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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Mathew Baker. Can you identify any drop strakes? Grab your magnifying glass and photo editing tools. Neither the Newport Carrack nor the Contarina 1 yielded me any results. What sucks is that the outer planking for pretty much all of these ships has rotted away. It seems as though the Mary Rose has a sort of prototypical drop strake system. However, good luck finding a picture of the outside of the actual hull. This reconstruction of a Venetian medieval ship shows stealers at the stern, but no drop planks. Imagine banging your head against a brick wall because your friend wants to plank his model a certain way. Couldn't be me! Until an intact shipwreck is found, which it likely never will be, we will never know. Someone's interpretation has got to be correct.
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I have seen Amati Coca's with drop strakes, and while it looks nice, i don't think it's accurate. Maybe we should start a new debate/controversy on MSW? The bottom line is we have no evidence, so either way can count as valid. Don't you love working with practically zero evidence outside eight-hundred-year-old buried shipwrecks and inaccurate art?
- 508 replies
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I will not use drop strakes on the Senora Fielden. I will, however, use stealers.
- 508 replies
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I have never seen a period drawing or engraving of a ship of the time with drop strakes, and never seen an honest reconstruction with them either. It wouldn't be bad if it's painted and you can't see them. Go ahead!
- 508 replies
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Are you sure drop strakes had been invented by that point? I heard somewhere else that they were a late 15-early 16th century invention, or later.
- 508 replies
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Probably not. If you could somehow display it in the middle of the room (if your wife will let you) it would be possible for it to be seen from both sides.
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- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
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If the ship were engaging another ship in battle when the two vessels were side-by-side both travelling in the same direction, one side's guns would be open and firing and the other side would be closed.
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- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
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I love how the picture you took looks just like the historical photo.
- 282 replies
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- Bluenose
- Model Shipways
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I haven't been doing much in the past week or so. This week I have had more time than usual, so I decided to work on the boat. I made all 16 rope coils and attached them to the boat last night. Then, today, I stained the bottom of the hull a clear gloss. Then comes the fun part. I painted the stand a little differently this time. It's a clear stand. On the bottom side, i painted some splotches of green, and covered that with brown. Then, on the top, i painted two shades of blue, intentionally making it not uniform, mostly so all the different colors could be seen. I quite like it.
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To stain, i use the following paints: Citadel Nuln Oil, Citadel Agrax Earthshade, and Folk Arts Antiquing Medium. The latter works marvelously well, as can be seen on my Spanish Galleon.
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The reason your weathering looked horrible, as you put it, was because you had the wrong paints for the job. I am assuming you were using Revell paints. Revell paints are generally of very poor quality and not suitable for weathering. To weather, you need a stain. Revell doesn't give you those.
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It doesn't have to be. Most people who build with wood stain their ships in large swaths, with wide strokes of the brush. I am pretty bad at painting as well, but i manage. "I'm not artistic enough" was an excuse I gave for a long time before i made my second model. EVERYONE can get better, even you. I certainly did. Getting realistic weathering is a very simple, uncomplicated matter: basically, you smear a paint that looks like grime onto your model, and that's it. Simple as that. I have some paint recommendations for you.
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Today is Columbus day, so ironically, it's a great time to work on your Santa Maria model. I assume you are using the Mataro Nave as a reference? It looks like you took a significant amount of features and replicated them on your model, which is probably a good decision.
- 38 replies
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- Santa Maria
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