ronald305

Hello again.  I started this log back on November 1, 2011, and I think I've managed to salvage most of it.  I have all the photos, and will re-build the log as best I can.
 
Having been through catastrophic data losses before (professionally), I know the feeling the moderators must have and completely sympathize.  Re-boots and recovery are always difficult, but the "can-do" attitude of everyone here and the overwhelming friendly atmosphere obviously hasn't been lost.  For that, I am thankful.
 
Here's the last photo I took (some progress made since then, but not photographed).  I will start the log from the beginning when I have more time.
 
Andy.

First, I want to say thank you to the MSW staff for their
continued perseverance in the rebuilding of the MSW forum. It is great that you
are back up and running.
I had not posted a great deal before the data loss and will
try to rebuild the information previously posted.
When I was a teenager I loved building plastic models. My
last one built was a Revell 1:96 USS Constitution which I managed to build as
far as the standing rigging before enlisting in the USAF and transferred out.
It was several years before I asked my family where the model was stored so I
could finish it. Alas, they thought I had lost interest and it went out with a
spring cleaning. Years pass…and while on a visit home I saw a case displayed
1:96 Connie at my brother in law’s house. It really looked good and my thoughts
were taken back in time. In September this year I saw an Ebay listed Revell
1:96 Connie kit and thought why not give it another try. After it arrived I
realized in a small way the project scope and its difficulty so I started
trying to remember all I had forgotten about plastic builds. 
My first decision point was to figure out the final look of
the build: new or with patina. To assist with this I bought a second model
which had been started in the 1970’s but only got as far as the hull halves
bonding. I got a pretty good price and it allows for some spare parts for the
first kit. The copper antiquing was a thumbs down by my wife who liked the
fresh copper look better even though I got a pretty good patina with a blue-green
wash. So a fresh build without antiquing was the plan.
I followed the Revell directions for the deck detail but
wasn’t entirely happy with the look. About this same time I started to follow
the MSW site and saw the decks created by AndyMech. They looked far better than
mine but I thought there was no un-doing the work I had already done.. I
thought about the differences for a month before finally deciding to just dive
in and try Andy’s method OVER the work already completed on my decks. So the
result is actually a combination of the two: First flat black spray to the
decks followed by wood tan spray per the Revell directions. They were then
sanded with 6-0 sandpaper spray glued to paint stirring sticks to give flat
sanding control. This added a nice ‘worn weather’ look to the decks which I was
not expecting and took away the gloss sheen. Next I followed Andy’s directions
to a tee. I discovered the scoring of the planks works best the closer the
ruler and blade are to the work. The result is, in my opinion, not as good as
Andy’s but I was much happier with the detail his deck method had added.

 
In addition I had made a decision to mount the ship on pedestal type mounts to allow the fiber optic cable to get under the base. Some of the Connie hulls have a molded spot at the keel to drill out and put bolts in to mount the ship. In addition, they will allow an easy transition from cradle (see below) to base. The square nuts were placed before the hull halves were glued. After the glue dried the hull was carefully aligned parallel to the drill press and using a 11/64" bit the holes were drilled through the keel. See pics below.The insert is for a square nut and the keelson and keel can be CAREFULLY drilled out to accommodate a bolt for pedestal mounting. The square nut has to be placed before gluing the hull halves together (well, it can be placed after but then requires some repair). You then drill top down with a small diameter bit (through the eye of the square nut) and then flip the ship keel up and, change the bit, and drill the exact diameter hole to accommodate the bolt, stopping short of the nut placed in the hull. If you are careful, you will not see the drilled hole externally.
 

hello all
 
lets rebuild this log.
 
The kit in all its glory, awaiting a fool to play with her

 
SPrues were washed to clean off the releasing agent. Noting the size the bath was the easiest option

 
I started with the tedium of building all 55 guns



 
Hull was cleaned up and clamped together. Little warping was evident and it came together nicely

 
Onto priming and practice with the airbrush. I am using citadel and Vallejo paints, as I like working with acrylic.


