BETAQDAVE
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BETAQDAVE reacted to bluenose2 in Using highly toxic substances.
Hello Les back. As discussed most of the solvents, adhesives and paints we use do not have a list of what they contain. If you are a commercial company you can request the WHMIS data for products you use so it can be included in your spill cart. My intention here is to see a data base in "ONE" topic site, no hunting required. So you if you are using lacquer thinner you can look at the handling, storage and disposal data. This is important if you are going to use a compound such as sulphuric acid for example. You need to have available, the required safety equipment in case of a spill or worse yet if you splash some on yourself. Long term exposure effects to many chemicals can be very harmful. This could also have recommendations for correct venting, for enclosed the spaces we tend to work in. This would be a topic that could be updated regularly as companies release new adhesives and paints etc.
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BETAQDAVE reacted to Dan Vadas in Holding Small Parts while Silver Soldering
Hi all,
I just came across THIS TIP for holding small parts while Silver Soldering as I was looking through another website. I haven't tried it myself yet, but it looks like it should work. Pretty simple . (Click on the pics to see a larger image)
There are a couple of tips in the posts below it that also make a lot of sense. Hope someone finds this useful.
Danny
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BETAQDAVE reacted to mischief in thin wooden mast reinforcing
I soak thin doweling in Minwax Wood Hardener.
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BETAQDAVE reacted to lehmann in thin wooden mast reinforcing
Not that I want to spread alarm about breaking spars, but what you are worried about actually happened to the USS Constitution in 1997.
https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2017/04/20/springtime-for-uss-constitution/.
The moral of the story is don't expose your model to 70 mph winds and 2 ft of snow (or the equivalent in whatever scale you're working at)!
On a more practical tone, going to a strong hardwood, such as maple, would be my first choice. However, straight grain is also a larger factor, so best to split the raw material for the rough blank rather than saw it. Any wood that is going to be subject to bending loads, such as chair backs, bows, etc, are made from split stock.
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BETAQDAVE reacted to maaaslo in thin wooden mast reinforcing
also, i would probably try to make it from bamboo... cheap and rather strong...
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BETAQDAVE reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in thin wooden mast reinforcing
I find bamboo to be the go-to material for small wooden spars. The long and tough fibers that run along its length behave like rebar in cement. It resists breaking from any angle, unlike most woods that will fail along the grain on one side or another. Unlike most other woods, you can keep on reducing diameter to a very thin, yet still resilient, thickness. I find tapering bamboo spars to be so easy I'm surprised anyone feels it presents any difficulty. I've had success tapering with a small block plane and/or via sandpaper. If you have never tried tapering with your spar chucked into a drill and using sandpaper on it while it spins you have missed some great fun. Wear eye protection. Drawplates I have never had success with, they are expensive so I only ever purchased one from Micro Mark years ago and it was a lemon. Perhaps there are more effective ones out there but I'm not inclined to pay to find out.
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from mtaylor in thin wooden mast reinforcing
Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I considered substituting metal for it but I would have a hard time tapering it. Cutting it into two pieces and inserting a metal rod on such a thin piece of wood would be tough also, as end drilling a 1/32" dowel would require much more precision to drill than I could handle. The top mast will be a varnished finish so I may just try a few coats of varnish and see how much strength is gained. The wood I have is beech which has a fairly high rating for bending strength, but I have some hard maple which has a little higher strength rating and similar appearance. Maybe I can locate some hickory which has a much higher strength rating but a very inconsistent coloring. If I'm picky in my selection I can select a piece that has a similar appearance to the beech. Does any one have a source for some hickory or any other wood that could qualify?
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BETAQDAVE reacted to Dan Vadas in 18th Century Longboat by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:100 scale - BOTTLE - using most of Chuck's Practicum
That's part of the fun of ship modelling . Don't you mean "outside the bottle thinking"?
Thank you David, Grant and Russell.
With all the fixes and adjustments done to my satisfaction (not quite perfect, but hardly noticeable) it was time to add the "sea"
I used Digger's two-part Ultra Clear Casting Resin. It looks a little yellowy when first mixed, but dries clear when it hardens. I used a squeeze bottle to which I glued a piece of Heat-shrink tubing to get the resin into the bottle without actually tipping it in which could have been very messy. Clear tubing would have been better, but I just used what I had on hand :
Danny
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from Eddie in thin wooden mast reinforcing
Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I considered substituting metal for it but I would have a hard time tapering it. Cutting it into two pieces and inserting a metal rod on such a thin piece of wood would be tough also, as end drilling a 1/32" dowel would require much more precision to drill than I could handle. The top mast will be a varnished finish so I may just try a few coats of varnish and see how much strength is gained. The wood I have is beech which has a fairly high rating for bending strength, but I have some hard maple which has a little higher strength rating and similar appearance. Maybe I can locate some hickory which has a much higher strength rating but a very inconsistent coloring. If I'm picky in my selection I can select a piece that has a similar appearance to the beech. Does any one have a source for some hickory or any other wood that could qualify?
