bobandlucy

Hung and rigged the boats. I had a bear of a time belaying the lines, the forward ones especially, and the boats slipped downward a bit. The manual warns of obscuring the gun ports, but that is what I ended up with- if the guns were fired, it would blow the bottoms off the boats! Would still have happened if tightened up to the point where the blocks touched each other. . . I'm going to leave them alone. During this operation I got the magnifying headset I've been using caught in the main mast backstays- almost a disaster but I was able to get it free without breaking the lines or worse. This is not the first time that the headset has caused me problems. It's fine for working with small items on the tabletop, but not for rigging! I will be looking for an alternative to use for the next model.

The martingale stays at the bowsprit should have been with one attachment at the outer stop, and for the other side, at the inner stop. But it does not look bad to me, and I will not change it. I broke the striker three times already! There is a paper band added below the cap for added strength, and it looks like I still need to paint it.

Another instance where I seemed not to have absorbed the instructions- I added ratlines to the mainmast upper shrouds. The manual clearly states that they are not required. Also, I had forgot to add the mast hoops to the upper mast, so I cut them, spread them apart and inserted, then used a dot of CA and closed using tweezers. I rotated them so that the cuts would not appear all in a line. These are not shown installed in any of the pictures in the manual, including the picture of the finished model on the cover, but I cannot see that they could go in any other location.

I add these True Confessions as an aid to future builders of this model. 

Down to a couple of items, then touchup. I still haven't selected the next project. I've looked at USS Constitution and Rattlesnake, but am not sure that my skills are up to tackling either of those models. 

Overall, I'm very happy with the results, and can't quite believe I have pulled this one off (crossed fingers for the railings).

Installed the gaff. Things are getting quite tricky. . . not rushing to the finish, for once.

Installed the boom. Trickier than I would have thought. I passed on adding the "super detail" of a block and tackle for the falls, I did most of the other such details, but am having trouble working within the confines of the lines already installed. Next time. . .

Knocked off the rear gun port lids, no biggie.

I'm on the last couple pages of the manual- guess I'm almost done. Looking around for a suitable, low-cost brake to use in forming the PE railings. Also thinking about my next model. If I do a kit, and for cost related reasons I may make that choice, the USS Constitution is tempting. . . 

All three yards installed and trimmed. As some of you watching may have noticed, I secured the lines as each yard was added, going against the instructions, mentioned in several places. I did not do this intentionally, I can read- I suppose I was excited and wanted to see how it would look, and because the sight of them hanging ajar bothered me, and then I conveniently forgot. Doing this did cause problems, which fortunately I was able to overcome at the expense of time and a non-stop stream of expletives which I'm sure the cat was laughing at, in the next room. I also had two major unrelated accidents that required replacement of stays. However, in the end I was able to recover.

My first rope coil for belaying at the bitts. This took a while, as water alone was not sufficient to relax the line sufficiently. I will be refining my methods and hopefully the rest will be better,

Ian, yes, the main yard is held in place with a piece of wire as per the instructions. Thanks for posting the examples.

Tom (Ron?), thanks for the book information, it looks very well done. I will get a copy. I have been lent a first edition (1923) copy of the "Ship Model Builders Assistant," by Davis, which also has good drawings, but rather small. Seems a good reference book, but I have not really incorporated the methods given into this model thus far. I'll be looking for a copy of that as well.

Your own work is stunning. . . 

I have begun hanging the upper yard, it too is attached with wire, but does include a simplified parral.

I have struggled to do a neat job on this rigging even though it is simplified (this kit is part of an instructional series), so I may stick to doing things as presented  for the remainder of this project. But you guys, and David, have lit a new fire in me- I see the opportunities for improvement, and research is enjoyable to me (this is a lot more interesting than building codes and product research, and I enjoyed that aspect of my working life). I may do another kit before venturing into scratch building, if I do then I will certainly look to learn and incorporate more authentic methods into the work. If I scratch-build the next one, why then I'll be in the thick of it!

Thank you all for your interest. I look forward to moving to the next level.

Sincerely, Bob

2 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Bob,  re your mainyard, I see the sling, lifts, and braces; but should there also be a truss, or truss pendants (depending on the time period here)?

Thanks Ian. Truss/truss pendants not mentioned in the instructions, some of the rigging is indicated to be simplified- not sure what trusses are. . . 

All looks very nice, John- neat work!

Hung and rigged the main yard. Fun but nerve-wracking! Liked watching the interplay of the lines as they were tightened.

Standing rigging almost finished. The excitement builds. . .

David, I understand. I am not at all bashing this kit. Just relating some of my obsessive thinking, the bane of having been a specifications writer. . . at least this hobby gives me a productive outlet.

To the contrary, I highly recommend this kit and the rest of the series. I'm so glad I started with these. The instructions on modeling techniques have brought me pretty far in a relatively short period of time, and saved me from obsessing over the state of the world the last couple of years (mostly)!

Bob

Thanks, George and Gregg.

George, the language is in the instructions. 

I'm not real concerned, just kind of illustrating how I can take a simple issue and make it complicated. Also clarifying things for myself. Learning how to puzzle out such things. 

To paraphrase kit designer David A.,  "If it looks right, it is right. . ."

b

One thing I have really been struggling with is the size of the ropes. The manual, early on, gives sizes and model numbers only, but then as rigging becomes the main task, uses a variety of terms to describe line sizes: thin, thinner, light, thick, thicker, heavier, etc. 

