AnobiumPunctatum

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

No, I think that you haven't put enough material at the top away. Sorry, my English is ot so good. Perhaps the picture better illustrates what I am trying to describe.

 

Thank You Christian and Glenn for you interest and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
 
Christian, I will leave the door of the Companionway open and I will mostly add micro lights inside the 2 rooms. The door connecting the 2 rooms will also be left open so that a maximum of light can pass through.
I know that only a small part of the 2 rooms will be seen but it is above all the pleasure of adding personal details and the possibility to gain additional experience that motivates me 😉.
 
 Thank you Glenn for your advice. I note that the positioning of the gun ports are very important. I will have to read the instruction manual and build logs again in due time.

Something went wrong when uploading, I am adding some pics. My girl is dressed up now  so next work will go around putting some "makeup" on so she could go out properly thank you for watching etc. Execution is not flawless, especially at stern counter line...:( i guess it may take another talent or years of experiences I dont have. nevertheless. Here she is. ready to put some coat on...not sure if leaving  her blonde though...but basswood doesnt take stain well so i have to better be careful ...
 
 
 
 
 
 








 

I will follow yur log with great interest. I am waiting on some replacement parts and the Cheerful timber set from Chuck to start with this beautyful little model. I like your idea to show the room, but if you don't make a cut out of the deck I think that you will not see much. The room is really dark.
 

Sorry, to hear Tom. I hope you will feel better shortly. Perhaps is the Augsburger method an alternativ, if you want a more stable fundament. I think it's a shame that you have to put your project back to square one. But I think it's a good decision, not to stop modelling.

Teaser before showing details
  raise the imginary glass for me :)) and  cheers to everyone! 
LAST ONE ! 
Tour de force is nearing end, i cant imagine how near i am to 3rd part i  most excited for. Now unexcited  and demanding work is over. Hooray.. Well i sort of liked planing from keel up. Almost no hot bending...thank you for watching. You all are making me doing my best. 
 
 
 

Every once in a while you get a none-too-subtle reminder you are human, and a fragile one at that.  Last night, while taking two trash can full of poplar scrap from the basement out to the garage, I did something to my lower back.  Instantly I knew I really hurt myself as the pain was intense and that I had difficulty walking, let alone walking erect.  Four ibuprofen barely cut the pain.  I went to bed in the fetal position.  When I woke this morning the pain was less, but not by much.  It was perfectly clear to me that I had really hurt myself and that this wasn't going away in a day or two.  What I also realized was that the solid hull Winchelsea I had started, which weighs a ton, was not a project I was ever going to be able to bring to fruition easily, if at all.   Maybe in my youth a project of that size and weight would have been doable, but not as a 70-year-old with a weak back.  It's asking too much.  That leaves me to make some choices.  Do I walk away from ship model building for good (it's NOT going to happen), choose a much smaller vessel to build with a solid hull (it's unlikely to happen), or build a POB Winchelsea?   While POB is not my favorite build method I'm not totally averse to it.  Lord knows I've built enough POB models in my life.  Truth be said, Chuck has put together a wonderful POB project of a beautiful ship, certainly better than any POB kit I've ever built.  Who knows, maybe I'll like it.  One other thing has been made clear to me is that, no matter what I try, I can't keep the fine wood dust from going all over the house.  Yes, the filter helps, but it's not a solution.  I was still seeing a serious saw dust problem when I was just starting to form the hull with heavy sanding.  You don't have to be a rocket scientist to see where this is going.... dust in every nook and cranny in my condo.  Before I can do anything I need to get my back right.

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.
 

 

I will follow yur log with great interest. I am waiting on some replacement parts and the Cheerful timber set from Chuck to start with this beautyful little model. I like your idea to show the room, but if you don't make a cut out of the deck I think that you will not see much. The room is really dark.
 

No. The frames are 3mm birch plywood with 5 layers and the filling is poplar plywood.

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.
 

 

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.
 

 

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
I am currently studying the configuration of the 2 rooms that I will reproduce (based on the copy of the NMM plan).
 


I wonder: on this plan, only 2 doors are represented. One that connects the Commander's Cabin and the Bread Room, the second one that connects the two rooms that I am going to reproduce.
Now it appears that 6 rooms are located laterally: 4 Bed Places and 2 extensions for the Captain. So we should represent on each side 3 doors? Is it also necessary to provide a door to connect the central spacing of the ship?
I would like to have your opinion on this subject...
Thank you in advance

You could also use the actual interior for Cheerful.....rather than use one from the much older Alert.
 


 
 

Thank you to the people who follow this build.

Installation of bulkheads. And here all the difference in quality and precision of the kits produced by Syren appears.
When I remember it took me over a week of work to prepare and test the bulkheads setup on my Armed Virginia Sloop.
With the Cheerful, in ten minutes, the bulkheads blank test was done and I was able to start gluing them.
 

 
I had fun with my children's legos again. 😄 They won't hold it against me. They are now adults and have other interests.
 

 
Finally, I prepared a working basis to deposit my model.
 

 
I also planned a second base in anticipation of the fairing. I will probably raise it to make this task easier.
 

 
But before this phase, I'm going to reinforce the bulkheads and make a first modification to the model. I plan to add the detail of the captain's cabin which will be visible through the skylight.
 

Thank you Glenn and Michael for your support and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
I glued the keel on the false keel.

 
I work on a glass plate in order to have a flat surface.
 

 

 
Finally I simulated the treenails using Minwax wood putty.
 

 
Next step : the bulkheads

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.
 

 

Your methodical and meticulous nature are really shining, Tom.
 
In my opinion, the only way to ensure that a hand-made thing is truly good, and able to hold-up to intense scrutiny, is to invest whatever time is necessary in the process.  Your efforts, here, are exemplary.

Really wonderful.

In English:
James Lees: The masting and rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860
David Antscherl: Rigging a sixth rate sloop of 1767-1870, which is very detailed. I haven't checked if it is useful for rigging a third rate
 
In German:
Klaus Schrage Rundhölzer Tauwerk und Segel
I recommend the this book, because it contains a lot of useful detail drawings.
 
The last two are my favorites for rigging English ships