AnobiumPunctatum

Is it possible to have a look at your model, if I am in the hood.
I live for a longer period in Amsterdam.

The lower counter has been planked and sanded. I used a #2b pencil to darken the plank edges.  Decorative molding will cover the notch in the lowest plank.

Mike

Hello,
 
The Agamemnon has a new home......
Because I don't have much space in the house I was looking for a new home for her.
Someone from the building where we are living has seen the Aggy and I told him that I need a good place for her.
Just around the corner of our home there  is a nursing home.
They want to show the model in a meeting room on a book shelf.
I bring her and a lot of older people just came in to take a look and.....the oh's and ah's are flying around  ( In Dutch of course )
I'm very pleased that now others can admire her.
And if I want to see her.....no problem, just 3 minutes away......
Here are the pictures.
 
Sjors
 
      15/5000    

I could not miss the opportunity to visit Remco, since we are now basically neighbours  
Can confirm, the Kingfisher is feeling good in a new clean and super structured workshop. Hope it will survive the period of abnormal dry weather that we currently have...
'

 
I was amazed how crisp and clean all joints are! It is not a photoshop, it is better than I imagined based on the build log photos




 
The boats are neat:

 
And, of course, various parts are still there, each could be a model of its own:

Congratulations for this beautyful model. It was a great pleasure to follow your log the last five years.
 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together.

 

 

 
To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.

 

 

Thanks guys.
 
You guys know that I am Italian and from New Jersey.  But that is not why I covered my model in plastic.  That is only good for my living room sofa.  
 
But I mentioned after I showed how I lined off the hull, that I would show you guys how I translate those tick marks on the frames into actual spiled planks.  In the photo below, hopefully you can see the clear tape on my model.  This is just plain old packaging tape.  Many people use this technique and it works very well.  I however changed a few things over the years.  Rather than run a long strip of tape from bow to stern, I use short lengths that run from the keel to the sheer.  I over lap the different small pieces as I work my way across the hull.
 

 
The important thing to remember is NOT to flex the tape.  Just put each segment down and let it conform to the hull shape.  This is why I dont use a really long piece from bow to stern.  You would be most likely to bend and flex the long piece edgewise which would not give you very accurate plank shapes.  You must be able to remove the tape without flexing it edgewise and then place it on a flat surface like card stock or even the piece of wood you are cutting the plank from.  By using shorter pieces running the other way and overlapped, it makes it more difficult to flex the tape at all.  So when you remove it,  it stays the same shape as it was on the hull.
 
Anyway,  run a pencil along the edge of the last plank already on the hull.  Then trace over each tick mark on every frame.  You should also mark the plank butts and the ends of the strake.  Normally on a hull like the Winnie you would only need to do the bow area and the stern area to find the shape.  It is easy enough to plank mid ship and there is no need to run a piece of tape across the entire hull.  But in this case, I am creating laser cut planks for all of you guys.  So I must do the entire strake.  I could do it in sections but its just as easy to do the entire hull in one shot.  The hull isnt that long.
 
Carefully remove the tape without flexing or stretching it.  Then carefully lay it onto a flat surface.  In my case a piece of paper that I will scan.  Then connect your tick marks and clean it up a bit using french curves.  I just eye-balled it.  I connected the dashes to reveal the true shape of the spiled plank.  hopefully you can see it below.  Normally I use a fine point sharpie because it writes on the tape better but my kids find them and I never see them again.  So I m just using a pencil.
 

 
You can see how I connected the dots to reveal the shape of the plank.  If you placed this on card stock and cut it out with a sharp blade, then you can test it on your model.  If it fits.....and it should....then trace it onto some thin wood sheet to cut your planks.  I will be scanning it and making a vector drawing so I can laser cut them.  
 
Hope this makes sense....feel free to ask me any questions.   Its easier to show this in a tech session than write about it.
 
For this kit and project you guys wont have to do this....(you have the laser cut planks)  but I do recommend you give it a try on any other model.  You will fall in love with this method once you see how well the planks fit at the bow......snug against the frames or bulkheads.
 
Chuck

The colour of the wood is perfect for planking. Is it possible to show a picture with the cedar and a piece of pear wood? I am really interested to see how they looks together. I think on my Triton project.

