DocBlake

Looking good, Elijah.

I formed the main rails out of basswood sheets and stained them with Fiebing's black leather dye.  They got 3 coats of poly and I epoxied them in place.

Looking good, Elijah.

Hi Bob, how is it going with the build?
putting together same thing, partially with boxwood.

I have come up with a shaping system. Work bow to stern. I have nearly finished the very end of the bow on the starboard side. I came up with this cool set up for aligning my template. I will need to fill some over sanded areas when I'm done!



Anyway, back to sanding! Until next time!
 
Edit: Oops, square photos ?

I formed the main rails out of basswood sheets and stained them with Fiebing's black leather dye.  They got 3 coats of poly and I epoxied them in place.

I formed the main rails out of basswood sheets and stained them with Fiebing's black leather dye.  They got 3 coats of poly and I epoxied them in place.

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Thanks, Brian and all for the "likes"
 
Here is the binnacle.  This is similar to Dr. Feldman's original version as well as the MS version from their kit plans.  the top needs 2 more coats of poly, and the hardware needs a coat of Testor's DullCote to knock off the shine.

Back in the shipyard.  I cut the scuppers into the inboard planking, then painted the inside of the sweep ports and gun ports with a sample of Benjamin Moore paint I had that matched the red heart fairly well.  I did add some Dark Vintage Maple TransTint water soluble dye to darken it a little. The deck, planking and framing were given 3 coats of poly.  I'm getting closer to the end.  The binnacle is nearly done (pictures to come).  Then all that's left are the rudder, the ship's wheel, the catheads and swivel gun supports, the guns themselves and the cabin roof framing and planking.  Did I say "nearly done"?

I didn't want to paint the 3-D printed windlass to look like wood, so I made my own out of boxwood and rosewood.  I will keep the ship's wheel, though.  I'll paint it to look like varnished mahogany.

I formed the main rails out of basswood sheets and stained them with Fiebing's black leather dye.  They got 3 coats of poly and I epoxied them in place.

I formed the main rails out of basswood sheets and stained them with Fiebing's black leather dye.  They got 3 coats of poly and I epoxied them in place.

I formed the main rails out of basswood sheets and stained them with Fiebing's black leather dye.  They got 3 coats of poly and I epoxied them in place.

Thanks, David!
 
I decided to keep the stock ship's wheel.  I played around with scratch building a wheel, but nearly every technique I found required a milling machine. The shipyard has a formal request for one submitted to the Admiralty, but so far no word!
 
I painted the wheel "Milwaukee Road Boxcar Red" which is a pretty good approximation of varnished mahogany.  I may stick with the stock transom lights also. Am I getting a little lazy, or just anxious to finish the model?

Very nice job so far. This is a fun build. Enjoy!

Thanks, guys!
 
John:  I'm anxious to see you back at work on your PH as well posting further progress on Revenge.
 
Mike:  Your model was the trailblazer, and you built it straight out of the box.  It's a great model!  Don't sell it short. I learned a lot from your build.   In fact, I am thinking of building the LSS Halifax straight from the box, also.  There is great appeal in the more "monochromatic" look of these craftsman kits.  Many of the timbering kits out there (current LSS products, Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights) are all of one species of wood, and original admiralty models were often that way also.

Thanks, guys!
 
John:  I'm anxious to see you back at work on your PH as well posting further progress on Revenge.
 
Mike:  Your model was the trailblazer, and you built it straight out of the box.  It's a great model!  Don't sell it short. I learned a lot from your build.   In fact, I am thinking of building the LSS Halifax straight from the box, also.  There is great appeal in the more "monochromatic" look of these craftsman kits.  Many of the timbering kits out there (current LSS products, Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights) are all of one species of wood, and original admiralty models were often that way also.

There is always more than one way to skin a cat.
 
I build period furniture as a hobby also.  18th century cabinetry often had "pegged" mortise and tenon joints to strengthen construction.  They were also frequently square instead of round.  How to easily fit a square peg into a round hole?  You could use a mortising machine with a drill and square chisel, but since furniture parts can be very large, many times the part wouldn't fit on the mortiser's work surface.  I came up with an easy solution.
 
