Dan Vadas

Thanks Brian and Adeline.
 
 
None that are as black. It was more to do with my cutting technique I think - I probably didn't have the lathe speed fast enough and the feed too fast. No real problem though (apart from finding the pieces ) - here's the finished result after sanding the ring flush :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks John and Mark .
 
Next comes the Trundle Head - this is made from four pieces of timber. Two are edge-glued to make the 1'9" wide piece needed. I made sure the grain was running in different directions to make it stand out as two actual pieces later. The other two were treated in similar fashion.
 
NOTE: I didn't really need to do this for the trundlehead, but I thought it would be a good practice for the Upper Capstan's Drumhead which is a lot more visible - turns out it was, I made a setup error that would have stood out later on.
 
Then I turned up a "dummy shaft" which could be chucked in the 3-jaw chuck. I spot-glued the head to it for the machining work.
 
The square cuts for the Capstan Bars were milled in next, using the dividing head again. Not possessing a mill cutter of the required diameter (0.73mm) I used a 0.38" slitting saw which needed setting up twice for each cut :
 


 
Then I chucked both parts of the Capstan Barrel complete with Whelps and Chocks back into the lathe and trimmed down all the chocks. I also used a Boring Bar to take out the inside diameter of the trundle head where it fits to the barrel. I should have done this earlier while it was still in the lathe, but no biggie - it was still glued to the dummy shaft. I separated the head from the dummy shaft with Isopropyl :
 


 
The lower chocks in each section have a Concave outer edge. I filed these in with a half-round needle file :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks Brian and Adeline.
 
 
None that are as black. It was more to do with my cutting technique I think - I probably didn't have the lathe speed fast enough and the feed too fast. No real problem though (apart from finding the pieces ) - here's the finished result after sanding the ring flush :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks for dropping in again Christian, John, David, Sjors and David . Yeah, it reminded me of a Rubic's Cube or Chinese Puzzle when I took the pics .
 
 
37 so far David - there are quite a few more to come   .
 
Here's the next stage of the Trundlehead and Drumhead. I've glued the two pieces of trundlehead together and turned out the recess for an "iron" strengthening ring. This will be made from Ebony. There are actually two of these for each head - one in the lower section and one in the upper of both. I'm only doing the upper ones, as the lower ones can't be seen. I've also milled out the ten slots for the Upper Capstan Bars into the Drumhead :
 


 
I turned the ebony ("iron") ring about three times thicker than needed - it still snapped into 5 pieces on the final cut   . It took a while to find the pieces around the lathe, and a bit longer to sort out which one went where, but they eventually fitted into place with very little sign of breakage. I'll sand them flush on the lathe after the glue dries. I'm hoping for a better result for the very visible Drumhead rings :
 


 
  Danny

Thanks for the tip Harvey. Actually, if you hold the drawplate nice and flat on the sandpaper the holes should all be enlarged by the same amount - that's not really a problem. You'd have to allow for this on the Byrnes drawplate which has the hole sizes marked next to them and simply shift to the next size smaller hole (or two) which would now be the correct size.
 
It would take quite a bit of sanding to get anywhere though - that Byrnes plate is VERY hard steel .
 
  Danny

Bamboo. Actually, it's not a wood - it's a grass. The perfectly straight grain and it's toughness make it relatively easy to pull through a drawplate. It also accepts a stain to a certain degree - I give the piece to be drawn a wipe with Walnut stain before inserting the treenails - it gives them a more realistic appearance.
 
  Danny

Thanks for the tip Harvey. Actually, if you hold the drawplate nice and flat on the sandpaper the holes should all be enlarged by the same amount - that's not really a problem. You'd have to allow for this on the Byrnes drawplate which has the hole sizes marked next to them and simply shift to the next size smaller hole (or two) which would now be the correct size.
 
It would take quite a bit of sanding to get anywhere though - that Byrnes plate is VERY hard steel .
 
  Danny

Thanks for dropping in again Christian, John, David, Sjors and David . Yeah, it reminded me of a Rubic's Cube or Chinese Puzzle when I took the pics .
 
 
37 so far David - there are quite a few more to come   .
 
