AnobiumPunctatum

The friezes and Fancy moldings on both sides together with the Qgallery-roofs are now finished. 
After printing the friezes, I sprayed the paper 2-3 times with varnish, then cut it out and glued it to the model.
Here are some Pictures.


Now I look forward to the stern with all the wonderful carvings from Jack. That will be the absolute higlight of my so far modelbuilding.
Matthias

This weekend I did some planking. 
I sometimes doubt, whether I took the right strips. I used 7/32" x 3/64". I cut 23 of them. That will be enough for 4 planks in each side. But the 5th on top of them should be the same one or not? Taking 2,5 planks for one length, I used already 20 strips. The remaining 3 strips will not be enough for a 5th. row. With wich plank are the wales doubled up later on?

Thank you. So that is chapter one finished. Chuck, perfekt timing!! You just posted chapter two. 

Thank you all for the 👍!!! And the encouragement.
In the meantime I glued some of the sills in position

Now Christian were/are you an altar boy or entomologist to pick such a name?
Joe

Alright!!  Now I understand how Chuck is doing this.  He's a tiny elf with power tools.

I will take a seat and follow your log with great interest.
 

Just a quick update to mark the end of Chapter 3.  
I admit I was not looking forward to doing the pillars and the tops & bottoms to them, along with the roof rails, but everything turned out OK -- at least for me.
 

 

 

 
Now it is time to clean up the shop to get ready for Chapter 4.

Chris, is it possible that you offer the Armstrongs and also the Blombfields in scale 1/48?

Thanks, Alan, you make me feel a little better!
 
I have worked periodically through the holiday, making more standards for the gundeck. Only 8 out of 22 to go.
 

 
As I approach the end of this,  I am thinking ahead to another challenge, explained in Rob Napier's Legacy of a Ship Model book as the "Chinese Puzzle Effect". You have to do A before B, but A cannot be done until B is completed.
 
I am getting to the point where the guns have to be installed, before I can eventually proceed to the upper decks. But the cannon barrels sticking out are clearly going to get in the way of further outboard work, including planking to the top and painting the wales and friezes. The outer work needs to be done first. Also, cutting all of the mortises in the clamps for the upper decks will make a mess of dust falling into the cannon on the gundeck. So these need to be cut before installing the cannon.
 
Indeed, just about everything following is in danger of knocking about or dislodging altogether any cannon sticking out of a gunport. I am beginning to wonder if I should install the carriages now, and only towards the end of the project slide the gun barrels in through the ports and then fasten them down. I can't imagine how I bolt the carriage capsquares down onto the barrel trunnions, when I no longer have access from the inside; working entirely through the gunport. And the breech ropes would have been installed along with the carriages (because the rope goes through a ring on the carriage) long before I try to slide a barrel through a gunport; how would I get that rope to fit nicely onto the barrel cascabels, working from outside and not from within?
 
By the way, I have decided not to plank the outboard edges of the gundeck as a platform for the guns. I really like seeing the lodging knees. So I will make a little 4" base under each gun, which will allow me to pin from underneath into the trucks of the carriage, and then pin the platform down to the beams. I am worried about these coming adrift over time, especially with the vulnerability of the barrels sticking out. So some major anchoring is needed.
 
Hmmmm......complex problems, these ship models!
 

 

 

 
 
 

Chris, is it possible that you offer the Armstrongs and also the Blombfields in scale 1/48?

If Chris can’t do them then you can try the Model Monkey web site, they do a range of 3D printed 1/48 (and most other scales) ships canon as well as a host of other nautical items.

With Sea Watch books no longer selling plans for the Swan class we have decided to provide them as a free download from our website
http://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Plans.html. Feel free to take use this set of plans if building a Swan class ship model in the future. Be aware, however, that the sheet with the sheer, half breadth and body plans need to be printed commercially due to their size. I have had no end of problems getting these plans printed to spec in the past even though there are scales printed on it. Therefore, we are now providing them as a free download with the caveat to check them very carefully after printing. The best advice I can give is to make sure the distance between perpendiculars is 96' 7" (scale) or 24.15" full size.
 
For those who have purchased Mylar plans in the past from us there should be no problems as they were checked and dimensionally stable.  But David and I feel that we can no longer charge for plans for which we have no control over the final product. With so many of our Swan  books having been sold over the years we didn't want to leave you without any options for producing plans so this is the best we could come up with. Thank you for all your support over the twenty years we have tried to provide the best product possible.
 
We are hopeful that we may be able to conduct a workshop late next year but, like everything else in this strange time, we shall have to wait and see.
 
Stay healthy and best wishes from David and I for a better 2021!

Thanks!!!
 

 

After finishing the ensemble I got the information that the step between stem and knee of the head doesn't exist. There is a drawing in Steel's Naval Architecture, that shows this detail. I am missing this book in my library and follwed the design which David descirbes in the Swan Class series by my first attempt.
 
Now I've reworked the comstruction:

Goed to hear a sign of life from you.

Goed to hear a sign of life from you.

Goed to hear a sign of life from you.

So a little sign of life. In the past two years a lot has happened that has nothing to do with shipbuilding unfortunately.  So in a nutshell this is what happened. A year and a half after I had moved to Sweden I got redundant and I have been searching for a new job since. Understandably not an easy task under the current economic circumstances. To cut costs I moved back to The Netherlands and moved in with my dad. All my stuff including the things from my workshop are in storage and I'm praying my Kingfisher will survive this mothball experience.
 
To keep my hands busy between the times I'm job hunting I am building some off topic plastic kits as they don't require so much tools. I found out that Tamiya's 1/12 motor cycle kits are the best painting challenge I can find and they kept me busy.
 
After I have found myself a new job and a new place to stay I can get my workshop up and hopefully have time to get some progress done on Kingfisher.
 
For now I wish you all a safe and healthy holiday season and a good 2021 for the hobby.
 
Remco

It has been a long time since my last posting. I started work on the gundeck spirketting and quickwork. Here are a few images in progress. Apologies for the dust I see in the photos; time for a little housecleaning!
 
I said earlier that in order to keep a clean line between the stained spirketting and the natural wood waterway, I would not be able to make individual strakes of this inner planking, level them down, and then stain in place. I did what Rob Napier discovered in his refurbishment of the 18th century model of the Princess Royal; he named this typical 18th century model builder technique SWOPEM- "Situation Where One Piece Equals many". I scored the hooked scarp joints onto a single strake for the spirketting. The butt joints between the pieces will be covered by the standards.
 
Laying out the sprirketting and joints:
 

 
The SWOPEM scored joints in the spirketting and quickwork:

 
The aft most piece of spirketting took such a severe twist and bend that I decided to carve it rather than steam it. My steaming always required clamping into final position, and there was no good way to clamp this:

 
and now to see the guns against the red:

 

 
 

Hi Lapinas, thanks for the knife suggestion. Not sure how it's different from an XActo or a scalpel, and I do use both, but mostly the scalpel for the paper/card models. I'll have to check this out. Thanks for the links!
 
Hi Popeye, glad you enjoyed looking over the posts. I'm getting to the stage where the model is looking more like a finished cog model and I'm starting to picture how it will look, mounted and on display. I was starting to question how the "wood" painting was looking, but the results are pretty neat now, as I'm starting to add more details. I'm actually feeling pretty happy with it.
 
Plus, I made some comments earlier about difficulties I was having with the height of the bulwarks on my model, but that seems to be turning out not to be an issue after all at this stage.
 
Here are a few more progress picture showing more stern castle details.
 

 

 
 
Below are some parts assembled, ready to be painted and installed. That long rail piece is pretty flimsy. I think I'm going to have to paint it, then hit with some thin CA in order to stiffen it up. The CA will soak into this fragile piece and effectively make it into a piece of sturdy plastic. It is then supposed to be glued onto the tenons on the ends of those knees. Those may need a shot of CA too, as tenons like these tend to fray and you try to fit them.
 

 
 
I added several parts to the stern castle structure and then I set the whole thing into place to see how it will all fit. Looks like there really won't be any fit problems at all now, regarding the bulwarks height. There may be a tiny gap at the fore end, but I think I can easily plug the gaps and paint them, so they won't even be noticeable. Bear in mind that in the photos, the stern castle is just sitting on the deck, not glued into place, so there are obvious gaps in the photos which won't be there when the sterncastle is glued down.
 

 

 
Onward!
 
Clare
 
 

Thanks Mark!
 
Well, speaking of running with wide-open, full-speed throttle, I was just up your way this weekend – TWICE. Ran wide-open on a drive from Pleasant Hill in the SF east bay, to Shelton, Washington on Saturday. Kind of an emergency as I had to go get my mom from my sister's house and bring her back down here, wide-open, full-speed throttle in the rain – 24 hours of driving in two days(!). But, at least it didn't snow (much). And, otherwise, I'd thought about you and about contacting you for a visit.
 
Well, before I went up there, I did make a little progress. Here's the top part of the stern castle. Lot of little bits I need to paint up and mount, yet, but it's something.
 

 

 
I have to leave for another couple days to take my mom down to a nursing facility in her home town, so I'll be out action for another day or two, unless I pack up a few things to take with me. But, I'm only be gone one night. Oh, wait, I had to cancel Internet service and last time cell reception for my iPhone (to make a personal hotspot) was so bad, I couldn't do anything on the Internet. So, maybe I will take something with me after all...
 
Clare
 
 

That's a nice idea. I am also building the cog "Wütender Hund". But if someone needs some picture of the Kamper Kogge, I made some pictures during a small trip in my holidays.