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shipman

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  1. shipman
    A little insight...... https://www.airplanesandrockets.com/magazines/american-modeler/revell-plastic-kits-made-american-modeler-may-1957.htm
  2. shipman
    Yes, all the kits back then were derived from a larger 'master' model and a pantograph system was used to make a mold. Airfix used to highlight the process in their magazine, Revell did something similar as part of their publicity. I'll try and dig a bit for that.
  3. shipman
    Kevin, I agree with every point you made. Same goes for Ian's. I dare not mention to anyone I know of my interest in models, for fear of hoots of derision. If you show someone, the usual comment is ''That's nice, did you make it yourself?'' When you say how long it took, you get gasps of disbelief. Instant gratification is the thing today. All the effort goes into watching TV.
  4. shipman
    Veszett, hi. You made a good summary above. As far as I know there hasn't been a new tool sailing ship released for decades. In my enthusiasm I have suggested to Airfix that they design a 1:48 18th century armed cutter, which would be capable of being built to the highest standard, potentially incorporating every detail, including working rigging. Such a kit would fit the boxing common to their sailing ship range, use no more raw materials etc. Unfortunately Airfix (and the rest of the plastic ship industry) have no enthusiasm for such a project. It would seem they regard ship models having little commercial potential.
  5. shipman
    Airfix and Heller cut their ties some time ago. The 'Special Edition' releases are simply later boxing of the same kits, all the range of sailing ships dropped the pre-fabricated ratlines. The vacu-formed sails were always included, except the very first offering of the 'Endeavour' which had very crude furled sails on the yards. There are numerous excellently detailed resin kits of the post sailing ship era. Without exception they are invariably expensive, for whatever reason. Working with these kits can, be a toxic mix if you aren't careful.
  6. shipman
    Part of the fun/challenge when building these kits (as opposed to assembling OOB) is correcting the errors. on what are after all 40/50 year old products designed within the limits of the market at the time. The best we can hope for is a complete re-design. Can't see that happening. One thing I'm not keen on is resin detail upgrades that ad disproportionate cost to a project which often can be resolved with minimal effort and cost.
  7. shipman
    Hi, again. Following your link to hismodel, all I can find are reproductions of Revell instructions; nothing remotely resembling Campbell plans. I just got the Campbell 'General Arrangement' plan (hull) off ebay. Interestingly, the quality is very clear, not the usual over reproduced blurry copies which are now so common.
  8. shipman
    Thanks for that Without some serious upheaval, these books aren't close to hand. Honestly I never associated the CS plans with the books before. Tell me, are there drawings in the books that share the character of the CS ones, which are entirely hand drawn. That could be the clue as each artist has a unique style.
  9. shipman
    Yes, a wise move. You'll find the boats have a chain, due to the covers, appear to go over each end of the boat, attached to the skids by lashings
  10. shipman
    Hi, agree, at first the instructions are a little confusing. Until I did a thumbnail sketch from above, and proceeded to draw the lines. Even at a first and only attempt the result indicated what Hackney had in mind. That revealed the booms held by up and over loops and the boats held by diagonal crosswise threads. Surprisingly neat. Once the principle is understood it is clear how logical the process is, using the minimum of thread and attendant clutter. Give that a go! Looking at your boat placement, compared to boat storage on the actual ship reveals some proportional differences. For instance the inner edge of the lifeboat crutches is directly over the sides of the deck-house, ie moving the boats further apart, resulting in plenty of room between for the dinghy and booms of your choice. I recall similar advice I gave Bruma many moons ago; for which he was happy. Out of curiosity, I'd love to see film of the apparent palaver necessary to launch such boats sideways between the cranes which are always separated within the length of the boat.
  11. shipman
    Are you sure that is the same Campbell? That's a book I have, unfortunately not to hand. The first edition of Longridge has the Underhill plans as seperate fold-outs, tipped in. Larger scale plans (though the same) can still be purchased. https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/clipper-ship-cutty-sark-sail-and-rigging-plan You may find a source for these your side of the pond. Leo, hi. You may well be correct, though it seems a lot of trouble adding 4 feet. I'm not sure of the dimensions, but could that be a reference to one or other of the deck-houses? At first glance they may look identical, but as sure as I am, sitting on my Penny Farthing, they arn't.