Here's the next stage of the Trundlehead and Drumhead. I've glued the two pieces of trundlehead together and turned out the recess for an "iron" strengthening ring. This will be made from Ebony. There are actually two of these for each head - one in the lower section and one in the upper of both. I'm only doing the upper ones, as the lower ones can't be seen. I've also milled out the ten slots for the Upper Capstan Bars into the Drumhead :
 


 
I turned the ebony ("iron") ring about three times thicker than needed - it still snapped into 5 pieces on the final cut   . It took a while to find the pieces around the lathe, and a bit longer to sort out which one went where, but they eventually fitted into place with very little sign of breakage. I'll sand them flush on the lathe after the glue dries. I'm hoping for a better result for the very visible Drumhead rings :
 


 
  Danny

Thanks for looking in Christian. BTW - there are four eyebolts immediately either side of the Main Mast and three on each side adjacent to it that should also be drilled and fitted before any work begins on the Pump Cranks. I'll drill these now and show you the updates later.
 
Hi all,
 
The final part of the Chain Pump setup - I've glued in the Pillars at the aft ends of the cranks. I was bumping and bending the aft ends of the cranks quite a bit, so I figured it was time to stabilize the whole structure. This meant fitting the 3rd Quarterdeck Beam as well :
 

 

 
My Aft Hatch is a little out of alignment - it's actually 2mm too short. I knew this a while ago - the problem is much further down. The Lower Well was slightly too far forward (2mm to be precise) and things further upwards had to be shifted to accommodate this. I'm not about to rip up two decks to fix an otherwise minor error properly .
 
  Danny

Thanks John and Mark .
 
Next comes the Trundle Head - this is made from four pieces of timber. Two are edge-glued to make the 1'9" wide piece needed. I made sure the grain was running in different directions to make it stand out as two actual pieces later. The other two were treated in similar fashion.
 
NOTE: I didn't really need to do this for the trundlehead, but I thought it would be a good practice for the Upper Capstan's Drumhead which is a lot more visible - turns out it was, I made a setup error that would have stood out later on.
 
Then I turned up a "dummy shaft" which could be chucked in the 3-jaw chuck. I spot-glued the head to it for the machining work.
 
The square cuts for the Capstan Bars were milled in next, using the dividing head again. Not possessing a mill cutter of the required diameter (0.73mm) I used a 0.38" slitting saw which needed setting up twice for each cut :
 


 
Then I chucked both parts of the Capstan Barrel complete with Whelps and Chocks back into the lathe and trimmed down all the chocks. I also used a Boring Bar to take out the inside diameter of the trundle head where it fits to the barrel. I should have done this earlier while it was still in the lathe, but no biggie - it was still glued to the dummy shaft. I separated the head from the dummy shaft with Isopropyl :
 


 
The lower chocks in each section have a Concave outer edge. I filed these in with a half-round needle file :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you John and Grant - you ain't seen nuthin' yet .
 
Next trick was making the Chocks. The five lower Lower Capstan ones are 3 3/4" thick, the six lower Upper Capstan ones are 3 1/8" and both sets of upper chocks are 2" thick - keeping them separate was a trick .
 
The chocks taper inwards and are also bevelled for the scarphs. The upper capstan ones have a slightly different angle to the lower ones. I started by sanding one edge on the Byrnes disc sander using both the angle gauge and tilt table. Then I cut them all to width on the Byrnes saw using the angle gauge for the other edge, and freehand sanded the bevel into each one :
 

 

 
Then I glued the Whelps and Chocks to the Barrels :
 

 

 
 
I left all the chocks oversize on the outer edges at this stage. They will be turned down to size in the next stage :
 
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks John and Mark .
 
Next comes the Trundle Head - this is made from four pieces of timber. Two are edge-glued to make the 1'9" wide piece needed. I made sure the grain was running in different directions to make it stand out as two actual pieces later. The other two were treated in similar fashion.
 
NOTE: I didn't really need to do this for the trundlehead, but I thought it would be a good practice for the Upper Capstan's Drumhead which is a lot more visible - turns out it was, I made a setup error that would have stood out later on.
 