Three sizes were supplied with the kit: 0.2 mm, 0.3 mm, and 0.45 mm- all in both dark brown and beige.

The manual also called for 0.6 mm beige for rigging the guns; this was not supplied. I ordered this size in both brown and beige from Syren, and replaced the other kit-supplied line as well.

I decided that four sizes are used throughout, but am not sure that is correct. The rigging plan attempts to show line weight by using double and single-line drawing, but I believe there are errors, such as the mast backstays shown the same size as the shrouds, which are called "heavier," while the backstays are identified as "thinner." I used 0.6 mm for the shrouds, based on appearance, the manuals' photos showing it around the deadeyes.

I am taking what clues I can from the photos, rigging plan, and deciding what makes sense considering the size of blocks involved.

This is what I am doing, for the most part:

0.2 mm = Thinner and light.

0.3 mm = Thin

0.45 mm = Thick

0.6 mm = Heavier and Thicker

The "thick" size may be used only once, for the vangs, and since this size rope is supplied in both brown and beige, I am led to believe that my approach is wrong, there should have been only three sizes as supplied, with the gun rigging being an outlier in beige only.

The manual also calls for "thread," for footropes, ratlines, lanyards, etc., which is defined as quilting thread in at least one instance, and I'm assuming that term is used consistently.

Anyway, I think I'm in too deep now to correct this, if it is indeed wrong- and really, nothing looks "bad." I think consistency is the thing from here on out. Just an example of how I drive myself (slightly) crazy!

Placed the upper shrouds. I must have miscounted, because I ran out of deadeyes and cannot complete the backstays. I'll do the ratlines, and then take a break while I wait for the mailing. I don't think it would be wise to go out of recommended order on the remaining rigging. Update: Oops, I see I had already posted similar above- I must be losing it. . . but this is with the foremast shrouds added.

From my reading, it seems that it's a matter of preference whether to glue/not glue masts to the model. The instructions do not mention doing so, and I have not. As the rigging is added, things seem to be getting more stable, and I'm thinking that it's part of the challenge- as well as being more accurate as far as how a real ship is put together. I did not glue the topmasts to the doubling either. I'd be interested in hearing other's thoughts on this issue.

Added the upper shrouds to the mainmast. This is actually my third attempt, and I think I'll keep it. If I were to do it again, I'd make sure that the seizings on the shroud pairs matched on each side of the mast.

Getting pretty good at seizing, at least off the model. Really improved when I began using a sewing needle, and when I learned to make sure that the lines remained parallel. Poor picture, I know. . .

For setting the height of the upper deadeyes, I used the method linked by Carlos in his post above.

Added the lower stays and began placing the deadeyes for the upper shrouds.

Upper shroud futtocks and ratlines. The ratlines are hard to place with my elbow off the table, as my hand shake more. I can see things getting more difficult higher up. I will try stacking boards for support.

Just found this thread. Amazing! Good job.

Bob

Finished the windlass mechanism. Do the dishes now? Or. . . 

Thank you, David and Gary! And thanks to Carlo for the link. I'll remember that.

I kept forgetting to finish the windlass. Some of the mechanism is to be scratch-made. I added the pawl, and began work on the crosshead. The dishes will have to wait. .  .

For the crosshead, I glued some basswood planking scrap over 1/16" square stock, with an overhang at each end. Came out pretty nice.

Finished the second attempt at the lower shrouds/deadeyes, and ratlines. Still not perfect, but much, much better.

The foremast is really parallel to the funnel, for some reason it appears otherwise in the pictures- I had to go check again! The mainmast needs a little less rake, but will be corrected when I add the stays.

I ordered more of the larger diameter Syren line, I'll need it for the stays, and may leave things alone for a couple of days. Maybe do the dishes or something like that. . .

Very interesting project! And like you, although I became proficient in AutoCad at work as a designer, I always missed the days of drafting on paper- so much more satisfying somehow. . .

Gregg, the backdrop is just an ordinary index card.

I moved on to the shrouds/upper deadeyes for the main mast. The deadeyes came out even higher than for the fore mast.

I ripped the mainmast rigging out. Second try on the first two shrouds was closer to design. Deadeyes are still not aligned perfectly, but the distance between upper and lower deadeyes is closer to plan. When I get these and the ratlines finished, I will rip out the work on the foremast and redo. I'll end up scrapping some hours of work, but any time in the shop is quality time, and I won't regret the loss in time as much as the remorse I know I would feel not having fixed this, when the model is finished.

Installed the foremast shrouds. Jumped ahead a little and did the ratlines on one side as well. As you can see, my upper deadeyes did not fall in a straight line (the other side is better), and are perhaps a bit higher than design, due to my measuring length of the shrouds from the outer end of the loop at the mast, rather than from the seizing. I also ended up with a "crossing" at the top- if I had noticed this, I would have reversed the position of the shroud pairs. However, this was all very difficult- I will accept the results!

Gregg, the eyebolts are 1/32" inside eye, bent around a drill bit held in vise.

b

Bowsprit rigging. Must remember to breathe. . . 

Completed fitting the yards (except for the foot ropes), using my homemade eyebolts. I did find some 26 gauge half-hard brass wire and am using that. I couldn't be happier with these yards- this is really delicate work, and I think this is the best I can do at this point.