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ScottRC

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Everything posted by ScottRC

  1. ScottRC
    The crimping tubes are great. I learned of them when rigging the control wires on a 1/32 WW1 biplane. Saved me a lot of pain and frustration.
  2. ScottRC
    Welcome back Vivian and congrats on the marriage. I'm excited to see how these sails turn out. They are looking very nice. Scott
  3. ScottRC
    Hi Rob, My mother, who got me into ship modeling, bought a Scientific Sea Witch back around 1976 and never built it. I now have it and really think it would be a good candidate to try some small scale scratch building. It computes to 1/158th. I just need to get two other projects completed and then I can start the Sea Witch. Scott
  4. ScottRC
    Hi Rob, Your documentation of your rigging process is going to be invaluable for me since I am interested in working in the smaller scale. Everything is looking very refined. Scott
  5. ScottRC
    Your deck coloring is spot on, good job!
  6. ScottRC
    I agree about priming under just about any paint. I build a lot in 1/700 and use acrylics. I will do a light base coat primer, usually Krylon flat white or Tamiya gray primer, then will either brush or airbrush light coats of thinned base color. It's important to keep the coats light and thinned because it's so easy to get the paint thickness to appear out of scale and cover up details. Priming does a number of positive things; it brings out any blemishes that can be corrected, it gives a good biting surface for the paint to adhere to, and it allows you to adjust your base color hue from light to dark.
  7. ScottRC
    Your idea using cardboard and making a cover is making me wonder why I didn't think of that. I have a 1/96 Constitution on my workshop shelf that is 98% complete and waiting for funds to build a case for it. I will put our idea to work this weekend.
  8. ScottRC
    Many years ago, I took a class in fly tying and acquired the tools. To this day, I have tied maybe six flies, but the vise, thread bobbin, and head cement has been excellent for seizing and threading on small parts. The bobbin is a must to keep the thread manageable.
  9. ScottRC
    Smart move on laying down good primer coat, it will make your overall finish much more easier. About the decks, I chose to fill and sand the gaps, and then re-scribed the deck lines with a small strait edge and . If I was to do it again, I would probably re-plank the decks with a thin veneer. Scott
  10. ScottRC
    Nice tutorial on how you did your netting Jesse.
  11. ScottRC
    I also completed a 1/700 CV2 Lexington this year, and for Christmas, received a 1/700 CV16 in WW2. So now my goal is to have a model of all the ships called Lexington. Here is a pic of all three. Scott
  12. ScottRC
    Its been almost four years ago and I forgot about this build log. I did finish the Lex and hopefully get a display cabinet built in the future for it and all my Dad's certificates and burial flag. Here are the completed pictures. I hope I can say that I actually completed my first build log.
  13. ScottRC
    Those boats look much better, very scale. Great work! Scott
  14. ScottRC
    I have had the same problems with painting copper over gloss surfaces and vise versa until I was taught the following technique: - Spray a coat of matte clear over the entire model, including your topcoat, this will seal the topcoat and give both the tape and bottom paint a textured surface to "bite" into. - Lay your mask down, as was said, the Tamiya range of masking tape is the best. They now make tape that fits contours. - Spray a coat of clear over the mask at your demarcation line, this will add an additional seal. - Then spray your next color and let sit for at least a full 24 hours if its enamel. It takes a long time for this to cure. If not fully cured, it will peel off in sheets. - De-mask, inspect, wipe clean all mask residue with a mild solvent, then spray on a few light coats of clear gloss, let sit and enjoy the finish. Scott
  15. ScottRC
    This is an interesting subject you are building. I will want to follow along. Ironically, I grew up near Fort Benton MT and now live south of Kansas City. I someday would like to pursue building a model of a Missouri river packet someday. Scott
  16. ScottRC
    Etubino, I will be following your build log as well, I am trying to start a Scientific Sea Witch. Scott
  17. ScottRC
    Jim, When I read you first post, it sounded like you just took up painting as a hobby for retirement, then I saw your work and thought man, you didn't retire, your on a career. You have all the chemistry for good nautical illustration than so many professional illustrators seem to struggle with. Most important, you have mastered perspective, depth of field, and scale. That is very hard for a lot of illustrators to do, for out of scale features stick out and throw the scene off balance. I really like your work. Scott
  18. ScottRC
    Maybe only cover a small section of each wing, fuse, and tail? It would be a challenge, especially masking and painting the markings and adding the pinking so everything lines up and then the transition from the covered section to the exposed section looks balanced.
  19. ScottRC
    Good to hear that the ailerons actuate for its really looks great. Balsa USA will probably the kit I go with, they have a great reputation and support. In building for RC, I cheat go go with servos for I do not trust my rigging skills. At present I am building a 1/32 scale plastic SE5, my first one, and find that rigging a bipe is much more complicated than I thought as compared to a square rigged ship.
  20. ScottRC
    Hi John, Sorry about your father, I lost mine a few years back and he was like yours in that he support me both through my hobby and my career. I have been following your detailed build log because I have love of bi planes and am planning on building possibly a 1/4 or 1/6 scale Sopwith in a few years. I see you share your workshop with a set of Ludwigs. I also share mine with a Ludwig Standard and just purchased a complete set of Pearl Sessions. To your build, I am amazed how strait everything came out without the use of jigs. Since all the rigging is so detailed, maybe I missed it, but do the ailerons operate?
  21. ScottRC
    I am glad you are doing this build log and would like to say that you are coming along very well and addressing some issues that I have been coming across as well with solid hull kits. hopefully, I can get back to some ship modeling and to a solid hull of the Sea Witch. I think it was wise of you to go with the primer on the hull. Gloss lacquers or enamels do not work well with adhesives, so you end up either sanding the gloss finish or using a primer to create a surface the adhesive can "bite" into. Best regards, Scott
  22. ScottRC
    Hello Nenad, I have been away for a few months, and have enjoyed catching up with your posts and the nice work you have been doing on the ships boats and life in Serbia. Cheers, Scott
  23. ScottRC
    I got started with reading the whole Hornblower series in High School. Alexander Kent's, a pseudonym for Douglas Reeman, and who just passed away recently, Bolitho series has almost the same storyline as Hornblower. Both authors are easy to read. Reeman also wrote a series of books about the Royal Marines, Merchant Marine, and the Royal Navy in WW2. I just finished the O'Brien series. Took me awhile to get into his writing style. I felt he could be quite winded with either too many details, but once I got the feel of his prose, I took a big liking to his novels.
  24. ScottRC
    Great start. I did the same thing in college. I built the Revell Santa Maria in my dorm room, used acrylics and pastels. Kept my rigging chops up. Count me in to follow along on your progress.
  25. ScottRC
    I wanted to update a recent experience I had this past few weeks. Over the years, I used "Headly's" fly head cement, which is epoxy based and has an odor than will drop a fly a 1000 yards, has a quick cure time, and required acetone to clean up. I dropped my jar and it broke so I went to the outdoor store to pick up another bottle and they informed me they no longer carry it. They gave me a water based, non toxic head cement called "Loons Clear Head". And they are correct, not a odor at all. Better yet, I can put it in a hypo needle and apply it and then wash out the needle with hot water to reuse. It has a slower cure time but can spray a dab of their water based solvent on the area of application and it cures almost instantly. The epoxy based cement always had a high gloss when cured, this new cement dries dull. I am about 70% through putting the sails on my Constitution and have used it on all my knots and seizes on the mizzen with happy results.

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