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shipman

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  1. shipman
    'Who is who in the picture?' Left=you; has that swarthy confidence most Americans like to think they have. Center=Kevin; a very British character, like most of us looking a little weary of the world. Right=Bruma; that vaguely exotic appearance of your average Mediterranean chappie. Only joking, I just thought a little levity can be good medicine.
  2. shipman
    Kevin, there is another oblique way to tackle the issue of tiny deadeyes and their lanyards. You could 'cheat' and make a rigid assembly of the damn things by simply still having the deadeyes, but instead of reeving them, stick three pieces of stiffened lanyard stuff (perhaps using PVA) either side. I'm sure you're cunning enough to pull that off. That would give you the effect you need.
  3. shipman
    #235 That's a good photo of you, Kevin and Bruma when you visited the ship to compare notes, the black and white treatment gives it that period flavor 🤓 'bulleyes? Deck height bogey... I'm sure you've all noticed the outside of the bulwarks have a good depiction of the wash port lids, the bottom edge would give a datum for a properly lowered deck. These panels are rarely featured in photos. Anchor chain deck run... If I ever get my finger out (next winter/) my solution which would satisfy me at least, would re build the hatch in front of the winch and take the liberty of making it narrower! I may even consider iron deck plates for the chain to travel on. That whole anchor chain paradox continually 'bugs' me.
  4. shipman
    Think before you upload. Great chat up line in certain company LOL.
  5. shipman
    Kevin, hi. All the information on such topics has been covered one way or another on the forum. It has been my experience that getting into such nitty gritty is a laborious hit and miss affair, unless more often than not, you know exactly where to look, you can find it's a full time job. Other members kindly do point the way, but rarely give a proper link, so you're back where you started. An often overlooked resource are model makers on youtube who freely share such information.
  6. shipman
    Thanks Rob, most of that I am familiar with, but hopefully others will also benefit from your explanation,
  7. shipman
    #205 LOL!!!! It was me bidding against you on the books, Kevin. Sorry for pushing the price up at the last minute. Greedy really as I already have all 3! The ones you got look to be brand new, well done.
  8. shipman
    re #204 thank you. unfortunately that supplier says they won't ship to UK!?!
  9. shipman
    Don't forget, due to the angles of the shrouds the distances between top and bottom deadeyes varies front to back (fore and aft). That is if you want a nice straight line along the top deadeyes.
  10. shipman
    Going to be fun stropping the even smaller deadeyes above the tops.
  11. shipman
    Yo! #192 if that's 45lpi chain would you mind telling where it was bought, please? #193/195/196 The rope would indeed be a good fender. The 'thimbles' would certainly be iron or steel. Attaching the shrouds like that would certainly make maintenance/ repairs to the deadeye/lanyard assembly more practical. Should a top deadeye fail it would be a bugger of a job turning the cable around a new deadeye. #192 it would be a good idea to put some tape or shrink wrap around the teeth of those clips to avoid damage to whatever they are holding. Many moons ago I too suggested an index as you suggest. It was pointed out to me....'someone would have a time consuming job on their hands; are you volunteering?'
  12. shipman
    Well spotted. They aren't like that now are they.
  13. shipman
    Neither the Star of India or Balclutha were never designed or used as TEA clippers.
  14. shipman
    Ah, yes. Thank you. I've read so much over the years; at some point recollections can get a bit cloudy. Thankfully a chance detail comes up which helps put 'new planks on an old hull', so to speak. It's worth knowing that nearly all the wooden structures and masts etc were in open storage at Chatham when the fire occurred. So as the ship is now displayed, all or most of what you see was as it was before the fire. The fire consumed all the contractors equipment and the temporary 'tent', but not much of the ship itself, with much of the iron framing surviving, if a little charred and maybe distorted a little. Not withstanding any modern errors during reconstruction we are lucky to have what is at least a true monument to the ship and ships (long gone) of that era.
  15. shipman
    Without photographs (which could be used during most of Cutty's life)......NOBODY KNOWS 🤓 Please remind me.....who is/was Sankey and where is the model?
