BANYAN

Thank you for the nice comments.
 
The planking at the bow has been further sanded and fitted with treenails.

Back to the rear castle.
Smaller wales (4) are placed on the clinker planking. Of course, none of the four have the same dimensions.
The drawings and photos are partly used to determine the "right" location. The dimensions between the wales are also taken into account for future painting works.
According to Mary's remains, the Wales certainly continue as far as sector 10 (the penultimate cannon port)
 
"penultimate"  A new English word for me (hopefully Mr. Google translate is correct 😳)

After applying these wales I have to read my books and think first.
The "frames" of the rear castle are much too thick. And the clinker planking on the transom also feels wrong.
This means extra sanding and cutting, probably a redo and a   smiley.
 
Thanks for following
 

Thank you to all for the comments, likes and for following along.
 
 Quick update.
 
 The main's channel shrouds are done. The little 3mm deadeyes (far left) are crazy small to lace and attach. I'm glad there are only two per mast.   
 
 Other than weaving the main's channel shroud ratlines and attaching the main yard with both lifts and braces, from the main mast aft all the rigging is done. 

 
 Thank you again to all of you for your thoughtfulness.
 
  Keith

Its clear to see how you are going about planking the hull that will support the forecastle.  Yours is a fabulous project that will help me when I resume work on the Great Harry.  Thanks!

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Agree wholeheartedly.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

I wish they would here also Keith   
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

That's a relief! Interesting way to make a wheel.
 
John

Oh, I don't know. If Woolies was gone, Coles would effectively have a monopoly. But I'm sure they wouldn't take advantage if that to hike the prices up . . . (irony).
 
Back to the subject at hand. A-a-a-and - IT WORKED!

In the event, I used a coping saw to cut it off instead of a fretsaw. It seemed like a better tool for the job. Very much heart in mouth, with the lathe at the slowest speed and gently pressing with the saw as the work rotated.
 
But - voila! Success! (very pleased - I'd been very worried that sawing the wheel off the base would destroy it, but it's turned out just as I'd hoped.)
 
Steven
 

I wish they would here also Keith   
 
cheers
 
Pat

I wish they would here also Keith   
 
cheers
 
Pat

Those planks look really good, keith!
 
John

More planking progress:-
 
As you can see below this is the 8th row (and final row) of parallel planks.

I decided to do a bit of measuring. Firstly I placed a pins, equi-spaced from the keel, about 1/6 of the length from bow and stern. Between these pins I stretched a taught line. I then used this line to place a series of additional pins.


I then measured the curved distance between the line and the 8th plank at 3 positions - front pin, maximum beam and rear pin. I then worked out the ratios of the measured distances.
 
At the front pin the length was half the length at maximum beam, so I concluded that the planks needed to be tapered to half width towards the bow.

At the rear pin the curved distance was circa 2/3 the measurement at maximum beam and hence I concluded that the planks needed to taper to 2/3 of their width at the stern.

Before continuing with taper planking I decided to reinforce the planks in the area of the engine room. The engine room interior walls appear to be steel (inner surface of hull plates). I therefore needed to hide the planks anyway. The interior side of the planks can just be seen in the next shot.


I cut strips of 1/32" ply to fit between the frames.


Having cut all the ply strips they were glued in place using PVA glue.

That's all for now friends.

To scupper or not to scupper.
 
Most contemporary models do not show the scuppers.   In fact the contemporary model of Speedwell doesnt show the scuppers. I didnt add the scuppers on my Winnie build which was typical.  But I am going to show them on my speedwell.   Nothing fancy.   These arent too crazy to do.   Not like the hawse holes will be.  But you do have to be careful.  You need to carefully measure them inboard and outboard so they look like they line up.  You can actually use the deck planking templates because I have marked the inboard locations for all of the scuppers.
 
When I drill my scuppers I dont even try to drill them all the way through.   That adds unnecessary difficulty.   I drill shallow holes only about 1/16" deep or slightly more.   Inboard, I start with a small pilot hole with a small drill bit.   Then in this case, I used a #47 drill bit afterwards to make them larger.   Finally I used a round file to smooth out the hole’s insides.   I lightly sanded the inboard bulwarks over the scuppers with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out any fraying.  This will require some paint touch-up later when they are all done.  The scupper holes were made flush with the deck level or just a hair above.
 
I prefer to use a soft pencil to darken the inside of the holes.  I made sure to cover the entire inside surface of the scuppers including the back of the hole.   Then I touch up the red bulwark paint.  On this model I drilled the scuppers before I added the waterway.  I just wanted to try something new.  It worked out really well for me.  No chipping or fraying of the water way at all.  You can do it whichever way is more comfortable for you.
 
The picture below shows the holes drilled and darkened with the pencil.   They are nice and dark.  I touched up the red paint as well on the bulwarks afterwards.  You can see the waterway strip also prepared in advance and ready to be glued into position.
 

