ScottRC

I have been using fly tying "head" cement for years. My father in law tied flies and when he was teaching me to do it, all I thought was what a wonderful adhesive this was for seizing. Most cements had a strong odor, but pretty much all today are oderless. I have not tried Fixament.

Thanks Doc for the link. I think I got what I needed. Scott

I am so glad to see this build log, for I have this same kit that I really want to start in the near future. I will be watching with full interest. Scott

Glad I came across this thread for I just picked up one of these saws at a garage sale for $10 a few weeks ago. It was missing blades, the miter, and had about 25 years of dust on it but after cleaning it up, replacing a few missing nuts and a new power cord, it runs nice. I ended up using it a SKill 4" 44 tooth and a 4" riptide blade. Still pretty rough cutting for what I like to do. Also need a miter. I'll keep an eye out on ebay. Scott

I would have to admit, that looks like it would be an impressive builders model. I also liked the history of this type of ship and was surprised how many are still in service.

In comparison to the testimony given by Captain Marshal, Its interesting that the testimony from the sailors sound so upbeat and that they were giving the enemy a good licking, like they are going to give a negative view of the fight to a bunch of admirals and senior captains.

Hi Chris, Long time since I've been here and wishing you well on this build. The stern galley looks wonderful. Very crisp and to scale. Cheers, Scott

Ah Nenad, they say life is a box of chocolates, and when we get our age, we look into a box full with many empty wrappers with just memories of enjoying the sweet chocolate. You are still fortunate, beautiful kids, a job, and your love of working with your hands and mind. I know how you feel, I lost parents, and although I have my wife, I have lost my child. Worse of it, it does seem to all come at once. But we get over it, the doldrums of life will again open up to some warm prevailing winds and we can sit down and enjoy building a sailing ship to take us to our thoughts and dreams and away from reality for awhile. Scott

Might have taken 120 hours. With the help of Jim Beam, I was able to interpret the French instructions.

She is looking wonderful Nenad.

Hi Pat, Don't sweat losing a cannon or two, I have had many go shooting off into space never to be seen until the model is complete and I find the dog chewing up the lost part. If you don't find it, your jury rigged cannon should look fine. Scott

I'm pulling up a seat and watching as well. Always been interested in Dursek kits and models of this period. Scott

Hi KP, Great tutorial on applying washes and tones. I know of a few new members who are doing plastic that I recommend seeing your posts. I see your setting up the shrouds off the kits deadeye assemblies. How are they secured? To the main rail or are they connected to the chain plates? Reason I ask is that I have set up the ratlines on the Thermopylae, Alabama, and Constitution using a similar technique. On the both the Thermopylae and Alabama, I did not have them secured enough and a while later, close to completion, they broke loose. There will be a lot of tension placed on them as the construction gets completed. Looks like you have them pinned in so I am curious how you did it. Scott

The stern is coming along really well. How is to work inverted though? I'd put something on backwards.

I call it a fantasy just to have the skills you have to build such a beautiful model.

Hi Charlie, You say those that come after you, well, I am planning on starting the Scientific SeaWitch in the near future and am very interested in trying your techniques. Scott

Good day Pat, got your PM and thanks I see you may not be ready to jump into the deep end of the pool, and that is perfectly ok. As I said, this kit is a wonderful 1st step into ship modeling without getting too bogged down. I would now suggest to build the kit and do the basic rig as per the instructions. This will allow you to test your level of confidence and patience. With the basic running rigging, the plastics ratlines should stay on without too much bending of the masts. If you do not have the following, get them: A good magnifying lamp, a set of tweezers, and a pair of small, sharp scissors. These tools will make rigging a much more enjoyable experience. Are you going with or without sails? It will affect how you position the spars. I am at the point of doing the sails of my 1/96 Connie right now so it would be easy to walk you through it. I'll try to dig up some of my old tutorials on painting decks. Work and taxes have me pretty busy this time of year but I should be able to post some pictures soon. But here is an early pic of my 1/96 Connie. I did a dark brown/black mix base coat and then an light gray wash and dry brushed antique white. I think I also did a more step by step instruction on a build log for my USS Lexington here on MSW, but I have to find it. My memory is pretty goofy right now due to work and tax time. On your deck, I would do a technique called "dry brushing", which i'm sure you might be familiar with. Get a flat, wide sable hair brush, dip it in some light gray or antique white paint, then with light strokes brush the paint across a scrap piece of plastic, paper, or cardboard until only very thin, light, dry coats of paint will result from the strokes. Then brush across your deck. This will tone down the contrast and will give a blending, weathered wood appearance.

