Peanut6

I don't recognize that type of trout, the marking and top fin configuration is throwing me off, what are they?  Two that size makes for some good eating.  Grandma got me into really enjoying grilled trout broken up over a big salad, man that was good, even if I had to harvest the salad fix'ns from the garden (which of course made the meal all the better).  Fishing with Grandpa, we always got Mac's (aka Mackinaw or Lake Trout), German Browns, Rainbows, Brooks and what we called Natives.  Oh, and the ship is looking pretty good also.  

Sand, fill, sand, fill, repeat.  IMHO, it's looking far better than mine did at this stage, nice job.  Since your painting your hull, you won't run into the issues I did since I stained mine (that whole stainable filler issue).  If you were reading my build log, I'm guessing you may have missed the section where I talked about my problems with the planking to transom post transition.  The lip you're showing in the last picture was a major problem for me.  Because I don't have magic metal bending skills nor have about 8 hands to hold everything in place, getting the gudgeons to stay in the right place for pilot hole marking was a beast and I still really messed mine up even after I sanded things down.  But the final error was still on me after getting the desired material transitioning/condition, if you know what I mean.  I tried to explain my FUBAR in my build log.  Please give it a read and don't hesitate to ask for any clarification.  I would hate for you, or anybody, to go thru what I did.     

Demostenes, welcome aboard.  Just to let you know, you've just made over 43,000 new friends.  Many who will be very eager to help you with any and all issues, questions or problems you may face during your build(s), all you have to do is ask.  You shouldn't be intimidated by the wonderful work you have seen here.  You need to know that some of the members here are world class modelers, but most important of all is to realize that they also started with no experience, beginners just like everyone else.  I'm so glad for you that the world, so to speak, has opened up for your endeavors into this hobby.  Look forward to seeing your work, and above all else . . . enjoy the journey.   

Ken,   

The key, IMHO, is that you've found a method that works for you.  I believe/hope you'll be as surprised as I was when you start working the hull with some sandpaper and find how things aren't nearly as "questionable" as you might be thinking at the moment.  Trimming the plank ends at the bow was an ordeal for me, I was so afraid of taking too much off or getting my line crooked and/or slanted.  I can't tell you how many times I used the bow stem to guide me in finding out where I needed to take just a sliver off.    

Hey HHH, now I see what you've been getting "all wound up" about (sorry, I couldn't help myself) 

Yesterday was another 2 steps forward, 1 step back attempt.  I finally got the courage to remove the bowsprit lashing fully, expecting there to be rework.  I was just positive that I'd have to use acetone to remove some CA that found its way onto the wood which would foul up the stain on the mast and bowsprit.  To my utter joy, the kit supplied line came off with out any complications, no CA on the wood so everything looked just as it had never been there.  I get out my new line from Ropes of Scale and get to relashing the bowsprit to the mast.  Got it done and ran the running end down the mast, under the lashing loops using a small sewing needle, and trimmed back to the lashing loop just fine.  All that was left was to trim the fixed end back to the lashing loop and apply diluted white glue to set it up.  I was feeling really good at this point.  Everything was neat and tight and the new line looked sooooo much better.  The color, IMHO, looked great against the wood and seeing the twists of the rope just topped it all off.  I used tweezers to grab the fixed end of the line so I could trim it back and . . . . I just nicked the lashing loop so everything just sprang loose.  After uttering many bad words, I escaped to the garage to have a smoke and a cold one while I recomposed myself.  Today I'll give it another try. 

Giampiero, the craziest thing just happened to me.  I went to an online thesaurus to find synonyms for the word "perfect" and the only thing it listed was a link to this build log!

Welcome aboard Dan, you've been given some great advice from some of the best this hobby has to offer.  I can only share some suggestions based upon my limited experience so take them for what their worth.  Patience is probably one of the most important things a builder needs to possess, closely followed by adhering to the adage of "take your time".  This is a hobby you can pretty much just get up and walk away for a bit in order to decompress and recompose, just remember to put the cap back on the glue first.  Any oops, catastrophic mistake or major blow it can be fixed no matter how devastating you perceive it to be, just be patient and take your time.  You shouldn't concern yourself to deeply in tool investment.  I recall a very young and inexperienced builder (I believe she was located in France) back in the MSW 1.0 days.  With practically zero modeling or woodworking experience and the most limited set tools was creating a beautiful ship that was the envy of many an experienced builder.  Don't get discouraged after looking at some of the wonderful ships that can be seen here, remember that even the very best builders were all beginners at one time just like you and I.  Remember the that the dumbest question you could think of is the one you don't ask.  By all means start and build log and ask your questions there, but I've found I get better response times and more thorough answers to my questions when posted in the appropriately related folder.  With over 43,300 members here, there are more than a few who are very eager share their knowledge, tips, tricks and hints to a new builder so know that you've got a tremendous amount of support and encouragement to help you along.  And finally, enjoy yourself.         