The colour of the wood is perfect for planking. Is it possible to show a picture with the cedar and a piece of pear wood? I am really interested to see how they looks together. I think on my Triton project.

The colour of the wood is perfect for planking. Is it possible to show a picture with the cedar and a piece of pear wood? I am really interested to see how they looks together. I think on my Triton project.

Thank you gentleman.  Planking continues.
 
I have completed 4 of the 9 strakes.  Each strake has two sections. A forward and an aft plank.  For the first 3 strakes working up from the keel, I started at the stern post and then added the bow section of the strake.  Each section is made a bit longer after adjusting the ends that tuck into the rabbet.  You need to cut the ends to length so they fall on a frame.  When placing the second plank in each strake, you must cut it to length so it butts into the first cleanly and tightly.  

But now that I am working on the fourth strake I have switched and start at the bow.  The aft section of planking can now be run off the transom and sanded flush later.  You might see in the photos that I have yet to sand the last section of the fourth strake on one side.  I will continue up to the shear in this fashion.  Only five more strakes to go.  But even when you havent planked in a year it does come back to you quickly and get easier with each strake.
 
Here are some photos of how it looks today.  These photos show the Alaskan Yellow cedar really well.  
 

Congratulations for this beautyful model. It was a great pleasure to follow your log the last five years.
 

Very impressive presentation, Albert

Congratulations for this beautyful model. It was a great pleasure to follow your log the last five years.
 

Congratulations for this beautyful model. It was a great pleasure to follow your log the last five years.
 

Thank you very much for your comments and your liking, place the last photos, the model of Naiad is over, thank you so much for following me during construction and I thank Ed Tosti so much that with his magnificent drawings allowed me to build this beautiful frigate. Greetings to everyone and thanks again.
 

Yes actually...but not many pictures.  But here are the images for setting the garboard strake in position.  The garboard and all of the other planks are laser cut.  They will already be spiled to shape.  Even so, they will need to be pre-bent to fit without forcing them into position.  Unlike the MS longboat kit, this model will be planked from the keel upwards.  The garboard strake is made up of two sections.  It is important to start with the aft section first.  Below you can see the aft section of the garboard strake with quite a bend in it.  This is needed and its important to do so before gluing.  

The plank is 1/32" thick and was bent using the same method I always employ.  I used a hair dryer to heat it up while I twisted it to shape.  Here is an image from the barge construction but its the same technique used here.  If its not twisted and bent enough....then just clamp it again and continue to shape it.  The one difference this time however, was that I used a sacrificial piece of scrap wood on top of the plank when I clamped it to the table.  The Cedar is very soft and the clamp would dent it easily.  So placing a piece of wood on top of the plank and then clamping it to the table prevents it from being dented.  This is just an arbitrary plank from the barge kit and not the garboard but you get the idea.
 

Before gluing the aft section of the garboard in position, you must test it on the model.  Tweak it if needed but it shouldnt need much work.  One thing that will need to be done is to cut the forward end to length.  Because each model might vary slightly, I made this section extra long so it hangs over the frame as shown.  Just mark the plank on the center of the frame and cut it to length.  Do this AFTER twisting it to shape.  Then glue it into position.
 

The second forward section of the garboard doesnt need to be adjusted in length at all.  This section is pre-bent and twisted and glued into position.  It is worth noting that you should bevel the edge of the garboard along the first 5 frames where it sits against the keel at the bow.  This makes for a tighter and cleaner fit in the rabbet.  Remember to test it before you glue it on the model after you bend it.  You should be able to see where the bevel is needed.  Here is a photo of the garboard completed with both sections glued onto the model.  The  butt seam between the sections was darkened with a pencil on one side.
 

 
Here is a look at the forward end of the garboard.  You can see how nicely it fits into the rabbet.   I repeated this on the other side making sure they match.  It isnt too difficult when the planks are laser cut.  Remember that there are only 9 strakes per side.  So only eight more to go!!!  The garboard is the trickiest though because it sets the run for all of the other planks above it.  But if I wander slightly from my tick marks, I can correct those little issues as I move forward.  It is worth mentioning that you guys wont have any tick marks to rely on....unless you go through the exercise of lining out the hull as well.  I absolutely recommend it.  Your tick marks may not line up with mine exactly but if you wanted to give it a try with only nine strakes vs. 25 for a frigate......its good practice.