AnobiumPunctatum

Thank you Chuck and Mike I’m happy with how she turned out but I also learned a lot this first go around and will do a few things Differently the next time. Definitely going to take the next step and line off the hull next time.
 
Got her flipped over today and built a stand using the ply from the bulkheads. Did some clean up on the top sides, fitted the figure head and added some poly to the top sides. Wrapping up the loose ends from chapters one and two and looking forward to starting chapter three very much.
JJ
 

Thanks Chuck and Rusty.
 
i started a mad sanding storm today and managed to get one coat of WOP on her below the wales, I’ll let it dry overnight and sand again the spots I missed then go over with 400 grit before flipping her over and finishing the top sides, stem and stern post.

Merry Christmas to my fellow Winchelsea builders and everyone on MSW!
 
been toying around with interior lighting and I think I found something I like. These LEDs are literally half a mm if that and have a nice warm glow to them similar to candlelight. What do you think?
 

Not going to lie Ron, I bought the CAF scraper as well as the AL set. Between the four different scrappers I managed to cover all the profiles required for Winnie, some required some minor modifications. Even then I had a lot of wasted pieces until I figured it out and started making moulding that looked acceptable. I Do recommend them all though. Tom at CAF sent the scrapper out very quick and it actually didn’t take long to get here as I thought it would.
JJ 

My paint came a day early! I was too excited so I painted the wales with many thin coats today.
 

 
Even my son helped!

 
He was very proud of himself for helping to paint . He did a great job if I do say so myself!
 
After cleaning it up some, I am really happy with the result!  I don't care as much about the top because the black strake will cover the little spill over.  I need to make the black strake strips so that will be done this week.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
I do need to clean up a few places here and there, but its mostly completed!
 
Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes!
 
Jeff
 
 

Now I have all the frames cut out and fitted to shape. What remains is to thin them down to about 2 mm thickness. I do that last now when I know that the shape is good in all other dimensions.
 

In the end I cut the two first and two last frames from solid pieces. I determined the shape using the same method as for the other frames, that is using card and copying the angles of the planks to the frames. It worked OK, but since I could only fit the cards to one side at a time, I got the shape of two frame halves. The angle between the halves was a bit hard to get right. For one of the frames I ended up splitting it and gluing it back with the correct angel.
 

Finally got around to mounting the deadeyes to those hull structures that I have no name for. 
 
I have to admit that I've been dragging my feet on this step, as "rigging" has kind of fallen out of favor with me. Not good for a modeler of sailing ship! Probably more of a phase. I tend to get into whatever type of work I happen to be doing and don't take well to shifting gears these days. And, I guess I particularly like hull construction, deck planking, and probably research most of all.
 
But, it was time to get back to the Cog after a general break from most everything fun these past couple months.
 
 
So, deadeyes now in place...
 

 
 
As I was working with these, I realized there were notches at the top of these structures (see arrow in the photo below)... was something missing? I looked at the instructions, which didn't show me to add stringers here, like the others below, but in a latter photo in the instructions, the pieces magically appeared!
 

 
I managed to add those pieces, and of course the little deck and the supports you see above.
 
Then, looking forward, I noticed how these assemblies were fit into place, and it suddenly became apparently, that I had no idea if these little decks would fit into place correctly. Looking closely at the instruction photos, it looked like I might have them wrong. I ended cutting these little decks off, deciding it was much smarter to mount them AFTER the assemblies were fixed in place.
 

 
NOW, it's safe to add those decks so that they fit right up against that deck cabin bulkhead.
 

 

 
Well, anyway, it's progress!
 
 

@scrubbyj427
If you like this appearance you can reach this with our group build model. Winnie in her 1782 appearance should looking really similiar to Minerva.
So it's not necessary to dream from another model. Have fun with the group build.

Thanks guys.....Trying to find some time today to do those cheeks....
 
But today is the first day after opening the store.  Its been getting nutty.  But maybe  later tonight if I am not too tired.    I forgot how crazy these reopening's get.

On the bulwarks you will see several cleats and a staghorn....
 
The cleats are self explanatory.   Laser cut cleats were cleaned of laser char and painted.   Then glued onto the bulwarks.  You can peg them with some 24 gauge wire for extra security.
 
There is one other feature on the bulwarks.  I believe its called a staghorn or basically its a fancier cleat with some sheaves.   Someone can correct me on the terminology as I seem to have a mind block as I am writing this.
 
These are also laser cut for you from boxwood.  They are quite small but add a nice detail seldom seen on most kits.  But they are used in a bunch of places.  But one is needed on the bulwarks on each side.