TA DA!

 
Following most peoples lead, I clamped the deck pieces together to remove the seams


 
Some detail work whilst the deck dries. I am really trying to force myself to allow the glue to dry completely for critical areas. Good thing theres heaps to do

 
Rudder was then installed

 
I have decided to clad both decks with basswood strips, it looks alot better than the etched in wood grain

 
I used Ogryn flesh was for the stain, came up nicely

 
Bulking out the hatch comings


 
Adding shot racks to the gun deck



 
Some deatil work on the rudder and chainplates

 
Following Force9's lead, I ordered some PE plates from Bluejacket.inc. Its a pity the stern plate doesnt actually fit to scale.

 
You can't have a Conni without her famous stern chasers

 
Laying bricks for the Camboose platform

 

 
Sternplate was installed and detail started


 
Ordered an Amati ropewalk to use for all the lines needed, including making my own shrouds and ratlines

 
I reinforced the rudder tiller with some scrap brass to ensure smooth turning

 
Grain of rice bulbs were installed to light up the gun deck


 
The gun deck goes in, and it fit! used some of the Admirals hairbands to squeeze the hull together


 
shot racks were filled

 
Captains cabin was painted, trimmed and installed

Well, here we go again.  I am rebuilding my log from the google cache.
 
02 JANUARY 2013
 
 
Hi, welcome to my build log. I haven't built a model in over 30 years, so I have no idea how this is going to turn out...but I am going to give it a good try. I plan on building the model exactly (or nearly so) to the Revell instructions.   I will try to show details of my successes and failures. I welcome your comments... I have been working for a week or so, but just now started the log... so the first page or so I dumped a lot of photos.   A little about me: I'm a former U.S. Navy submariner (sturgeon class) and mechanical engineer. I have been working in commerical nuclear power for my entire professional life.   I have been working and living in Bulgaria for five years now...but my home is in Arizona!!   Finally, Kudo's to build logs from AndyMech, lambsbk, LMDave and "popeye the sailor" just to name a few.  

Thanks.  Right now, I plan on putting this cross-section into the same case as my Revell plastic Constitution to make a nice dual-display.
 
There will be differences between the two models, of course, as I've not painted the interior of the cross section (bulwarks).  I plan on painting the exterior to match, but I'm still debating how to copper the lower hull.  I can use the kit's paper and paint it copper or find and use some copper tape instead.  I'm tempted to do the latter if I can find tape in the proper scale width.
 
Andy.

thanks I do appreciate that OC
   but I would like to see a glimpse of the 1/180 scale Victory build in the area where the second deck gets installed
    better yet I would love to see a video of the 1/180 scale victory being built from the time the box is open till she is placed on
    a display base, I know that is asking to much so instead I'll be happy to hear from 1/180 victory builders past and present
       especially from frank if he still has the photos that is if he did log on that kit
                                 Ronald                                 

thanks Frank
  I tried the 1/180 scale airfix kit and was doing fine until I got to the  part where I tried to put the top deck on with out breaking off one or two columns off or a cannon off it's carriage it was a disaster, all that time I put in to that kit wasted the kit fortunately  was free so  if I do the 1/180 scale kit again, I will need help from you and everyone on this forum that built the airfix Victory successfully especially when It will  come to part when I have to install the top deck I tried to get help from Airfix triburte forum  but one fellow no names mention gives me a hard time never nice me so I'm only going to come here for help from now on, so if you can remember that build I would appreciate your building skills on that kit
                        Ronald

thanks Frank
  I tried the 1/180 scale airfix kit and was doing fine until I got to the  part where I tried to put the top deck on with out breaking off one or two columns off or a cannon off it's carriage it was a disaster, all that time I put in to that kit wasted the kit fortunately  was free so  if I do the 1/180 scale kit again, I will need help from you and everyone on this forum that built the airfix Victory successfully especially when It will  come to part when I have to install the top deck I tried to get help from Airfix triburte forum  but one fellow no names mention gives me a hard time never nice me so I'm only going to come here for help from now on, so if you can remember that build I would appreciate your building skills on that kit
                        Ronald

Hi Ronald.
 
