Dan Vadas

Hi Danny
I'm watching too. Should be an education as your others are!
Belated Happy Birthday from me as well.
Regards,
Russell

The main guns finally complete, just have to throw on 4 triple 25mm's when I do them up. 

Good evening everyone
 
spent quite a bit of time today on the hanger internal details, even though artistic licence applies i am happy with it, especially as when the helo is parked in front of it very little will be seen
 
before being primed i put a cage under the landing

primed with Halfords rattle can grey

then in Citadel white which is quite a flat white
 

using part of the spruce from the Bismark build, i formed a few water pipes  

which then were primed in red and added 
then made a set of hand rails for the landing

and placed into its home for the night

 

Welcome to the build Grant, Slog, Chris and Popeye .
 
I've made a start to the actual build - wow, she's gonna be BIG . Gotta love those laser-cut frames, they've probably saved a week's work all up. These are only the lower frames, there are just as many or more above the waterline.
 
I bought the table it's sitting on just for this build - my workbench isn't really big enough .
 



 
And a comparison with Amatsukaze - they are both 1:200 scale :
 

 
 
  Danny

Thanks for joining in guys, and also for the Birthday wishes .
 
Yep, yellowy coloured Cardboard for the frames - 1mm thick.
 
Jan, I got a nice surprise when I had a look at the laser-cut sheets. There are additional strips already the right shape to be glued to the edges of the waterline "deck" to which the upper and lower skins are glued together (just like the ones I advised you to make ). I'll be gluing extra card to both sides of each bulkhead as well, and also adding longitudinal stringers between the bulkheads. This time I won't be gluing the skins to the stringers though - I think some of the skins on Amatsukaze were pulled in by the glue. They'll just be there to avoid any accidental crushing of the skins.
 
  Danny

Thanks for joining in guys, and also for the Birthday wishes .
 
Yep, yellowy coloured Cardboard for the frames - 1mm thick.
 
Jan, I got a nice surprise when I had a look at the laser-cut sheets. There are additional strips already the right shape to be glued to the edges of the waterline "deck" to which the upper and lower skins are glued together (just like the ones I advised you to make ). I'll be gluing extra card to both sides of each bulkhead as well, and also adding longitudinal stringers between the bulkheads. This time I won't be gluing the skins to the stringers though - I think some of the skins on Amatsukaze were pulled in by the glue. They'll just be there to avoid any accidental crushing of the skins.
 
  Danny

Count me in too... This paper modeling is definitely a different critter than plastic or wood.   
 
Oh... and happy birthday, Danny.   

Thanks for joining in guys, and also for the Birthday wishes .
 
Yep, yellowy coloured Cardboard for the frames - 1mm thick.
 
Jan, I got a nice surprise when I had a look at the laser-cut sheets. There are additional strips already the right shape to be glued to the edges of the waterline "deck" to which the upper and lower skins are glued together (just like the ones I advised you to make ). I'll be gluing extra card to both sides of each bulkhead as well, and also adding longitudinal stringers between the bulkheads. This time I won't be gluing the skins to the stringers though - I think some of the skins on Amatsukaze were pulled in by the glue. They'll just be there to avoid any accidental crushing of the skins.
 
  Danny

Welcome to the build Grant, Slog, Chris and Popeye .
 
I've made a start to the actual build - wow, she's gonna be BIG . Gotta love those laser-cut frames, they've probably saved a week's work all up. These are only the lower frames, there are just as many or more above the waterline.
 
I bought the table it's sitting on just for this build - my workbench isn't really big enough .
 



 
And a comparison with Amatsukaze - they are both 1:200 scale :
 

 
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
I've done some preparations for my latest Card Kit, the famous (infamous? ) German WW2 Battleship "Bismarck". The "Kit" is published by GPM in Poland.
 
My first impressions are that the printing is not quite up to the standard of my IJN Amatsukaze (Halinski), but still quite good. Halinski's models have a more pronounced "weathering" and texturing, widely regarded as one of the best available. The Instructions are once again in Polish, so Google Translate will be getting another workout .
 
