rfolsom
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Everything posted by rfolsom
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My sister brought up my late Father's lathe; It's still missing pieces, the belts have disintegrated, and it's still in the "drill press" mode.. I have no idea how to turn metal (or wood) on a lathe, but I will learn. I plan on dismantling and restoring this Unimat lathe, and giving it another 50 years of work! ~Bob
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Ask yourself one question: "Do I have a sick mind"??!!
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I found a plastic plaque in high school that I gave to my English teacher; who kept a very untidy desk. (brilliant teacher, however) It read: "A clean desk is a sign of a sick mind". He displayed it proudly on the front of his desk for the entire school year...
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Wow, this is definitely my version of a birthday cake!! (I'm not too fond of sweets). But I Love meat! Thanks, Nenad!
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Thanks, Popeye and Keith; I do plan on making a deadeye spacer when rigging the shroulds; I might set up a test to see if these white strips are necessary; I don't want to be lazy, but it sure would save lots of time...
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Good to see you around again, my friend; I hope you and all your loved ones are doing well after your loss. ~Bob
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I haven't pulled out my plans regarding the ladders, but remember this ship was only built (hastily) for one specific battle (of Lake Erie) in mind at the time. Most of us in the Niagara Club will spend more time building our models than the original shipbuilders did, with the original ships..
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Hull looks great, guns look great; I don't spend alot of my time (now) looking at the Niagara builds, because I'm trying to focus on the C. Sark. But, inevitably, with your fine build and the others, I'll do the teeter-totter once again...
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One of the deadeye tests I'd like to do is determine if the white strops are necessary; If they can be seen, they are necessary! Otherwise, I think they make everything a little more out of scale....
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However, I did buy a used ps3 two months ago off of ebay for $185; I get killed too fast with COD3, so I go for Skyrim and GTA4.
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I have Call of Duty III for the ps3, but my ps3 died (blue light of death) around 2009. (Only 2 years old at the time, and I paid $600 for the thing!) I was able to "semi-ressurect" the console by tearing it apart and reflowing the BGA solder around the CPU and GPU with a heat gun. It would last a month and then fail again. If I had still worked for the circuit board manufacturing company I did before, I probably could have sent the motherboard through the Heller reflow oven and it would have been fixed. I also think that I could have reproduced the scrollwork on the Cutty Sark using photo lithography and copper etching, but I don't work there anymore, and hindsight is always 20/20.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
rfolsom replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
"Well, Young Man, you'd better get your priorities straight!!" Just kidding... I hope your extra work brings you extra wealth and happiness; and not extra stress.. Just remember, If we don't see some sort of updates, you'll be nagged at from time to time!! "Don't Give Up the Ship" -Battle flag of the USS Niagara, 1813- 4,152 replies
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- tehnodidakta
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Agreed, Nenad! Always make tests! I have a test cathead that I hope to finalize soon, so they can be installed and the topgallant rail shortly thereafter. But still trying to think ahead, will the catheads snap off after catching on a piece of clothing as I'm reaching around the ship? I won't install the whisker booms until well into the rigging, so I don't think so. As far as bouncing, I think I do it more than a rubber ball, and it would make those viewing my log very confused, but it is interesting for me...
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Yes, my logic is like this: If A connects to B connects to C connects to... ad infinitum Don't learn A 100% and be new to B, and nothing else beyond. Learn A 50%, B 25% and see C.... Progress to A 75%, B 50%, C 25%, and then start looking at D... ...and so on.
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Not rushing, Nenad.. Curious, definitely, but as each assembly, and process, is related to each other in a complex system like this, with even the most accurate plans available still needing to be shrunk to 1:76.8, I try to plan ahead to foresee any possible setbacks.. (i.e. when wiring deadeyes, I am thinking "hmmm.... will these holes accept the proper diameter of lanyard ropes without modification? Will the black paint block the holes?" (No, I'm going to use a Sharpie!!) Better to find out now, as opposed to having 75+ plus happily mounted deadeyes, and then starting your rigging, and going "OH %&*T!!" Cautious, more than Curious...
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I think I will have to do a deadeye rigging test soon. The last rigging I did was with the plastic kits (Revell Cutty, Connie, and Monogram? Santa Maria) between the ages of 9 and 14. (just a couple years back ) However, none of these had actual deadeye lanyard rigging, as these were always molded in one piece. I also plan on pulling out my incomplete AL Swift (first wooden model, and first adult-built ship model, started about 6 years ago) and finishing it to get experience with rigging once again. 8 deadeyes as opposed to 75+... and that's just the lower shrouds of the Cutty Sark...
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
rfolsom replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nenad; I'm not sure what you mean by "rooling" -
Good way to organize...
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I wanted to finish wiring these guys tonight; I did 25 last night, and my fingers were very sore tonight; I stopped after about 15. (I held the wire with pliers, but did the twisting with my fingers; I thought I'd destroy the wooden deadeyes using two pliers..) Back to the catheads...
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...and yes, their little heads are all askew, they'll be lined up when painted..
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Again, no topgallant rail installed, but I had to check out how several of the deadeye assemblies looked in situ. These deadeyes are "naked"; they will be painted black with white bands (strops) added, and their posts painted white after affixing. This is a picture of the port mainmast area, with the first five shroud deadeyes temporarily in position. It's hard to tell from this photo, but each deadeye post is angled slightly differently to follow the run of the shrouds and stays when finally rigged. All holes are pre-drilled; you can see several belaying pin holes forward of the rightmost deadeye, (foreward is to the right) and running along the perimeter of the main rail. Several larger holes in the main rail on the left of the picture are for the deadeye assemblies for the main backstays.
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Next I need to finalize where to cut my bulwarks for the catheads, so I can finally test my prototype(s) on the actual deck. I think I'll move my two little marks to line up with the frame end... This photo shows a rail, but it's not the topgallant rail, just the "shim" rail I installed all along the ship to even everything up...
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Did a little more cathead testing; Keith, your theory on the white inner part definitely makes practical sense; and I've seen many pictures depicting these in this scheme. (but also I've seem some all black). On my test cat I tried a coat of white, and fiddled with the holding plate, (made of aluminum). This is a test, ONLY a test, so the paint and details will not (hopefully!) look like this on the real cathead, mounted to the real ship...
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That's a good idea, Nenad; actually, during my first wooden build, (AL's Swift) I threaded my deadeye assemblies onto a needle to keep track of them. (All eight of them...)
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