Waldemar

Grazie mille per la risposta. Bene, nolens volens, aspetterò pazientemente le fotografie del tuo meraviglioso modello. Thank you very much for your reply. Well, nolens volens, I will wait patiently for the pictures of your wonderful model.

However, on balance, I would tend to follow Kevin's advice to simply fake the scarphs to avoid complicating the task. These scarphs are not desirable or essential elements per se, but just means to an end, i.e. combining small elements into larger ones. And they could have been located almost anywhere along the keel length, depending on the available material.

Can you show a side view as it is on the plans? May be quick'n'dirty photo of the side projection with gun ports shown (decorations not needed). Just to see the general layout of the ship.

What a pace of work! Do you work alone? Or do you manage a large team of employees!? 🙂

... and this only confirms that you made the scarf correctly, although perhaps somewhat unconsciously. 🙂

This is exactly what you have already done, and which can be seen in your post #14.

Depends on many factors which only you can anticipate. Say, the quality of the milling machine (like stiffness or repeatability) and the cutters themselves, the quality of your preparations and the actual work, like your ability to correctly program the CNC device, the right (or bad) setup of the part to be machined, the properties of the material to be milled (size, thickness, strength, stiffness) etc. The intricate shape of your keel (especially twisted surfaces) would probably require several passes of a cutter of quite small diameter, which would leave steps anyway. Still, if you feel you must try, go for it, at worst (or best) you will gain experience.

I think Scrubby has already explained it very convincingly, but to give you still an additional warning of what you will be dealing with, let me say that it is not only about the geometry, but also about the actual machining of such long, curved, tapered and slender parts: You will have to precisely position such parts on the flat table, you will have to hold them fast all along their length so that they do not bent under cutter pressure, you will have to change your cutters to different shapes, you will have to reposition your parts on the table to machine all sides, you will have to "zero" your different cutters each time you modify your setup. All of this you will have to do with a very tight repeatability to get just the acceptable results. This would be a nightmare even for very experienced machinist.

...and that shape of the bottom. Of unmistakably French (or rather Mediterranean) origin.

If you persist, they probably can. Yet, in this particular case, the level of complexity and effort required to do so would make it a hopelessly inefficient endeavour, and even more so for a one-off build. This is perhaps the last method I would consider.... Sorry.

Oh my...! New Ancre monograph! And of a frigate of the pre- "modern” concept! Fantastic news!

One more technical detail: after creating the cutting surface (by lofting or by other means) it may be that it is shorter than required. Then simply you can make it longer by using the "extend surface" command.

Do you see? It's not space technology or brain surgery, just diligence is required.... 🙂

I'm sure you can do it the right way, as it is in the original, especially since you've already put so much good work into your project. Sometimes I sacrifice a number of days for a trivial issues too. And remember to keep the uncut elements as backups.

Well, you say "weird", I say "beautiful" 🙂

I should add that closed polysurfaces (solids) are needed for Boolean operations. If your parts are open, you need to use the simple "split" or "trim" commands.

You can make it straight, i.e. vertical in this case, or if you a pedant like me make another curve at the bottom at its correct place and then make cutting surface by lofting these two curves. There are other methods possible, however, depending on the specific needs and possibilities.

By following the advice of Mark and Terry, you can safely quote even very large parts of a cited work. Is that what you are asking? If so, divide larger pieces only as the last step in designing the entire model/vessel, if at all. Another strategy is to keep the uncut pieces as a safety copy.

Fine ships, fine workmanship, fine French monographs... and a happy choice of wood. Nothing left to be desired. 🙂

🙂 Out of sheer curiosity – please don't forget to show the result. And one more potentially useful advice: the whole-moulding method is both proven and universal in its field of application, nevertheless a slight, professional fairing touch at the hull ends is sometimes required, just as in the real shipbuilding practice.

That's right Kevin, just two moulds are used for shaping the whole hull. Or, this is how this boat of extremely simple, symmetrical shape was reverse-engineered by the most simple variant of the whole-moulding method (sufficient in most cases): – original plan was checked and the worst distortions corrected (it sports quite many other errors anyway, although unimportant already), – base lines were defined (keel, posts, stations etc.), – shape of the main frame was reconstructed by two tangential arcs and a vertical line (outside the planking; also shown in the sketch), – main frame "O" inside the planking was defined by offsetting the above curves by the planks' thickness (or so), – just two moulds were defined in the process: the main mould (red) and the hollow mould (green); their names differ depending on the sources; hollow mould is just an arc of constant radius, sufficient in this case, but often/sometimes other curves were used, like parabola, hyperbola etc., – the attached drawing is self-explanatory on how to derive the other station sections (frame "1" omitted for clarity), – normally, (narrowing and rising) floor curve should be employed for offsetting the main mould in order to get other station sections, but in this instance the sheer line (or greatest breadth) had to be used instead (the period craftsmen would had to do the same upon receiving this draught). Good luck with your designs

It should be added that the version shown here, being suitable for larger vessels, is slightly more complicated than its simpler version sufficient for small craft such as boats. "Top Timber Mold" and "Splaying-Out Staff" can be dispensed with.

Among the many modern works that explain in a visually appealing and clear (step-by-step) manner the principle of the essentially non-graphical whole-moulding method is the chapter of a larger work: Capturing the Curve. Underlying Concepts in the Design of the Hull by Taras Pevny. Please take a look at pages 187–190. The paper was found in the public domain and I suppose it can also be uploaded here. Pevny Taras - Capturing the Curve. Underlying Concepts in the Design of the Hull - 2017.pdf

I like these methods too. Simplifying a bit, you can always use just one method/procedure, but by playing around with different specific values/parameters you can get distinctly different shapes to suit different needs.