As with the Halinski kit there is nothing to indicate on which of the 25 Parts Sheets any of the parts are, so again I've spent a full day filling out a Data-sorted Spreadsheet to enable a quick find of them. This idea worked brilliantly on Amatsukaze, and is well worth the effort :


 
I bought this kit from Pav (maaaslo) - he'd bought it a while ago from GPM but didn't think he'd ever start it. Along with the kit came the Laser Cut frames, a real timesaver . Unfortunately, there was a page missing. No big deal, as one side of the page was merely an Advert for other kits, but all the Instructions were on the reverse side. Luckily, Slog sent me a translation of the missing page, so all's well .
 
I also have all (or at least most of) the extra Laser Cut Detail sets, a big stack of PE for the other details, and the full compliment of turned Gun Barrels.
 
  Danny

Option C will help, but you'll have some trouble gluing the skins on straight. I'd opt for Option A - you need to start straight or you'll face serious problems later on.
 
I tend to agree with your diagnosis - lousy cardboard.
 
  Danny

Kurt
 
We survived the storm ok, no damage to the house other than a few screens blowing off the porch.  A few of my neighbors trees came down, one across the driveway which I turned into small logs by 9am with the chain saw and one on his neighbors house which was next.   The power went out at 9:45 Sunday night and finally came back on Thursday evening.  It was a miserable few days with the heat and humidity.  We have a 5000kw generator so we were able to power our fridges,  a few lights, a fan and a small window ac I took out of my model shop window.  Some people still don't have any power and then there's the flooding.  The machine shop fared pretty well also.  The only damage was a little water blowing under the doors and of course no power until late Thursday night so the CNC's got a mini vacation.  The major damage was caused by me.  i needed an extra sheet of plywood to cover one of our sliding glass doors and there was none to be found at the stores so I removed a piece of the plywood floor I put over the office at the shop. Forgot that I connected all the supports for the suspended ceiling to the underside so when I slid the ply off the ceiling came down.  Spent all day yesterday putting it back up.  The office needed a good cleaning anyway.
 
Jim

For me: the first fix is to remove the set scars from the bandsaw blade on
both surfaces. 
Mine is an under powered 3 wheel bandsaw and my skill in resawing could be better.
Two inch hardwood - especiaaly Hard Maple - strains the 3/4 HP motor and 
dulls the blade more quickly than I like.
My sander is home made using plans from NRG  from years ago - the drum is 11 inches
and the circumference is 8.5 inches - for standard sanding sheets - now I would make it
12 inches - so that I could fit 3 grits of 4 inch cloth backed sanding medium  Klingspor  80/150/220
For the thickness sander =
The goal is to start with a stock thickness that allows a clean
220 finish on both sides - without having to waste much wood to get the
target thickness.
I flip and rotate end to end.  This is using 80 grit.
When I have a clean surface, i sand one side down to 220 and use it as the
table contact.
The other side gets 80 grit passes - with end to end rotation until close to target 
then finish to final with 220.

I have been using Jim's sander for about 12 years or so. Here are some observations:
- Each mark on the adjustment wheel is .002 in. Use a micrometer and measure more than one place on the strip.
- I use one course and one fine grit on the sanding drum. Sand close to finished thickness with the course paper and sneak up on finished thickness with the fine paper. (I just got the 6 inch hold down bar from Jim and use that with 6 inch paper to mill billets wider than 3 inches.)
- +/-  .005 in is good enough for almost all applications. You won't see the difference and you will save a lot of wood.
- Turn the strip over with each pass. This will help to relieve internal stresses and prevent bowing.
- Be careful with boxwood. It's edge will cut you like a razor blade if it slides through your fingers. Don't ask.
- Save all your errors. You will always need a thinner piece somewhere down the line. This goes for the saw as well. You will always need a narrower piece somewhere down the line.
- Try and estimate how much of each size you will need and mill it all (+ 10%) in one set-up. Makes for good consistency.
- USE A DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM OR WEAR A RESPIRATOR. Wood dust can be very toxic.
- Mill ebony outside. You will never get ebony dust out of you shop or off the machine and ebony is toxic.
 
