AnobiumPunctatum

Well it turns out the massive main hatch wasn't big enough. I made a measurement booboo which meant that the hatch was 1 cm too narrow. So...I had to rip everything out and redo most of the supporting structures.
 

After I made the repairs I started on the main hatch coamings and ledges. They were assembled by forming the same 90" radius for the longitudinals and the 26" radius for the ledges (concave and convex) and milling half lap joints. A strip was laminated onto the logitudinals to form an inside rabbet while the rabbet was milled into the ledges before they were bent. The strip on the longitudinals was extended to overlap the gap on the ledges. 
 

 
 
The cross pieces (battens) were tricky to make and I will redo them at some point in the future. The end stops are very difficult for someone of my limited chiseling skills. They too must be bent to match their respective orientations.



Mast parteners were straightforward and dropped about 2mm below the carlings and the underside rounded up to fit the respective curves. The mast is raked 2 degrees so I was as precise as I could be in positioning it (although it is not glued in place yet). The companion coaming abuts the forward end of the parteners and will be later fitted with a ladder.
 
 
Cheers,
 
Ian

Greetings,
This update seems minor but it took quite a bit of time to complete the planking to the ceiling and then to shape and install the floor and futtock riders. Now I need to determine whether I can poly the floor planks and riders without compromising future gluing operations. Comments, criticisms welcome.
 
Ian
 

A quick update folks. I have planked the fore platform and installed the scuttle. One notable departure from the plan is that I decided to chisel the breast hook corner flush so that the margin plank fitted over it. As is explained in the book, the reason it was left intact was for strength in this critical area of the hull. I actually tried the other way first but concluded that it didn't look similar enough to David Antscherl's version (see B&W photo - I hope it is ok to reproduce the occasional photo from the book David, please let me know if not) that protruded a bit higher. So the shipwright decided that this would allow more deck space. 😁
Ian

I anticipated the hatch grating would be the toughest job in the build, so I put it off until near the end. The practicum outlines a couple of methods of making the grating, but both require gluing up individual grating ledges into a “sandwich” with PVA glue and then dissolving the glue in isopropyl alcohol once the notches for the battens are cut. I took a little different approach. I did this all with a Byrnes saw and a disk sander, so most scratch builders can use the same technique First, I decided to build the hatch coamings to fit the grating and not vice versa. The gratings are made of 2 different parts : The grating ledges – the parts with the “teeth” that define the holes in the grating, and the battens, which fit into the spaces between the teeth. The ledges are 3/16” thick and the battens are 3/64” thick. The teeth and the space between them are all 5/32” square. I milled some 3/16” boxwood for the ledges and glued a grating ledge side template to the edge of the strip. Preset the depth of cut to 3/64”. I then carefully cut the teeth and recesses for the battens. A sliding table for the Byrnes saw makes this easy work, but you can do a fine job with just the miter gauge. Once the grooves for the battens are cut, turn the blank over and draw a line across the bottom of the blank, parallel to the grooves and close to one end. This will orient the pieces when it comes time to assemble the grating. Mill a piece of boxwood 3/64” thick. We’re ready to cut ledges and battens. The last photo shows the pencil line on the back of the blank, parallel to the grooves.
 
 


 

Hello Dave,
 
I took my time this morning to read through your build log. Really nice and clean model.

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

Hi everyone,
 
Hope you all are doing well in these interesting times (if we can call it like that).
Not much to update other than trough luck i was able to stock up my black hornbeam. I sent order in just right before the war and it had been stuck there, but trough my Ukrainian friends it finally arrived. So i should have more than enough for some time :).
 
Addition to sheets and sheets you can also order bigger sizes and rough cut. Prices according to sizes and spices.
 
For knife etc makers maybe this would be interesting:
Colored hornbeam 40x40x400 (mm) green, yellow, brown, pink/red, orange blanks 15 eur a piece or 40x40x800 30 eur/pc rough cut.
 
Sad update is that prices of products have to be adjusted (in reality raised) as everything is getting more and more expensive. Latest Clients have already seen that.
Prices on web arent all correct so best way to still order is to send me a e-mail with requested sizes are spices. Website prices will be updated in new future to give indication.
 
Quoting fellow modeller: "happy modelling".
 
Some photos of recent orders.
 
Br
Vahur
Hobbymill.EU
 

Please let me know if you have the new shipping prices to Europe.

Please let me know if you have the new shipping prices to Europe.

HI ALL
 
PROGRESS CONTINUES TO BE MADE....SLOWLY.
INTERNAL TIMBERWORK FINISHED OFF WITH ADDITION OF CRUTCH AND BREASTHOOK.
 
A TENTATIVE COAT OF DANISH OIL HAS BEEN APPLIED.......MAKES THOSE TREENAILS STAND OUT.
 