Well as for getting a good representation of this ship from OOB, its up to the modeler.
 
I started this project because of the challenge in producing all three fighting decks with there detail.
 
After seeing Daniels  etched/resin set and liking scratch building, I decided to take the plunge.
 
Having little or no experience of sailing ships I purchased some books after chatting with more experienced ship builders.
It is from this that I have got so far in the build.
 
Weather it be larger scales it means more detail.
I started with the Airfix 180 scale Victory.



From that experience I went onto the bigger 1/100 Heller ship.
I messed around with all sorts on that earlier build.
Thus made a diorama with it in the end.








So what I am trying to show is anything is possible.

Just have ago.

You would of course be better with an English speaking plans, but if you have some books, then they will help out.

I hope this helps you in deciding which way to go.

Frank. 

thanks Frank
  I tried the 1/180 scale airfix kit and was doing fine until I got to the  part where I tried to put the top deck on with out breaking off one or two columns off or a cannon off it's carriage it was a disaster, all that time I put in to that kit wasted the kit fortunately  was free so  if I do the 1/180 scale kit again, I will need help from you and everyone on this forum that built the airfix Victory successfully especially when It will  come to part when I have to install the top deck I tried to get help from Airfix triburte forum  but one fellow no names mention gives me a hard time never nice me so I'm only going to come here for help from now on, so if you can remember that build I would appreciate your building skills on that kit
                        Ronald

OK Thanks  Foxy
                Ronald

great job so far on the Victory may I ask you how did you do the deck that is awesome
                               Ronald

Hi Foxy
    I went to the web site where you got your little lathe couldn't find yours would you know the
       model number  wasn't able to find one in the states thank you
                           Ronald  

I too am desperate for help with the colour scheme as most of the other Victory makers won't share. I've got a list of colours on the box if you want it. Heller 1/100. Just PM me

Thanks Frank, Mark.

Yes the stove was fun to work out and thats half the fun, ain't it.

Well moved on a tad with the overhanging shrouds(futtocks).



Used a small piece of brass rod and Dafis etched parts.



So as not to bore you I will finish this side and the other before more pictures.

Frank. 

Hello Frank, just came through your build log.... and i have not much to say... I'm speechless ... AMAZING DETAILED WORK!!!! It's seems you've been very intent for every step you take throughout your perfect build... Well done!!
 
Kind Regards
Dimitris

Hi Jerry
   I know it has been some time since I was asking about purchasing the caldercraft  Victory well this Morning
     I did it I took the plunge and ordered her,​ but I'm  writing to your about your display case not so much the
    acrylic case but the table the case is on but would like to know where you got both the case and the furniture
      if you still have the information thank you
                                Ronald

Hi Jerry
   I know it has been some time since I was asking about purchasing the caldercraft  Victory well this Morning
     I did it I took the plunge and ordered her,​ but I'm  writing to your about your display case not so much the
    acrylic case but the table the case is on but would like to know where you got both the case and the furniture
      if you still have the information thank you
                                Ronald

There are two types of sellers....
 
1. Model Builders who just have some second hand tools, kits, etc and wish to sell them to other hobbyists.   You must be a member in good standing at MSW to post stuff for sale if you are in this category.....You must have 25 or posts on MSW as a member in good standing to post stuff for sale.
 
2. Commercial business....online stores  No advertising/self promotion is allowed on the forum.   If your business is interested in posting about your products or services, please contact admin (Chuck) about becoming a sponsor of this site.  As a sponsor you will be able to promote your products and services here in the the traders and dealers area as well as have a banner linked to your website along the right side of the forums main page.  Unless you are a sponsor of this site, All commercial business promotion is forbidden without permission from the administrators.
 