Hope this helps
 

I've used this sander for about a year. Here are my thoughts:
1) It will take many swipes to get even a 1/8 inch reduction. Don't be in a hurry and try to shorten the number of swipes by increasing the turn of the adjustment knob too much.
2) To avoid a potential injury from kickback do not position yourself behind the machine.
3) In order to prevent kickback I use both hands...pushing in and pulling out simultaneously. On the pulling out side, for safety sake, don't grasp the wood until you can get a very good grip.
4) Make sure the wood is completely flat on the platform during the entire process....especially avoid accidental lifting at the end on the pulling side.
5) After a swipe, turn the piece over and swipe it again before changing the adjustment knob. 
6) Check your sandpaper occasionally to make sure there aren't uneven places across the width
7) Usea good micrometer or measuring tool.
8) Once more.....don't be in a hurry.
9) Once more...always be extra careful.

Two of the variables
width of the piece
grit of the sanding medium

the office has been remade (3rd or 4th time) most likely the 10th 
just one door and put a desk inside not that you will ever see it 


and then put a platform in, to see if it looks in scale i taped some of the helo together  

Good evening everyone 
 
the hanger idea did not work for me, when the door is cut the whole superstructure became to flexible, so back to the drawing board
the solution I came up with was to make an internal hanger to fit inside the main body


this has firm everything up and it is removable 
helicopter arrived

 

Welcome to the build Grant, Slog, Chris and Popeye .
 
I've made a start to the actual build - wow, she's gonna be BIG . Gotta love those laser-cut frames, they've probably saved a week's work all up. These are only the lower frames, there are just as many or more above the waterline.
 
I bought the table it's sitting on just for this build - my workbench isn't really big enough .
 



 
And a comparison with Amatsukaze - they are both 1:200 scale :
 

 
 
  Danny

WOW, he's a monster, Dan. (German ships were/are termed a he) I'll be in the crew for this one, too. And Happy Birthday, mate!

Happy Birthday Dan 
You are starting to turn out ships faster than Kizer did in the USA in WW2!!!!
Wonderful to see and get so many updates, rapid progress and variety
All the best
Andy 

In the meantime I have made the plankshear.  This is made of three pieces of plank, scarfed together.  There are mortises for the three gun supports and the edge has a decorative molding on the inside and outside faces.  In order to get the molding to flow across the joints, I make and temporarily installed the planksheer.  Next I popped it off the timbers, leaving the joints intact.  I was now able to cut the molding in one sweep with the scraper.  The photo shows the three pieces glued together and removed from the model.  This actually is a discarded piece as I forgot to extend it to the midline and I did not like the shape of the hance.
 

 
Once this was glued into place, I cut mortises for the timberheads and installed them.  
 

 

 

The Rigging is all finished, it only took about 3 hours .




 
The last thing to be fitted is the one I usually try to leave to the end - the Ensign, or whatever the Japanese equivalent is . I just noticed that the railing at the stern is bent, good thing I took this pic or I may have missed it :

 
And here are a couple of pics of the finished ship. I'll be putting more into the Gallery :



 
Total time to build was exactly 3 months, about 6 months less than I was expecting it to take . Next up will be Bismarck, starting tomorrow.
 
  Danny

Welcome to the build Grant, Slog, Chris and Popeye .
 
I've made a start to the actual build - wow, she's gonna be BIG . Gotta love those laser-cut frames, they've probably saved a week's work all up. These are only the lower frames, there are just as many or more above the waterline.
 
I bought the table it's sitting on just for this build - my workbench isn't really big enough .
 



 
And a comparison with Amatsukaze - they are both 1:200 scale :
 

 
 
  Danny

David, I must have missed that bit when I built Vulture - no wonder I had a few problems fitting my Fish Davit .
 
  Danny