Matrim

it would have driven you mad if you had left it without correcting though...even though 99.9999999% of the world would not have...

Love it. Plus I will try and approach my ratlines with your approach as it will keep things tidier than my (doing it by eye)

Major milestone tonight. Finished the rat lines on all the lower shrouds. I said I would count them but I couldn’t help myself... 1,392 clove hitches. 
I used the “draw the actual shroud position on paper” technique to keep the lines properly spaced and the shrouds straight. 

 

 

 
Here is the finished product.  Maybe not  a “10” but looks pretty good to me.  I used  50 wt thread to keep the scale and keep the knots from being too bulky. 
 
Not sure what I will work on next. Definitely something without clove hitches. The yards seem to be calling. Those are pretty much the last wooden pieces that need to be made. 
 
Tom

 

 

Hello MSW
What started out as only intending to do the rat lines behind the futtock shrouds while they were easy to get to, ended up being a complete set on the main mast.  I guess that’s good since sooner or later they need to get done. I guess I will do the same on the port side now. Then I can put in the lower deadeyes for the top mast shrouds which was the original plan. I guess plans are like rules... subject to change without notice. 😜😁


 


And before anyone asks, I don’t know how many clove hitches I will need. Quick math tells me about 1300 just for the lower shrouds. After all those it doesn’t really matter if it is 1,000 or 10,000. Your brain eventually goes to mush after a few hundred. Good thing there are other things to work on 😁!
Tom

Guy
will these photos help you. The keel was built up in height enough to allow a bulkhead With a slot to slide over the keel just like a standard POB build. 
 
these are all the photos of the framework that I have. 






 
Tom

1.   U.S. Coast Guard Cutters & Craft  of World War 2.    The classic reference book by Robert L. Scheina. Book is in good condition, with dust jacket, with typical shelf wear.
Used copies of this book typically go for $30+.   This is an extra copy, so I’m letting it go at a big discount.  $18.

2.  The Mary Rose:  The excavation and Raising of Henry VIII’s Flagship, by Margaret Rule.  Hardcover with dust jacket, good condition, some shelf wear.  $5

3.  The National Maritime Museum, edited by Basil Greenhill.   (copyright 1982).   Softcover, Good condition some shelf wear.  The type of book sold in museums, full of photos and descriptions of the collection.  These books are generally a bit pricey when purchased at the Museum gift shop. This is an older book, but still full of lots of great photos. $3.  
 
Notes:
Books come from a smoke free home.  Buyer pays shipping from New Hampshire. Figure $8 to $10 to most CONUS locations via Priority Mail, and half that or less for book rate, if you don’t mind waiting.  PayPal preferred, other options can be discussed. 

Use PM to reach me...

-Bill

If those are particle/waferboard side pieces on the cabinets, you might want to run a 1X4 along the inside where the bolts are holding the center framework. This will help insure that the bolt heads don't pull through. Don't ask me how I know. 😞

Greetings! and nice to see you becoming active

Greetings! and nice to see you becoming active

The design work is over, and now we are in full production. After completion, they will be delivered in order.
 

Managed to see this film and thoroughly enjoyed the ride. CGI is a game changer. I suspected a Fletcher on Atlantic convoy duty at that time was iffy; thanks for confirming that, Jud. Whatever the detail faults, I felt it was a convincing fictional drama of a much neglected aspect of 'The longest battle'.

That's exactly what the system does. It's 'unread content since last visit', so will put you right at that point.
 
 
We've no intentions of changing this whatsoever, even if it were possible, and I don't think it is without fiddling with actual code.

If you click on the little circle at the left of the log title it will take you to the first unread post.  If the log title is in gray with no circle at the left,then there are no new posts in that log since your last visit.
 
Mark

Oh no Rob. Based on some photos Bob sent me over on my Cutty Sark build log I removed the chains today and reinstalled them more accurately to the 1912 photo. Had to risk doing some deck damage doing that. Kind of scared to remove them again. Wonder if I might brush them with a little black wash?

Wonderful!
 
First..if you want to add furled sails to the Constitution with her yards as they are...that would be absolutely perfect.
If I may suggest one little item....furled sails area bit more rigorous  to install, and when the yeards are mounted and fully rigged with foot ropes and such...to do so might be more problematic then anything else.   Adding completely set sails would be far easier in this application....IMV
 
One little tidbit...a secret actually,...that I have not divulged, is this......  the furled sails on my Glory of the Seas are not actually paper...as is are the set sails.  Nope...for me to get the creases and folds I required, paper was going to be a tough road to hoe.....nope...I found a medium that could be rolled, crinkled, folded with little fuss and that was....plain ole 2" tan masking tape.
Yep..just cut the correct width, reduce the length, taper out the ends and all was needed was to stick the tape to the yard, roll in the edges....fluff up the center and roll in the back so as not to expose the sticky side...then press and crinkle into form.  Once done, you secure it in place with reef points, tied around the sail and yard.
Then I drew in the panel lines...making sure to follow the accents and curves of the folded material.   Once done....I sprayed on a coat of Testers Dullcoat to knock off the shine and to mimic the shade of paint I had already selected to match when I painted the paper sails.
 
