BANYAN

In the meantime, I've been working on the structure to support and protect the side rudders.
 
A pair of through-beams form the supports, and are cut out to take the rudder shafts.

 
A framework from the beams forward to the hull forms a triangle which protects the rudders from collisions etc. It will be filled in with planking.

The upper through-beam is forrard of the lower one, so the rudders will be angled forward to where the steersman stands. The rudder shafts will be lashed to the through-beams, but with enough play so the rudders can pivot around the shaft to steer the ship.

I had this structure in place earlier in the build but had to remove it because other things needed to be done first. Now it's time to put it back again.
[edit] Looking at the photos, maybe I have to have another look at those oarports. They do look a little rough. [/edit]
 
Steven 
 

Ciao e grazie a tutti.
Altre foto…
 
Hello and thanks to everyone.
More photos...
for tabycz, use the FF230 of the proxxon
elastic bands are very useful druxey
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto

Thanks for the likes.
 
Also thanks to Don and Carl. That kadirga footage in particular is amazing and very informative. Unfortunately both these vessels are single-banked, so there's no upper and lower deck, so no ladders down belowdecks.
 
I think there are no perfect parallels, because after the 12th century galleys became single-banked owing to a technological advance - first they began having more than one oar per bench (alla sensile), then later a single oar per bench with several oarsmen per oar (a scaloccio). Double-banked galleys vanished from the scene because these new galleys were faster - a higher power to weight ratio - less weight per oarsman because they didn't have that extra deck.
 
I also looked at the footage of the trireme reconstruction Olympias, but they had an upper deck with a "slot" in it running from bow to stern, which gave access to the oarbanks below.
 
So, can anybody who's been building multi-decked vessels, no matter the period, give me some idea of the expected size of the hatch in the deck and the width of the ladder itself?
 
The main factor I have to allow for is getting oars down from deck level through the hatch without obstruction, so the hatch might have to be longer fore and aft than if it were just to allow access for a crewman. [edit] And maybe I should be thinking about adding a cargo hatch as well . . .[/edit]
 
Thanks,
 
Steven 

I meant to post this last evening...........sorry for being late with it.   I did try to correct that backwards mast Carl..........broke while I was trying to refit it.   I fixed it and will need to repaint it.   as mentioned,  I was play'in with the Vendetta all morning.........made some progress!   the anchors have been painted,  and I trimmed the screws........they had like three injection points from the sprue they are on.  they will be painted soon.  the fore deck gun has been glued in place,  in preparation for the fore structure to be cemented in place,  as soon as it is ready.  I also painted the anchor chain.....which has been cemented in place as well.

the paravanes have been added to the forward area.......I haven't cemented the funnel back in place yet.........   I want to get the davits in place....them and the life boats are laying on the desk.....before they get lost!   for the fore structure,  the supports were added to it.

the vents are visible here........I've painted them an off white {light gray}.   I will either dab the throats with flat black or red......not sure which is better to use.   here's where the funnel went back on.........I cleaned it up and it looks better.

still need to put the depth markers on........I'll do that during the next session.    more work on the fore structure........I painted the railings and touched up some of the glue marks.  now I need to touch up the red areas and add more to it.


I cut out the fore deck railings and trimmed the attachment tabs,  but further than that the session stopped.   we ran out for our Friday errands.  I will try and get back to her during the work week.......I'm not promising....but I will try.

The pump of early version for model of Royal yacht Queen Victoria.
Made of steel, industrial-grade blacking and corrosion protection. Scale 1/32

Looks great Steven, all starting to come together for you now.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

Really nice work Karl,  I especially like, and am impressed, that you were able to maintain a symmetrical and evenly spaced opening despite the tapering shape.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looks great Steven, all starting to come together for you now.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice work Greg; this build is particularly well detailed and weathered - love the realistic look of the ventilation intake stacks etc.
 
A very nice addition to your miniature fleet (I know, still a bit to be done)
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice work Greg; this build is particularly well detailed and weathered - love the realistic look of the ventilation intake stacks etc.
 
A very nice addition to your miniature fleet (I know, still a bit to be done)
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice work Greg; this build is particularly well detailed and weathered - love the realistic look of the ventilation intake stacks etc.
 
A very nice addition to your miniature fleet (I know, still a bit to be done)
 
cheers
 
Pat

Here's the dromon with masts and spur dry-fitted and deck-beams glued in to form the line of the deck, at intervals of about 4-5 beams apart. When they're all in place, there will be a deck beam for every two frames - so there'll be something like 52 of them, and in full scale they'll be 0.48 metre (approx 18") apart, or (where the oars are) two per oarbench. This ties in with the known intervals of 13th century Sicilian galley deck beams.
 
  
 
In the close-up picture you can see the very slight upward curve of the deck beams.

 
As I mentioned above they'll be approx 100mm deep in full scale. I'd have liked to make them deeper, but there are serious issues with headroom for the lower oarsmen vs the overall height of the vessel above the waterline and even more importantly the height of the upper bank of oarports above water level. The higher the oarports the steeper the angle of the oars and the harder it is for the upper oarsmen to row. As it is, the lower oarsmen will have just enough room not to bump their heads as they row. Though for this depth of deck-beam there should be fore-and-aft support beams held up by columns at intervals,  I won't be putting them in  - just too much complication for something that will never be seen. 
 
I've also put in the cross-beams for the rudder structure now, to keep from possible interference later on when it's too late to fix.

She's starting to look like a real ship! 
 
Steven 

The two main superstructures have been glued to the deck. There are 4 secondary gun platforms that required 2 day’s work to add stanchions then rigging the 3 bar railings. 
 
Throw on some ladders and a few more carley floats and done. 

All four pom poms now on the ole girl.
 
OC.

Nice to see an update John, but not to hear of the health news.  Best wishes for a full recovery and speedy return to the slipway.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Slow but high quality progress Ed; I very much enjoy seeing your masterful work - it continues to keep me enthused with my build (which at the moment is more like a chore than fun but i will work through it :))
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice to see an update John, but not to hear of the health news.  Best wishes for a full recovery and speedy return to the slipway.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hello,
thanks for the recognition of my work.
A couple of days later i can show you new results.
I hope you like my progress to the section model.
Looks now the pictures:

 

 

 

 

 
 

Yes, the beams are most likely all the same radius, Steven.

Ciao a tutti, grazie tantissimo per il supporto che date, siete troppo gentili.
 
Hi everyone, thank you very much for your support, you are too kind.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto
 

I took a shot this evening with my dslr,   it was a low light shot using the camera flash.
 
OC.

A very methodical and practical approach that will serve you well Jason; looks very good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

A great tutorial on scale mast making Ed; appreciated.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looks good UV; both the model and the workshop.  Must be good to finally be able to work with everything 'to hand' again?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice job on those davits Dan, they look terrific.
 
cheers
 
Pat