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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. shipman
    Can I be the first in the cue and be cheeky and request a set of your lozenge decals? I have no means of printing and haven't a clue how to do the origination on my laptop. Kevin, see my comment #122 here. I share your pain.
  2. shipman
    The best paint available in the UK, I've found, are the acrylic Citadel range from Games Workshop, which are the bees. They have very fine ground dense pigments and flow beautifully off a brush (as they are designed to). Coverage is excellent, yet they are thin enough to not obscure detail. One stroke and you're done....including a wide range of metallics. They aren't the cheapest My experience of sharpies and other felt tips is they aren't as permanent as they'd like you to think.
  3. shipman
    Mmmm. My main concern is that the etch is pierced, ie there are gaps between the lettering etc. So whatever adhesive you use, it's bound to spread and squidge out and around the detail. CA often turns white, epoxy....well, it behaves like chewing gum that sets. Again, messy. The clear when dry properties of PVA types would seem to avoid those issues. I agree, pre-forming the etch to the surface it's going onto is a vital key to success. The stern decoration etch is a delicate filigree and needs some thought as to how it's applied, without destroying the whole point of using it.
  4. shipman
    The 'Pledge' used to be called 'Future'; aircraft modellers dip canopies in it, which makes them perfectly clear. Not sure how good it is as a 'glue'. This Microscale product is brilliant for clear windows. It's a sort of PVA. There again, I've used ordinary PVA and got the same results. Glad you brought this up, as it seems ideal for attaching the bow and stern etch, though I have no idea how to hold the etch in place while the stuff sets. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=microscale+crystal+clear Again, I feel Longridge is as good a source as you'll find. It's worth remembering he did his own research in the 1920's when she was still afloat and had the opportunity to crawl all over the ship.
  5. shipman
    My first visit to your build. Oh my! This is WAY beyond me. Can't believe what I'm seeing.
  6. shipman
    I've had umpteen small value items from China, usually free postage and never incurred any additional charges. Incredible really, when you consider they are at the other side of the planet. Makes me wonder how they make any money at all.
  7. shipman
    For what it's worth, I'd de-grease the parts and paint them with good old Humbrol enamel paint mat or gloss to taste. I have no time for the hit and miss of chemical treatment. Perhaps not every ones cup of tea, but you did ask.
  8. shipman
    I concur with your opinion of most of the wooden kit renditions, though I have no wish to denigrate the folk who build them. Most (as an example) have planked bulwarks; they are sheet iron/steel on the ship. In addition, the wood provided is appalling quality, the grain being open and out of scale. By contrast the basic hull of the revel kit is pretty accurate, not withstanding obvious small detail issues which are easily remedied. As for the masts and spars, the fragility of the parts justifying scratch replacements in brass and wood. On the ship the belay pins are iron, painted black. The deadeyes are made of that very hard wood, Lignum Vitae, which is a dark brown. The often regarded as the bible 'plans' by Campbell, as someone here recently observed, aren't entirely accurate either. As I understand it he was commissioned to do them to compliment the ships first public appearance at the Festival of Britain in the early 50's. He was employed by the London County Council engineering department. I have no idea what his connection was to maritime affairs before or after. It would be enlightening to hear more of his background, what his sources were (other than 'conversations' with surviving sailors of the period). The original ships spec listed (naturally) accurate builders plans and a model. No trace of which survives. We do know the decorative elements at bow and stern were originally far different to those on the ship now. Like so much of history, there will be so much we'll never know.
  9. shipman
    Another issue with the kit boards that the deadeyes and belay pins are mounted are at least double the width they are on the ship. Another cunning feature is that the pins locate between the deadeyes, so they can be set back. I would suggest drilling holes for new pins at the same locations where the kit ones are is pure fiction. I think you mentioned earlier about your marginal confidence tackling the rigging. If this build has already had you pulling your hair out with frustration, you must realise what lies ahead is when the party truly begins. That is when you find out your real character. Rigging explores your personality. It helps if you are already predisposed to being highly strung.
  10. shipman
    When the time comes to be belaying lines to the pins I would guess it would be prudent to be careful. A tad too much tension could easily snap a few off; remember it's only plastic. I have two examples of the kit, one of which is the original UK issue (around 1962) with pre-painted hull, not only is the plastic on that one very brittle, it has dark brown swirls and smears as if the molten plastic wasn't mixed thoroughly. Looking forward to your updates. No pressure 😏
  11. shipman
    re deleted #95. Here's another attempt to stay legal. A preserved original 'cat head' from the Cutty Sark....bugger! I attempted to ad a url only and up popped the image I was trying to avoid and not infringe copyright. Anyway, if you are interested, google 'cat head, cutty sark' at the Dumbarton Science Museum. You'll find several views of a delightful original specimen, without hurting any-ones felines.
