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Everything posted by BrianK
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Keith, I agree, alignment is definitely a challenge with punches. Light reference marks help a bit. Drawing a small crosshair with radius ticks matched to the punch. The disc cutter interests me too for this reason since it has washer cutter centering dies. Cut the inner hole, then use the centering dies to align the small cut hole for the bigger hole cut. Lynn's mast coat is essentially a washer cut..... For anything nearing an inch or bigger I am with you on your circle cutter solution. Maybe I need a better one for those smaller holes like Lynn is trying to do..... Keith this is a circle cutter question more fitting for your Tennessee build log (sorry Lynn) but I wonder if can you do gun tracks from paper or thin card thru the laser printer, then cut with the circle cutter? BrianK
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Another small circle cutting trick when working in thin/soft materials is to use either a circle punch or disc cutter. Circle punches are what leathersmiths use but they work great on cardstock too (ebay search: circle punch). I have been drooling over the swanstrom disc cutters (they make other shape cutters too) for a while..... https://www.riogrande.com/searchresults#q=disc cutter&t=products&sort=relevancy&layout=card&numberOfResults=36 There are swanstrom knock-offs available but alas, I still use punches for small circles...... =( LOL
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I agree with Keith on common minimum Forstner bit sizes. For smaller sizes I would just ensure you use tape on the wood and drill through it, cut at high speed with a really sharp bit, and don't put pressure on the drill. Let it do the drilling without extra pressure. Actually these are the rules for bigger holes in wood too. 😃 BrianK
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Lynn I wonder if a tool like this is useful for getting the rake right? You might need a donut shaped buffer board to keep the tool off the bulwarks.... I like that you can see the work area below the jig too. https://garrettwade.com/product/portable-drill-guide-jig?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8_qRBhCXARIsAE2AtRYg_M3V64xemsueGJcr2ficAu1fG1PQp8f-Z_r41lY4_TZW5RxmFm8aAnYQEALw_wcB BTW, did I mention I love tools? 😃 BrianK
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Lynn, Loving your updates. The stanchions look great. I love my NWSL chopper too and use it frequently for thin stock. I want to let you know there is a new tool in town that you and others might want to look at. It just came on the market a few weeks ago. The Canadian team at Ultimation just released their chopper called the "Slicer". The problem it solves is that its custom replaceable blades have only one chamfered side (most blades are chamfered on both sides) so you can get dead straight cuts on the stock on the straight side. It also cuts on an integrated replaceable self-healing cutting mat. I ordered mine a few days ago and will let you know how it works if you are interested..... Here is the link: I have no financial interest in the company. https://ultimation.ca/products/slicer BrianK
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Chris, I continue to be in awe of your skill. To cut such small parts so accurately is so impressive. (straight cuts on straight lines and curved cuts on curved lines sounds simple but having tried my first 1/250th scale card model I know that is easier said.....) While I continue to internally debate whether to leave the line or take the line on cuts, I am sure you are "spliting the line". 😃 I do have one question: On small parts like the sky lookouts do you hold the pieces with tweezers and paint the edges before glue and assembly? BrianK
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Well done Kevin! I got mine recently too (but I was not quite as lucky as you!). It will be a while before i get to it. Will be watching for your build! 😃 BrianK
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He just got back to me. Maybe he saw the inquiry. Seems like a miscommunication with the order. Hopefully it will be resolved. Thanks for the replies. BrianK
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Hi, does anybody have an alternate contact for Radimir at his ship details company hismodel.com? I placed an order for some Revell Kearsarge and Cutty Sark decks and one set of gun tracks from the order was missing. I have reached out a couple times to the email address we had used to communicate for the order (m_________@hism....) but for more than a week now I have not received a reply. If anybody has another email address I would appreciate it (via PM so you don't expose him to spam). If not I may have to try and cold call him in Europe via Skype. Thanks, BrianK
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Keith, this sounds promising for onboard ratlining at small scales. Are you using a straight or curved beading needle? If its the straight one, do you go through the shrouds in one continuous piercing of the shrouds or do you stop and tie anywhere? Thanks, BrianK
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Right Mark. Keith I was thinking of it possibly as a practice tool for off-boat ratline knot tieing. The teeth look to be spaced about 0.1" so in the ballpark for 1/120 scale ratlines. BrianK
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Keith, for practicing would a ratliner help? I think the smallest Model Shipways ratliner is 1/90 scale. The Zvezda (former Heller?) 1/100 Bark and Brig models have this plastic ratliner in the kits.... BrianK
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Chris that binnacle-like thingie looks perfectly round and symmetrical. I know its got to be incredibly tiny but the extreme detail keeps betraying my sense of size. You better start including that 4" diameter penny in all your photos. 😃 BrianK
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On the subject of magnifying glasses, I am not a fan of the headband style. I do not wear prescription glasses but at age 57 I do now use reading glasses. A Jeweler I know turned me on to the type of magnifiers I have been using for more than 10 years: Telesight half-frame magnifying glasses. They flip up out of the way, and come in different magnifications. Very comfortable -- not heavy. http://www.telesightmagnifiers.com/catalog/i169.html They make a full frame version for your RX lenses if needed, and a clip on version. Also available on ebay.... BrianK
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Lynn, I second Keith's recommendation. Soft sanding sticks are great in part because they are semi-rigid and will follow a modest contour like you have with the bulwarks. I keep a take-out container of them next to the bench and use them on plastic, wood, non-ferrous metals..... pretty much everything. I have not done bulwark sanding yet like you are doing, but I was thinking about this challenging task and thought of sanding sticks for it too. They make them in different widths and graduated grits too, as Keith's link shows. In fact they go down (up?) to polishing grits in the couple 1000's that will work on model airplane canopies. Many many brands available too. The wider ones are also searched for under the term sanding sponge. BrianK
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Keith, I will be curious to see how you space the ratlines. Is there a record of the "step size" spacing between ratlines on US Navy ships like the Tennessee? I have a Sterling Kearsarge sloop of war on the shelf that is hopefully in my distant modelling future. I would love to make note of your scale ratline spacing for future reference..... BrianK
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Chris that is not a 1/4 scale penny is it? 😃 I am continuing to be amazed by the quality of your work Chris. BrianK
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Wow Chris, those 15 roof support brackets look so tiny. I would of flicked them all over trying to cut them out. 😃 BrianK
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Looks great Keith. I'll bet those other 91 pairs will fly by when you enter your zen dead-eye tying mindspace..... If you disappear for a couple days we will understand. 😃 BrianK
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