You're very welcome.  The other "extras" you've done are also exceptional.  I'm enjoying following along and can't wait to see your video presentation of the finale of your build.

The lights add so much, a really neat affect and very nicely done.

I'm using the 3rd hand for seizing and serving.  Still trying to workout the best setup for whatever I'm doing.  But I suppose that is part of developing "your" method doing things.  I'm also using fly tying line, really like it.  Just one thing I'm still having trouble with is the twisting that can happen when seizing.  If I don't get the end run thru an untwisted loop I wind up with a knotted mess which is unacceptable.  Your rigging is looking good.

Knocklouder, thank you so much for having the courage to read my entire log.  I liked your screen name explanation by the way.  I know my posts get wordy at times but I can't seem to help myself.  This journey has been the definition of two steps forward and one step back.  There haven't been very many steps that I haven't messed up or decided that a do-over could get a better result.  With a couple exceptions, I'm pretty pleased with the results so far.  Thanks again for the visit and your kind words, they both help to build my confidence and keep me motivated.  Lately I'm finding it hard to find the proper frame of mind and the time to finish my standing rigging.  I sure the two will find each other at the same time before too long.  

Welcome aboard Alexandre.  I can't wait to see your ORCA.  There are only 3 modern ships I would ever consider building and the ORCA is one of them.

Welcome aboard Allen, from a fellow Hoosier to your north.  Sounds like your background will definitely give you a leg-up on your first build.  Please let us know when you start your build log, look forward to following your efforts. 

Thanks HHH, we were very lucky regarding the tree.  We lost 3 of the 4 major limbs of the main trunk.  With all due respect to the very skilled and brave people working in the lumber industry, I honestly don't think anyone of them could have done a better job than what Mother Nature did on her own.  Zero damage to any structure or plants, with minimal encroachment into the neighbor's yard.  For the second time, we were soooo very lucky with this tree.  We've decided to make it go away and replace it with a Red Maple.  I'll be posting pictures of my Jolly Boat when I've got the boat back to where she was prior to getting my new line.  Found more than a couple benefits to redoing the standing rigging.  I'll be adding the rings for the spanker to the mast prior to securing the rigging as I'm very sure it will be easier to get them closed back to proper shape after opening them up for the bolt rope rather than for the mast.  Opening them up is probably the wrong term, I'll be moving the ends of the rings laterally rather than spreading them apart.  Then there are all the blocks I seized backwards.  The hole goes on the top, not the bottom.  And hopefully I can do my dead eyes with minimal twist due to what I think I learned in my Dead Eye Twist question.  Probably won't see the boat till this weekend, kinda' forgot how drained one gets after a full work day.  Thanks again for all comments and reactions this build is getting and hope that just might help someone out in the future.      

I've got the shrouds and stays served and seized for the mast using the new line from Ropes of Scale.  I had hoped to use the existing shrouds as guides for dead eye placement.  After a couple days of fiddling with it I think I've found a method to use them, but time will tell.  One thing dawned on me while I was removing the old rigging, I'll want to redo the lashing on the bow sprit.  Can't leave the old line, it just wouldn't look right.  I used CA to set the ends of the line so I'm sure the debonder I'll need to use will affect the staining of the mast and bow sprit which will require touch up.  But I could/hope being wrong and things come off nicely, again won't know till I do it.

Had a couple interruptions lately, we had out of town family come by for a week long visit which was very nice.  Great time but now I know how EZ feels in regard to stepping away for a bit making it harder to get back at it.  The other thing was a storm that blew thru and decimated 3/4 of our big shade tree in the front yard.  I've really become more sensitive to the heat and humidity here in central Indiana as I've gotten older (a couple of bouts with heat stroke in my younger days probably didn't help) so I can only work on making little things out of big things in the mornings.  And lastly, after an extended lay off, I got a job and will be starting on Monday.  That will end my middle of the day efforts, whether they were just mental or actually doing something.  I would like to get this build done soon so I have enough time to subtly hint at what would be a great Christmas gift, build #2 

