Captain Poison

I'm using Dremel Micro (I bought it in December 2014 ) and in my opinion is amazing for small jobs,you can use drill bits from 51mm to 3.2mm.
Like I said is for small jobs,it comes with 5-speed, 1 or 2 you can have a great accuracy. Speeds up 1 or 2 is too much for this small Dremel and is not recommended to use it at high speeds for a long time.
 
For me is a great tool and I recommend it for the type of work that we do,after you try it,you fall in love (tip: ideal for round dogs nails after cutting)

Once the jib and foresail halliards were done all I really had to do was rig the flag halliard.  This will complete the rigging.....once I add the rope coils to all belaying points.
 
The flag halliard (.018 light brown) Is run through the simulated sheave on the starboard side of the ball truck on top of the mast.    Both ends run down to the deadeyes where they are belayed.   One to each deadeye.   Then they are finished up with some rope coils so the belaying looks credible. 
 

I adjusted the tension on all lines and then finished every belaying point off with a nice neat rope coil.  The flag was made in teh usual way and you will get one with the rigging package.   This pretty much finishes off the model.  Here are some photos.  The only thing I have left to do is make a few oars.   I will get to that soon.   But the model is pretty much done.  
 
The grapnel was finished off with some .025 rope as well.
 
Let me know if you have any questions.  I will now try and catch up with the instructions so you guys can get this far too!!!
 







 
 
 
 

I have also added the central plansheer and am working forward with the forecastle plansheer and timberheads at the same time
 
Regards
Paul 

I'm using Dremel Micro (I bought it in December 2014 ) and in my opinion is amazing for small jobs,you can use drill bits from 51mm to 3.2mm.
Like I said is for small jobs,it comes with 5-speed, 1 or 2 you can have a great accuracy. Speeds up 1 or 2 is too much for this small Dremel and is not recommended to use it at high speeds for a long time.
 
For me is a great tool and I recommend it for the type of work that we do,after you try it,you fall in love (tip: ideal for round dogs nails after cutting)

I'm using Dremel Micro (I bought it in December 2014 ) and in my opinion is amazing for small jobs,you can use drill bits from 51mm to 3.2mm.
Like I said is for small jobs,it comes with 5-speed, 1 or 2 you can have a great accuracy. Speeds up 1 or 2 is too much for this small Dremel and is not recommended to use it at high speeds for a long time.
 
For me is a great tool and I recommend it for the type of work that we do,after you try it,you fall in love (tip: ideal for round dogs nails after cutting)

I'm using Dremel Micro (I bought it in December 2014 ) and in my opinion is amazing for small jobs,you can use drill bits from 51mm to 3.2mm.
Like I said is for small jobs,it comes with 5-speed, 1 or 2 you can have a great accuracy. Speeds up 1 or 2 is too much for this small Dremel and is not recommended to use it at high speeds for a long time.
 
For me is a great tool and I recommend it for the type of work that we do,after you try it,you fall in love (tip: ideal for round dogs nails after cutting)

Happy New Year to all.
 
For reasons that are not clear even to me, I began work on the yards with the main boom and gaff.Each was made from dowel, appropriately tapered. The gaff has strip wood jaws and a parrel made from very small beads. the boom is mounted with a gooseneck made from two eyebolts. Boom rigging consists  of topping lifts and sheets. The gaff rigging has peak and throat halyards and vangs.  I have chosen to omit much of the sail rigging, although I will probably do some limited amount on the square yards.
 
Bob

Some history. Diploma hand-painted with paints. 03/04.1981
 
Pawel

Continuation. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Pawel

Continuation. 
 
 

 

 
 
 
Pawel 

And here is the result! Without claims on the standard... Material-steel wire after heating.( annealing's.)

Continuation. 
 
 

 

 
Paweł 

Continuation.
 
 
 
 
 
Pawel
 

more photo

more photo

Thanks to the members on the CAD threads, I tried using Autodesk's Fusion 360 software to build a second version of the cannon, and it was very high quality; I also converted the earlier model with the insignia to the STL file type needed for 3-D printers, as shown below. But, it all came to nothing when I got the quote for 3-D printing at an online service. For the 74 guns it was going to be $556 for the lowest level of refinement, up to $1950 for the highest level of refinement. Way too much for a retirement budget, especially since I have been told that they will still show the layers as they build up. 3-D printing is no longer an option. On to other ideas.
 
I realize that I was attracted to this because the digital model shows all of the wonderful, nuanced detail of the cannon itself, at a scale that looks real. But when this is shrunk down to 3/16" scale giving a 2" long cannon, most of the nuance disappears.  I was disappointed to lose what I know should be there. Perhaps the best thing is to print out a large image of the digital cannon and pin it on the wall of my shop, to remind me what the model cannon represent!
 
Mark

Just answered your question at:
 

I am proceeding with fabrication of the cannon. I decided that this would be a good time to try a couple of strategies, to see which one gives the best results, and also to build my skills in a few new things. I will try duplicating from a template, reworking the casting I tried earlier, and 3-D printing.
 
