Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I don’t have an illustration handy, but consider clamping (really tight) between a couple of pieces of wood or aluminum, exposing the area to be trimmed, and trim away. -
I meant to add that you should taper the squaring, and yes, a little 'tapping' with hammer might be necessary.
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Easy. Take an appropriate size nail. Square off the end with file/sander. Push it into a pilot hole.
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There was no point in having gun port lids on a weather deck. In heavy seas, they would have hindered the clearing of water from the deck.
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Very nice. What sizes will you be offering?
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Interesting subject. The sails on the museum model look really good.
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And... The results are?😁 FWIW, Here's my version.
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If y If you had a choice between mahogany or walnut, which is what michael101 asked about, which would you choose?
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My experience is that mahogany tends to be less brittle than walnut.
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We have a forum where members have discussed their CAD, 3D printing and similar endeavors. CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software - Model Ship World™ There are a lot of resources out there for getting custom work done. Just Google " 3d printing services " and " photo etching services " . There are probably other online groups dedicated to those endeavors also. It may not be too late. Check out Fusion 360 .. It's free for hobbyist. This guy has some really great tutorials for beginners. Product Design Online If you use a 3rd party 3D printing service you can probably save a lot by having 3D drawings ready to go. For photo etching, 2D should be all you need.
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That is as good as any planking job I have ever seen.. Better than most. It would serve as a great tutorial for Sphinx and any number of other kits.
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I knew what was being said. Is there something wrong with me?
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Working with blackend brass.
Gregory replied to SiriusVoyager's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
What is your method for annealing the brass? If you are heating it with a torch, you might consider treating it with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. It gives a nice dark finish that doesn't come off easily. -
Good point. This can be distracting on an otherwise excellent model when the knots scale to something about tennis ball size or bigger. Ratlines on Victory. Lees says ratlines are 1.75" circumference. About .5" diameter. This scales to .01" at 1:48. At 1:64 its close to .008" The smallest rope at Ropes of Scale is .009, so this would be a good match at 1:48. Syren has .008 and .012. At smaller scales you are looking at single strand thread to get a reasonable scale match. This is a good option. One might also consider just glueing the ratline to the shroud. A little blob of glue will look like a knot.
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Help with tapering
Gregory replied to N1ckel's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I believe the 1/2 rule has a basis in actual practice. However, if you follow the procedures we have discussed, it probably will never be an issue. -
They show up on rigs from the 17th century to present. It is my understanding they do the same work as a double, but their shape is better suited for some applications. They are often used in the vangs for gaff rigs. Here is one in a back stay for Cheerful.
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Help with tapering
Gregory replied to N1ckel's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good answers from Johnny and Dziadeczek. Just to clarify, here is a contemporary ' expansion drawing. This is Podargus (1808) This shows the actual shape of the planks laid out flat. This illustrates why Chuck's bending method results in the planks laying flat against the bulkheads -
Help with tapering
Gregory replied to N1ckel's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Measure the green line with a piece of string. -
Help with tapering
Gregory replied to N1ckel's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
A good start might be to read about setting up the garboard. The half hull planking project is a good reference for establishing the garboard and planking in general. I borrowed this image from the Half Hull Project. The blue area is the garboard. The red tick marks show the width and number of planks at a mid-ship bulkhead. In this case there are ten. Which may or may not be the actual number of planks. I am just trying to illustrate. You then have to measure the distance indicated by the green line. This is the space available for the same ten planks at the bow/stem. Lets say that the planks are 4mm wide, so the area at the red tick marks would be 40mm. Lets say the green line measures 30mm. Divide 30 by 10 and you have 3mm. So, your planks need to taper from 4mm at mid ship to 3mm at the bow. Chances are you won't have the same easy measurements, but I hope the illustration helps.
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The iridescence is probably due to the oil content, which is common in tropical hardwoods. You might try rubbing with mineral spirits to help reduce the shine.
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On a manufacturing level , something like weight per foot might be a standard. I really don't think they are counting twists. Just a guess..
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It would vary with the size of the rope and the size of the yarns. When laying up rope the idea is for the yarns to be twisted as tight as possible without crinkling the rope. This is true for full size or scale rope. The number of twists per foot will be what you have when the rope looks good.
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Those cannon are superb! The frieze painting really sets your model apart.
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I think a pennant would be a nice touch.. The signal flags might be a distraction IMO.
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Jeff, Putting oil based poly over acrylic is what Woodartist asked about. So it sounds like you think it should be OK.
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