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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. shipman
    Hi there Johnny, glad you find the hackney book worthwhile. Early in the book he clarifies that though Airfix have always sold the kit as 1:130, it actually measures out as 1:168! Considering the book was published in the mid 1970's it's quite remarkable. 3 titles were introduced, Mayflower/Victory/Cutty Sark. The intention was to guide the young modeller at the time on how to build representative ships from each time period. The rigging aspect could be applied to most ships from each period. Of course, this forum will blanch at that, but for the young/amateur/inexperienced modeller wanting to get a foot in the door and broaden the mind, before, perhaps attempting a more ambitious project, I believe that's a laudable thing to do. You'll find all the Airfix sailing ship models are generally pretty accurate, remarkable when you remember when they were introduced. My favourite is the Bounty, which at 1:87 scale gives the opportunity to get a lot of detail in, especially the rigging. Another plus of this kit is it isn't festooned with lots of cannons to get bogged down with. The hull could be easily adapted to produce ships using many different and varied rigs of the time There are as many ways to build these kits as there are ways to skin a cat (God forbid).
  2. shipman
    LOL it can be done! Just got confused between these two builds, pardon me. I just added a comment to Kevin's log which should have been for yours (though most of my 'interuptions' may apply to both your logs) .... It's my way of showing some appreciation for what you are collectively doing. As for scaling up from 1:168 to 1:96, unless you're going to get too technical, simply doubling the dimensions you're talking about (to the eye on a completed model) would look just fine.
  3. shipman
    Don't want to teach what you may already know..... eg. assuming that's from Hackney: 5'' full scale rope at 1:168 would be 104 tight turns around a stick over the length of an inch. That would be fine thread indeed.
  4. shipman
    Reminder....cordage used to be measured around the circumference. Don't compare Cutty with Victory.....that would be folly. As for scaling up from 1:168 to 1:96, unless you're going to get too technical, simply doubling the dimensions you're talking about (to the eye on a completed model) would look just fine.
  5. shipman
    Stacked boats on the Bounty for sure. I'd be surprised if boats on the Cutty were stacked though. Interesting techniques for stacking boats. The height of the top boat (in that image) suggests it's resting on the thwarts, which was done. To keep the center of gravity low, the thwarts of the lower boat would be removed so the top one 'nested' snugly; 'nesting' I believe is the correct term.
  6. shipman
    #154 is the German language version.
  7. shipman
    Your #154 looks to be the same book but an edition I'm not familiar with. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353978898254?hash=item526ac9574e:g:DewAAOSw45FiQJ-needs c This book turns up regularly on ebay, often much cheaper. I got one recently for under a tenner. As with all kits, there's something needing a bit of fettling. That deck issue isn't the end of the world and not hard to put right.
  8. shipman
    Indeed, the Beagle is a re-hash of the Revell Bounty. The 1:87 Airfix Bounty is a much better kit, the scale providing scope to get all the details correct. The AOS book shows how accurate that kit is (at least compared to the drawings in the book).
  9. shipman
    Chain 40lpi https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362852779497
  10. shipman
    Don't forget the Cutty used steel standing rigging. Running rigging, foot ropes etc were hemp. A considerable amount of chain was used on bowsprit, masts and yards.
  11. shipman
    Refer back to your post #38....small boat on deckhouse, Sydney 1891. I have seen drawings/plans/models where there were 2 large boats, with a smaller one between on the aft deckhouse. A similar small boat on the fore deckhouse. It doesn't seem unreasonable to adopt such a scheme. Never come across mention of a 5th boat. As far as deck clutter; unless she was loading/unloading cargo, the decks would need to be free to allow working of the ship. It's worth looking up Alan Villiers photographs on wiki...obviously a later period, but not dissimilar ships.
  12. shipman
    I recon this is as busy as a sailing ship deck would be while at sea...... https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b5/Parma_-_under_sail_in_heavy_weather.jpg
  13. shipman
    This stern decoration is turning into the adventure/farce I was suspecting. I don't understand Radimir's instructions either. The transfer sheet malarky has me scratching my head big time. It could be worse; it could be me.
  14. shipman
    I have this 'ornament', but don't recall there being 'transfer foil' enclosed. Hope you can make sense of their instructions.
  15. shipman
    May I suggest you email hismodel? and seek their advice. Good luck.
  16. shipman
    They obviously consumed the ships stock of rust inhibitor! Hope they paid the admission fee.
  17. shipman
    Congratulations 'J'. Fabulous work, especially making the anchors with one hand and playing the piano with the other. Joking aside, thank you for sharing your much anticipated updates.
  18. shipman
    You two chaps are making a great team. Neither are as daft as I look.
  19. shipman
    Can I be the first in the cue and be cheeky and request a set of your lozenge decals? I have no means of printing and haven't a clue how to do the origination on my laptop. Kevin, see my comment #122 here. I share your pain.
  20. shipman
    The best paint available in the UK, I've found, are the acrylic Citadel range from Games Workshop, which are the bees. They have very fine ground dense pigments and flow beautifully off a brush (as they are designed to). Coverage is excellent, yet they are thin enough to not obscure detail. One stroke and you're done....including a wide range of metallics. They aren't the cheapest My experience of sharpies and other felt tips is they aren't as permanent as they'd like you to think.
  21. shipman
    Mmmm. My main concern is that the etch is pierced, ie there are gaps between the lettering etc. So whatever adhesive you use, it's bound to spread and squidge out and around the detail. CA often turns white, epoxy....well, it behaves like chewing gum that sets. Again, messy. The clear when dry properties of PVA types would seem to avoid those issues. I agree, pre-forming the etch to the surface it's going onto is a vital key to success. The stern decoration etch is a delicate filigree and needs some thought as to how it's applied, without destroying the whole point of using it.
  22. shipman
    The 'Pledge' used to be called 'Future'; aircraft modellers dip canopies in it, which makes them perfectly clear. Not sure how good it is as a 'glue'. This Microscale product is brilliant for clear windows. It's a sort of PVA. There again, I've used ordinary PVA and got the same results. Glad you brought this up, as it seems ideal for attaching the bow and stern etch, though I have no idea how to hold the etch in place while the stuff sets. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=microscale+crystal+clear Again, I feel Longridge is as good a source as you'll find. It's worth remembering he did his own research in the 1920's when she was still afloat and had the opportunity to crawl all over the ship.
  23. shipman
    My first visit to your build. Oh my! This is WAY beyond me. Can't believe what I'm seeing.
  24. shipman
    I've had umpteen small value items from China, usually free postage and never incurred any additional charges. Incredible really, when you consider they are at the other side of the planet. Makes me wonder how they make any money at all.
  25. shipman
    For what it's worth, I'd de-grease the parts and paint them with good old Humbrol enamel paint mat or gloss to taste. I have no time for the hit and miss of chemical treatment. Perhaps not every ones cup of tea, but you did ask.

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