  12. shipman
    I noticed your comments elsewhere on the forum, giving some reassurance that you are well. That ladder is lovely. Very symbolic. Like all things in life, one step at a time.
  13. shipman
    Thank you. I'm not a big fan of Campbells' plans. To me they seem dubious. Employed by the London County Council, he was tasked to produce them when the ship was first displayed at the Festival of Britain (she was moored in the Thames at that time, with no public access). Beat me to a pulp, but I feel his plans were part of the promotion of the ship at that event, as a tourist take away. I know my opinion won't be popular, indeed I expect derision, but to me the Underhill plans are more reliable; he knew his ships and produced books and plans well before Campbell. Give me any other maritime contribution Campbell made? Thanks also for your profile photo, ;what a handsome well preserved chap you are. You could have been in the movies!
  14. shipman
    #246 'I also read that when first built, there was only one deck cabin, the second was added a couple of years later, though Hackney didn’t mention which one.' Yes, the fore deck-house wasn't there originally. Nice to know I was thinking along the right lines about the anchor chain/hatch arrangements. Though I have most if not all of the significant books, I don't recall mention these details specifically. Delighted you all enjoyed the photo 'game'.
  15. shipman
    'Who is who in the picture?' Left=you; has that swarthy confidence most Americans like to think they have. Center=Kevin; a very British character, like most of us looking a little weary of the world. Right=Bruma; that vaguely exotic appearance of your average Mediterranean chappie. Only joking, I just thought a little levity can be good medicine.
  16. shipman
    Kevin, there is another oblique way to tackle the issue of tiny deadeyes and their lanyards. You could 'cheat' and make a rigid assembly of the damn things by simply still having the deadeyes, but instead of reeving them, stick three pieces of stiffened lanyard stuff (perhaps using PVA) either side. I'm sure you're cunning enough to pull that off. That would give you the effect you need.
  17. shipman
    #235 That's a good photo of you, Kevin and Bruma when you visited the ship to compare notes, the black and white treatment gives it that period flavor 🤓 'bulleyes? Deck height bogey... I'm sure you've all noticed the outside of the bulwarks have a good depiction of the wash port lids, the bottom edge would give a datum for a properly lowered deck. These panels are rarely featured in photos. Anchor chain deck run... If I ever get my finger out (next winter/) my solution which would satisfy me at least, would re build the hatch in front of the winch and take the liberty of making it narrower! I may even consider iron deck plates for the chain to travel on. That whole anchor chain paradox continually 'bugs' me.
  18. shipman
    Think before you upload. Great chat up line in certain company LOL.
  19. shipman
    Kevin, hi. All the information on such topics has been covered one way or another on the forum. It has been my experience that getting into such nitty gritty is a laborious hit and miss affair, unless more often than not, you know exactly where to look, you can find it's a full time job. Other members kindly do point the way, but rarely give a proper link, so you're back where you started. An often overlooked resource are model makers on youtube who freely share such information.
  20. shipman
    Thanks Rob, most of that I am familiar with, but hopefully others will also benefit from your explanation,
  21. shipman
    #205 LOL!!!! It was me bidding against you on the books, Kevin. Sorry for pushing the price up at the last minute. Greedy really as I already have all 3! The ones you got look to be brand new, well done.
  22. shipman
    re #204 thank you. unfortunately that supplier says they won't ship to UK!?!
  23. shipman
    Don't forget, due to the angles of the shrouds the distances between top and bottom deadeyes varies front to back (fore and aft). That is if you want a nice straight line along the top deadeyes.
  24. shipman
    Going to be fun stropping the even smaller deadeyes above the tops.
  25. shipman
    Yo! #192 if that's 45lpi chain would you mind telling where it was bought, please? #193/195/196 The rope would indeed be a good fender. The 'thimbles' would certainly be iron or steel. Attaching the shrouds like that would certainly make maintenance/ repairs to the deadeye/lanyard assembly more practical. Should a top deadeye fail it would be a bugger of a job turning the cable around a new deadeye. #192 it would be a good idea to put some tape or shrink wrap around the teeth of those clips to avoid damage to whatever they are holding. Many moons ago I too suggested an index as you suggest. It was pointed out to me....'someone would have a time consuming job on their hands; are you volunteering?'

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