Dan Vadas

Thank you Brian and Wayne, and all those who hit the "Like" Button .
 
The majority of the hull and deck planking is now completed. It was a lot of fun, and I got better at it as I went, but it was also very tedious work at times and I'm glad that stage is over with. Now come the more "interesting" parts of the build .
 
Gun Rigging Redo
 
Before going any further I figured it was about time I re-did the Rigging on the four guns in the waist that are completely visible. You may recall that I mentioned earlier that I wasn't 100% satisfied with the ropes that I'd used at the time. Now that I have the excellent rigging line from Chuck (Syren Ship Models) I'm going ahead with it.
 
I won't attempt to do the four guns under the forecastle and quarterdeck, as the rigging is barely visible and it would be extremely difficult to do them anyway. What can be seen of the rigging on these guns is quite acceptable to me.
 
I started by brushing Isopropyl Alcohol on the glue holding the trucks to the deck, and also the eyebolts for the breeching line. All pieces came off the ship easily. Then I did the same for the seizings on both breeching lines and side tackles. I wanted one piece of each intact to use for measurements. Again, everything came apart easily :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for looking in, and the kind words John, Michael, Grant, Joe, Nils, Randy, Jeff, Gerty, Ron and Ben - much appreciated .
 
Bulwark Spirketting
 
I've fitted all the Bulwark Spirketting that I intend to do. The Port side is completely covered, and I've fitted half of them to the Starboard side Quarterdeck to cover an error I made very early in the build - about eight of the frame Toptimbers were a couple of millimetres short. I didn't discover this until WELL after the time had passed to correct them .
 

 

 
The piece above the Cathead was rather interesting to make :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for that link to the LoS Grant, I'll get some from them.
 
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Planking
 
The Forecastle and Quarterdeck have been planked. Both decks have tapered planks as well as a couple of Dropped planks each. Here are some progress pics :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
At this stage none of the planks have been sanded - these pics were taken just after the last two were glued in. The "caulking" smudges will all sand out evenly. There are one or two very small gaps which will be filled with a sawdust/glue mixture.
 
Treenailing is next.
 
  Danny

John, you're forgiven - if I was building at 1:96 scale as well I'd have faked them too .
 
Thank you Brian, Aldo, Sjors, David, Pat and Grant .
 
Cathead Caps
 
I mentioned the Cathead Caps a couple of posts ago - here's how I made them, which is a bit different to the method described in TFFM.
 
First I cut the two pieces for the caps from English Box. I glued these two pieces to a block of scrap to make handling/turning/carving a lot easier. I turned the central boss into each piece :
 

 
Next I sanded the four edges to an angle to taper the "rays" and marked them out :
 

 
I carved out the sections between each ray with an Xacto and my favorite modified Chiselpoint :
 

 

 
Last jobs were to cut the cap off the "holder" with the table saw, glue the cap to the end of the cathead and sand the edges at the appropriate angles. The catheads are now glued into the ship. Note that the cap is slightly larger than the cathead. Please excuse the poor quality of this pic - I had four attempts at taking it and this was the best I could do (bad lighting at that angle) :
 

 
  Danny

Very nice.
And now the plane around it
 
Jan

Looks fantastic 

very delicate.........amazing in the way you kept the shape!   the nose ring is a perfect circle     awesomely done!

on board as well     this should be so cool!

Thanks Pav. The card is actually held down with very thin double-sided tape, not glued.
 
The rocker covers :


 
There were no exhaust pipes with the kit so I printed out the ones from the Spitfire. These took me two days to make, but I'm very happy with the way they turned out  :



 
Danny

Thank you all. This model is now finished, here are the final pics including the lower tank and some skin bracing.
 
Here are the parts for the bracing - lots of careful cutting. I cut one side of each piece first, applied a little CA glue and then cut the other side. This prevented the piece from distorting as some of them were only 0.3mm wide and were very difficult to cut :


 
Here are the finished pics :







 
Danny

Beautiful job Ed. A masterpiece of a model and a great build log. I've enjoyed every update  .
 
Danny

Hi all, 
 
My latest Card model - A Halinski kit of a Russian Mi24D Helicopter. Here are the pics of the cover page, 2 of the 3 pages of the  laser-cut pieces, resin wheels and a preformed canopy :




 
This is going to be my most difficult card model to date. There are over 4,000 pieces (HMS Hood had about 2,500), some of them half the size of the smallest I've done so far. This should be FUN  .
 
Danny

Thank you all. This model is now finished, here are the final pics including the lower tank and some skin bracing.
 
Here are the parts for the bracing - lots of careful cutting. I cut one side of each piece first, applied a little CA glue and then cut the other side. This prevented the piece from distorting as some of them were only 0.3mm wide and were very difficult to cut :


 
Here are the finished pics :







 
Danny

Beautiful job Ed. A masterpiece of a model and a great build log. I've enjoyed every update  .
 
Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 323 – Wrapping Up
 
Finally, 99.999% means complete.  Since the last post it has been a lot of little chores: snipping rope ends, the last few rope coils, touching up with paint, waxing standing rigging lines, clean up, etc.  Some of the "major" chores are described below.
 
The first picture shows the final disposition of the crojack sheets and tacks.  These were simply allowed to hang free from the clue garnet blocks with their full lengths coiled on deck.  They were tied down to one of the beams under the pile of rope coils to keep them vertical and straight..
 

 
The main braces could finally be run, since access was no longer needed to the deck area between the main and mizzen masts.  The next picture shows the starboard brace pendant shackled to the outer boomkin eye.
 

 
The fall of the brace runs from the yard pendant through the lead block on the rail in the center of the picture, then to a deck cleat.  The other blocks on the boomkin are the upper and lower main topsail braces.  Two missing eyebolts still need to be fitted on the rail. The picture also shows the completion of another chore left over from the volume II work, fitting chains to support the boomkins.  The next picture shows both of these.
 

 
The next picture shows the starboard swinging boom, the lower studding sail boom,  being lashed to the fore channel brackets. 
 
 
The alternative would be to store these on the skid beams over the cabin, but this seemed more appropriate, since in port these were often used to moor ships' boats.
 
The next picture shows the model with the dust case removed in the relatively cleaned-up workshop.
 

 
Finally, launch.
 

Please excuse the amateur artwork.  Couldn't resist.
 
Ed

Thank you all. This model is now finished, here are the final pics including the lower tank and some skin bracing.
 
Here are the parts for the bracing - lots of careful cutting. I cut one side of each piece first, applied a little CA glue and then cut the other side. This prevented the piece from distorting as some of them were only 0.3mm wide and were very difficult to cut :


 
Here are the finished pics :







 
Danny

a great challenge in card Danny,
and I wish youall the best and good success with this project
 
Nils

But the smallest part so far were near invisible.
half of that size means: invisible to the human eye
 
Jan

Hi all, 
 
My latest Card model - A Halinski kit of a Russian Mi24D Helicopter. Here are the pics of the cover page, 2 of the 3 pages of the  laser-cut pieces, resin wheels and a preformed canopy :




 
This is going to be my most difficult card model to date. There are over 4,000 pieces (HMS Hood had about 2,500), some of them half the size of the smallest I've done so far. This should be FUN  .
 
Danny

Hi all, 
 
My latest Card model - A Halinski kit of a Russian Mi24D Helicopter. Here are the pics of the cover page, 2 of the 3 pages of the  laser-cut pieces, resin wheels and a preformed canopy :




 
This is going to be my most difficult card model to date. There are over 4,000 pieces (HMS Hood had about 2,500), some of them half the size of the smallest I've done so far. This should be FUN  .
 
Danny

Hi all, 
 
My latest Card model - A Halinski kit of a Russian Mi24D Helicopter. Here are the pics of the cover page, 2 of the 3 pages of the  laser-cut pieces, resin wheels and a preformed canopy :




 
This is going to be my most difficult card model to date. There are over 4,000 pieces (HMS Hood had about 2,500), some of them half the size of the smallest I've done so far. This should be FUN  .
 
Danny

Hi all, 
 
My latest Card model - A Halinski kit of a Russian Mi24D Helicopter. Here are the pics of the cover page, 2 of the 3 pages of the  laser-cut pieces, resin wheels and a preformed canopy :




 
This is going to be my most difficult card model to date. There are over 4,000 pieces (HMS Hood had about 2,500), some of them half the size of the smallest I've done so far. This should be FUN  .
 
Danny

Thank you all. This model is now finished, here are the final pics including the lower tank and some skin bracing.
 
Here are the parts for the bracing - lots of careful cutting. I cut one side of each piece first, applied a little CA glue and then cut the other side. This prevented the piece from distorting as some of them were only 0.3mm wide and were very difficult to cut :


 
Here are the finished pics :







 
Danny

Thank you all. This model is now finished, here are the final pics including the lower tank and some skin bracing.
 
Here are the parts for the bracing - lots of careful cutting. I cut one side of each piece first, applied a little CA glue and then cut the other side. This prevented the piece from distorting as some of them were only 0.3mm wide and were very difficult to cut :


 
Here are the finished pics :







 
Danny

Thank you all. This model is now finished, here are the final pics including the lower tank and some skin bracing.
 
Here are the parts for the bracing - lots of careful cutting. I cut one side of each piece first, applied a little CA glue and then cut the other side. This prevented the piece from distorting as some of them were only 0.3mm wide and were very difficult to cut :


 
Here are the finished pics :







 
Danny