Dan Vadas

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

Nice plumbing work, Danny.   The loco is really coming together wonderfully.

Thanks Caroline  .
 
Now I could fit the two forward sections of the boilers together. The join is behind one of the black "real" joining strips. They lined up perfectly  :



The next step will be the start of the cabin.
 
Danny

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

Thanks Caroline  .
 
Now I could fit the two forward sections of the boilers together. The join is behind one of the black "real" joining strips. They lined up perfectly  :



The next step will be the start of the cabin.
 
Danny

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

Thanks Caroline  .
 
Now I could fit the two forward sections of the boilers together. The join is behind one of the black "real" joining strips. They lined up perfectly  :



The next step will be the start of the cabin.
 
Danny

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

Thanks Caroline  .
 
Now I could fit the two forward sections of the boilers together. The join is behind one of the black "real" joining strips. They lined up perfectly  :



The next step will be the start of the cabin.
 
Danny

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

Thanks Caroline  .
 
Now I could fit the two forward sections of the boilers together. The join is behind one of the black "real" joining strips. They lined up perfectly  :



The next step will be the start of the cabin.
 
Danny

Thanks Caroline  .
 
Now I could fit the two forward sections of the boilers together. The join is behind one of the black "real" joining strips. They lined up perfectly  :



The next step will be the start of the cabin.
 
Danny

Thanks Caroline  .
 
Now I could fit the two forward sections of the boilers together. The join is behind one of the black "real" joining strips. They lined up perfectly  :



The next step will be the start of the cabin.
 
Danny

Wow - Just.... wow!

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

And thank you David and Phil  .
 
The plumbing is made from 3 sizes of brass rod - 2.0mm, 1.5mm and 1.0mm. I annealed it before attempting to make the bends. The most complex bend took me over an hour to get it ready for blackening with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black. I installed these pieces now before fitting the sections of boiler together :




Some type of safety blow-off valve perhaps ?

Also before fitting the boiler sections together I finished off as much of the front plate as I could :


Danny

Simply amazing!

Thanks for dropping in again guys  .
 
"It might be possible with a bit of trickery to make the model work on air."
Michael, none of my models are "powered" by anything more than my hand or fingers. I'm not about to start now   . Electric (battery) power would be the only option I would consider, but I'm way past the stage of installing anything like that.
 
The sandboxes and safety valves on top of the boilers. These have domed tops which came out well thanks in part to the preparation work I did. The rounded part of the extra card infill was first cut almost to shape with a scalpel (right) before final sanding with a sanding stick (left) :

At a quick glance the ends of the tabs on the skins looked straight - they weren't  :

The boxes fitted to the two boiler sections :


This next piece - the compressor - took me two full days to make. There are 28 separate sections in the fins alone :

A jig made alignment a little easier :

The glued fin section before any final finishing :

Some of the fins were very slightly larger or smaller than others (I'm talking 0.2mm at worst) but the differences were noticeable so I cut and filed them all to the same size :

It still needed a bit of cleaning up with a tapered piece of wood :


The finished compressor :



The start of thousands of 0.8mm rivets :

 
Danny

Thanks for dropping in again guys  .
 
"It might be possible with a bit of trickery to make the model work on air."
Michael, none of my models are "powered" by anything more than my hand or fingers. I'm not about to start now   . Electric (battery) power would be the only option I would consider, but I'm way past the stage of installing anything like that.
 
The sandboxes and safety valves on top of the boilers. These have domed tops which came out well thanks in part to the preparation work I did. The rounded part of the extra card infill was first cut almost to shape with a scalpel (right) before final sanding with a sanding stick (left) :

At a quick glance the ends of the tabs on the skins looked straight - they weren't  :

The boxes fitted to the two boiler sections :


This next piece - the compressor - took me two full days to make. There are 28 separate sections in the fins alone :

A jig made alignment a little easier :

The glued fin section before any final finishing :

Some of the fins were very slightly larger or smaller than others (I'm talking 0.2mm at worst) but the differences were noticeable so I cut and filed them all to the same size :

It still needed a bit of cleaning up with a tapered piece of wood :


The finished compressor :



The start of thousands of 0.8mm rivets :

 
Danny

Thanks for dropping in again guys  .
 
"It might be possible with a bit of trickery to make the model work on air."
Michael, none of my models are "powered" by anything more than my hand or fingers. I'm not about to start now   . Electric (battery) power would be the only option I would consider, but I'm way past the stage of installing anything like that.
 
The sandboxes and safety valves on top of the boilers. These have domed tops which came out well thanks in part to the preparation work I did. The rounded part of the extra card infill was first cut almost to shape with a scalpel (right) before final sanding with a sanding stick (left) :

At a quick glance the ends of the tabs on the skins looked straight - they weren't  :

The boxes fitted to the two boiler sections :


This next piece - the compressor - took me two full days to make. There are 28 separate sections in the fins alone :

A jig made alignment a little easier :

The glued fin section before any final finishing :

Some of the fins were very slightly larger or smaller than others (I'm talking 0.2mm at worst) but the differences were noticeable so I cut and filed them all to the same size :

It still needed a bit of cleaning up with a tapered piece of wood :


The finished compressor :



The start of thousands of 0.8mm rivets :

 
Danny

Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling  .
 
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet"  .
 
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :



Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :

The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :

Danny
 
 

Good luck with that model Caroline, it looks a reasonably "easy" one to try as a first loco (if any are actually easy  ). I think you'll find the Modelik kit to be quite a good one, detailing is nice and the instruction diagrams are understandable. It seems you've avoided a kit with a couple of thousand rivets, instead you have a couple of hundred louvres to cut   .
 
Take a look through THESE PICS of a finished model of one. They may come in useful for your build.
 
P.S. A laser-cut Rail set is also available, makes a nice "stand" for the loco.
 
Cheers, Danny

Very compressive - I mean impressive, Dan!