BANYAN

Nice work Patrick, that is looking very good!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Vossy, Hobby Tools Australia in Melbourne stocks K&S wire and posts out very quickly
 
cheers
 
Pat

A little more progress.  The forward cant frames are now all fitted and I've started fitting hawse pieces - hopefully they'll all be on next Monday.
 
The problem at the moment is School Holidays!  There are lots of visitors in the museum and I'm doing far more talking than model making.  Of course if anyone shows any real interest I tell them about this amazing international forum of model makers that I know of! 
 
John
 

 

Thanks for the likes and kind comments. For me it's very much 2 steps forward and 1 step backward because not only am I making more mistakes (like accidentally cutting my main stay in half... eyes not so good some days) It's a very steep learning curve for me also as I'm slowly getting familiar with Steel and Lever and having to re do a lot of my earlier work.
 
So Dave I think you might cross the finish before me and Thunder that's very kind of you, but please don't take what I've done or written to be correct as I may have mistakenly misinterpreted, or overlooked something.
 
Currently I'm redoing the blocks that hang under the tops inline with the replica top photo Dave provided on his build log, which accords with Steel's discriptions. And whilst looking at the replica and Victory tops noticed I had the stays wrong around the head's so a simple fix to correct.
 
I'll post some pics soon I hope. Cheers dashi

More of your excellent work Ed; that rigging looks really good - love the colour of your running rigging.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

If you can do that with a head cold, it is no wonder your other work is so good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Terrific work Patrik, those decks and their furniture look fab!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Vossy, Hobby Tools Australia in Melbourne stocks K&S wire and posts out very quickly
 
cheers
 
Pat

Vossy, Hobby Tools Australia in Melbourne stocks K&S wire and posts out very quickly
 
cheers
 
Pat

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 317 – Upper Yards - Main
 
On the fore upper yards, I attached most of the rigging, including the long lines of running rigging, to the yards before erecting the assembly of the pole mast with the royal and skysail yards mounted.  This was a bit of a mess, due to of the number of lines and also because many needed to be coiled to avoid tangle.  This left some kinked and fuzzy.  For the main upper yards pictured below, only the standing rigging, and not all of that, was attached at the bench.
 

 
In the picture, the royal stay and royal backstays go down at the bottom of the picture.  Standing lifts were installed over a grid to help level them.  I noticed later the missing footropes on the skysail.  These will have to be fitted later on the model.  Can't wait.  The next picture shows the above assembly erected on the mast.
 
 
Despite best efforts at the bench, the port, royal standing lift had to be removed and installed in place to level the yard.  Some loose ends need to be clipped off and the wire sheet chains are still on the loose.  The next picture is closer.
 
 
The next step was to run the falls from the two skysail sheet chains dangling below the center of the royal yard.  That has been completed in the next picture.
 
 
The upper arrow points to one of the skysail sheets.  These run all the way down to the main deck, passing through fairleads in the main top.  After belaying, these lines get a lot of tension adjustment to pull down evenly on the yard and make the standing lifts – lower arrow – taut.  To do this, I pull down on the fall with tweezers above the pin, then haul on the loose end.  No glue on the belaying point until all the lines are run and adjusted.  The next picture shows the fore and main upper masts.
 
 
The height of these masts is impressive – the main extends 180 feet above the deck.  The fore royal stay has been run in this picture.  The tension between that and the two backstays sets the straightness of the mast.  The last picture shows the lower end of the main royal stay.
 
 
The 4 1/2" stay descends from the upper left corner of the photo through a bullseye strapped to the main topmast head.  The loose ends of the splice between the masts have not yet been clipped off.  The free end of the stay is clamped taut above the picture so the seizings may be tied at the lower end where it is fastened to an eyebolt under the leathered stays.  The gang of stays and shrouds made this a difficult connection.  I had to resort to a hook to the barely reachable eyebolt.  A shackle on this would have made life easier, but too late for that.  Drawing/Rigging List revision is pending for those that follow.  An alternative sometimes used was to strap an eye to the top forward stay collar, but this would have had to be done before setting the collar.
 
Ed

Hi folks
 
Thanks for all of your Likes and comments. Appreciated, as always.
 
I decided to have a go at doing Genesis’ RIB tender.  The photos are pretty self-explanatory, but suffice to say, there’s a fair way to go, before I can call this tender ‘finished’.  It’s a start, though.
 
Have a great night.
 
Cheers. 
 
Patrick

More of your excellent work Ed; that rigging looks really good - love the colour of your running rigging.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

If you can do that with a head cold, it is no wonder your other work is so good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Seasons greetings to you also Ed, thanks for another informative year.
 
regards
 
Pat

Oh come on Ed, those are real yards treated in photoshop aren't they?....?  
 
very clean, crisp metal and wood work.
 
cheers
 
Pat

For Rick, this was my solution to the stern bits, but I still have to touch up the red. Everything I sailed was a racing boat and we had travelers and boom vangs but I don't remember the rod the traveler traveled on having a name, but I put one in there sort of like yours. Also with a traveler you have to cleat it in the center, so I put a cleat there. And I moved the two that were on the stanchions to the counter, outside the run of the traveler, which makes more sense to me. We're full on making up cutter fittings as we go here.
 
Also as you see I added a boom crutch. I made it somewhat tall as otherwise you'd have to bend low to get past the boom when it's lashed down.

That is some very nice detailing Greg; looking good!
 
cheers
 
Pat

If you can do that with a head cold, it is no wonder your other work is so good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Dave I was researching the blocks under the fore and main caps and found your log to be a great help especially the photos of the replica's tops. Then I noticed how you have the stays over the heads so after some more research found a clear picture of HMS Victory which has it the same with the jeer pendants running down between the mast and stay, so I've corrected my stays to match. 
 
Thanks for a great log, Cheers dashi

That's looking very good Vossiewulf - very crisp work.
 
cheers
 
Pat

If you can do that with a head cold, it is no wonder your other work is so good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

If you can do that with a head cold, it is no wonder your other work is so good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Interesting conversation regarding the lights, thanks for that. Thanks for the views and likes. It has been a little quiet in the model shop as I have been nursing a persistent head cold. I have done a couple of small jigsaw puzzles at the kitchen table but that is about it till this evening.
 
I did not want to do anything too demanding so thought it was about time to start setting the glass into the cabin sides managed to rough in the port side light.
First I planed down a bit of mahogany to 1/8th with the little bench thickness jig and the block plane. The edges were then rounded to approx 1/16 radius. The rounded edges were then stripped off on the table saw. And while I was at it I stripped the edges off a section of wooden Venetian blind you can see those laying on top of the mahogany in the first picture. The glass is some clear plastic packaging material likely buterate because it was a vac formed piece that had a fairly large flat sheet area that is 1/32nd thick so representing some 1/4 inch glass
 

 
The fitted pieces still need a bit of shaping.
 

 
It is all snug enough that it stood up OK without falling out so I'm happy with that.
 

 

 
The next tasks are to do the starboard side and when they are done set up to drill the holes for the retaining flat head screws.
 

 
That's it for now.
 
Michael

Hi, just catching up with this build and got so far to page 4. Never have I read such an exceptional build from both the builder point of view and for all the support and discussions. This is an example of how this website works at its best. I had this kit brought me for Christmas and this topic could not be better, even it was a practicum, due to the discussion and research involved.

Lovely work Doris on the model and the dolphin support stand; and thanks for sharing the process.
 
cheers
 
Pat