  16. shipman
    All pertinent questions. Ultimately, you have to decide on details gleaned from what is available. I lean towards Longridge; he was an educated man and I'm sure his reasons for how he did things are in his book somewhere. Revell: Their first US hull moldings included portholes along the full length of the ship. This was corrected before the kit was introduced in the UK. Apparently Revell went to a lot of trouble to get things right; either the sent someone over or employed someone here to do a thorough job of recording the ship when first displayed in the dry dock. After a thorough search of photos at that time, the portholes were indeed there. These had been introduced when the ship was a sail training vessel, giving light and ventilation to the students accommodation. There are too few photos of the ship when employed to train young seamen, but what there are show many details now long gone. For instance the boat booms were mounted alongside the fore deck-house; the upper deck was partitioned off by several transverse bulkheads....and so on. The removal of the row of portholes must have been done late 1950's/60's. I assume the first four photos are of the Longridge model?
  17. shipman
    Thanks for your kind comment, Kevin. Sails: There are several ways of depicting them. Hanging them as you say would have been normal in certain conditions; there doesn't have to be all up or down. Somewhere I've seen a photo where the Cutty is moored, drying the sails. After all it wasn't seaman-like to furl damp sails, that would be begging for mildew and rot. Depicting sails drying would be correct, but not very appealing visually as they would be just flat sheets hanging from the yards. Hope you don't mind my digressions; it isn't my intention to 'take over' your posts. But I do hope to be helpful when I feel I have something constructive to contribute.
  18. shipman
    #187 the steel standing rigging is wound with hemp and tarred to prevent corrosion, so unless you knew better, it isn't obvious.
  19. shipman
    Hi there Johnny, glad you find the hackney book worthwhile. Early in the book he clarifies that though Airfix have always sold the kit as 1:130, it actually measures out as 1:168! Considering the book was published in the mid 1970's it's quite remarkable. 3 titles were introduced, Mayflower/Victory/Cutty Sark. The intention was to guide the young modeller at the time on how to build representative ships from each time period. The rigging aspect could be applied to most ships from each period. Of course, this forum will blanch at that, but for the young/amateur/inexperienced modeller wanting to get a foot in the door and broaden the mind, before, perhaps attempting a more ambitious project, I believe that's a laudable thing to do. You'll find all the Airfix sailing ship models are generally pretty accurate, remarkable when you remember when they were introduced. My favourite is the Bounty, which at 1:87 scale gives the opportunity to get a lot of detail in, especially the rigging. Another plus of this kit is it isn't festooned with lots of cannons to get bogged down with. The hull could be easily adapted to produce ships using many different and varied rigs of the time There are as many ways to build these kits as there are ways to skin a cat (God forbid).
  20. shipman
    LOL it can be done! Just got confused between these two builds, pardon me. I just added a comment to Kevin's log which should have been for yours (though most of my 'interuptions' may apply to both your logs) .... It's my way of showing some appreciation for what you are collectively doing. As for scaling up from 1:168 to 1:96, unless you're going to get too technical, simply doubling the dimensions you're talking about (to the eye on a completed model) would look just fine.
  21. shipman
    Don't want to teach what you may already know..... eg. assuming that's from Hackney: 5'' full scale rope at 1:168 would be 104 tight turns around a stick over the length of an inch. That would be fine thread indeed.
  22. shipman
    Reminder....cordage used to be measured around the circumference. Don't compare Cutty with Victory.....that would be folly. As for scaling up from 1:168 to 1:96, unless you're going to get too technical, simply doubling the dimensions you're talking about (to the eye on a completed model) would look just fine.
  23. shipman
    Stacked boats on the Bounty for sure. I'd be surprised if boats on the Cutty were stacked though. Interesting techniques for stacking boats. The height of the top boat (in that image) suggests it's resting on the thwarts, which was done. To keep the center of gravity low, the thwarts of the lower boat would be removed so the top one 'nested' snugly; 'nesting' I believe is the correct term.
  24. shipman
    #154 is the German language version.
  25. shipman
    Your #154 looks to be the same book but an edition I'm not familiar with. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353978898254?hash=item526ac9574e:g:DewAAOSw45FiQJ-needs c This book turns up regularly on ebay, often much cheaper. I got one recently for under a tenner. As with all kits, there's something needing a bit of fettling. That deck issue isn't the end of the world and not hard to put right.

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