homer

It's been a while since my last upload. Lots of things going on at home and I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the ship. But here and there I squeeze in an hour or so.  I was able to spend half of today working on it and have some pics to share.
 
I finished with the copper plates and painted the balance of the hull black. I then sprayed a matte finish on it. Then I finished up most of the outside part of the stern and painted it. 
 
I then finished installing the Waterway and Ceiling Planks. Admittedly, I struggled with the Ceiling Planks and had to use a little filler. I then installed the Log Rail and Top Gallant Rail. Again, I painted the exterior black. 
 
I then installed the Lashing Rail and decided to paint the inside now so I wouldn't have to tape off or make a mess after planking the interior. Today I worked on the supports that will go under the coamings for the Hatches, Skylight, Steerage companion, Tryworks and Forecastle. I also installed the deck insert for the Windlass. If I recall, the width of the scrap wood used for the supports was about 1/4" wide. 
 
I'll see if I can upload the pics to this work: 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

More pics as I bring the build log up to date. As you will note, as I got further into the build I flattened out the shine look and painted Corel's gold pieces to flat black. Unfortunately, the bulwarks and deck gratings were not to scale. Pulling it apart would have made matters worse. This is when I decided to either throw the thing in the trash or continue building and use the ship build as something to practice on. 
 
This is what I have done and will finish it up. I am currently working on the upper rat lines and from this point will post pics as I go. There are not very many builds of the Greyhound out there so this is one of the reasons I'll swallow my pride and keep posting!
 
Again, while it is a poorly designed kit with inadequate and sub par build docs and wood, The full blame rests with me. I could have and should have researched the build further, bashed the kit, ordered better wood and replaced Corel's poor quality castings with my own builds. While this kit isn't Corel's best work, they do have some excellent kits and I have some waiting on the shelf to be built. What I don't understand is why Corel doesn't temporarily pull this product and make the appropriate adjustments. None the less, if you buy the kit from a good vendor such as ModelExpo they will stand behind the product and replace parts. Course, they will replace the parts with the same poor quality parts from Corel. 
 
I shouldn't be so hard on Corel. I am interested in what other members think about their products. 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go!
 
I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. 
 
The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you.
 
I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. 
 
I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. 
 
I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later???
 
Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow).  I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. 
 
I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
 
 

I've been keeping an eye on your build and have used your comments and uploads to assist me with the build of my Charles Morgan! I like what you have been doing and your build site!!! Wish I could afford some of those tools. I'd like to get the lathe but with all the attachments .....Yikes!!! I've been using my large drill press as I squeeze sandpaper around the dowel. Ron 

I've been keeping an eye on your build and have used your comments and uploads to assist me with the build of my Charles Morgan! I like what you have been doing and your build site!!! Wish I could afford some of those tools. I'd like to get the lathe but with all the attachments .....Yikes!!! I've been using my large drill press as I squeeze sandpaper around the dowel. Ron 

Thanks for the likes and comments guys. I'm still moving upwards. Managed to complete the Topmast Ratboards & Ratlines and the Topgallant & Royal masts and shrouds. Only thing left will be the Shrouds and Ratlines for the Topgallants. The Shrouds are siezed to Bullseyes and then tied off with Lanyards at the crosstrees. Then they get more Ratlines. Problem is I am waiting again on Model Shipways to deliver. Should have them Tuesday ore Wednesday. I didn't count correctly or I could have had them on my last order, so - gotta wait.

● Finishing The Stern: I scanned the stern windows from the plans and imported the file into CorelDraw. I made a drawing of the windows using the scanned image as a guide. The file was then printed and trimmed to fit on the stern. I closed the 3 holes in bulkhead YY with some scrap balsa and adhered the windows using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. The remainder of the stern was completed as per the instructions. The four laser cut knees were replaced with boxwood. These were made by hand from a single piece of wood. Laser cut knees were glued to each end and used as a guide for shaping. 1/16" wide pieces were ripped using the table saw.
 
Photo of window drawing

 

 

● Beakhead Bulkhead and Deck Planking: I prefer to do the planking off the model, whenever possible, to avoid sanding into other parts. Here the deck planking is sanded and ready to be installed.
 

 
The planks were glued to the bulkhead and sanded. The doors were replaced with ladders like those that are now on the Mayflower replica. I used this simple jig to align the ladders. Ladders were glued with 5 minute epoxy applied with a pin. A rather slow process, but I think it's worth the wait.
 

 
The completed bulkhead and deck planking with no sanding necessary other than the outside curve and overall height of the bulkhead.
 

Looking at these images. Would the same effect have been achieved buy cutting grooves in the wood with grooves going the opposite direction on the same side. The glue strips into a solid piece, more stable. Then when the glue is dry run the whole thing over the saw to create the grooves on the underside? I'm just curious as to if you attempted this before I might?
 
 
 

Mine (Syren) arrived a few days ago! But, it's in dry dock for now. It will be another year (I think) before I'm done with the Charles Morgan. I got a good buy at Model Expo with no shipping, almost half off the kit and it was a special buy that came with the kit's paints. Although, they forgot to send the paints. Nothing a quick e-mail to Frank at Model Expo didn't clear up. They're already in the mail! I've got about half dozen ships in dry dock. I retire in three years or so and look forward to spending more time with the builds. I've got a long way to go but I can see my skill set has gotten better with each kit. I'll be watching your build. Have fun!  Ron 

Mine (Syren) arrived a few days ago! But, it's in dry dock for now. It will be another year (I think) before I'm done with the Charles Morgan. I got a good buy at Model Expo with no shipping, almost half off the kit and it was a special buy that came with the kit's paints. Although, they forgot to send the paints. Nothing a quick e-mail to Frank at Model Expo didn't clear up. They're already in the mail! I've got about half dozen ships in dry dock. I retire in three years or so and look forward to spending more time with the builds. I've got a long way to go but I can see my skill set has gotten better with each kit. I'll be watching your build. Have fun!  Ron 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

The build continues. I planked between the Planksheer and the Main Rail. Admittedly, I struggled at the bow. I only had to do some minor filling for now. I then took a small break and was messing around with how I will do the copper plates. I purchased some chemicals and applied then to the copper. I then made a bunch of plates on a copper strip and used Acrylic paint with very light strokes. 
 
Now, if you remember I very much like the look of the Charles Morgan on the box cover of Model Shipways box. I also did some intense searching and found two other Charles Morgan's built and one placed in a museum. It too had the same look at the box cover (it wasn't the same model). So, the jury is out how or which plates I'll use below the water line. I know what I want to do isn't true to form but darn it... I really like the look!  
 
I've uploaded some pics of where I'm at. On one you can see this jig I made to use the ponce wheel. But the jury is out on that too (I'm not that happy with it). Anyway, opinions welcome!!!! Ron /Homer

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go!
 
I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. 
 
The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you.
 
I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. 
 
I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. 
 
I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later???
 
Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow).  I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. 
 
I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
 
 

The build continues. I planked between the Planksheer and the Main Rail. Admittedly, I struggled at the bow. I only had to do some minor filling for now. I then took a small break and was messing around with how I will do the copper plates. I purchased some chemicals and applied then to the copper. I then made a bunch of plates on a copper strip and used Acrylic paint with very light strokes. 
 
Now, if you remember I very much like the look of the Charles Morgan on the box cover of Model Shipways box. I also did some intense searching and found two other Charles Morgan's built and one placed in a museum. It too had the same look at the box cover (it wasn't the same model). So, the jury is out how or which plates I'll use below the water line. I know what I want to do isn't true to form but darn it... I really like the look!  
 
I've uploaded some pics of where I'm at. On one you can see this jig I made to use the ponce wheel. But the jury is out on that too (I'm not that happy with it). Anyway, opinions welcome!!!! Ron /Homer

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

Hi Bruce, I recently started my Charles Morgan and will be watching your build as you're further along than I am! I just finished planking the hull and using some Hobby Lite to fill some low spots and any seam openings. I plan on coppering the hull. I'm not going to use shiny copper plates. I like the look of the hull pattern on the box cover and have tested many things to get similar copper colors. I know it isn't true to form but I really like the look. And, believe it or not, I found a Charles Morgan in a museum that had a similar color scheme on the hull! I asked Frank at Model Expo who built the one on the box and how they got the effect. He wasn't positive but thought the builder used a paper/cardboard stock with paint!!! I'm still testing the colors on the copper and will soon be involved in that application! 
 
When you write about some of the shipyard accidents you have had I can relate!!! I'm 58 and it seems I can be careful putting my hand into a delicate position. It's the pulling it away and smashing things att he same time that is upsetting!!! Glad I'm not the only one. You're doing a nice job and I'm almost ready to upload some more of my build pics. Talk to you soon. Ron 

Hi Everyone,
 
I’m Frank from Massachusetts.
 
I have been working on my Corel Wasa for about 2 years now. My parents visited the ship in Sweden 2 years ago and brought me back some books and plans of the ship. I selected the Corel kit for my build, and  I have been so inspired by the fantastic work of other Wasa logs that I thought I would create my own log for your review. I will skip the pictures of the keel and framing photos and start in on the gun port construction and slowly build my log to where I am currently. (Just finishing the bow section!) Let me know your thoughts!
 
I cut and enlarged the width of the gun port channels supplied with the kit, in order to accommodate the framing of the gunport openings. Then I made a full set of false gun carriages for the guns to sit on. slotted the backs of the gunport frames, so the guns could be inserted and then glued down onto the false carriages. Then I glued a "floor: to the frames so the carriages can sit on them at the correct height.


 
First set of planks with the gun ports set at the correct height.

 
Both rows of gun port openings completed with 1st layer of planking

 
 
 
 
 

The build continues. I planked between the Planksheer and the Main Rail. Admittedly, I struggled at the bow. I only had to do some minor filling for now. I then took a small break and was messing around with how I will do the copper plates. I purchased some chemicals and applied then to the copper. I then made a bunch of plates on a copper strip and used Acrylic paint with very light strokes. 
 
Now, if you remember I very much like the look of the Charles Morgan on the box cover of Model Shipways box. I also did some intense searching and found two other Charles Morgan's built and one placed in a museum. It too had the same look at the box cover (it wasn't the same model). So, the jury is out how or which plates I'll use below the water line. I know what I want to do isn't true to form but darn it... I really like the look!  
 
I've uploaded some pics of where I'm at. On one you can see this jig I made to use the ponce wheel. But the jury is out on that too (I'm not that happy with it). Anyway, opinions welcome!!!! Ron /Homer