Hello Patrick, Welcome to the wonderful art of model ship building. You are starting with a great kit to get the "feel" of how a sailing ship would go together. I have built this particular model a few times and also used artistic license by painting it blue once, so don't worry about being accurate with colors, the point is to have fun and enjoy what you are accomplishing. I see your kit has the plastic ratlines. Please consider looking into rigging these yourself. Many of us here can talk you through it. The reason I say this is that these smaller Revell plastic kits, well, the masts like to flex and bend and trying to keep those plastic ratline assemblies from popping off as you rig is a big pain. Also, like on a full sized ship, rigging the shrouds and ratlines gives those plastic masts a lot more support, so when doing the standing, and later, the running rigging become much easier because the masts are not flexing all over the place. Overall, everything will look more to scale and you will be pleased with the results. For the deck, maybe give it a wash of black acrylic, then wipe the acrylic off while its still wet, this will stand out the deck seams, then give the deck a wash of light gray to tone and blend the wood brown, tan, and black. So keep up the good work and we will be here help you out if you need anything. Scott

White and Yellow, especially acrylics, are noted for the tendency to bleed and show brush marks or faded areas if airbrushing. I too am going to repeat what has been said. When painting light colors, especially on wood, make sure the wood is sealed and then paint a base coat of a light colored primer, I like Kiltz, Krylon, and Tamiya Mr Surfacer, then lay the top coat. You may still have to put on a second coat, but a good base of sealer and primer will allow the top coat to apply evenly and you will have a nice, balanced finish. Also make sure the brush is the correct type and will load up well and discharge the paint evenly with your stroke. Too many us us will stir, shake, and then start thinning the paint when in fact we are not using the correct type of brush. For large areas, such as the bottom of a hull, I pretty much use the airbrush. On plastic modern ships, I do almost all my painting with an airbrush, but for wooden models and models of period sailing ships, I like to use a brush because I like the artistic affects I can do with paint on wood better with a brush.

I use v21 Deluxe and have been impressed with it. I tried Pro under a trial and really didn't see much difference other than if you were to do large, multiple 3D assemblies and needed to file management support.

A non toxic, easy to make, substitute for clay that backfires when introducing it to young children. Its pretty much flour, some Kyro syrup, and salt mixed with water into a paste. It can be poured into molds, or shaped and sculpted, and then baked to hold form. After its baked, it can be carved, like an old piece of salt tack. I remember my Kindergarten teacher making it for us to sculpt Christmas ornaments. Somehow, after these were baked, the ornaments had a appetizing smell so I licked mine, a Christmas tree, and it tasted good, so, along with the mint flavored paste used to glue on additional decorations, became an afternoon snack. The dog also thought they tasted good. After getting told by the teacher to quite eating the dough and make my dang ornament, I did happen to get a really cool Christmas tree made, complete with lights, tinsel, bulbs, and a gold star on the top, that any six year old would be proud of. My parents were proud too, and let me hang it myself a full 3 feet from the ground, just far enough for our spaniel to take notice, and around midnight, turn my beloved ornament into a late night snack. About twenty years ago, I was helping my mother clean out some old boxes when they were moving to a new house, and at the bottom of one box, was a half eaten, salt dough ornament of a Christmas tree. Other then a few minor cracks, it held up well for forty years.

Mark, the perseverance is paying off, its looking spot on, good luck with proceeding further in the build.

I had the same problem, this last month my old sander died. After a ton of research, it looks like all the power tools under $250 come from the same factory. I went to every home supply and tool supply place and was able to physically look at each model and what features they had. I was also limited to about $200 and found the Ryobi and Skil to be the best out of what was on the market for under $200. I got the Ryobi, under $150, in my shop and just finished using it on a project using oak and found I really like it. Its quiet and has little vibration from a sander in this price range, has a 2" outlet for my shop vac, The belt release was a little hard to get adjusted at first and I am replacing the plastic adjustment knobs with a higher quality. The belt table and guides are all good cast aluminum. The disk table is sheet metal and cast aluminum which was a bonus, most other makes are cast iron and plastic and about as flat as banana. Came with a decent miter. Hope this helps.

I know how all this is, we have engineering partnership in Serbia. They are at work now while I am off and then I get back to work, they go off for a two week holiday. Kinda hard to get anything done and the bosses want it all done by end of January. Whew! makes for really long days at the end of the month. But, I am glad to see you get time with the kids, and much needed relaxing time with the Cutty Sark. Take care, Scott

Mark, your work at perfection is paying off