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drumgerry

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Posts posted by drumgerry

  1. 3 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

    Im little worried about only using CA as it might not last for years. Maybe before you totally close the hull add PVa to inside where planks meet the frame.

    I started with CA also but then turned to PVA only. Now i use it only in really difficult situations like glueing 2nd planing stern and bow parts etc.

    Otherwise good job!

    Honestly I'd say I don't have any concern over using CA glue.  I've used it for gluing guitar bindings for nearly 20 years with no longevity issues.  It's something you have to be careful of if you're putting colour on top of it and it can stain certain woods but durability isn't a problem.  I think it's what Chuck Passaro uses to attach his planks and Mastini uses it in combination with PVA so if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me!

     

    And Geowolf maybe voodoo would be your thing with the pins and your boss etc?!

     

    Thanks for the continued words of advice and encouragement guys.  It helps keep me motivated.

  2. Thanks for that Geowolf. Yep using the pins is a good method for sure.  The good thing about the CA glue is you can hold the plank where you want it and then the glue sets very quickly.  Despite the photos the planks are pretty evenly attached to the Hull.  In any case it should clean up fine when I sand it! 

     

    All the best, Gerry

  3. It's been a little while since I last posted but made a bit of progress at last.  

     

    I'm in the midst of the first layer of planking and it's enjoyable.  I'm using my instrument bending iron and it works very well.  Also using a technique from instrument building to fix the planks - water thin CA glue wicked on to the bulkheads and neighbouring planks as I go along.  Occasional use of CA accelerator to immediately glue any awkward bits.  Messy but effective and I only need my hands as clamps.  One of the tricks is to use a whip tip on the glue bottle which allows quite precise application. 

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  4. Thanks guys.  The encouragement really helps!

     

    I think I've made my first mistake but it's not my fault yer honour - I think I might be able to blame Occre for this one.

     

    The two wee filler pieces at the bow are shown as flush with the false keel on one page of the instructions and on the next page set back from the bottom of the false keel.  Pics to make clearer below.  I'm thinking setting them back a little would have made fairing easier and I'm going to have to remove a lot of material so that there aren't silly bends in the planking there.  Thoughts and comments most welcome!  

     

     

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  5. Thanks for the very encouraging words Steven.  I have decided to just go for it and start a build log.  There seems to be many parallels and cross overs between building model ships and lutherie.  I'm sure many of you on here would turn out fine musical instruments if you put your mind and skills to it.

     

    All the best,  Gerry

  6. So I was a little bit scared to start a build log in the face of all the amazing work on the forum.  But if you don't try, you don't learn.  And after all no-one might read it and it'll just be a personal log for me to document my wins and losses.  

     

    So here goes.....

     

    HMS Terror.  Pretty early stages at the moment.  I have the bulkhead and deck assembled and the seemingly endless deck planking done.  The transom is attached and I have the bulwarks clamped and bending as we speak.

     

    I've given the deck a wash of tobacco brown stain that I have for one of my other activities just to give it a less brand new look.

     

    Already worrying about the planking......

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  7. 3 hours ago, ccoyle said:

    I have seen some very nice 'faux' tiger-stripe maple rifle stocks made by using this technique -- usually for old-style Hawken, Kentuck, or Pennsylvania rifles.

    Chris - commonly known as a sunburst or burst.  Specifically this is a tobacco sunburst and comprises only two colours  - some bursts have a red between the dark outer and the gold inner. I use transtint dyes and an airbrush  - both things I'm hoping to make use of also in ship modelling.

     

    Thanks for the kind words and welcome Michael.  Glad to be here.  It's an amazing forum chock full of highly skilled builders!

  8. Again thanks guys.  A build log might be a step too far at this point for me!  But I'm already planning future builds so for sure next time.  

     

    I think the bending iron will work a treat but that's easy for me to say at this point!  Luckily I don't have to buy many more tools for modelling than I already have so that's good.

     

    Below is a pic of my current mandolin build before any finishing.  Ironically it's getting a kind of oil varnish that they use on boats!

     

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  9. Hi all

     

    I joined the forum a little while ago and have been avidly reading build logs and other posts.  I thought it was about time I introduced myself.

     

    I live in NE Scotland and my main activity is being a carer for my disabled son.  In my spare time I also build musical instruments (guitars, ukuleles, mandolins) and have even sold a few 😉.  In the dim and distant past when I was a kid my dad and me built Airfix kits together culminating in the HMS Victory kit.  It's something I have very fond memories of. 

     

    So....after much dithering I bought myself a kit the HMS Terror by Occre.  I'm not too far into it but I can see I'm going to enjoy it. In fact some of my lutherie skills are readily transferable.  I bend instrument sides and instrument bindings all the time with an electric bending iron and it's something I'm very comfortable using.  Planks for model ships are not unlike instrument binding strips so I'm thinking why not use my bending iron and am slightly surprised they are not commonly used by ship modellers.   I've attached a pic of the one I have for your interest (or not!)

     

    Anyway glad to be here and all the best to you all

     

    Gerry

    bending iron.jpg

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