BANYAN

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Very nice work Tecko; that is some serious alteration.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Pat:
The details are very nice. Those small pieces along the bulwark look really good. 
 
Russ
 
 

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Wow. Thank you @Omega1234, @jablackwell, @oneslim, @John Allen, @BANYAN, @KeithAug, @mtaylor, and @prutser for your 'likes'.
________________________________________________________________________
Decided to add a bow section to the wider end. The bulkheads already in place did not allow me to deepen the bow section.
However I still carried on the best I knew how at the time.

 
Needed to bend planking wood at a sharper curvature. Decided to made a variable curvature plank bending mould.
As I was planking the bow I realized I will eventually need to use wood putty. So I changed tactic and only placed planks to hold the putty.

 
Decided on the cabin type and started to build this from 3 mm Masonite.

Nice adjustment Dave; they look good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

OK, OK you're making me hungry - where's the fresh fish already?   Very nice and lifelike build of a working trawler build Denis; love the detail.
 
regards
 
Pat

Very nice display piece Rob, you have done an excellent job on those half-hulls and chosen a very good way display them.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice display piece Rob, you have done an excellent job on those half-hulls and chosen a very good way display them.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks.  I made up a few coils using a simple jig with different lengths between pins, dowsing them with Mat Medium and hanging them on the pins on the mast pinrail.


Certainly better than round loops.
Maury

Cleating off the three jib tacks and halliards.  The boom downhaul is also tied off the the mast rail.


It is a challenge to get in there without knocking something else.  Doing proper cleat hitches is no easy task either.  After a dab of dilute glue (PVA) the tails are cut to about 1 - 2" which is starting to clear up the deck for the rest of the rigging.
Maury
 

Thay have that routine worked out very well.  It is amazing what the old generation could do without the power tools these lads are using.  That is not to take away from their skills; they certainly work fast and well.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Let me the be the first to welcome you to the dark side Tecko
 
Nice work on the boat.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very clever Tecko; a little humour to keep the viewers attention is a great idea.  This will be a very interesting diorama.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Techo, just found your log and what a great subject to see and learn about. Enjoyed getting up to date and look forward to your future contributions.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great progress Greg.  Those decks are very nicely detailed.  Are they an after-market purchase or part of the kit?
 
cheers
 
Pat

OK, OK you're making me hungry - where's the fresh fish already?   Very nice and lifelike build of a working trawler build Denis; love the detail.
 
regards
 
Pat

Congrats on your retirement Alan.  You may be swimming in circles at the moment but I am sure the eddies are taking you in the right direction. 
 
cheers
 
Pat 

Another warm welcome to MSW Jobbie.  you have a great collection of nicely built models; look forward to your build of Supply.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thank you @BANYAN, @oneslim, @John Allen, and @mtaylor for your 'likes'.
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Decided to build another boat using the leftover stern sections from the kit. This boat will be a Buoy Tender, called CLEM-PETER, named after the two museum members who had built a diorama showing the different types of buoys and navigational signages around the Port of Ballina. Their display will be replaced by this Bridge and Boat(s) diorama.
 

 

 

 

 

 

While working on my modified MS 1:96 scale version of the “Phantom” I found that I needed to make three very small turnbuckles. (They were referred to as stretching screws on the plan.)  I had bought some brass telescoping thin wall tubing previously for making yard bands and thought up a way to use them to make a fairly realistic fitting.  I took some 1.3 mm brass tubing that was just big enough to allow an eye bolt that came with the kit to slip into it.  Then I used the 1.8 mm brass tubing (the next size up) that the 1.3 mm tube could be slipped inside of that for the main body of the turnbuckle.

 I marked the length of the 1.8 mm tube and the length of the opening with a felt pen. 

 Taking the 1.8 mm tube to my vise, I cut out the open areas on both sides with a fine narrow file.

 I cut  the 1.8 mm tube to length for the main body and cut a pair of short lengths of the 1.3  mm tube for the inside ends of the turnbuckle. Taking the five pieces to my soldering block, I applied flux to the shortened eye bolt stems and the outside of the 1.3 mm tube. 

The pieces were then assembled together and stretched out on the block with a couple of toothpicks stuck through the eye bolt holes to hold it steady.

 
 I cut some small flakes of solder and placed them at the ends of the turnbuckle body and applied my soldering iron to the 1.8 mm tube.  After it cooled off I just cleaned up the ends with a fine file and blackened it.  While the fitting still seemed a little large to me, I was quite satisfied with it.  By varying the size of the components the size of the turnbuckles can readily be adjusted for various other scales.

 

Great progress Greg.  Those decks are very nicely detailed.  Are they an after-market purchase or part of the kit?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Congrats on your retirement Alan.  You may be swimming in circles at the moment but I am sure the eddies are taking you in the right direction. 
 
cheers
 
Pat