I took a 1/4" square piece of steel bar and grinded the bottom into a 1/4" diameter round.  I left the bulk of the bar square.  I drill a 1/4" hole where the peg will be and insert the rounded bottom into the hole.  Than brings the squared "shoulders" of the bar right to the wood's surface.  A couple of raps with a hammer and the round hole is now square.  it has to be deep enough to hold a piece of peg material 1/4" square, so the steel bar is pretty deep into the wood and the fit is very tight.  It takes a pair of pliers and some rapping with  a hammer to free the bar.  A 1/4" peg is glued into the hole and cut with a flush cutting saw when the glue dried.  The result is a nice clean square peg in what was once a round hole.  The pegs aren't really structural, but they look good.  When I needed to make round holes square on the windlass, I used the same principle in miniature.
 
I've actually adapted a few techniques I use building full size furniture to model work.  The principles are the same; only the scale is different!

There is always more than one way to skin a cat.
 
I build period furniture as a hobby also.  18th century cabinetry often had "pegged" mortise and tenon joints to strengthen construction.  They were also frequently square instead of round.  How to easily fit a square peg into a round hole?  You could use a mortising machine with a drill and square chisel, but since furniture parts can be very large, many times the part wouldn't fit on the mortiser's work surface.  I came up with an easy solution.
 
I took a 1/4" square piece of steel bar and grinded the bottom into a 1/4" diameter round.  I left the bulk of the bar square.  I drill a 1/4" hole where the peg will be and insert the rounded bottom into the hole.  Than brings the squared "shoulders" of the bar right to the wood's surface.  A couple of raps with a hammer and the round hole is now square.  it has to be deep enough to hold a piece of peg material 1/4" square, so the steel bar is pretty deep into the wood and the fit is very tight.  It takes a pair of pliers and some rapping with  a hammer to free the bar.  A 1/4" peg is glued into the hole and cut with a flush cutting saw when the glue dried.  The result is a nice clean square peg in what was once a round hole.  The pegs aren't really structural, but they look good.  When I needed to make round holes square on the windlass, I used the same principle in miniature.
 
I've actually adapted a few techniques I use building full size furniture to model work.  The principles are the same; only the scale is different!

Great job on the long boat, Ryland!
 
I've scratch built two windlasses, and I used this technique for both.  My most recent, for the AVS , is in 1/32 scale.  The holes in the windlass are drilled with a 1/16" bit.  I then took a 10d finishing nail and filed the four sides of the tip flat and sharp.  Insert the tip into the round holes, being careful to align the square tip properly.  A couple of taps with a miniature hammer and the round hole is square.  It works like a charm and takes just a couple of minutes to do all the holes.

Great job on the long boat, Ryland!
 
I've scratch built two windlasses, and I used this technique for both.  My most recent, for the AVS , is in 1/32 scale.  The holes in the windlass are drilled with a 1/16" bit.  I then took a 10d finishing nail and filed the four sides of the tip flat and sharp.  Insert the tip into the round holes, being careful to align the square tip properly.  A couple of taps with a miniature hammer and the round hole is square.  It works like a charm and takes just a couple of minutes to do all the holes.

Thanks, guys!
 
John:  I'm anxious to see you back at work on your PH as well posting further progress on Revenge.
 
Mike:  Your model was the trailblazer, and you built it straight out of the box.  It's a great model!  Don't sell it short. I learned a lot from your build.   In fact, I am thinking of building the LSS Halifax straight from the box, also.  There is great appeal in the more "monochromatic" look of these craftsman kits.  Many of the timbering kits out there (current LSS products, Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights) are all of one species of wood, and original admiralty models were often that way also.

Great job on the long boat, Ryland!
 
I've scratch built two windlasses, and I used this technique for both.  My most recent, for the AVS , is in 1/32 scale.  The holes in the windlass are drilled with a 1/16" bit.  I then took a 10d finishing nail and filed the four sides of the tip flat and sharp.  Insert the tip into the round holes, being careful to align the square tip properly.  A couple of taps with a miniature hammer and the round hole is square.  It works like a charm and takes just a couple of minutes to do all the holes.

Great job on the long boat, Ryland!
 
I've scratch built two windlasses, and I used this technique for both.  My most recent, for the AVS , is in 1/32 scale.  The holes in the windlass are drilled with a 1/16" bit.  I then took a 10d finishing nail and filed the four sides of the tip flat and sharp.  Insert the tip into the round holes, being careful to align the square tip properly.  A couple of taps with a miniature hammer and the round hole is square.  It works like a charm and takes just a couple of minutes to do all the holes.