Basically the first thing you do is add the backing piece which will enclose the sheaves.  Those are laser etched as you can see above.  The the two "horns" (for lack of a better word) need to be shaped.   These are the ends which need to be shaped like a typical timberhead.  I used a #11 blade to do this.  A quick stop cut was used across the end to match the profile laser cut.  Then I sliced towards the stop cut on an angle to give the end some dimension on the front side.  Otherwise it would be flat ...you can see the front of the finished piece above.   Then I lightly chamfered the edge...again like you would do with a timberhead.
 
These were painted and glued on the bulwarks.  Just check the plans for their locations.   Its hard to see but below you can see one side of the bulwarks with some cleats and this "staghorn".
 

 
Now I should start making all of those eyebolts for the gun tackles.  Ugh!  But I think I am going to skip ahead and start making the cheeks on the starboard side.
 
If you recall I finished these on the port side already.   I dont feel like making eyebolts and split rings today.
 
Here is a shot of the cheeks and hair brackets on the port side.   Let me detail how they are made next.  Its quite a long process even with most parts laser cut for you.
 
 

You start with the hair brackets....
 
These are the pieces on the stem, while those on the hull above and below the hawse holes are the cheeks.
 
The hair brackets are laser cut for you.  The first thing you do is lightly sand the laser char on the face of the sheet before you remove any of the parts.  You can see in the photo that I tried something new.  Cheeks and headrails always look pretty crappy on kits so here goes nothing.  Hopefully a better result and not too difficult to build.
 
They are laser etched with a channel down the center of them.  Its not very deep but then it doesnt have to be.  In this channel will be a precision laser cut insert.   The hair brackets are 1/16" thick while the inserts are 1/32" thick.  Once the inserts are shaped and positioned, they will stand proud of the hair brackets.   To pull this off properly,   you must first sand all the laser char from the edges or sides of each hair bracket.  Then round off the outside edge.  Just knock off the hard edge as it doesnt need to be over-sanded.  Dont worry about touching the laser etched channel.  
 
Then carefully with a light touch sand the char from the edges of the inserts.  These are thin and fragile.  Then round off the edges of these along their entire length if that makes sense.  In the photo below you can see an extra set of pieces not touched....note the flat inserts etc.  But below that you can see the pieces all finished and being dry fit into the etched channels.  

To finish these up after you glue in the inserts,  add the tiny laser cut button to the scrolls.   These are 1/32" thick which are too thick.  So once glued into position you must sand them thinner until the look right.   They should be pretty thin.  Lastly, I applied some WOP and then glued the friezes on.   These are printed on regular paper like the other friezes.   I used a glue stick.   You can slide them around before they set.   Then take the point of a toothpick and lightly burnish or "tuck" the edges of the frieze along the edges so its nice and neat. 
 
Thats it for the hair brackets.   Tomorrow I will work on the cheeks and finish off all the other parts.   This is also the method or design concept I will use to make all the headrails.  You n see one test headrail in the same photo.  I have made about 10 test examples so far and it looking good if I can just choose the one I like best.   Each headrail is made up of between 5 or even ten pieces depending on which one I choose.  I do like this one for its simplicity.   But we wont need these until a lot later.   So now its onto the cheeks.
 

All of the elements come together well to create a pretty convincing execution.  Keep in mind this is what we are trying to replicate without having to carve these from scratch.
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Happy new year everyone! 
Posting sime pics with showing  my way in case it could help somone . As work is progressing at full speed in shipyard. I havent come into much tricky part so far to ask about  with such great tutorial plan  and i can always  observe others way of working. but this is gonna change soon as i run into part 2. I am close to wrapping part one though. Just painting and few installments on gallery. Gallery - i first secured 2 side pieces( st- c ) and used clamps and straight timber to set guide for others. Than i glued up some paper to make some pieces snugged fit. That worked for me quite well.  
I must say i really enjoy working without keel installed at this point as i can move skeleton to my liking and work even in by bed :D. Well I decided continue this way up to finish first part and last will be attaching keel. I run into one problem Chuck wont be entirely happy about. There is always curvature  stem gap so i had to fair from stem - i did probably little too much there which cut off almost half from that beautiful joints. I can live with that as i prefer stem to be stuck with all its round  surface firmly. But doung it it also ensures rabbet line to be uniformly wide which is important. As much as i feared fairing glued extentions, it want finally that bad. I worked with knife to bring it as low as possible before i sanded. With baswood easy. I must say that Cedar that came in is very unique wood i never experienced such. Very stiff. I mean very. I was happy to make extentions with basswood i would struggle cutting and smoothing that alaskan cedar- another thing. I would probably invest as time goes in some sort of right angle electic sander. It consumes most of time to try to maintain straignt line  it manually and its pain wirh end grains and small oarts. Not bad much with bigger parts. . Well i guess it wont be needed thst much from now on :D. I have another conundrum to solve. I realised i missed to gkue bf part 1 . So gap between main bollards is narrower for that measures. I will have to rasp off from there than. Fingers crossed. Now to finish sternpost and to paint. Boklards than and keel at the end. Am i correct with windows position? . Thank you all a lot for view etc..and take care.oh look what saw i made out of clamping scissors.   Vlad.  
 
