Dan Vadas

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much John, Colin, Doris and Popeye .
 
Fitting the Channels perfectly horizontally was accomplished by the use of a couple of specially made "jigs" that sit on the planksheers from one side to the other. Masking tape and clamps hold the jigs firmly in position. The leg glued to the underneath of the horizontal member was measured at the inboard edge and cut square.
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for all the kind comments Geoff, Grant, Greg, Nils, John, Joe, David, Steve, Christian, Carl, Janos, Johann, E&T and Padeen, and also for all those who "Liked" my last post .
 
I somehow made a measurement error on the Mizzen Crosstrees, and subsequently had to remove all the pieces of the top (apart from the Battens), make new crosstrees and refit the lot. I'm very happy with the results now .... that kind of thing would have caused all sorts of problems later on.
 
Topmasts
 
The Topmasts are a bit trickier to shape than the lower masts. Starting from the bottom they have an octagonal shape, then a square, another octagon, a tapered round for most of it's section, a tapered octagon and a tapered square topped by the tenon for the topmast cap. It all sounds very difficult, but it was surprisingly easy (although time consuming). As with the lower masts most of the work was done with a chisel, rounding the middle section with sandpaper.
 

 
I made the Fids from brass strip. The rectangular holes were cut with a very narrow chisel after first drilling two small holes :
 

 

 

 

 
Two slots were cut for the Top Rope sheaves, which were turned from brass :
 

 

 
  Danny

25' Cutters Ver 2_5 continued
 
The next step for the cutters was to create some mast support bands to attach to the thwarts.  Each cutter has two of these.  I used some thin brass strap and bent them to shape by using a jig, the idea for which I "borrowed" from Ian Major's lovely Unicorn log.  Ian machined his in metal, however I cheated and used MDF for the pressing surfaces, with a brass rod inserted as the former.
 

 
After blackening, they were attached to the thwarts, which had been shaped for the other half of the "hole".  In this pic, the thwart hasn't been finished sanded yet.
 

 
After that, it was a simple matter of cutting the stern sheets, which I did using a paper template and cutting from a single piece of 1/32" pear stock, and then finessed to fit.  The remaining thwarts were cut to size and finish sanded, putting a slight bevel/curve on the upper outside edges.  The timber was left natural, only polished with successively finer grades of sandpaper.  I also installed mast steps under the appropriate thwarts - you can just make these out in the photos.  And here is a finished Cutter.  The macro lens is not my friend today!  I swear those blemishes on the cap rail aren't visible to the naked eye!!!
 

 
Here's a picture alongside the 28' Pinnace for comparison.  Note the very different hull shapes.
 

 
And here's both Cutters, with my usual "scaling" shot:
 

 
The Cutters (and all boats) are now FINISHED!!!!!!  Doin' the Happy Dance!      
 
To celebrate, I thought I'd take a few shots of my Lilliputian Fleet. I had to remove the Launch from it's home on the "mother ship" for these shots, and was surprised by how large it looks in comparison to the others.
 

 

 

 

 
And finally, one last "scaling shot"
 

 
That's it for ship's boats.  I do not intend to make either the Barge or the Jolly Boat.
 
Next up, fitting the Quarter Davits, finish and fit the Anchors, and install rope coils throughout.  Almost there..........
 
 

Thanks, Kees.  We are usually our own worst critics.
 
Now that the sheer strake is installed, it is time to attack the fixed blocks.  There are two fixed blocks that pierce the hull.  One of them has two sheaves and the other only one.  They are pretty straight-forward in construction.  First the block's shell is cut and dry-fit.  Next the slots for the sheaves are marked out, drilled and then finished with needle files.  The hole for the pin is drilled and the block is put back into the hull.  It is much easier to drill the slots for the sheaves prior to shaping the sides.  The inner and outer faces are sanded to conform to the shape of the tumblehome.  I made the sheaves from ebony that I drilled out and shaped with chisels and sandpaper.  Finally, they were sawn to thickness and installed.  In the pictures there is too much contrast between the woods to actually see the sheave withing the slot.  The blocks were removed, the sheaves and pin inserted and glued with CA, and the assembly was glued in place in the hull.
 
    
 
The first photo shows the blocks glued and sanded in place.  In the second photo the wood has been wiped down with a damp cloth to highlight the treenails.  The slots on the inboard face need a little more cleaning up.
 

 

 

 
The final appearance.  I still have to insert some of the gun port liners but overall I think it looks pretty good.
 

 

 
 

Thank you mhegazi, and a warm welcome to MSW to you Mark .
 
Forecastle Railings
 
I'm nearly at the stage of "Stepping" the Foremast, but I realised that it would be nearly impossible to fit the Forecastle Railings if the Shrouds were already fitted, so this was my next step.

The Stanchions have a wide flair at the bottom, so to simulate that I silver soldered some 1.6mm tubing (ID of 0.85mm) to the bottom of some 0.8mm brass wire. I calculated the length of each stanchion first - none are the same length.

Then I soldered a piece of 0.6mm ID tubing to the top of each stanchion for the Eye through which the rope will pass :
 

 
I made the eyes a little on the large size to make soldering easier, then filed them down to the correct size :
 

 
The top rope has an eye seized into one end, and a lashing at the fore end secures it :
 

 

 
The aft end terminates with a seizing on an eyebolt :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

A bit of extra time at the museum of late has allowed me to get ahead with the Pritt.
 
The counter rim frame is now roughed in and will stay like this until after hull planking, at which time I'll finish fairing it in properly.
 
I've also made a start on the deck beams.  Once these are completed I can start to think about planking the hull.
 
John
 




 
 

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny