Egilman
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Everything posted by Egilman
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Agreed, it's just getting too risky to leave it to the post office's good graces..... they are just simply getting way to lax and the costs of the goods is getting way to high for that type of laxity.... -
Ok another short update.... Decaling the decks..... Not for the faint hearted, and I don't know if your even going to be able to see them on the finished model.... Those greyish strips on the deck surface are supposed to represent the anti-skid stripping the crew put down.... (they were pretty much the "Peel n Stick" variety so the yard personnel had more important things to do) In real life they are black but they just disappear in the deck blue surface.... once down, all you can see is the decal film..... I guess I'll have to see what they do when flatcoated.... They are taking more time than I thought they would, it's not like putting decals on a car or airplane, The decals are nice though, no trimming needed, they have no film edge.... Might not see them at all, anyways, I KNOW they are there... {chuckle} EG
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Your lucky, the only one that comes to my door now is FedEx, the rest just drop them over the fence onto the grass.... (in a plastic bag if it's raining) At this point I insist on tracking with my shippers and I dedicate an open tab in the browser while each are in transit.. I also signed up for delivery notification where they e-mail me what's coming in the mail, so far it has only gone haywire just once, and that was for my GMM etch... That's when I went to the PO and told the PM it was a 50.00 envelope, and a claim would be forthcoming if they lost it... She assured me it would be in the box the next day.... it was... Is it a wonder that Amazon decided to create it's own delivery service?
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Interesting on the PE, I usually paint mine first, but there are so many ways to do it go with what you know.... Beautiful PE work btw..... The Flap looks good..... I figured it was going to be a sculpting job given it's shape....
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I use all three methods, the first two don't have everything available although they do have good general coverage of most stuff. another option is to become a member of many modeling sites and ask the membership if they have any suggestions.... I've found a number of out of production gems that way.... Researching aftermarket products is almost like doing historical research simply cause there is now so much out there....
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I've had this happen to me several times over the last year, so far I've been lucky, but that was after a discussion face to face with the Post master here in a customer full lobby about them doing this with my packages... The typical excuse is the substitute carrier but I haven't had my regular carrier for some time now.... and then it is always covids fault, heck everything is covids fault..... I guess the next time I go down there and have a temper tantrum over crappy mail service do you think I would get away blaming it on Covid? {chuckle} I didn't think so.... The mail service has become a real joke over the last year or so.... UPS and FED-EX aren't much better....
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Not so much looking for trouble, but ready for it if it comes..... And my opinion is you've nailed it...... Well done my friend....
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That's not really a bow wave my friend, A bow wave would swamp a small boat encountering one, that's a bow ripple, exactly as it should be.... Something you will never see unless the light hits it just the right way... You post a bow on pic that is absolutely perfect.... You don't need any white water to show action..... If you create a sea state with 5'-20' swells THEN you will have white water, particularly if your running under some power, if you create a ship traveling at 27-30 kts you will have white water and a rooster tail with a huge wake... (and yes battleships could and did put up rooster tails) You have a beautiful depiction of a ship on cruise, easy water and smooth sailing...... But the water is live, the ship is live, together they depict a classic understated power..... Exactly what a classic british battleship should state... You have managed to capture something that few modelers can.... and many try.... I wouldn't change a thing.... It's stunningly beautiful....
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Very Very nice... but just one note, stain doesn't stick to metal, so they were painted 20B Deck Blue... But once the stain on the wood fades a bit, it's next to impossible to tell them apart....
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Brother, we all flap our mouths, if we didn't we wouldn't be here..... (well in this case twinkle our finners over the board) Years of practice? been practicing since I was born.... (according to some people) And according to the war department my mind hasn't been in gear for a couple of decades..... Keep on keepin on brother, don't let anyone stop you.... (and if they try they will deal with me and I'm sure several others around here)
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Yeah it does especially when driving into an approaching sea like those two US battleships are doing.... what causes that bow wake is force throwing the water to the side, that is what a clipper bow is for to turn the water.... Both those ships are above 15 kts at least probably closer to 18, (the South Dakota probably even faster than that) which was normal cruising speed for the fast attack groups in the pacific..... Your ship my friend, all I can say it is looks right on in my humble opinion.... you need some swell in the water to cause a bow wave, and your water is fairly flat and calm.... Beautiful model..... Well done...