 
 

The following photo shows a really wonderful modern model of HMS Minerva, which shows the beauty of an fully rigged frigate.
It's my model and motivation for the build of HMS Winchelsea.

Picture from Country-Life, April 2011
 
HMS Winchelsea had a really long career in the Royal Navy and it's possible that the ship is looking similiar to the model of Minerva, after the great repair of 1780-1782. I don't know  if I will copper my model of if I will show an older condition of the ship.
 
@Chuck
You show in your log photos of the origininal model of HMS Winchelsea. I couldn't find a gallery with all photos. Is it possible to make a gallery? This makes it much easier to find this very informative pictures.

Hartelijk welkom in de Winchelsea werf. Ik wens je heel veel plezier met dit mooie project.
Welcome to the Winchelsea shipyard. I wish you a lot of fun with this beautyful project.
 
 

Port lids are all done.....they take longer than you think. 😊
 
So now the two ladders for the gundeck.  The thing about ladders on commercial kits is they are usually so out of scale.  You must consider that the ladders or steps were made much as they are today.  They are made from 2" thick stock.  So that translates to just 1/32" thick at this scale.  Most kits provide parts double the thickness so its like they used a 4 x 4 to make the stairs which looks pretty horrible.  I was also never happy with their shape which was usually very generic and not at all like they are shown on good contemporary examples and plans.
 
So I worked up a simple design but they can be finicky to build.   So this is how I managed these.
 
First I sanded both sides of the sheet to remove any char before the parts were removed from the sheet.  The photo shows the prototype build and now I will make another to show you how its done.  The edges were sanded free of char.....these are made from boxwood.   I have laser etched mortices to accept the stairs.  So first thing you should check is the fit of the sides of the steps in the mortices.  If they are too thick....simply knock off the corner or bevel the edge of the steps ever so slightly.  Not too much and dont touch the little "wings" protruding from the front of each step.   I also did not remove any char from the side edges of the steps as I want them all the same length exactly.   This is important.   I started by adding the top and bottom step to one side of the ladder.  I got a nice fit into the mortice after just lightly beveling the edge of the steps.

Then I added the other side of the ladder and made sure the glue was dry before handling it further.....otherwise it could fall apart easy.  Remember these are just 1/32" thick.
 

Finally I beveled the side edges of ever remaining step and slid them in position after applying a small drop of glue to each edge.   They slid right into place without much trouble.  Once you do one or two it gets easier......straight in and back.

The top step is a bit wide which you will soon discover so at this stage I used a sanding stick to sand it flush on the back side of the step.  Then to finish it off I sanded the sides of the ladder to make those little "wings" on each step flush with the sides of the ladder.   I hope that makes sense as I left them a bit longer so they would need to be finish-sanded.
 
Thats it.....
 
But the larger hatch mid-ship has a double ladder.  Its built  basically the same way.   The top and bottom step first.    But then I slipped the center riser in position as well.

Then its just a matter of slipping the remaining steps into position.   With each step added, the entire assembly gets stronger.   Finish sand the sides and that top step and its all done.  You can see how the front of each step has just a slight curve to it......not too much.  When finished these are light and elegant.   It is important to have them look this way.

Apply some WOP and then glue them into position in each companionway.   See  below.


Next up its time to add some cleats and bolts to the bulwarks.  Yippie.  Any questions???
 

No solder-easy-brass working gun port hinges.....
 
So I like to get the port lids done early before I put the cannons in.  The main reason is that I build the lids within their respective openings.  This would be impossible after the cannon are in place.  This is something you guys can do at anytime and you dont have to wait for chapter 5.  You guys probably have all the materials to get these lids done.
 
So first the lids...
 
I think someone may have asked this question a while ago.  But you know how you see a port lid on a contemporary model and it isnt just a flat square but actually is conformed to the shape of the hull.  A port lid can be curved which is something you rarely see on a kit model.  Fortunately for us the lids arent that extremely shaped.  But the one at the bow will need to have each layer or strake of the lid pre-bent just like the hull planking.
 