For further security, I played a small coat of white glue along the edge of the sail and the yard to make sure it won't separate.
Yes I know....like I said earlier..try new things, experiment......  the final outcome is quite convincing and melds with the paper sails quite well....you'd never know unless I told you the secret....and now I did. 
 
Your Cutty Sark is wonderful, well executed and very clean.  If I were to suggest anything, it would be to remove those brass chain sections and get some Blackening and blacken the chain first.  It is a small touch that in the end has great benefits.  It lends to greater realism.
 
Your deck looks wonderful by the way.
 
Sweet job for sure.
 
Rob

Oh goodness...don't throw anything away.  One doesn't become adequately proficient if one gives up.  I've been building sailing ships(Mostly clippers) for over 50 years, so I wouldn't even make sucha comparison.  But if you will, permit me to be of assistance, if I may.  Out of necessity, I have developed many means to accommodate my goals...and much of that stems from a history of machining and fabrication experience.  My father taught me so long ago, that if anyone can make it(no matter what it is), you can make it.  So, instead of buying what I need, I either re-machine someone else's design to suit my needs or I simply make it myself.  
Your Constitution build is very good and you are accomplished yourself.  Don't belittle that...but add to it and always continue to further your skill set and imagination...by trying new things...new techniques....new processes.  You'll only gain priceless experience...to apply on the next project.
 
Rob

No secret really...and no problem sharing.  I did describe this method in my Great Republic Build log...but for expeditious purposes, I'll describe the process here.
 
First, you'll need to know the scale of your sails.....this means you'll need to know the size of the panels...generally they are 12~24" in width.  Then take your plain white copy paper...8"X11" general thickness.
Next you draw all your panel lines in scale on the paper...to include both sides.  Making sure your lines are as close to being over the top of each other as possible.  Once you have the *Master*
Go to your copier and make loads of double sided copies.
Now you have the foundation of your sail material.
Then all you have to do is cut out your desired sail from each of the copies.  This may mean you have to align the panel lines correctly for stay sails and jibs.  Main course and topsails will require the panel lines to run vertical.
 
Once the sail is cleanly cut...I use a sharp scalpel and metal rule...you need to then cut strips for all the banding and edging you will need from a plain sheet of paper.  Keep these also to scale...12~24".
Now you break out the white glue and glue on your top band....belly and reef bands.  I just spread the glue so lightly on the band..turn it over and hold it where it needs to be and press it against the sail.
You'll Leave enough on both edges outside the sail, hanging off....you'll cut these extra pieces off later.  Next you take some bands and glue and press them along the side edges. Again leaving some material over the edges.
 
One thing I failed to mention..prior to adding the banding you will have cut the bottom of the sail in its *curved* fashion....from sheet point to sheet point.  I have a good eye...so I simply draw the curve from middle to edge(sheet point* on both sides.
 
You will NOT be adding a foot band.
Remember at the scales we are talking about, 1/96~1/128, we don't need these details.  The main sail anatomy of panel lines and banding will suffice.  Once you add the bunt lines and any other sail control lines your period requires...your sails will look amazing.
 
Now, back to the sails....once the glue is dried, and it doesn't take long.  Take a sharp scissor and precisely cut off the extra banding along the sail edges.   Now you have the clean basic sail to begin working.
Sails need control points or clue and cringle points.  What I did was make extremely small wire eye bolts(Electric motor winding wire) and glued them on these places...and then cut patchwork points that I glued over the top of the shanks of the eyebolts....making sure to press then down snugly against the sail..pressing out any excess glue.  The patchwork is simply cut from the strips, previously used for the banding and cut to fit the angles of the clue corner of the sail .
 
 
I make clipper sails.....so I don't use rope along the edge of the sail.  At my scales it would be an unnecessary detail.
 
Next, I first use a dowel to begin the sail curving..by rolling the dowel along the sail in your hand....like rolling a cigarette.  Now this may take some practice...rolling the sail against the dowel between your fingertips.  Once a curve has been created, you want to *billow* the sail.  All I can say is go get a fondant/gumpaste metal ball rolling tool.  They are used to roll the edges of fondant flower pedals.  When this tool is used with its thin foam pad....you can roll along the bottom edge of the sail and literally create a *billow* effect in the paper.  So your sail doesn't simply have the curve to it, but an actual exaggerated billowed edge.  this technique can be somewhat technique sensitive..so don't overdue it and ruin your sail.  I practiced a bit on a plain piece of paper first.
 
