortress - by Waitoa - Del Prado 1/87
Egilman replied to Waitoa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Well I see the MSW Stone Masons Guild is taking off..... Gonna have to consider membership.... -
National ensigns at sea fly from the mainmast.... while in port they fly from the sternpost.... The mast that sticks up from the forward superstructure is the foremast and the one from the stern structure is the mainmast.... (doesn't matter the actual size or height of the mast itself) Rules of the sea hundreds of years old.... The names of the masts come from ship building custom, the foremast is always the first mast, the mainmast is usually the second mast on a warship with two or three masts...... The rigging is fairly simple, a flag halyard rises from a stanchion or anchor spot, up to the flag yard or jib boom thru a fairlead/pully and down to the stanchion again...
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- prince of wales
- tamiya
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1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)
Egilman replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Lesson learned brother, in the future, Canopy glue, (white PVA) makes a good substitute for CA, especially for panels with large surface area.... Like CA, it doesn't attack the plastic.... -
Your modeling a mid to late war FM-1, there may be chipping but you wouldn't see most of it, maintenance on these birds was almost constant since they had complete facilities readily available, capable of almost completely rebuilding one of these... Like the ships they served on, they were constantly being painted and cleaned up.... Army birds serving in forward areas didn't have the maintenance facilities in the forward areas that the navy shipboard aircraft had.... If your going to put it on a carrier deck base, the aircraft should be mostly clean..... minor very small chipping, almost no oil stains, and very little exhaust staining..... You want to see the difference in what I mean, research marine squadrons that served on carriers compared to those that served ashore..... Navy maintenance facilities and practices were legendary..... One more note, Pappy Boyington once received some replacement corsairs from the navy, hand me downs from a carrier squadron, he thought someone had screwed up and sent him brand new corsairs, but each aircraft had over 1,000 hours and 200 arrested landings on it.... Navy aircraft were very well maintained aboard ship....
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Actually, this is what it corrected to, I used a heat gun very judiciously with weights to relieve some of the stress..... It's about half of what it was.... If I go much farther I'm afraid of cracking the upper hull in the middle.... Right now it pulls down good and leaves a nice smooth, mostly even seam along the waterline.... once I paint the boot topping and put it in the seaway it will hide any residuals... There isn't enough room underneath to add any structure unless it's metal, I think I'll be better off welding it together and letting the plastic take the shape it wants to as long as no twist develops... The seaway it's going to be sitting in has an 8-10' swell that should cover any residuals..... Thanks for the suggestions.....
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AMEN Brothers!!!! For a first build, Very, Very, well done..... Something to be proud of....
- 211 replies
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- prince of wales
- tamiya
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Another small update my friends... I've found that my upper hull has an issue.... it's bowed... It shows up with the main deck laying on the upper hull.... That gap between the main deck at the foc'sl break and the hull.... So I guess I'll have to mount the upper to the lower hull, this will pull out most of the bow... (and disguise what remains) Probably the best way forward in the long run for adding the furniture and superstructures.... It also means I'm probably committed to doing a seascape at this point, a rolling seaway would be the best display option..... If you can't fix it, hide it..... (and reminds us that even as good a kit this is none of them are perfect, they all have their issues) EG
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As far as the grade and sizing of blocks, remember, an old country church wouldn't have the level of expertise in stone masonry that the big cities would have, a simple stone cutter in the city would be a project manager or master builder in the country..... When the church would order a monastery for a hamlet out in the boonies, they would send a stone cutter on a mission to get it built, it's how a stone cutter got promoted to stone setter/builder in the guild..... The stones may look rough, but that is the way it was and lends an authenticity to the construction.... your solution to the different sized stones resembles many such fixes I've seen when I was studying medieval arch... The work was difficult and hard and they wouldn't tear down a half built stone wall to fix that kind of error..... They would adapt to the error and continue the build.... I think your doing fine, good work.... (understanding that there is a learning process going on as well) EG
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It is absolutely refreshing to see one as adept as you in properly weathering aircraft.... there are a number of them in this forum, and I for one (of many I'm sure) that would just love to see an in-progress build... That being said, anything you proffer would be appreciated as we not only appreciate the finished object, we appreciate the work and skills it take to do it.... Some of us actually try to replicate such given our feeble skills using examples like yours as inspiration.... Please share more..... EG
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I used to have one like that as well, until covid hit and she disappeared, USPS hasn't come to the door since..... (they don't even get out of the truck if they can avoid it) Me too, and FedEx at least still comes to the door, none of them ring anymore and I'm beginning to wonder about FedEx..... What I really hate, is Amazon using the USPS on Sundays.... The Mail people really hate it as well, according to the ones I've talked with, they don't get paid extra for working sundays delivering packages..... Anyway, deliver us some 427 goodness brother, and we can at least know we have been delivered something worth the wait....
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Ok another short update.... Decaling the decks..... Not for the faint hearted, and I don't know if your even going to be able to see them on the finished model.... Those greyish strips on the deck surface are supposed to represent the anti-skid stripping the crew put down.... (they were pretty much the "Peel n Stick" variety so the yard personnel had more important things to do) In real life they are black but they just disappear in the deck blue surface.... once down, all you can see is the decal film..... I guess I'll have to see what they do when flatcoated.... They are taking more time than I thought they would, it's not like putting decals on a car or airplane, The decals are nice though, no trimming needed, they have no film edge.... Might not see them at all, anyways, I KNOW they are there... {chuckle} EG
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Your lucky, the only one that comes to my door now is FedEx, the rest just drop them over the fence onto the grass.... (in a plastic bag if it's raining) At this point I insist on tracking with my shippers and I dedicate an open tab in the browser while each are in transit.. I also signed up for delivery notification where they e-mail me what's coming in the mail, so far it has only gone haywire just once, and that was for my GMM etch... That's when I went to the PO and told the PM it was a 50.00 envelope, and a claim would be forthcoming if they lost it... She assured me it would be in the box the next day.... it was... Is it a wonder that Amazon decided to create it's own delivery service?
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Interesting on the PE, I usually paint mine first, but there are so many ways to do it go with what you know.... Beautiful PE work btw..... The Flap looks good..... I figured it was going to be a sculpting job given it's shape....
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