To explain....you must keep the run of the hull planking in each port lid.  Thus it is best to use 1/4" x 3/64" strips to build the lid up.  In the photo below you can see how I cut the first two strakes and trimmed them so they fit tight in the port opening.  Then I glue them together edgewise right in the port opening.  I do simulate the seam between each segment with a pencil just like we did when planking.  The last piece for this lid is sitting on top of the sheer rail.

With the lid glued up I remove it and sand the outside and inside surface smooth.  Dont do this while its in position because you will screw up the finish on the hull planking.  It will be hard to get the finish to match in the area you recently sanded.  Then there is the matter of the second inboard layer or the lid lining.   This is done with strips too....or you could just cut one piece that fits.  In the case of the lining it is 1/32" thick.  Its cut to shape so a rabbet is left on the bottom and the sides.   To finish it up paint the inboard side red along with the edges of the port lid.
 

Then put it back in position on the model....make sure it still fits nice.  Apply a finish of wipe on poly to the outboard side.  In some cases the frieze will need to be added as well.  Just like hanging wallpaper, you must match the pattern.

Making the port lid hinges...
 
There are many advantages to making brass hinges from scratch.  Mostly because the photoetch ones available are either shaped funny or two wide.  They just never look right to my eye.  So here is how I make them.  You will need a brass strip 1/16" wide and 1/64" thick.  K&S used to sell these.   These wont be supplied by me so this is something you have to get.  You can cut strips from a brass sheet if needed as well.  Looking at the photo from top to bottom....some finished hinges on top

Then step one....on the top of the lineup...
 
The first thing I do is drill a hole through the end of the brass strip.  Use a #74 drill bit.   Then I round off the end around that hole which will become the bottom of the hinge.
 
Step 2...Using a flat file, I file a tapered angle into the strap just above the drilled hole.   You dont have to file too deep.  Just enough to make a gradual taper in the hinge.  Then I round off the end so it looks like a small circle on the bottom of the hinge around the hole.  This step is also optional.  You can go with a straight hinge that just has the bottom rounded.  Its up to you.  But I think these look nicer.
 
Step 3...Measure the length of the hinge by using the plans.   Mark this on the brass strip.  Now its time to file a little tail into the top end of the hinge.  This is easy enough.  Using a flat needle file just file half of the width of the brass strip away.  This resulting tail should be about 5/32" long.
 
Step 4...Use a needle nose to roll up the tail to make a loop.  Just like you do when you are making an eye bolt.  Make the resulting hole in this pretty small so a 24 gauge wire can snugly fit into it....more on that later.  But here is the real trick to this.  Before you bend that tail into a loop, file the tail down even thinner.  Just the tail.  This makes it easier to get a nice small loop on the top of the hinge.  It also keeps the finished hinge from looking to too bulky and chunky.  Hope that makes sense.  Thats it......repeat to make 20 hinges.   But remember to make left and right pairs.   Each lid gets a left and a right as you will see in the photos.  It just means make the loop in the tail in the other direction on the top of the hinge.  Blacken all of the hinges when you are done.

Now in the photo above...with the port lid in position, You can glue the hinges to the lid.   Try and keep them even.  Try and keep them the same height etc.
 
Then remove the lid as shown below.  This is where you will drill a hole into the lid through the hole you made in each hinge.  I had made the very tiny eyebolts with 28 gauge black wire.  On these I added split rings that I made from 24 gauge black wire.  I made the split rings by wrapping the wire around the shank of a #50 drill bit.  Then I sawed them down the shank to part off nice split rings all to a very uniform size.   These split rings were carefully inserted into the tiny eyebolts I made and were ready to glue into the holes in the bottom ends of the hinges.  I was careful not to drill through the lid or push the tail of the eyebolts through the lids.  I didnt want them breaking through to the inboard side.
 
Lastly....create some tiny "L" shapes from 24 gauge wire which will be used to secure the lids in position.   But before you place them into the hinge straps.....place the lid back in the port opening so you can drill the holes where those little "L's" will go.   Drill the holes close to the hinge straps.  Note the left and right hinge straps on the lid.   This is done so the little "L's" are both on the inside.  Then you lid will never fall off after you glue it on the hull.

Here is a photo of the lids done on the starboard side.   I will keep them closed until I am ready to add the cannon to avoid damaging them.  Now to repeat this on the other side.  Any questions....I dont think I forgot anything.  That was a lot to write in one post!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!
 
Hey all! It sure has been a while!  I finally was able to find time for the build and have completed adding the wales (minus the black strake) to the model!
 

 
I tried to make the wales even on both sides.  I am pretty happy with the result.  To make the wales, I copied where I placed the first layer of planks.
 