  12. shipman
    Many Airfix kits have had several lives. Often the original molded 'dates' have clearly been crudely erased from the master mold presses.
  13. shipman
    Your and 'kevin-the-lubber' are both posting builds of this kit simultaneously on this forum. Each I;m following and where I can I hope to be making pertinent comments. Confusion between the two has made me realise you are approaching your builds with slightly different philosophy. In future I'll try and be more aware of that.
  14. shipman
    Your and 'bcochran' are both posting builds of this kit simultaneously on this forum. Each I;m following and where I can I hope to be making pertinent comments. Confusion between the two has made me realise you are approaching your builds with slightly different philosophy. In future I'll try and be more aware of that. I've followed several builds of this kit, including 'Bruma's' admirable version. You are the first to spot the kit deck is too high; congratulations! That explains why the 'freeing ports' molded outboard don't register with the deck inboard. I've puzzled on this in the past, as I think those hinged flaps would be an interesting feature. I'm sure it would be a pig of a job to lower the deck, but should I ever start the two kits I have, lowering the deck would be essential. Enjoying following both these builds, each bringing new insights and solutions.
  15. shipman
    Yet you seem to be retaining the grossly over scale belay pins? It's been a while since I actually read the Hackney book; however I have a lasting impression that he managed to produce a fair model of the Cutty, baring in mind the book was written in the mid 70's, primarily for the youth of the day with few tools or other resources. A touch of common sense would be required today. If I would build the Airfix kit as Hackney did, I'd be more than happy with it. And it wouldn't cost a fortune to do it.
  16. shipman
    Yes Graham, the factory tour is a proper bucket list job. In some ways I was a little disappointed, so much of the cars are bought in, so in reality they are professionally built kit cars. And vastly over priced. T be honest, I didn't see anything I couldn't have done myself (SHOCK-HORROR). Blag a run in the recent 3 wheeler............incredible performance up to 100mph and so stable. You won't be disappointed. Being a biker, the lack of creature comforts is what I'm used to.
  17. shipman
    Dan, i remember that movie. Very un-PC now, as Sellers was blacked up as an Indian doctor. At the start of the movie he turns up at a pool party in it. Isn't that the one where some famous beauty sang 'Doctor I'm in trouble'? By the way, the red Morgan is one of the newer types, the green one is mid 30's racer; similar to Mike's model. Each was radically different. The yellow one had a 1000cc sidevalve motor, a two speed gearbox, and direct steering which meant a full arm and shoulder work out. The green one, like the yellow one has a throttle lever on the steering wheel and was deceptively quick, running on methanol (OHV 1000cc). Three speed gearbox. The red one has a US made 2000cc S&S motor, five speed Miata transmission. Flooring the pedal flattened my eyeballs! Probably the best day out I ever had.
  18. shipman
    Me again LOL.
  19. shipman
    Here's me driving a 1920's model at an event organised by the Morgan Three Wheelers Club. Not long afterwards I joined tour of the factory, where the were indeed building new ones.
  20. shipman
    #61 Hi Brian. Yes, I also built this kit as a teenager on the cusp of decimalisation. We weren't well off back then (lucky to have a matching pair of shoes). Even though we had very little pocket money, but we saved the pennies and could regularly afford to buy these kits. Not now it would seem; I'd shriek in horror at the thought of a teenager of mine coming home with a £100+ kit today. We had a lot of fun back then and learned a lot. I recon I built the entire Airfix range over a 2 to 3 year period. You'd think Airfix would have re-couped their molding costs decades ago, yet they still churn out the same old kits at premium prices, as if the kits were up to date molding technology. Nothing like being taken for a ride in an old, old Bentley.
  21. shipman
    The rear bodywork was an ash frame, covered with stretched linen fabric (Just like the cutting edge aircraft at the time!).
  22. shipman
    Rule number one with plastic kits........doing a dry fit with EVERYTHING is essential. Stay calm and carry on.
  23. shipman
    Are you sure that's a deadeye? looks like a gingerbread man to me😎
  24. shipman
    Are you aware of the book by Noel Hackney? Though it relates to the smaller Airfix kit it's a well written step by step guide on how to build and rig. The basic principles will translate to the Revell kit, especially the methodical rigging tutorial. Just translate any specified sizes and dimensions to what you need. It's so easy to get bogged down with research. This book will guide you every step of the way without numbing the brain. Of course things can be done better, but this will give a convincing representation of what you're after. Well worth getting your hands on a copy.
  25. shipman
    Here in the UK, since 'Brexit', anything mailed from mainland Europe, postage suddenly doubled or quadrupled. Some sellers won't even consider doing business with UK customers. Frequently items within the UK are shipped free, even if the item costs £1-£2! Buying ANYTHING transatlantic is a no no.

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