Dan Vadas

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

Beautifully done!
 
Greg

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

I go one better - I Scan and Save every sheet of parts as soon as I get the kit. That way I can not only find the odd part which I've already cut out (now what DID it look like?? ) but if something doesn't work properly I can print out a new page (or just the part itself) and re-make it.
 
Danny

I go one better - I Scan and Save every sheet of parts as soon as I get the kit. That way I can not only find the odd part which I've already cut out (now what DID it look like?? ) but if something doesn't work properly I can print out a new page (or just the part itself) and re-make it.
 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

I go one better - I Scan and Save every sheet of parts as soon as I get the kit. That way I can not only find the odd part which I've already cut out (now what DID it look like?? ) but if something doesn't work properly I can print out a new page (or just the part itself) and re-make it.
 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

Hi Grant, yeah it's a bit different to what I'm used to . This kit also comes with a detailed cockpit and engine compartment, so that will be fun.
 
As I didn't get any laser-cut framing etc for this model I've had to do it the hard way, glue the parts to 1mm card and cut out. I've found it's a lot easier and more accurate to actually glue it to some 0.5mm first, cut out the piece, and then glue it to another 0.5mm card and cut out again (the 2nd time is a lot easier). This ensures a much squarer cut without running off on an angle. I'm using fairly hard card, the "right" stuff is easier to cut but I've run out of large sections of it at the moment :


 
Several parts require an angle to be cut on at least one edge. I use a scalpel to take off the bulk of the material, and finish off with a 150 grit sanding stick :

 
Once the main hull was glued up it came time to fit the outer skin, which comes in one piece. It actually fit quite well :



 
The lit supplies extra parts if you want a more "3D" effect than merely the printed covers etc. The longer pieces in the pic below are slightly rounded using a brass rod and a piece of high-density foam :

 
The start of the suspension :

 
These little (3mm) boxes were a bit more difficult to make than usual because they are double thickness. Despite that they turned out quite well :


 
To avoid damaging the parts that protrude past the floor level while working on the rest of the hull I used double-sided tape to stick on some 4mm thick card packers :

 
Danny

I go one better - I Scan and Save every sheet of parts as soon as I get the kit. That way I can not only find the odd part which I've already cut out (now what DID it look like?? ) but if something doesn't work properly I can print out a new page (or just the part itself) and re-make it.
 
Danny

I needed to roll 28 small tubes, I'm not sure if they are supposed to be bolts, pins or whatever. The parts supplied in the kit were obviously wrong - the tubes are supposed to be 1.5mm diameter x 2.0mm long, but the kit parts were only 2.0mm square whereas a bit of very simple math comes up with a part that is 2.0mm x 4.8mm. I cut new parts from some left-over hull skin from Bismarck. The tubes were rolled around a 1.2mm drill bit :


 
The assembled drive mechanism fitted to the gearbox :



 
Danny

My wooden builds are gathering dust
 
today I did some small stuff. The larger building blocks are done, detailing does cost a bit more time.
 

The first parts for the firecontrol (or whatever, used for the anti aircraft guns)


second thought: no tabs

(There is an error here, but I am not inclined to correct it  )
 
the aircraft platform: (with some weight to keep it in pl-ace while the glue sets)

 

two skylight. Looks OK from this distance, but don' go anywhere near  
 
And finally: the last page that wasn't used till now.
these are the gun-towers. Lots of tabs (needed this time), and a rather complex way glued rings to get the towers movable) 

 
you get the point of the ship being undergunned  when looking at these towers: this is all there is with respect to guns.
 
Jan
 
 
 
 
 
 

The Gearbox consists of about 40 parts. Here's a pic of some of them, the rest have already been put together :

 
There are even four bolt heads :

 
The finished box :


 
Danny

The Gearbox consists of about 40 parts. Here's a pic of some of them, the rest have already been put together :

 
There are even four bolt heads :

 
The finished box :


 
Danny

Thank you all.
 
Fitting the interior skin looked like it may have a problem with alignment. I'm not going to second-guess it, I've made that mistake before, so I've glued it up by aligning a couple of areas where I knew it was right. The pics below show where it looks like the skin falls way short or overlaps - most likely it's actually OK :



 
The Torsion Bar suspension comes next. I could have rolled paper tubes for the bars themselves, but the kit didn't supply any parts for these. Instead they had a template which I would have had to cut from plain paper and paint, or they suggested I could use wire. I chose PVC tubing, which was the right diameter and painted them to match the floor :


 
Some of the side bracing. Once again I used my punch kit to make the holes :

 
The transmission tunnel :

 
Some tiny parts - the wingnuts that close the hatches :


 
Danny
 

Hi Grant, yeah it's a bit different to what I'm used to . This kit also comes with a detailed cockpit and engine compartment, so that will be fun.
 
As I didn't get any laser-cut framing etc for this model I've had to do it the hard way, glue the parts to 1mm card and cut out. I've found it's a lot easier and more accurate to actually glue it to some 0.5mm first, cut out the piece, and then glue it to another 0.5mm card and cut out again (the 2nd time is a lot easier). This ensures a much squarer cut without running off on an angle. I'm using fairly hard card, the "right" stuff is easier to cut but I've run out of large sections of it at the moment :


 
Several parts require an angle to be cut on at least one edge. I use a scalpel to take off the bulk of the material, and finish off with a 150 grit sanding stick :

 
Once the main hull was glued up it came time to fit the outer skin, which comes in one piece. It actually fit quite well :



 
The lit supplies extra parts if you want a more "3D" effect than merely the printed covers etc. The longer pieces in the pic below are slightly rounded using a brass rod and a piece of high-density foam :

 
The start of the suspension :

 
These little (3mm) boxes were a bit more difficult to make than usual because they are double thickness. Despite that they turned out quite well :


 
To avoid damaging the parts that protrude past the floor level while working on the rest of the hull I used double-sided tape to stick on some 4mm thick card packers :

 
Danny

The Gearbox consists of about 40 parts. Here's a pic of some of them, the rest have already been put together :

 
There are even four bolt heads :

 
The finished box :


 
Danny

The Gearbox consists of about 40 parts. Here's a pic of some of them, the rest have already been put together :

 
There are even four bolt heads :

 
The finished box :


 
Danny

The Gearbox consists of about 40 parts. Here's a pic of some of them, the rest have already been put together :

 
There are even four bolt heads :

 
The finished box :


 
Danny

The Gearbox consists of about 40 parts. Here's a pic of some of them, the rest have already been put together :

 
There are even four bolt heads :

 
The finished box :


 
Danny