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from thibaultron in thin wooden mast reinforcing
Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I considered substituting metal for it but I would have a hard time tapering it. Cutting it into two pieces and inserting a metal rod on such a thin piece of wood would be tough also, as end drilling a 1/32" dowel would require much more precision to drill than I could handle. The top mast will be a varnished finish so I may just try a few coats of varnish and see how much strength is gained. The wood I have is beech which has a fairly high rating for bending strength, but I have some hard maple which has a little higher strength rating and similar appearance. Maybe I can locate some hickory which has a much higher strength rating but a very inconsistent coloring. If I'm picky in my selection I can select a piece that has a similar appearance to the beech. Does any one have a source for some hickory or any other wood that could qualify?
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BETAQDAVE reacted to roach101761 in thin wooden mast reinforcing
What type of wood is the mast? Is it too soft or is it too brittle/ Perhaps making the mast from a harder wood or more rigid wood will do the trick.
Phil
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BETAQDAVE reacted to mtaylor in thin wooden mast reinforcing
I would explore what Phil suggested first. If you're not staining it or finishing it, sometimes white glue and water (50/50) as several light coats will stiffen wood. As always, test first.
Note, generally this method works for hardening up balsa wood.
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from Piet in HMS Agamemnon 1781 by Hennie - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64
Your hands may seem too big , but you obviously have a fine touch!
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from thibaultron in thin wooden mast reinforcing
When you have a very thin upper mast, is there something that will make a wood mast stronger? I have a topmast dowel that is only 1/32" at its fattest and thus much thinner as it tapers. I'm afraid that the least little tug on the rigging would snap it off. I had thought of soaking it in some kind of varnish or similar product that may harden the wood. Anyone with any other suggestions? Dave
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from Eddie in thin wooden mast reinforcing
When you have a very thin upper mast, is there something that will make a wood mast stronger? I have a topmast dowel that is only 1/32" at its fattest and thus much thinner as it tapers. I'm afraid that the least little tug on the rigging would snap it off. I had thought of soaking it in some kind of varnish or similar product that may harden the wood. Anyone with any other suggestions? Dave
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BETAQDAVE reacted to Hennie in HMS Agamemnon 1781 by Hennie - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64
Hi all,
First of all, thx for all the kind words!
After six years my Aggy finally found her way home....
I want to thank you all for all the commends and advices and of course all the likes! I am still waiting for my next project, the Sovereign of the Seas (Sergal). When all goes well, it should arrive this week, but I am afraid it will take some more time. Looks if they send my order to the planet Saturnus.....
As promised some pictures. As you can see, I did some repairs. I fixed that nasty angle in the top stay.
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BETAQDAVE reacted to Dilbert55 in This is an incredibly interesting place!
Hello MSW members,
Been lurking around viewing for more than a year now and as I've started posting recently, I had better introduce myself. My name is Bob, I'm a retired "ship" builder who started modeling in plastic as a boy and graduated to Billings Toulonnaise by the time I was a young man. Had completed and painted the hull but then life and family happened so it got stuck in the closet. It was eventually badly damaged during a move so sadly was never completed. My son gave me Artesania's Virginia as a gift which was returned to him as a housewarming gift once completed. Currently building the Hermoine, which I hope to start a log for shortly.
The "ships" I built during my working career were of the flying variety, specifically the interior portion for corporate jets. Started working with my hands as a sheet metal mechanic and ended it as an engineer. Have seen some amazing craftsmanship over the years and see it here again in all of your build logs.
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from John Allen in Rigging Period Fore-And_Aft Craft
I recently ordered Rigging Period Fore-And-Aft Craft by Lennarth Petersson. I picked it up from Amazon in the paperback edition for about $24.00. I would highly recommend this book, especially for anyone new to ship modeling that may be confused by the multitude of rigging lines.
It’s 111 pages long with about 200 diagrams that clearly show you where each separate item of both standing and running rigging lines are fitted, led, and belayed. The book is divided into three 18th century ship types. The first one is an English 18 gun naval cutter similar to the Expedition. The second section is a French 8 gun 3 masted lugger similar to the Le Coureur. The last section deals with a 2 masted American schooner similar to the Experiment.