 
Those in category one......Please read.......If you wish to sell something here on MSW, please read and follow the rules given. We're not, by nature, a suspicious bunch. But over the years here and in other forums, people with something to sell have come in and offered various and sundry items. Not all have been honest. So please, follow these guidelines so that everyone has a pleasant experience.  You must have been a member that has 25 posts before you can post a topic in this forum.   
 
1) Post some pictures of the item.
2) Offer to give your phone number via PM.
3) Offer Paypal or some other secure transaction method.
4) Provide a price (given the different currencies, put the price in your currency).
5) Be sure to post your real name, location by city and country.
6) Do not post personal data such as addresses, emails, etc.  You will probably get spammed, etc. as this forum can be read by anyone including miscreants. 
 
Lastly, expect questions and do answer them.

Great job on the victory
may ask where did you get the
Photo etched parts gif the kit and
the wood planking and what size did you
Use
Ronald

Here's mine ...
 
TOOTHPICKS - Round toothpicks were used as handles for the oars on my USS Constitution's boats (1/76 scale).
 
These have been sanded down to reduce their size from approx 2mm to 0.8mm. Some scrap stock was used for the oar-blades, cut to size and then grooved to take the handles.
 

Hello all.
Couldn't wait and I'm posting these photos with the sole purpose of starting my Royal Louis build log.

 
I'm under the impression this will be a real challenge.
 
Box and contents shown. I know before hand I won't be using some of the stuff in this kit. Like those metal boats: Plan to purchase wooden kits for those parts. Blocks: I'm planning to purchase blocks from an external source. Rigging thread: I will make my own. Too many metal parts. Still don't know which I will use or won't. Will decide in due time.
 
Actual build photos will come later.
 
All you see in the photos is all the room I have to build. That is a blanket closet. 
I dream of a really big and spacious shop. 

Hi all,
 
This is my first build and I am aware this ship represents an expert level kit, but I love a challenge, and so far, at least with all of the excellent build logs on this site I don't feel out of my depth. Although please be the judge of that as my efforts unfold.
 
I elected to take the bulkhead filler block path and even though it took me a while to shape these, I was happy I did. It allowed me to see how the planks would lie and provided a solid surface to mate the planks in these geometrically complicated areas.
 
Next set of pics to follow.

Doing some initial planning for this build. Reading through the entire instruction book to get a feel for the overall model and checking out the build of some pros like Dubz, Augie and Thomas. Should be able to start the actual build in a few weeks. Just finished MS kit Fair American (Kitbashed per Lauk Street Shipyard practicum). Fair American was my first plank-on-bulkhead build after completing the solid hull MS Phantom starter kit.
 
For Syren I ordered lumber from Crown Timberyard--holly for the deck and waterway and boxwood for deck furniture and hull planks above the copper. I must say that Jason at Crown Timberyard was extremely helpful In selecting woods and helping to determine what lumber I needed to build parts from scratch. I highly recommend the company. I'll order rope and Gratings from Chuck Passaro at Syren.
 
I'm very excited for this build!

This was my very first build. It is the original version of the San Francisco, not to be confused with the San Francisco II, there are slight differences, the main one being the hull which is double planked with basswood and Sapeli veneer, whereas the San Fran II is single planked with mahogany.
 
I didn't like the gun carriages that came with the kit and with help from other members made my own which were more in keeping with the era of the ship.
 
I also made changes to the rigging, the kit instructions, for me, were too simplified so I did a lot of research and added more accurate rigging.
 
I learnt a lot from this build and she now sits in pride of place in my lounge.
 
The box:

 
The Box:

 
Inside the box:

 
First the bulkheads were dry fitted, checking for fit and adjusting if neccessary before gluing in place. It is important to make sure the keel is straight and the bulkheads are at a 90deg angle to the keel to prevent problems with planking later.