I have started making the the duplicating template, as seen below, and also creating the digital file for 3-D printing. Regarding the digital model, I am struggling with how to get the king's insignia to curve to the gun surface. I am using TurboCad for Mac, if anyone has a suggestion for doing this.  I will also post this question in the CAD part of this website.
 
Mark

Hull sanded down. I always use a sanding block to get a smooth surface. Just using 80 grit for now, but after the next round of primer and putty, will switch to about 150 grit.

I wish you all a happy Christmas

 

Valdivia has other nautical attractions in addition to the forts. The town's waterfront hosts a variety of tour boats that visit the forts by sea as well as exploring a large nature reserve upriver.
The large structure at center is the town's market, where a wonderful mix of fresh produce, cheese, and seafood are sold. The seafood stalls back up to the water, making disposal of offal and other fresh refuse easy. Chile's fresh seafood is one of the country's greatest assets to a visitor. Lest this seem wasteful or polluting, a large population of gulls and sea lions happily takes care of anything going over the side:
 

Among the interesting vessels tied up along the waterfront, we found an old Chilean Navy submarine (open for tours, but not when we were there) and this modern patrol vessel:
 

The region also hosted many interesting fishing boats. Most noticeable were a distinct style of open boat, always painted red and yellow, an example of which I saw in the Valparaiso Museuo Naval. These, however, were often rigged with simple triangular sails. Looking out to sea from the Niebla Fort, I could see a series of these far out with their sails rigged, but my camera wasn't good enough to capture them. Here are two not-so-great photos of the type in harbor:
 


I wanted to learn more about these, but couldn't get clear answers from local fishermen. When I asked what they were called, for example, all I could get was "lancha", which is a generic Spanish word for "launch" or "boat". Online searches have turned up nothing more (not even better photos), and my Spanish isn't good enough to dig deep into historical archives. If/when I return, I'd like to focus on learning more about these; they were the first time I've ever seen sail-based fishing boats in actual operation. They'd make a really interesting modeling project if I could get enough information and better photos.
 
Much of this part of the coast reminded me of northern California or southern Oregon, with rocky headlands separating beaches and isolated fishing villages. A particularly nice location is Curiñanco, to the north, where a nature reserve protects huge old trees on steep slopes above the water and a rocky beach generates beautiful waves and preserves some really interesting bedrock geology (what looked to us like deposits from past tsunamis along this very tectonically active coast).

I dont want hijack Johanns topic but to answer.....No I dont have any plans to offer it.  Being a one man factory, its tough enough to make what I already offer.  I couldnt possibly stock another 8 sizes in another material or color.  I just dont have the time.
 
But for those of you who have a ropewalk....you can order 
 
Gutermann Mara Thread...color 2899
 
But you need to go to the industrial division to get the sizes which arent available retail.
 
You will need Mara 70.....   Mara 30.... and Mara 15..... thread in that color.
 
I experimented after making the rope and found that if you knot off the ends and place them on a cookie sheet,  place them in the oven at 275 degrees for 7-10 minutes.   Then rope looks the same afterwards and wont unravel.
 
Chuck

That is some great looking rope you have made there.  I am also someone that has been biased by tradition and try to only use natural materials for my rope.  Silk is OK but it is too shiny for me and very slippery so it tends to unravel after you make it.  In some instances it unravels quite a bit like morerope.  But I suspect you have experienced that too especially on the larger ropes.
 
I was quite surprised about 4 months ago however with the prevailing thought about only using linen or cotton for scale ropes.  I was hired by a major well known museum in Europe (I wont mention their name) to make several thousand feet of rope for them.  They were going to use it to restore a contemporary model....and also to rig a newer model.  But they told me they have now decided that polyester scale ropes are being used from this point forward because of its longevity and its crispness and beauty.  It really lays up like real rope.  They have (like all of us) been unable to find good quality linen  or even cotton that isnt fuzzy or lumpy or that requires custom dying.  The custom dying opens up a whole host of other issues for them.
 
So anyway,  they specified polyester rope made the same way I make my other rope which they have purchased many times before.   But this time they also specified the brand and color they wanted for the polyester thread I was to use.
 
It does unravel like mad.....just like morope....BUT they are aware of this and use a conservatoires glue that is used to stop fragile textiles from fraying and deteriorating on it before they cut it.  They seemed to have a whole plan set up for now accepting the use of this material.
 
Below is a photo of some of that rope I made for them.  Its beautiful and I like its appearance and handling more than the rope I sell.  I even considered switching to it for all of my rope.  But then I thought model builders wouldnt get used to how it unravels.....it really unravels if you dont glue or burn the ends.   Just thought I would share that while you are making your experiments.  There are actually two colors they specified for all running rigging.   Both are in the photo.  No fuzz and no lumps and it laid up the best I could have asked for.
 

 

Chris,
 
Nice article,
 
There is only one rule I tend to follow in respect of eBay and that is.........don't use it.
 
Regards
 
Richmond

Had a bit of practice in carving.
Installed Beretand. Fitted Kluisbord.