BANYAN

It is pretty miserable outside today but at least the workshop is sitting at a comfortable 9c (48f). 
I made the pawl handle from a scrap bit of square section tube .250" outside and .025" wall. I cut a piece of mahogany .2" square and glued it in the tube to provide strength while I machined it. I then drilled a 1/16" hole towards one end to create the pivot point for the handle. I then drilled a second hole in the side furthest away from the pivot holes to take the eyebolt. I then parted off the handle to the required width (0.1") on the Byrnes saw fitted with a slitting saw blade.

I then hand filed the end with the hole to form the radius and remove the adjacent side. I then threw it away dissatisfied with the accuracy of my filing. I repeated this whole process a second time with the same result. I was taught many years ago how to file perfect radii but I had never tried it on such small parts (.05" radius). Anyway I made myself some filing bobbins from mild steel and did the job properly.



I did a test fit on the pawl body and then went on to make the eyebolts (.09" diameter) as per the method previously described.


The eyebolts were then soldered in place. While I was at it I soldered a location spigot on the base of the pawl body.

Finally I cut some 1/16" rod for the pivot and assembled the parts.

The small chain rollers were then made - not much explanation needed as the photos say it all.

I then got on with fitting the various parts to the deck.
The wooden plinths were made and positioned using card templates.


The positions for the chain pawls were likewise located using a template.

The pawls and chain rollers were then glued in place.


Finally I found a bit of chain and tested the run. 

The chain is a bit large really. It has 11 links per inch and I think I will try something smaller before I commit.

Hi All, I had the pleasure of seeing this model 'in the flesh' today , and photos do not do it justice - the paint work is very rich and the model, as a whole, is going to be a very fine example.
 
Thanks for hosting me Steven.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks very much Michael, stow that away as well.  
 
I had to look twice at the cabin paneling with the cushions in place; I thought it was the real 'McCoy' you were using as a reference, not your scale version.  That is impressive!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi All, I had the pleasure of seeing this model 'in the flesh' today , and photos do not do it justice - the paint work is very rich and the model, as a whole, is going to be a very fine example.
 
Thanks for hosting me Steven.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi again Steven, WRT your point about throwing the 'lot' over the side with a couple of men seems counter to the purpose if you get my meaning?  If two men can lift the lot, then that amount of chain will not have added much weight to the anchor.  However,  a length of chain would assist in keeping the anchor rope lower down near the seabed thus providing a better 'lead' when setting / getting the anchor to bight?
 
Sorry, just adding to the confusion
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks very much Michael, stow that away as well.  
 
I had to look twice at the cabin paneling with the cushions in place; I thought it was the real 'McCoy' you were using as a reference, not your scale version.  That is impressive!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi All, I had the pleasure of seeing this model 'in the flesh' today , and photos do not do it justice - the paint work is very rich and the model, as a whole, is going to be a very fine example.
 
Thanks for hosting me Steven.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks very much Michael, stow that away as well.  
 
I had to look twice at the cabin paneling with the cushions in place; I thought it was the real 'McCoy' you were using as a reference, not your scale version.  That is impressive!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for the updates Tim, this is a very fine model and it is interesting reading how you research and approach the making of the various components - duplicate just allow usd to enjoy the detail and workmanship twice   to remove them simply edit your post, and in the strip at the bottom showing the thumbnails of all your  uploaded image files, simply click on the delete icon at the bottom of the thumbnail.
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks very much Michael, stow that away as well.  
 
I had to look twice at the cabin paneling with the cushions in place; I thought it was the real 'McCoy' you were using as a reference, not your scale version.  That is impressive!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi All, I had the pleasure of seeing this model 'in the flesh' today , and photos do not do it justice - the paint work is very rich and the model, as a whole, is going to be a very fine example.
 
Thanks for hosting me Steven.
 
cheers
 
Pat

And it wasn't gray either.

Coming back to the lugs for the shrouds etc. (have been travelling last week and couldn't follow progress): how would they have been attach to the bulwark on the prototype ? Somehow, I would have expected some sort of chainplate to distribute the stress or the stanchions taking this function (albeit they are leaning the wrong way for this - or perhaps the right way in order to prevent the bulwark being pulled in by the shrouds).
 
No comments on the metal-work
 

Eberhard. I don't have any decent photographs of the area as it is very congested - lots of blocks and halyards obscure the view. The plans show reinforcing steelwork between the lugs and the deck - although not in enough detail for modelling.  As it wont be visible I don't plan to reproduce.
  

The workshop conditions over the weekend have been tolerable so I have done a bit more brass work.
 
