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DocBlake

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  1. Thanks, guys,

     

    Mike:  The yellowheart can be a bit splintery, but I think it can work for smaller parts. I think the color is perfect for the Morgan's bulwark planking!

     

    Don:  I use East Indian rosewood, and select for pieces that are dark brown to purplish-black in color..  Even lighter pieces will age to a dark, dark brown.  The pores are actually quite small and the grain pattern hardly noticeable if the color isn't terribly variegated.

     

    Scott:  Yep!  The planking "fans out" after the final bulkead.  The hull measurement there is significantly smaller than at the absolute stern, hence the need for a couple of stealers.  I have to decide where to put them, but I suspect they'll be in the lowest of the three planking belts.

  2. I purchased the Model Shipways CD that contains Dr. Feldman's original book on building the AVS (as well as "Fair American and another ship).  Feldman's model is 3/8" scale, but I found it very useful in building my AVS in 1/48.  It's worth the price for all the how-to's for scratch building this model.  Here's a link:

     

    http://www.seaways.com/CAFCD.html

  3. Hi Pamela! 

     

      I love the idea of this model in the monstrous 1/24 scale!  My Battle Station is 1/24 and the potential for detailing his huge.  My ultimate plan is to scratch-build the "Hannah" in that scale.  I'll be following along.

     

    As to wood, holly for decking, rosewood for hatch coamings and some deck furniture, boxwood or yellow heart and bloodwood for bulwark plankings all can work.  Cherry is a nice wood to work with also.  I can't wait to see how this one comes out.  Good luck and have fun!

  4. This ship has a very odd shaped hull.  I drew lines for three bands of planking.  At the bow, the hull measurement is significantly less than amidships.  This is fairly typical.   Using tapering and edge-bending with heat, I should be able to fit all the planks without any trop planks.  The stern is different.  At the level of the last bulkhead - right where the stern post is, the hull measurement is only slightly (about 1/4") longer than amidships!  But from there to the stern, the hull "flares" quite a bit.  It will take at least one and maybe two stealers to accommodate the widening, but they won't be very long!  We'll see how it goes.

    post-3900-0-71269800-1476729039_thumb.jpg

    post-3900-0-31545100-1476729054_thumb.jpg

  5. I finished seven of the full frames, including 2 pairs of gunport frames.  They have a recess for framing the ports in.  The frames on the Lauck Street AVS :Patrick Henry", which I just finished, had bevel lines on the frame drawing that you rubber cemented to the glued up frame.  A Dremel tool made quick work of beveling the frames off the model.  The final fairing of the hull was pretty easy, both inside and out.  The Fair American has no bevel lines.  My plan is to smooth the inner surface of the frames pretty well before installing them, while leaving the smoothing of the outside surface to happen as the outer hull is faired.

    post-3900-0-67173700-1476298512_thumb.jpg

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