Regarding your faring, I would suggest you look at other build logs of this ship to get a better idea how the planks will lay out.  My little Jolly Boat was pretty straight forward, not as many planks to cover the span plus I didn't need to use any steelers or drop planks.  That and I didn't plank it per the kit instructions.   I have zero experience with your build so I can't help you with your question shown in your sketch.  Again I suggest you study other build logs to see what they did and if you're still unsure post a question in the appropriate section.  Another thing, your sketches are good and help show your "options", though including photos might be the key to convey exactly what you're talking about.  It would ensure there is no confusion in the written description.  But if I had to make a guess, and I understand your question correctly with the pictures and sketches provided, what you're doing in making the rabbit at the aft end of the false keel.  My Jolly Boat didn't have one so I've never done one, but I believe you want the gradual taper shown in graphite per your sketch.  Again, if I understand things correctly: after faring the hull, ideally you want the outboard side of your planking to be flush with the transom post.  I don't know if this is a single plank hull or a double plank hull and I'm sure that makes a big difference.  At this point I'd want the planks to sit a bit proud of your dry fitted transom post because you still have the fare the hull.  If you create the rabbit so that an unfared plank lays flush with the transom post, after faring it will be below flush - unless you have a second planking to go.  Once again, I'm only guessing so you probably should wait for a more experienced shipwright to chime in before you proceed.  And when they do, we will both learn something     

Mark, this particular X-Acto plane blade and spoke shave blade were designed to be disposable just like other X-Acto blades.  I'm not worried/concerned about it at all.  I'll hang on to them just so folks can ask "what is that for"  

Jerome, thank you for the offer.  I've never used mine either since I've yet to come across a situation, in my very limited experience, where they were needed.  I was just thinking ahead a bit that if I ever did try either one out, deciding it was the best thing since sliced bread, where do I get replacement blades.  To me, it's looking more and more like there are alternatives and/or newer/better tools that serve the same purpose that people were selecting.  As such X-Acto discontinued the tool and their replacement blades since they were no longer profitable.

Welcome aboard Mango.  I have to agree with Chris on his advice regarding a second build selection.  Build what you want to build for what ever reason you want to build it.  It's definitely a bonus if you have an interest in the ship as it helps you thru the difficulties you face during the build.  Selecting a ship that has new and/or different features will surely increase your skill set and probably help you determine what your 3rd build will be.  Remember that you've got thousands of builders who you can lean on for help, guidance and support during your build.  All you have to do is ask, the only dumb/silly question is the one you don't ask.  I've found that posting a question in the appropriate section will get you a quicker answer/response than posting within your build log, since more people will see it there than those who might follow your build log.  Take your time, be patient and enjoy the voyage of your first build.  

Mango, I'm sure your research reading has told you that you should have 100% contact of plank to frame/bulkhead and keel members.  I would offer the suggestion of using a batten to help you fare the frames/bulkheads and keel members to achieve this.  Some use tape, or string, or an actual hull plank for this purpose.  My little Jolly Boat had some pretty intense curves at the stern and what worked best for me was a strip of rigid card stock, actually is was from the "cardboard" used to package a 30 pack of the "golden nectar" I enjoy.  This enables you to see the high/low spots that need to be addressed in order to give the surface contact needed at each station and make the smooth transition from bulwark to keel, bow to transom.  As you've read, many methods have been established for just about any process in this hobby.  The keys are fully understanding what the end result should be and why it needs to be that way, plus finding the method that works for you.  And it doesn't have to be a single method, it could be a melding of methods that becomes "Mango's way of doing things".  If using a template and counting strokes gets to achieve symmetry works, great.  If using a batten and using the calibrated eye to achieve symmetry works, great.  The quality of your faring of the frames/bulkheads and keel members directly determines the appearance and work required in planking the hull.  Take your time, exercise patience and quadruple check what you've done before starting the hull planking.  Oh, and remember that any "oops" or mistake can be fixed if you decide it is worth fixing.  Look forward to following your build if you don't mind.       

I know the newer Dremels have replaceable contacts and springs, don't know if one nearly 40 years old might have the same.  I might think it could be worth looking into if the tools has any sentimental value to you.  Just a suggestion.

Welcome aboard John.  Allan is suggesting that the ship you have chosen might be an overly ambitious decision for a first build.  In "discovering" ways to overcome the difficulties you will inevitably come across as a first time builder, you will have a strong probability of not taking the best course of action to move on.  What I mean is that there probably is an easier way to do it, a more authentic appearance that can be achieved and/or a method that would/could provide a more accurate result, thus getting into bad habits.  This is nothing against you at all personally, plus I'm sure many of us would love for you prove the "unsolicited caution" unwarranted.  But there are so many "1st timers" who've thrown up their arms and walked away from the hobby because they dove head first into the deep end before they learned to swim.  Regardless of what you decide, rest assured that there are many folks here that are ready, willing and able to provide answers to any and all questions you have on any build you select.  Once you figure out which one, take you time, be patient and enjoy the voyage.    

All is good in our little world  

Got the same here in Indiana, immediately reminded of the great crash.  I hoped it was nothing more than a down server and nothing would be lost, looks like wish came true.