The waterway is a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I sanded one of the four corners of the strip down its entire length.  I used an Emory board or sanding stick.   Basically I made it triangular in profile.  Then I held it in position so I could mark the positions for the scuppers along its length.  I really tried to get these exactly where they should be located.  I used a round mini file to make the half round openings along the length of the waterway where the scuppers were marked out.  Once in position this really looked good.   I used the same soft pencil to darken the round notches I made along the waterway as well.   Below you can see how the scuppers inboard turned out.  I made the waterway in two pieces for the gun deck rather than use one long strip that spanned across the whole length.
 

I also prepared the waterway for the poop deck, port and starboard.   This was easy...no scuppers, LOL.   Just make the strip triangular.  Dont worry about trying to make it concave or anything fancy.   
 
Here is a photo.
 

Finally to the outboard side.  No difference here really.   I used those outboard templates we used way back when....remember those.   If you have to shift the template fore and aft a bit to line them up with the inboard scuppers you made on the opposite side of the deck/hull its no big deal.   But this template will give you a really good start and can be rested atop the wales.
 

 
I drilled with a small drill bit first and again made the holes larger using the #47 bit.   I cleaned them up a bit and darkened them with a soft pencil.  Once again...no need to drill all the way through and hope you meet the same scupper hole you drilled on the inboard side.  Fake it ...till you make it .....I always say.   I drilled part way through once again.   Make sure you really darken them inside the holes nicely and completely.
 

Dont add the waterway on the fcastle deck yet.   I think it best to drill the hawse holes first.   I will be doing that next me thinks.
 

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Good point, as I hadn't noticed the deadeye until it was pointed out and I looked again closely ('Just ordered new glasses because my prescription changed, but it will take 1 - 2 weeks to get them).  'Guess Keith and I share a couple traits, since on a Pennsylvania long rifle I made (and was showing to some new friends recently) - I kept pointing all the things I 'did wrong' (mostly small details).  A man with some expertise in antique firearms said to forget real or imagined 'faults' - he thought it was beautifully done ... as is Keith's U.S.S. Tennessee ! 

Thank you to all for the likes and for following along.
 
 Maggie update.....her progress has slowed these past two weeks due to an infection but hopefully once that clears she'll continue making strides in her recovery. Thank you again to each of you for your prayers and thoughts for her,
 
 I've been able to make some limited progress on the Tennessee's main shrouds. I look back with envy at those days when when I was able to devote eight hours plus at the worktable. I should have worked longer hours back then as now my eyesight for close work is diminishing. I've always been a bit of a perfectionist and so naturally my mindset when I first started working on the Tennessee was get it done as perfect as possible. Because the grains of sand drain ever faster my mindset now is, better quit messing about and get it done. It was never going to be perfect, I no longer have the luxury of tilting at windmills.     
 
 Notice the loupe among the tools used for running the shrouds. I had to start using the loupe to check my work on the deadeye lashings as on one pair I ran the line through the same hole twice. I didn't catch this till after the deadeyes were glued in place and the shroud line attached. Once upon a time I would have redone it, now, I let er fly. I don't think anyone will ever notice and I really can't tell and I know which pair it is. But it nags at me, so be it. 
 
I went back through the log and I couldn't find where I explained the how and why I lash the deadeye pairs off ship. The reason being the deadeyes are too small and there just isn't the room. 
 
 The main's channel shrouds requires the measurement from one deadeye top the the other deadeye top to be 0.70 inches, same size as a US penny. To keep the size constant I've superglued the rotating adjust balls of the third hand to keep the distance fixed. That way I don't have to use a ruler to check each pair though I do spot check to make sure the adjustment is still set correctly. 

 
Starboard side. Try as hard as I might, I can't seem to get em perfect aligned. Oh well, more shadows in the wind.  

 
 Port side. The second pair in from the left is the pair where I ran the line through the same hole twice, top deadeye, top hole. I've always intended for the model to be viewed from the starboard side so it was pretty easy 'let it fly' rationalization.
 
 Nine more pair of deadeyes and shroud lines and I can set about with ratline weaving.
 
 Again, thank you to all.  

Who says that the deadeyes have to be 'perfectly' aligned?  As they are tensioning devices, variations are bound to occur over time as shrouds get periodically adjusted.  Your ship looks just fine.

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

And here's the ship's wheel; just waiting for the glue to dry and I can cut it off its base. Should happen on Monday. Wish me luck!



Steven

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.
 
Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.
 
These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.
 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.
 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.
 
I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.
 


Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.
 
The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.
 
But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 
 
Chuck
 

Here are 13 hulls, awnings and 'verandahs' (promenade decks?). And the thing with all the clamps on it is the promenade deck for the big model - I'm gradually adding planks; one or two each day.

Plus the deck fittings for the wheel and what I think is storage. And the wheel itself under construction. I cheated with this. I asked a fellow Men's Shedder to turn it on the lathe because I don't have the skills. You can see the little holes in the sides for the handles. Once they're in place I'll slice it off its substructure and we should have a wheel instead of a cylinder.


Steven