Once you have the general curves and billows in your sail...you'll want to paint the sail...in what ever color you think best suits the era of sail you are creating.  A nice muslin tan works.  Now, apply the paint in even thin coats.  You want the panel lines to be muted and opaque...covered, but not so, much that they are completely painted over.  Paint both sides and let dry.  I place them under a hot lightbulb and they dry in no time.
 
Once dry, you can add your buntlines.  Mark out the distance and location lightly with a pencil and run your line through a pool of white glue,,,removing excess and then stretch the line across the sail from top to bottom in the desired location..press it against the sail.  when dry, you cut off the excess at the lower edge of the sail.  You can if desired bring the buntline all the way around the bottom of the sail and up the inside if that amount of detail is desired.
 
Now attaching the sail to the yard may cause some purists to try another method, but for me(And I'm a simple man), I lay a bead of glue(this time I use good wood glue) on the inner edge of the sail....the point of contact to the yard and I glue the sail to the yard.  I use alligator clips to aid me in this.  You want the sail to be on the top/front of the yard...facing out almost...because you want the sail to appear to be pulling away from the yard NOT just hanging down from the yard.  This technique works best (from my experience) when you are working off the model...
 
When dry....finish laying your buntlines and rig the sail...…..
 
In a nutshell...this is my technique.  Does it take some work, and finesse......YEP...but what doesn't?
 
Good luck
 
Rob
 
 

Even the jib sails are fully detailed with their hanks, haulyard and downhaul.
 
Same principle....paper, glue and little manipulation.
 
Rob

Remember, as stated before..the devils in the details and concerning reef points.  Most try to use thread..punching it through the sail...but thread in many amaller scales is waaay out of scale...plus thread *NEVER* wants to naturally hang across the billowing sail.  Am I right?
 
I developed a trick that works in a flash.  Just take a tan colored nylon bristle brush and cut the desired length of pieces that can be used as the  reef point.  Careful.....these guys can be invisible.  Take them and dip their cut and into a puddle of white glue and then press it against the reef band at the appropriate distance.   These nylon bristles look very convincing and they are uniform.
 
Here are a couple of pics to show.
 

I felt that way too....but I developed a method using paper that is so easy....it almost makes me feel I have *one-up* on everyone else.
Silk Span is a good medium, however it tends to be too translucent.  Almost transparent.  Just not what I was looking for.  Paper still resembles the natural translucency of cotton canvas, and is so forgiving.  Plus a bit of white glue and a sharp knife and ruler...and anyone can be a sail maker.
 
Rob

Yes indeed they can be.  You have to include panel lines and belly/reef and top banding...not to mention the reef points and clue and cringle rings.
 
Paper lets me build my sails with plain white glue and then I can roll and billow them using a cake makers fondant ball roller tool.  Pressed and rolled against a thin foam backing, This allows me to get the edges to *roll* making the sail *fill*.  Then they can be painted with what ever shade of tan you choose(Lightly...you don't want to totally cover up the inked in panel lines).  Next the bunt and leech lines can be added, along with the reef points.
 
A finished out sail can in of itself, be a small model all by itself if ample details are desired.
 
And once the paper is painted it holds its shape, especially if it's clued to the lower yard.
 
Thanks for the fine compliments.
 
Rob

Allan,
Another member brought this up some time ago, apparently the advertised thread count in fabric is not all that straight forward in what it is describing.  I find it confusing, but it may be that 500 or so may be the max available - for what we want it to mean.  If I read it correctly a 1000 count is actually 500 threads, with each thread being two yarns twisted up.  It is probably thicker.  The variety of cotton used - some have longer fibers - and how much fractionation and purification of just the long fibers before twisting up may enter in to it.

One thing to note.....when adding sails...to establish  viable realism...they must have billow and must have form to impress the notion they are active.  Billowed sails are active sails....  IMV, is left limp they give the vessel the appearance of *Drying sails* or as in a calm.  
 
Note in the image the drying of sails and how they are lifeless...sheets pulled up.
 
Rob

You sir are a master at your craft. I can only aspire to your level of artistic abilities.
Model sail making is an art in its self. 
If anyone is interested here is a youtube demonstration on silkspan sail making.
 

And currently I am adding set and furled sails to my Clipper, Glory of the Seas.  Paper is IMV convincing at this scale as well....1/96.
Here are several images.