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Everything posted by shipman
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druxey already said he's not going to use paint. Such a masterpiece needs no embellishment. Subtlety is the key here.
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https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/kutter-kl-1/ Ah, but druxey's is to a much smaller scale! The pencil says it all (and there's still some lead in it 😆 !!
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Ah ha! Spotted your sleight of hand/cunning plan to hide the split in the wood, which the transom is made. Or was the reinforcing piece always 'Plan A'? 😇 LOL
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Thank you druxey and wefalk for your perspectives. It's why I'm here, to learn from the 'team'. I do so enjoy these dialogues.
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Thank you, Druxey. So if the standards are fixed to both the thwart and the side of the boat.... I always understood the thwarts were removable, enabling nesting and making room for a cargo/storage load? Also weren't the thwarts 'set into' the risers, preventing the thwart moving fore and aft?
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What a delight this project is and as it's coming to a close I'm already getting withdrawal symptoms as builds of this quality are rare here. I've grown numb with the endless 'Medway Longboat' offerings, whatever their merits. Question.....the angled brackets (do they have a name?) at each end of and above thwarts: in real boats, are these made to 'wedge' the thwart in position, but can be knocked' out enabling the thwart to be removed when required? Observation......I don't recall many oared craft models which have the oarsman's foot rests included. Were these fittings a lot more common, but rarely depicted as they make a lot of practical sense? Thank you for the pleasure this continuing build has given to me and many others.
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Love the novel if not unique method turning the supports within the brass tube.
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Well done! It's easy when you know how. Big smile 😎
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Spent entire evening trying to find new photo's on the web, with no result. Is the boat still in the Venice museum? Keith is right; the drawing (at least for the grating) is fiction. That's what I was getting at. However you extemporise, I'm sure your solution will be a credit to the rest of your superb model.
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I'm usually a bit cock eyed with these things, but is it possible the original grating was in two haves? It may profit to study wefalks photo more closely.
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''one of the advantages of a pure pulling boat is that one avoids registration fees, high "oil spill" insurance costs, and the like''. NOT if you live in the UK! Everything from a paddle board upwards is regulated, requires registration, licencing, insurance...lalala...
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Whatever the dimensions; for a 1:48 boat model yours is spectangular! The craftsmanship is astonishing.....sometimes it's hard to realise how small this thing is. Often, when finding a build here, the first item I look for are the ships boats; if they aren't near your standard, then the rest is a disappointment. Are you intending to mast and rig it? Where would forums like this be without the miracle of digital photography and the internet.
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The boat in 'Neptune' is emphatically 26'. Yours is 28'. So not a copy of the boat in Venice, but one in the style of? Sorry to be so pedantic.
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It's also worth noting there are many grades of S/S, some I've encountered are so hard right through and impossible to improve the milled finish. Most nuts and bolts seem to have a hard skin microns thick, once that has been removed the softer under surface takes a lovely polish rapidly. Avoid S/S plate which has a grey rolled grain surface....it can be levelled and polished but the effort isn't worth the effort. May I suggest getting a supplier to provide the type which already has a mirror finish, but cut to the size you require. This usually comes in plate 1-2mm thick. Be careful not to scratch it as removing that is a nightmare.
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Which Scale 1/200 or 1/350 Kit is the most detailed
shipman replied to Guyuti's topic in Plastic model kits
There's detail. then there's accurate detail! If money isn't a problem, both scales offer superb detail sets. As always, research, research and more research. There are plenty of finished builds on the net.....it's up to you to decide which way to go. -
I have a 1956 BSA motorcycle. 30 years ago I replaced 99% of the fasteners, laboriously hand polishing each one, using files, emery and finally using a buffing wheel. That took me an entire winter but the results were exceptional. After all the years, being exposed to oil, road dirt and British weather, a quick wipe with an oily rag reveals all the glitter. Brilliant! If I'd gone with new cadmium plated steel it would be rust and need replacing again.
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LOL, back in the day, part of my job was as a proof reader. AND I'M DYSLEXIC! 🤓
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What a pleasure to vicariously share your excellent build, 'Druxey'. Is there a reason why your version is 2' longer than the original?
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Canute, I'd just been viewing Kostas Kaseas latest build. If you take the time to look at his previous work on that site it will be very clear he's a cut above the rest. Probably the best.
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