Then I turned up a "dummy shaft" which could be chucked in the 3-jaw chuck. I spot-glued the head to it for the machining work.
 
The square cuts for the Capstan Bars were milled in next, using the dividing head again. Not possessing a mill cutter of the required diameter (0.73mm) I used a 0.38" slitting saw which needed setting up twice for each cut :
 


 
Then I chucked both parts of the Capstan Barrel complete with Whelps and Chocks back into the lathe and trimmed down all the chocks. I also used a Boring Bar to take out the inside diameter of the trundle head where it fits to the barrel. I should have done this earlier while it was still in the lathe, but no biggie - it was still glued to the dummy shaft. I separated the head from the dummy shaft with Isopropyl :
 


 
The lower chocks in each section have a Concave outer edge. I filed these in with a half-round needle file :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks John and Mark .
 
Next comes the Trundle Head - this is made from four pieces of timber. Two are edge-glued to make the 1'9" wide piece needed. I made sure the grain was running in different directions to make it stand out as two actual pieces later. The other two were treated in similar fashion.
 
NOTE: I didn't really need to do this for the trundlehead, but I thought it would be a good practice for the Upper Capstan's Drumhead which is a lot more visible - turns out it was, I made a setup error that would have stood out later on.
 
Then I turned up a "dummy shaft" which could be chucked in the 3-jaw chuck. I spot-glued the head to it for the machining work.
 
The square cuts for the Capstan Bars were milled in next, using the dividing head again. Not possessing a mill cutter of the required diameter (0.73mm) I used a 0.38" slitting saw which needed setting up twice for each cut :
 


 
Then I chucked both parts of the Capstan Barrel complete with Whelps and Chocks back into the lathe and trimmed down all the chocks. I also used a Boring Bar to take out the inside diameter of the trundle head where it fits to the barrel. I should have done this earlier while it was still in the lathe, but no biggie - it was still glued to the dummy shaft. I separated the head from the dummy shaft with Isopropyl :
 


 
The lower chocks in each section have a Concave outer edge. I filed these in with a half-round needle file :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you John and Grant - you ain't seen nuthin' yet .
 
Next trick was making the Chocks. The five lower Lower Capstan ones are 3 3/4" thick, the six lower Upper Capstan ones are 3 1/8" and both sets of upper chocks are 2" thick - keeping them separate was a trick .
 
The chocks taper inwards and are also bevelled for the scarphs. The upper capstan ones have a slightly different angle to the lower ones. I started by sanding one edge on the Byrnes disc sander using both the angle gauge and tilt table. Then I cut them all to width on the Byrnes saw using the angle gauge for the other edge, and freehand sanded the bevel into each one :
 

 

 
Then I glued the Whelps and Chocks to the Barrels :
 

 

 
 
I left all the chocks oversize on the outer edges at this stage. They will be turned down to size in the next stage :
 
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks John and Mark .
 
Next comes the Trundle Head - this is made from four pieces of timber. Two are edge-glued to make the 1'9" wide piece needed. I made sure the grain was running in different directions to make it stand out as two actual pieces later. The other two were treated in similar fashion.
 
NOTE: I didn't really need to do this for the trundlehead, but I thought it would be a good practice for the Upper Capstan's Drumhead which is a lot more visible - turns out it was, I made a setup error that would have stood out later on.
 
Then I turned up a "dummy shaft" which could be chucked in the 3-jaw chuck. I spot-glued the head to it for the machining work.
 
The square cuts for the Capstan Bars were milled in next, using the dividing head again. Not possessing a mill cutter of the required diameter (0.73mm) I used a 0.38" slitting saw which needed setting up twice for each cut :
 


 
Then I chucked both parts of the Capstan Barrel complete with Whelps and Chocks back into the lathe and trimmed down all the chocks. I also used a Boring Bar to take out the inside diameter of the trundle head where it fits to the barrel. I should have done this earlier while it was still in the lathe, but no biggie - it was still glued to the dummy shaft. I separated the head from the dummy shaft with Isopropyl :
 


 
The lower chocks in each section have a Concave outer edge. I filed these in with a half-round needle file :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you John and Grant - you ain't seen nuthin' yet .
 
