rfolsom
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Everything posted by rfolsom
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Bottom piece with outline of rail; grain flows horizontally...
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Definitely not alone Nenad... More tangents; The topgallent rail around the curve of the stern, will have to be fabricated; In my build, this rail is 1/16" thick. I am experimenting with 1/32" basswood sheets, laminated together to create a cross-grained effect; otherwise the piece would just fall apart...
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My false deck was made of 1/32" basswood sheet, planked with 1/32" x 1/16" basswood strips. (at this scale of 1:76.8, 1/16" translates to 4.8 inches, awfully darn close to the actual ships plank width of 5 inches....)
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One good thing about this kit (I have the same one from the 70's) is that the bulkheads and hull curvature all line up nicely with Campbell's plans, so when you receive the plans, you should be able to copy and enlarge the actual main deck area, and fit it directly onto the ship. Here is a picture of my original template plan mounted on thick craft paper (a little battered and bent now) that I used in cutting the false deck, and measuring all deckhouse/hatch coamings, mast holes, waterways, margin plank with nibbing, etc. The centerline and all section lines were hand drawn on the plan, and transferred to the inside of the actual ship's bulwarks and bulkheads for reference.
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Also, do you have an accurate set of plans? (Campbell or Longridge) The Billings plans might as well be kindergarden scrap material....
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Keith; If you decide to remove these bulky stanchions, I don't believe you'll need much reinforcement for the bulwarks. My 1/32" bulwarks survived, and were reinforced by wire stanchions, rails, trimwork and finally by the topgallent rail, which I'll post soon,,
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Thanks, Larry; Good to see your excellent posts again; I guess this is why I jump around between these builds.... Seems like my good friend Nenad is always there, right, Nenad? Cheers to Everyone . ~Bob
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All these will need to be cut out, and replaced if you want even a semi-accurate representation of the Cutty Sark. I had to do it with my kit; and there's no way around it..
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Keith; always look 2 months ahead in the build, especially with these Billing's kits. They will have you put stanchions the size of cars on your deck before you realize it... ~Bob
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Great work so far; now I don't feel so bad putting a build on hold for a month or two at a time... What scale is your Mantua Victory? I may be interested (I need another build like I need a hole in the head, but I have a problem.... ) ....And a warm welcome to the Niagara Club! ~Bob (rfolsom)
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Thanks for looking in again and the kind words, Brian; Keith; Nice build... I'm a ways away from the winches and pumps, but still I ponder them from time to time (How could these be scratch-built? Do I buy them? If so, what's the best value and most accurate?) I believe when I acquire adequate soldering equipment, and practice enough to get some sort of technique down, I'll make the decision to scratch or purchase...
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Welcome to the CS fleet! Can't wait to see some pictures... ~Bob
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Hello, Larry, planking is looking good. Good to see everyone back. I am working on my Cutty Sark for the moment, so please don't hate me..
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Thanks,David, for the input; right now, I don't have the means to augment my soldering equipment; so here I sit.... Thank you for your input, though.. ~Bob.
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...and more fun.. I am not sure how to strop my 2mm deadeyes; (representing 6 to 7 inch in the real world; but I'm trying to strop the larger ones...) The rice grains are: Jasmine on the left; Basmati on the right...
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The inside bulwarks are marked and painted white in the areas where the ovals will be after the affixation of the paneling strips, the pre-stained main rails masked off, and the paneling strips simultaneously fine-tuned.
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Ok, so back to the white paneling strips... Even though I started these things almost 8 months ago, I am still working on them. I have four strips: The two aft, with 23 panels apiece, and the two forward with fifteen panels apiece. There are two "interface panels" (one on each side) to bring the total panel count up to 78. I have been dissatisfied with most of the initial oval cutouts, so my method has been to randomly take a strip (calmly, at a relaxing point in the evening) and a small flat file and needle file, and start at one end, shaping each oval in turn. These are somewhat small, so by the time I get to the end of one strip, I'm not seeing as straight as I should... I will then put everything away, and the next night repeat the process. This is about the fifth night, and the strips are looking better. (there will still need to be panels cut out and remade, but my process seems to make things better with each pass). You can see the pencil pointing out some shaping that needs done on this particular panel, and how the ovals vary; I am attempting to minimize the variance by making multiple passes on each strip. The vertical uprights, which pop off constantly during shaping, will be final sanded flush before affixing the strips to the inside of the bulwarks.
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Nenad; When I first bought this kit off of ebay, as no fittings were included, I ordered a bunch of deadeyes, blocks, and belaying pins from Model Expo. The two sizes of deadeyes should be sufficient. (I may need more). It's just going to take a lot of time stropping, painting, and adding the white strips to these things...
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Thanks for the input; black deadeyes it shall be....
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Soon it will be time to "mass produce" deadeyes; Over seventy of these assemblies. I am not sure if I should paint them black (as the older photos show) or leave them natural (per the current restoration). Any thoughts, CS Fleet? ~Bob
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
rfolsom replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Yes, I believe I could cut my plates quicker; but I was unable to develop a method of riveting them in multiple quantities, so each plate was riveted individually.. I'll look into your technique the next time I need to copper... (My other current build, the Niagara, has no copper) -
Cutty Sark by NenadM
rfolsom replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I'm still amazed at your progress with the plating... If not 16 hour days, maybe 8 hours? Maybe hired help? Santa's Elves? Looks great by the way... ~Bob -
Main rail on the starboard side is stained; hard to tell with the masking tape "drop cloths". Still hope to get everything stained, and the white panes white, before installing the augmentation strips. ~Bob
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Next up; sanding and staining....
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