Gregory

Do you have the plans? Mamoli kits do not have a separate instruction book. All the instructions are written on the plans.

Just thinking out loud, I would think steps on the port side would make sense..😁

Of course not. They wouldn't have been on the actual ship.😁 Very nice work!

I really like the way you removed the foc'sl deck framing. Makes a lot of sense. I will be using that idea..

Just curious why you think so?

Agree particularly with number 2. The Minwax & Varathane stains I am familiar have a consistency similar to mineral spirits. Unlike paint, there is no obvious build up on the surface of the wood. How would a layer of anything, measured in microns, appear out of scale?

Yes, but I'm not sure it's necessary depending on how you go about fabricating. I didn't document my method very well, but I could come up with something if you are interested. I will eventually be doing it with my rattlesnake, but can't say how far in the future that might be.

You might consider card. It really lends itself to simple shapes like this. I used black card, but it takes paint very well so the color of the stock is not that important.

I would use sanding dust and satin varnish. White PVA and sanding dust would be a 2nd choice.

An anomaly that has arisen after 260 years?

Pintle and gudgeon.

You might already have this Bruce, but just in case.. Of course, it will not be a substitute for the actual scantlings.

Hard to call it a rip off when the seller refunded and is shipping another kit.. Appears to be an honest mistake that was quickly corrected.

My progress has really been hit and miss the last three months, and I seem to have trouble reaching a point where I think a log update is worthwhile. Anyway, here goes. To simplify the gun port and oar port framing, I cut out these frames to establish location. Doing it with the laser really simplifies uniformity. I put a plank in place to establish the sheer, and am using this for the initial placing of the gun and oar ports. All the ports had not been established in this image. I am not following the plans precisely, however I am going for a balanced look with the spacing. My plan is to get some solidity to the upper body before before continuing the lower planking, because I keep breaking the bulkhead extensions, particularly on the quarterdeck, which leads me to some of the details I have been working on there. I built the capstan from the Syren kit for Winchelsea a couple of years ago. At the time, it was to be used for my Resolution build, which has stalled due to some rigging issues. I had the 1:48 Rattlesnake build in mind at the time, so the Syren kit was still an option I was considering. The Syren cherry kit ( upper part ) in place on my Resolution. I opted to use the drawings from Winchelsea and make a capstan from pear, this being the result. Probably not the final version, as looking at my pictures makes me want to try to improve the detail. The grating was made from a Syren cherry kit. Once again I used the Winchelsea drawings. This time to make a ladder. One of those little touches that won't have much visibility when all is said and done. That's all for now. Thanks for looking in.

Here is a contemporary model of a 20 gun ship of 1730. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66398 Another from 1715.. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66367 There seems to be enough variation to not rule out quarter galleries.

A lot of room to come out ahead of the original painting.

Indeed. I think it's really trivial, and a matter of what suits the builder. I'm thinking I will build with no overhang inboard on the quarterdeck, While allowing some on the gun deck.

A little late to the party, but doesn't this indicate there is a little overhang outboard but not inboard? I still would not consider this the final word since this part of the plans is conjecture and not shown in the NMM drawings.

Syren is at the top of my list, but Crafty Sailor has blocks that look a lot like the ones at Model Expo.

What is your goal in staining? Alcohol based leather dyes like Fiebing's stain wood ( and everything else) very well. I would experiment with dilution before using full strength. A little goes a long way. I haven't noticed any raised grain when I have used it.

With extra points if it's banned in California.

It also has a section on " The British Naval Cutter " I believe Chuck mentioned it was one of his references when designing Cheerful. It's about as fore-and -aft as you can get.

Maybe a little late for this go-round, but having heard from builders in the past about the challenges of mounting pin rails, I came up with a little idea that has worked well for me. I put a little brace under the back of the rail. It gives a larger surface for mounting to the gunwales, and the modification is virtually invisible once in place on the ship.

Thanks a lot for this! I bookmarked it for future reference.. It's unfortunate that a lot of kits provide gratings that scale to 6" openings or bigger, and a beginning kit builder may not have the tools to make their own, or be inclined to spend a lot on aftermarket stuff.. Here is a little grate work I'm doing for my Rattlesnake. This is version 1. Made up from scratch cherry coamings, and the grating is made from a Syren boxwood grating kit. I'm thinking of trying to make the grating from pear to get a little more contrast.

I agree this is a great book to have, but for the cutter Rigging Period-Fore-and-Aft Craft might be a little more helpful.