Next trick was making the Chocks. The five lower Lower Capstan ones are 3 3/4" thick, the six lower Upper Capstan ones are 3 1/8" and both sets of upper chocks are 2" thick - keeping them separate was a trick .
 
The chocks taper inwards and are also bevelled for the scarphs. The upper capstan ones have a slightly different angle to the lower ones. I started by sanding one edge on the Byrnes disc sander using both the angle gauge and tilt table. Then I cut them all to width on the Byrnes saw using the angle gauge for the other edge, and freehand sanded the bevel into each one :
 

 

 
Then I glued the Whelps and Chocks to the Barrels :
 

 

 
 
I left all the chocks oversize on the outer edges at this stage. They will be turned down to size in the next stage :
 
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for looking in Christian. BTW - there are four eyebolts immediately either side of the Main Mast and three on each side adjacent to it that should also be drilled and fitted before any work begins on the Pump Cranks. I'll drill these now and show you the updates later.
 
Hi all,
 
The final part of the Chain Pump setup - I've glued in the Pillars at the aft ends of the cranks. I was bumping and bending the aft ends of the cranks quite a bit, so I figured it was time to stabilize the whole structure. This meant fitting the 3rd Quarterdeck Beam as well :
 

 

 
My Aft Hatch is a little out of alignment - it's actually 2mm too short. I knew this a while ago - the problem is much further down. The Lower Well was slightly too far forward (2mm to be precise) and things further upwards had to be shifted to accommodate this. I'm not about to rip up two decks to fix an otherwise minor error properly .
 
  Danny

Yeah John, I'm pretty happy with the amount of work I did this weekend - especially with how detailed all this is .
 
Hi all,
 
The last couple of things for the Pumps - two Bungs, complete with handles, and the Latch that secures the Cistern Hood :
 

 

 
  Danny

Forward Stanchions, Cistern Hood and Pump Dale
 
Hi all,
 
The last few things for the Pump Assemblies (almost) - I've made the Forward support Stanchions, the port side Cistern Hood and the Pump Dale for the same side. None will be fitted to the starboard side.
 
The Stanchions support the forward ends of the Cranks :
 

 

 
The Cistern Hood is made from 1mm thick side pieces and 0.35mm boards over the top :
 

 

 
The Pump Dale is a removable item on the real ship - it would be a constant trip hazard otherwise. It is made from four pieces of 0.5mm thick timber, and attaches to the cistern via a board which can be lifted upwards :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you John and Grant - you ain't seen nuthin' yet .
 
Next trick was making the Chocks. The five lower Lower Capstan ones are 3 3/4" thick, the six lower Upper Capstan ones are 3 1/8" and both sets of upper chocks are 2" thick - keeping them separate was a trick .
 
The chocks taper inwards and are also bevelled for the scarphs. The upper capstan ones have a slightly different angle to the lower ones. I started by sanding one edge on the Byrnes disc sander using both the angle gauge and tilt table. Then I cut them all to width on the Byrnes saw using the angle gauge for the other edge, and freehand sanded the bevel into each one :
 

 

 
Then I glued the Whelps and Chocks to the Barrels :
 

 

 
 
I left all the chocks oversize on the outer edges at this stage. They will be turned down to size in the next stage :
 
 

 

 
  Danny

Capstans
 
The start of the Capstans. There are two of them - the Lower Capstan on the Upper Deck, and the Upper Capstan on the Quarterdeck above it. They are joined together between decks to work as one. I'm using English Box for all the components - some of them are quite small and require a very good timber.
 
The Lower Capstan Barrel has 10 flats milled into it to take 5 Whelps, and the Upper Capstan has 12 flats and 6 whelps. I decided to turn and mill both together for ease of setting up. They will be separated between decks for installation purposes.
 
I used the Dividing Attachment on my Sherline mill to cut the flats :
 

 

 
Then I turned down the centre portion :
 

 

 
I've also started making the Whelps. The ones for the Upper and Lower Capstans are of different sizes, there is also a corresponding difference in angles. I'm also using the Mill to cut the angles, with the aid of the Tilting Table :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much for the kind comments Eric and Frank .
 