ALL BOLT HEADS HAVE BEEN BLACKENED WITH LIVER OF SULPHUR.
 
LOWER COUNTER PLANKED AND TREENAILED PRIOR TO FITTING THE WALES.
 
LOWER DECK HAS BEEN STARTED BOXWOOD FRAMES AND HOLLY PLANKING.......DECIDED TO EAT INTO MY PRECIOUS SUPPLY OF ENGLISH HOLLY FOR THIS MODEL.
 
ONCE THE LOWER DECK IS FINISHED AND TRIAL FITTED IT WILL GO ON ONE SIDE UNTIL THE WALES AND SOME OF THE EXTERNAL PLANKING IS DONE.
 
THATS ALL FOR NOW FOLKS
 
CHEERS......MICK

So I am merrily moving along at a snails pace cutting thin strips with my new Byrnes table saw and installing chocks between frames when Flyer posts he noticed an issue with his bobstays interfering with his figurehead in his Bellerophon kit build.  The arm broke off of his and he glued it back but possibly not in the same position.  Even though his figurehead is different than mine I immediately thought I might have a similar problem and I'd best check.
 
So I installed my bowsprit and figurehead and dummied up a couple of bobstays and there it was, the lines were bent inwards at Pegasus' hooves and lower fore legs.
 
When I get the nerve to try and clean up the horse's head I'll thin down the hooves and legs.  I can possibly thin down the stem a little to help create minimal clearance.
 
 

During my downtime I did some research into the ship's wheel.  Seems it was very much like the Victory's.  A double wheel with a tall fore pedestal and a short aft pedestal.
 

HMS Elephant plans (above)  and HMS Victory wheel (below)

 
So I drew it up to fit between my decks and forward of my mizzen mast.
 

Assembly between decks (above) and details (below)

Then I drew up some details so when I need a change I can chose to work on my fore or mizzen lower mast and trees, painting/asembling my 74 guns, or the ship's wheel.  It is nice to have options.

I've got the outboard side of the frames 90% done.  Just need to finish them with a few finer grades of sand paper.
I will start on the inboard side Wednesday.
 

The last two years I needed my workshop as homeoffice. I started building Cheerful at the dining table, but this was also not a good idea. Now I am back in my office which gives me the possibility to use my workshop as shipyard again.
 
To practice I build a test frame from an old piece of wood.
Instead of a paper base, I milled a template from plywood, which already takes into account the different thicknesses of the futtocks.

 
On this template, the futtocks were first glued together and then the chocks were added.

 
Finally a photo of the finished test-frame.

 
Now I can start with the serial production.

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

This week I got  a "little" parcel with really nice milled boxwood from hobymill.eu. Vahur put also some extra sheets and wood samples to my order.
The timber has real nice color and was excellent packed. Also the contact and information of Vahur was great.
 
Hobbymill gets from me ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ of five possible. Highly recommended

Hi Everyone -
 
I have some exciting news: this week I acquired SeaWatch Books from @BobF! I've been a long-time customer of SeaWatch and was sorry to hear that Bob was retiring. I reached out and after a long discussion decided that I'd step in and acquire the company and inventory. I want to thank Bob and Cathy both for allowing me to carry the mantle and build on what they have started. I promise to continue the tradition of and commitment to quality books that are beautiful, informative, and important to the ship modeling community.
 
The first thing I will be doing is moving the store to a true e-commerce platform. This will make for a much better shopping experience and improve on the fulfillment and ordering issues that I know some have experienced in the past. I am currently in the process of finalizing the new store and will be integrating with the fulfillment center in the days ahead. Hopefully, we'll be up and running in the next week or two. In the meantime, please feel free to register at www.seawatchbooks.com to receive a 20% off coupon for when we launch.
 
A little bit about me:
 
Besides being Sonofasonofasailor here on MSW, my name in the real world is Mike Ellison. I have been building models since my youth starting with plastic kits (my first ship model was USS Enterprise, which I built at the age of 14). But, as is often the case with modeling, life intervened and college, professional, and family obligations took center stage for many years. I returned to modeling about 10 years ago and am a member of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey.
 
I graduated from Syracuse University in upstate New York in 1994 with degrees in Finance and Marketing. It was here where I met my wife Caroline and we got married a few years after graduating. After starting a career on Wall St., I had an opportunity to join my father in launching and building a marketing research firm, which has grown to nearly 100 people in New York City. My father is largely retired from the business and I continue to build and grow that company.
 
My wife and I reside in New Jersey and are soon to be empty-nesters. My oldest son is a sophomore at Skidmore College and my daughter will be going to Connecticut College in the fall. 
 
I am truly looking forward to building SeaWatch Books and continue to serve the ship modeling community. If you have any questions or ideas on how we can improve on our service, please email us at support@seawatchbooks.com.
 
Thanks,
Mike
 
 

Really nice progress