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ScottRC

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Everything posted by ScottRC

  1. My shop has low ceilings and I am clumsy, so I can relate to this Vlad. I'm mastering the art of rebuilding bowsprits. You'll get it sorted out and fixed. You are doing such a fine job on her.
  2. I have been using the Paasche VLS 3 for over thirty-five years. Its is double action and is adaptable for very fine to wide heads and needles. Its also siphon feed and has been great for small and large projects. It takes a little to set up, but once its dialed in, its fantastic. Its also at a decent cost.
  3. What the head cement is really good for is securing seizing, which is what is practically done when tying a fly.
  4. I was turned on to using fly tying head cement after watching my father in law use it tying flies. Its designed for thread and dries flat with one coat, or apply several for more gloss, moisture resistant, and stays pliable. It injects easily through a syringe or it can be brushed on.
  5. I started making the mast steps, hoop, pintles, and pinrails for the masts on my 3D printer.
  6. I am learning that once you go with wood, its hard to ever use plastic again.
  7. Kevin, Your mast bands, hoops and cheek blocks are outstanding. I need to fabricate all new mast details on my Thermopylae rebuild, and have thought of 3D printing these details except my printer is FDM, so the detail tolerance is limited.
  8. Dry test fitting of the parts I have shaped so far. The Dolphin Stryker needed some cleaning up and re-drilling and fits right up to my fabricated parts.
  9. Started building a new bowsprit. Its too long for the lathe so I resorted to the old power drill technique. I think I am getting the hang of it.
  10. First test fit of the main seems to be going well. Cross tree fit is good and a little more trimming on the top for the mast caps for a perfect fit. Full photo of the dry fitting of the masts. I am quite pleased at how well the natural color of the walnut will match the pre-painted plastic parts that I am not replacing.
  11. First test fit of the mizzen, so far, so good. A little more filing and the mast cap should fit right on.
  12. Worked on the lower masts this weekend and also the new bowsprit. I had to order some stock brass rod and wire and also ordered a couple of packages of brass rings for the banding and comings. Both the new lower main and mizzen have been cut and are now being fitted out.
  13. Are your models of the Essex from kits? I am a big fan of the Essex and so far have only been able to obtain the old 5/64 scale Model Shipways kit which is pretty much a block of wood to start a scratch project with. I too end up in need of small blocks and deadeyes.
  14. I am hoping to be able to salvage the deadeye assemblies. We will see. The majority have a lot of glue mixed with cotton thread in them.
  15. The walnut dowels I ordered came in. I plan to use these for a new lower main and mizzen, and will build a new bowsprit. I haven't used the lathe in many moons and look forward to making new parts with it. The bowsprit was a complete mess and needs replaced. The Dolphin Striker however can be re-used.
  16. Got the mizzen and main masts taken off and stripped. The main was pretty brittle and the plastic crumbled under the least amount of pressure. Both the lower main and lower mizzen were warped extremely bad and it looks heat related from either exposure to direct sunlight, or too much glue. Anyway, I am slowing removing all the old rigging and trying what I can to save the deadeyes.
  17. I'm impressed you did all the modeling in Blender alone, I use it for animation and rendering but have not had the patience to 3D model in it. You are very talented with your skills, both modeling and in 3D printing.
  18. Rob, Congratulations on a fine representation. Your rigging skills and attention to scale are impressive. I hope a museum will take you up on your offer, it will make a fine historical display and others should enjoy it. I hope someday to make it back up to the Bremerton area and hopefully will get to see it in person. Scott
  19. Thank you Ian. I have the Underhill book, I guess I better start using it.
  20. Ah Daniel, those guns are soo authentic. The most frustrating, un-enjoyable part of the Revell Constitution build for me was trying to get the two piece barrels to align, then all the filing, filling, and sanding to make them look somewhat presentable. That was some years ago. Now onto your gun deck build. That looks like a fun project that would look good presented next to the fully built ship. As always, your attention to detail and scale is superb. Scott
  21. Wow Bill and Ian, your woodworking skills are very impressive. Bill, thank you for detailing how you built your case. I have been interested, well, actually ordered by the Admiralty and our four cats, to build a case for my Constitution or else its safety cannot be no longer guaranteed in my house. I have pretty much the same setup in my shop as yours, just lacking some experience with cabinet joinery. What were the size of Optix sheets did you get? This was a very good build log. Scott
  22. I need some help with selecting rigging thread and block sizes. I have been shopping around and its confusing to the types of rope and diameter that would be the most efficient for this model and my skillset. So many choices. I have never used wooden blocks before and there are several styles and wood types. I have been reading the tutorials here on tying up the blocks and I think this is a good exercise for me to try my hand at. My plan is to rig the ship as in port, without sails. I am at a loss on selecting a good rope for the standing and running rig. For the standing rig, the current measures about .010" or .25mm. It looks thick. What would be an appropriate diameter for the running rig? About how much should I order for a 1/96 scale clipper, without sails, since the rope is sold in either a few feet or by a few yards. Would single block sizes be 3mm? I haven't yet decided if I am keeping the current plastic deadeye set up, or try making new ones along with chain plates. I have been going over the many threads here and there is a lot of techniques to look at. Deadeyes look to measure at 4mm. Scott
  23. Still cleaning away, taking inventory, and working on a plan. Its taking a lot of time getting decades of dirt and dust out of all the corners and seeing how much rework will need to be done.
  24. Rob, I have always been fascinated with clipper ships and have been a seasoned lurker of your build logs and use of both plastic and wood, and I am very impressed with your rigging and your detail of scale, so expect to hear from me with questions. I also will PM you in the future to take you up on your generous offer. I did the mast re-enforcements with steel rods on my Constitution and it worked very well.
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