The sides fitted pretty well, but the trickiest part for me, was the bending at the stern.  I did the best I could.   I am happy with the result. Is it perfect? Nope! Haha! But it seems, I always learn from doing each step of this model.
 
Here are some other pics:

 

 

 
I did my best to thin the wales down at the stem to simulate the wales fitting into the rabbet.
 
I am now waiting on some black paint to start painting the wales.  I want to start now,  but the paint won't arrive until Monday.  I can't wait to see what it looks like painted!
 
I will be painting the wales this coming week,  so my next update shouldn't be far off.
 
Thanks everyone!
 
Jeff

Good morning Chuck,
 
I found in W.E.May "The boats of the Men of War"  that there were two different options for a fith rate with 32 guns:
 
1761: 3 boats - 23ft longboat, 30ft pinnace and a 24ft yawl
1781: 5 boats - 23ft/ 24 ft launch, 30ft pinnace, 2x 18ft cutters
 
I think it should be nice to show all boats with the ship.

The following photo shows a really wonderful modern model of HMS Minerva, which shows the beauty of an fully rigged frigate.
It's my model and motivation for the build of HMS Winchelsea.

Picture from Country-Life, April 2011
 
HMS Winchelsea had a really long career in the Royal Navy and it's possible that the ship is looking similiar to the model of Minerva, after the great repair of 1780-1782. I don't know  if I will copper my model of if I will show an older condition of the ship.
 
@Chuck
You show in your log photos of the origininal model of HMS Winchelsea. I couldn't find a gallery with all photos. Is it possible to make a gallery? This makes it much easier to find this very informative pictures.

Thanks very much for your interest on my buildlog.
Greg, I will later continue with my other projects, especially Fly and Triton.

The following photo shows a really wonderful modern model of HMS Minerva, which shows the beauty of an fully rigged frigate.
It's my model and motivation for the build of HMS Winchelsea.

Picture from Country-Life, April 2011
 
HMS Winchelsea had a really long career in the Royal Navy and it's possible that the ship is looking similiar to the model of Minerva, after the great repair of 1780-1782. I don't know  if I will copper my model of if I will show an older condition of the ship.
 
@Chuck
You show in your log photos of the origininal model of HMS Winchelsea. I couldn't find a gallery with all photos. Is it possible to make a gallery? This makes it much easier to find this very informative pictures.

Whow, I didn't realize how the last year flew by.
 
I actually wanted to start with my model much earlier, but due to the Corona crisis and a project change, I gave up my second home in Amsterdam and moved back home. I now have to use my shipyard as my home office, so scratch building isn't really a good option. At Christmas I found the offer of ir3 at MSW and considered using the small lasercut kits from Chuck to pursue my hobby. In the meantime, the decision has been made and I am waiting for a package with the components. After Chuck reopens his store I need to buy some yellow ceddar and then I will start my build.
 
I dream to fully rig WInchelsea later.  Frigates are in my opinion some of the most beautyful shipmodels with a rig.

Hi all,
 
first of all I like to thank Chuck and all the other guys in the background which make the group build possible.
I will participate and build this nice 5ft rate frigate, because the reconstruction of my HMS Triton will need much more time and I have lerned in the last years that it don't make sense to build her or any other ship as POF model before I am retired. So I think it is a good possibility to take the challenge of building HMS Winchelsea and improve my skills. In the moment I like to build her fully rigged and colored as the original model. As wood I will use pear, boxwood and other European woods.
 
For job reasons I live partially in the Netherlands, but I will build her at home in Germany. So I am not the fastest builder of the group.

The following photo shows a really wonderful modern model of HMS Minerva, which shows the beauty of an fully rigged frigate.
It's my model and motivation for the build of HMS Winchelsea.

Picture from Country-Life, April 2011
 
HMS Winchelsea had a really long career in the Royal Navy and it's possible that the ship is looking similiar to the model of Minerva, after the great repair of 1780-1782. I don't know  if I will copper my model of if I will show an older condition of the ship.
 
@Chuck
You show in your log photos of the origininal model of HMS Winchelsea. I couldn't find a gallery with all photos. Is it possible to make a gallery? This makes it much easier to find this very informative pictures.

It's 30 minutes before the New Year starts and I'm so tired I doubt I'll see it in awake.  Before drifting off to dreamland I want to wish all my fellow model builders only the best for 2021.  Lord knows this last year is one to forget.  Work hard on your model, be happy, and stay safe.  Don't let your guard down with the Covid-19 virus.  Yes, a vaccine is coming, and we can see the end of the tunnel.   Let's not have a pile-up before we exit it.