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Update on the deck painting.... 20B Deck Blue was the darkest color on the ship, but when painted it was very close to 5-N Navy Blue, also, the decks took a lot of abuse and were constantly being repainted so they have a splotchy look...... Two coats.... It's actually too splotchy here so I needed to get a third coat down.... You can see from the shininess that it isn't completely cured yet, and the blotchyness is there but much subdued from the two coat stage..... Next step is to let it cure completely, put down a very thin coat of future, and install the anti-slip deck decals.... Then touch up the hull edges, assemble the deck on the hull and give it a thin dull coat..... Deck sitting on the hull... Soon I'll be superstructuring!!!! Onward...
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Of the four destroyers, two were repainted in Norfolk NS just days before they left, I don't believe the Gwin was one of those repaints... The Hornet was repainted as well, judging from the pics I would say that the paint has three month wear and tear on it..... That would be right about the time some fading and salt streaking chalkyness would start showing up.... The Gwin was taken off convoy duty about a month before joining DesDiv 22, she would have been repainted at that time..... So I think it fits what she should look like..... Thank you Lou, great minds think alike.....
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That's what we are here for brother, my pleasure....
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It's those subtle changes that take a model from being very good to masterpiece.....
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#1. Yes they do.... #2. Yes, the metal is 20B deck blue and the wood Norfolk 250B flight deck stain if flying off a full sized carrier.... (flying off an escort carrier it could be either the stain or deck blue paint, check your references) #3. Depends on how much detail you want to add... they would be inset into the wood surface, and down the middle of each inset slot you would make a narrower, deeper slot to relieve the tabs so you can slip tiedowns ropes under them.... Get a good pic of the deck with a measurable known distance in it.. (like an aircraft wheel or wing so you can measure against your model) Simple math will give you the scale distance they should be apart, draw two thin lines, with the grain, representing the tie down strips across the surface equidistant apart at whatever you determine the distance between the strips should be..... Using a steel ruler and fresh sharp razor blade, cut each line, only deep enough to match the strip thickness... Now, you chip out the material between the cuts giving you an inset relief for the strip... If you want them to be functional, again using the steel ruler take a scoring tool and scrape a slot down the middle of each inset to give the clearance under the hooks for your tiedown lines.... Not hard to do, but it is some work, just remember to use fresh, sharp tools and take your time..... Final detailing would be scoring plank lines in the rest of the deck section between the strips.... That is the way I would go about it...
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Good to see ya back at the bench brother.....
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1/48 Italeri Hawk T.1A (On Hold)
Egilman replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'm here brother, lurking in the corner in the back..... -
It was the 1974 Firecracker 400. Entering the final lap, Pearson was leading followed closely by Petty. Fearing that Petty would do a slingshot pass, he slowed a little, pulled his car off to the side to simulate a blown motor, and threw his hand up in the air as a motion of defeat. Petty quickly passed opening a lead of several car lengths exiting turn 2. Using the draft, Pearson closed in quickly down the backstretch and through turns 3 and 4 and drew right behind Petty. Coming out of the final corner, Pearson pulled to the inside and did a slingshot pass back to win the race by a car length... Considered one of the greatest races Nascar ever ran..... The drivers gave him the nickname "The Silver Fox" after that race.... not too many drivers could say they outraced Richard Petty for a win.... (especially during Petty's dominant period)
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Right now given the pics you've posted she looks like she is doing 10-12 knots in the channel or over smooth seas.... the look is perfect... you don't have a ton of wake and no bow or stern wave I would say leave it the way it is.... looks to good to mess with anymore in my humble opinion....
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Another update..... Finished the basic camo pattern on the port side...... The stern..... And a pair of perspective views, Port & Starboard bow..... Port.... Starboard... Time to let it fully cure before overcoating it..... Meanwhile, I start on the decks...... 20B Deck Blue, looks more like a dark grey in the bottle... but first I have to fill the holes for the forward K-guns, the Gwin only carried 4 K-guns launchers two each side abreast the #3 5"-38... Making progress...
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Well the "Or Else" statement is something I avoid at all costs if possible.... Never tried it with acrylics but I imagine it would work if one figured out the techniques needed for it.... Scale here is the main issue for doing it this way, larger scale models have easier ways of doing it.... Lets see how it comes out in the end..... Well if the popcorn starts falling like rain, we will just have to break out the popcorn catchers.... (falling nuts we break out the sling shots for target practice)
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