The book clearly illustrates the details of the connections of the various lines including their attachment points and tackle arrangements. I found it to be well worth the investment. As a matter of fact I plan on getting a copy of his previous book Rigging Period Ship Models.
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Rigging Period Fore-And_Aft Craft
I recently ordered Rigging Period Fore-And-Aft Craft by Lennarth Petersson. I picked it up from Amazon in the paperback edition for about $24.00. I would highly recommend this book, especially for anyone new to ship modeling that may be confused by the multitude of rigging lines.
It’s 111 pages long with about 200 diagrams that clearly show you where each separate item of both standing and running rigging lines are fitted, led, and belayed. The book is divided into three 18th century ship types. The first one is an English 18 gun naval cutter similar to the Expedition. The second section is a French 8 gun 3 masted lugger similar to the Le Coureur. The last section deals with a 2 masted American schooner similar to the Experiment.
The book clearly illustrates the details of the connections of the various lines including their attachment points and tackle arrangements. I found it to be well worth the investment. As a matter of fact I plan on getting a copy of his previous book Rigging Period Ship Models.
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from catopower in Rigging Period Fore-And_Aft Craft
I recently ordered Rigging Period Fore-And-Aft Craft by Lennarth Petersson. I picked it up from Amazon in the paperback edition for about $24.00. I would highly recommend this book, especially for anyone new to ship modeling that may be confused by the multitude of rigging lines.
It’s 111 pages long with about 200 diagrams that clearly show you where each separate item of both standing and running rigging lines are fitted, led, and belayed. The book is divided into three 18th century ship types. The first one is an English 18 gun naval cutter similar to the Expedition. The second section is a French 8 gun 3 masted lugger similar to the Le Coureur. The last section deals with a 2 masted American schooner similar to the Experiment.
The book clearly illustrates the details of the connections of the various lines including their attachment points and tackle arrangements. I found it to be well worth the investment. As a matter of fact I plan on getting a copy of his previous book Rigging Period Ship Models.
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BETAQDAVE got a reaction from mtaylor in Rigging Period Fore-And_Aft Craft
I recently ordered Rigging Period Fore-And-Aft Craft by Lennarth Petersson. I picked it up from Amazon in the paperback edition for about $24.00. I would highly recommend this book, especially for anyone new to ship modeling that may be confused by the multitude of rigging lines.
It’s 111 pages long with about 200 diagrams that clearly show you where each separate item of both standing and running rigging lines are fitted, led, and belayed. The book is divided into three 18th century ship types. The first one is an English 18 gun naval cutter similar to the Expedition. The second section is a French 8 gun 3 masted lugger similar to the Le Coureur. The last section deals with a 2 masted American schooner similar to the Experiment.
The book clearly illustrates the details of the connections of the various lines including their attachment points and tackle arrangements. I found it to be well worth the investment. As a matter of fact I plan on getting a copy of his previous book Rigging Period Ship Models.
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BETAQDAVE reacted to ken3335 in Putting script between pictures
Hi Eddie & Blue Ensign,
Thank you both for you very fast response to my question. Ah yes I knew there had to be a simple answer but I've been going around in circles trying to get it.
Thanks,
Ken
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BETAQDAVE reacted to Eddie in Putting script between pictures
Hey howya goin Ken mate, after you uploaded all your pics that you want in the post hover the mouse over the one you want to insert you will see a plus sign pop up in one of the corners of that pic click on the plus sign and it will add that pic to the area you are typeing your text and repeat just remember hit enter to put a gap between your text and pic.
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BETAQDAVE reacted to Blue Ensign in Putting script between pictures
Hi Ken, I upload photo's directly from my computer photo files, and they appear along the bottom of the log entry I am making. You can do this for all the photo's you wish to include in a particular log entry.
I type in the blurb for the log, and then move the cursor below the line of print and click on the photo I wish to select which then appears in the body of the log.
Again move the cursor below the photo and begin writing again in the body of the log, and so on.
Hope this helps.
B.E.
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BETAQDAVE reacted to ken3335 in Putting script between pictures
Hi, I have recently started my first build log, Royal William and I am finding it difficult to add script between pictures. At present I'm writing the log, I then add the relevant picture for that paragraph which I have uploaded but I can't continue with the next paragraph. To continue I have posted the log and must then start again in the reply.
Thanks
Ken
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