The chain guide bollards were a straightforward turning job. The only complication was I needed rather small turning tools so a bit of grinding was necessary. In the photo they are temporarily placed on the deck minus their circular wooden plinth which will be made later.

Having scratched my head for as bit I decided that the lug on the slender bollards would be more easily created if I made the bollards in parts with a split at the lug position. I therefor turned the top portion and then cut a slot to take the lug. The lug itself was milled to shape and then parted off to thickness. A 1/16" central hole was drilled along the axis of all parts for location purposes.


The lower section of the bollard was then turned and its square based was milled. All parts were assembled on a central rod and glued with CA glue.


I then made a start on the chain lock. I decided that I could make the 2 pawl devices from a piece of brass bar of 1.0"x.55"x.25". 


I needed a thickness of .2" so I reduced the thickness with a fly cutter. I then drilled the 2 off 1/16"holes for the pivot point of the pawl. 
I then cut off the waste material.........plus some that wasn't waste material..............the cutter slipped in the collet. So the plan changed to making 1 pawl device from the piece of brass.

I milled the circular profile by pivoting the brass in the vice around a central pin (actually a 1/16' drill) - taking a succession of horizontal cuts will the end mill.

With a light filing I had the desired circular form.

I then slotted out the centre using a slitting saw.

I repeated the process to create a second pawl body.

The two parts were then aligned through the pivot hole and stuck together using double sided tape.

It was then back to the mill to cut the ramp angle on the in-feed side.
With the ramp cut the two parts were cut off to height with a slitting saw.


I hope to finish tomorrow.
 
 
 

Thank you for your praise and all the "likes", dear friends. I am happy you enjoy the pics and the progress.

Paper brings a huge range of options; it is possible to create almost everything using only ordinary modeling tools and it costs next to nothing (except spent work and time of course...). With every other model I can find a new and better application of this material. Of course, I prefer to make ornaments and scupltures from Modurit (this is my favourite modeling clay available in Czech Republic) and there is still opportunity to improve details and realism. Now I have made tiny reliefs for cannons,  8 of them will come for smaller cannons - sakers on the quarterdeck - these cannons will be made later. At the same time, I created other ornaments and placed them on the hull.
 

 
I use mainly photos of museum models for inspiration.

Gosh, weren't we young then! Lovely work for a young 'un, too.

Pat Thanks, I will draw up the sequence that I used, it might take a day or so.
Steve funny you should mention that, The very first model that I made when I came to Canada was a silver  plated model of a Sherman Tank that was used in the second world war that helped to liberate Holland I made it for the Sarcee Barack's Silver collection. it was a 1/72 scale model and the track actually worked there were 1571 parts that were made to complete this model. I folded a piece of paper with my name age address and that I made it, and placed it inside the model before it was delivered. 
 

I had forgotten about this until you mentioned the idea so yes I will do that perhaps in the charts locker.
 
Michael

Slowly but surely she is taking form John, this will be nicely lined model.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Beautiful joinery Michael, a master carpenter couldn't do better.  
 
Those screws look great; any chance of seeing the 'formula' or process you settled on?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Beautiful joinery Michael, a master carpenter couldn't do better.  
 
Those screws look great; any chance of seeing the 'formula' or process you settled on?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks, Pat!
 
John

Thank you All for your kind comments, and also to those who are following along quietly.
I spent the morning sorting out the forward and aft bulkheads for the dining area had to scratch my head a few times. This afternoon was spent prepping the materials for them. I have decided that the forward bulkhead will be made to include the sides of the seating areas, and will have a location tab at the edges to locate the forward ends of the side panels, the aft bulk head will form as parts of the cooking area and as there is no door they are smaller and will also have a location tab for the aft end of the side panels.
A couple of shot showing today's progress
 

 

 
Michael
 

Spent a few hours this morning mucking about with turning tool form, working at making minute screws from hard brass which turns  better than the small brass plated pins that have heads that are forged and require some very careful cleaning up in order to create the fake screws. I eventually came up with the formula for the smallest screws they have a .5mm body with a 1mm head.
 

This afternoon assembled the top half of the port side paneling after finishing the forward cabinet door hinges, I glued on the rear vertical supports and boxed out the interiors of the two cabinets. I am still deciding haw to deal with the middle panel. yesterday I picked up some very nice tan material for the cushions.
 



The insides of the cabinets are recycled extremely fine grained old growth clear fir that came from the redwood garage door The frames around the redwood panes was old growth clear fir.
I put a coat of Tung oil on the maple it has a nice glow.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Eric, I know the feeling, I too am guilty of such processes - moving ahead without being fully focussed.   I wish you well in your travels and I am sure you will be able to fix the 'boo boos'.
 
cheers
 
Pat