Continuing on with the Capstan, the next job was to finish shaping the Whelps. Looking from above they form a wedge shape, with the outer edge 2" thicker than the inner. To cut these angles I made a wedge-shaped block of scrap timber which I lightly PVA'd to the underside of the piece that I'd Milled the faces to. I cut one edge on all 11 pieces, then I used Isopropyl to remove the wedge, let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly, and glued it back to the opposite side to cut the other angle :
 

 

 

 

 
After cutting them all to length I set the saw blade to protrude just 0.25mm above the bed. I carefully marked the positions of two of the Chock Scarphs in one each of the Upper and Lower Whelps (there is a slight difference in them), set the fence to the first cut and did all of them. Then I reset the fence for the other 3 measurements and cut all the remaining ones :
 

 
The two on the left in the pic above have only been cut on the saw. The two on the right have had the Mortices cut into them. I used a #11 Xacto to cut the angles - they were quite easy to do, owing to the saw cuts.
 
Another pic showing the wedge-shapes of the whelps :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much for the kind comments Eric and Frank .
 
Continuing on with the Capstan, the next job was to finish shaping the Whelps. Looking from above they form a wedge shape, with the outer edge 2" thicker than the inner. To cut these angles I made a wedge-shaped block of scrap timber which I lightly PVA'd to the underside of the piece that I'd Milled the faces to. I cut one edge on all 11 pieces, then I used Isopropyl to remove the wedge, let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly, and glued it back to the opposite side to cut the other angle :
 

 

 

 

 
After cutting them all to length I set the saw blade to protrude just 0.25mm above the bed. I carefully marked the positions of two of the Chock Scarphs in one each of the Upper and Lower Whelps (there is a slight difference in them), set the fence to the first cut and did all of them. Then I reset the fence for the other 3 measurements and cut all the remaining ones :
 

 
The two on the left in the pic above have only been cut on the saw. The two on the right have had the Mortices cut into them. I used a #11 Xacto to cut the angles - they were quite easy to do, owing to the saw cuts.
 
Another pic showing the wedge-shapes of the whelps :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much for the kind comments Eric and Frank .
 
Continuing on with the Capstan, the next job was to finish shaping the Whelps. Looking from above they form a wedge shape, with the outer edge 2" thicker than the inner. To cut these angles I made a wedge-shaped block of scrap timber which I lightly PVA'd to the underside of the piece that I'd Milled the faces to. I cut one edge on all 11 pieces, then I used Isopropyl to remove the wedge, let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly, and glued it back to the opposite side to cut the other angle :
 

 

 

 

 
After cutting them all to length I set the saw blade to protrude just 0.25mm above the bed. I carefully marked the positions of two of the Chock Scarphs in one each of the Upper and Lower Whelps (there is a slight difference in them), set the fence to the first cut and did all of them. Then I reset the fence for the other 3 measurements and cut all the remaining ones :
 

 
The two on the left in the pic above have only been cut on the saw. The two on the right have had the Mortices cut into them. I used a #11 Xacto to cut the angles - they were quite easy to do, owing to the saw cuts.
 
Another pic showing the wedge-shapes of the whelps :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much for the kind comments Eric and Frank .
 
Continuing on with the Capstan, the next job was to finish shaping the Whelps. Looking from above they form a wedge shape, with the outer edge 2" thicker than the inner. To cut these angles I made a wedge-shaped block of scrap timber which I lightly PVA'd to the underside of the piece that I'd Milled the faces to. I cut one edge on all 11 pieces, then I used Isopropyl to remove the wedge, let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly, and glued it back to the opposite side to cut the other angle :
 

 

 

 

 
After cutting them all to length I set the saw blade to protrude just 0.25mm above the bed. I carefully marked the positions of two of the Chock Scarphs in one each of the Upper and Lower Whelps (there is a slight difference in them), set the fence to the first cut and did all of them. Then I reset the fence for the other 3 measurements and cut all the remaining ones :
 

 
The two on the left in the pic above have only been cut on the saw. The two on the right have had the Mortices cut into them. I used a #11 Xacto to cut the angles - they were quite easy to do, owing to the saw cuts.
 
Another pic showing the wedge-shapes of the whelps :
 

 
  Danny