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Posts posted by allanyed
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37 pages of glorious information and weeks of pondering if transcribing them. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR POSTING.
Allan
- greenstone and mtaylor
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2
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1 hour ago, dunnock said:
I've never built a lapstrake boat before and I'm putting it off for as long as possible.
I find it as easy/difficult as carvel built planking. The only part that requires a good bit of extra diligence is the gain as the strakes near their ends. Which brings up a question that I had not considered until now and hopefully some member can answer. For the 17th century through the early 19th century was there gain forward and aft, or only forward? If the latter, is the transom shaped/notched to accept the laps to avoid gaps?
Allan
Gain
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9 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:
Paints have three principal ingredients; The pigment, the resin, and the vehicle.
That comment brought a pleasant flashback to my time in the seventies working for PPG coatings and resins division and the various grinding mills, mixing, and filling equipment we used.
Allan
- mtaylor, Old Collingwood, Canute and 2 others
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5
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15 hours ago, JoanneC said:
I’m having trouble figuring how to get back to you. You can email me at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Thanks!
I hope a moderator removes your email address as you are opening a huge can of worms of unsolicited junk for yourself by posting it. You can add your email address to your profile and PM folks. I am writing to you now as I live in SW FL as well.
Allan
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9 hours ago, Montaigne said:
I'm considering substituting some of the wood in the Model Shipways Bounty launch kit,
Hi Montaigne
Looking at photos of the kit it looks nice. You may want to study the contemporary drawings of the 23 foot launch at RMG as well. There appear to be some differences in their modern day kit design and the contemporary drawings. Scantlings for the 23 foot launch can be found here at MSW if you want compare contemporary based measurements with those of the kit parts. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/#comments
Allan
- Keith Black, Montaigne and oakheart
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3
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EE
My first ocean scuba dive was around a WWII submarine pier at the north fork but that was in '69 so I have no idea where it was exactly, but it was COLD in April or May. We got no fish there but we did get a deer (with the car) on the way there. Good memories for me and I am sure MANY more for you.
Cheers
Allan
- Keith Black, East Ender and mtaylor
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LOL!!!! I need to build a 30 foot long boat, 28 foot pinnace and 18 foot yawl for a 50 gun of 1695. I did the drawings, now just a matter of making sawdust when I have a chance to get to them. At least it is only three, not five or six!! I am pretty sure I will be going with making appropriate plugs to the inside of the frames and bending holly over the plugs versus cutting frames. Still might worth a try cutting a frame or two to see if it can be done. I have some English boxwood that I am sure will work but not enough for all three boats and 50 or 60 frames. Castello might work, but I have some doubts until giving it a go.
Thanks for the laugh Craig
allan
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Welcome to MSW Tom
Allan
- thibaultron and mtaylor
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Craig,
My apologies if I missed it, but where did you get the amount of overlap of the floors and futtocks? I know I have seen it somewhere but can't remember where and if it was based on contemporary information. Also, do you know if this construction goes back to the 17th century or did it come about sometime in the 18th century?
Thanks
Allan
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8 hours ago, oakheart said:
so as a proof of concept it worked.
Comments please.
You have convinced me to try this method on my next go at a ship's boat. I can see how this can be used with the floors and futtocks being set up as separate pieces as well. It will be interesting to see how it compares with traditional plug former methods at 1:48 or smaller.
Anxiously waiting for your next installment!!
Allan
- mtaylor, Keith Black and oakheart
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Super warm welcome to MSW EE.
Were you anywhere near Goldsmith Inlet in Peconic? It has been a few years now, but there was some great clamming in that little bay! And then you wind up in the land of Chesapeake Bay salty bottoms - you are a lucky guy!! Starting with the GB dory is a very smart move. I will not be surprised to see you tackle a bugeye or skipjack down the road.
Allan
- mtaylor and East Ender
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2
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I know clue and clew have been used interchangeably but from what I can find clew came first.
When did clew become clue?
The spelling clue is first attested mid-15c. The sense shift is originally in reference to the clew of thread given by Ariadne to Theseus to use as a guide out of the Labyrinth in Greek mythology.
What this has to do with the corner of a sail, I have no idea.
Allan
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Mark,
What you have relayed makes sense. Sorry, I missed what vessel you were building.
Allan
- mtaylor, Some Idea and Keith Black
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32 minutes ago, No Idea said:
Here's a question for you all though - were barrels stored upright or on their side in the hold?????????
I may wrong but I am pretty sure powder casts were only stored in the magazine foward (and maybe in the hanging magazine aft on larger ships), not in the open hold. If you are building a cross section model that is near midships, I am pretty sure there would not be any powder casks. Depending on the era there were charcoal beds in the magazine area on which powder was stored to absorb moisture to aid in keeping the powder dry. As to upright or on their sides, I believe that the barrels below the orlop and platforms were usually on their sides, but the powder casks in the magazines may be a different story.
Allan
- Some Idea, mtaylor and Keith Black
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2
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I just found this on the internet. I like the first material but would not waste the second suggestion on labels
Rubbing Alcohol or Vodka
If you want to know how to get sticker residue off plastic, wood, or glass, rubbing alcohol is an effective solvent that's safe for most surfaces. Vodka is a good substitute. Wet a paper towel or clean rag with rubbing alcohol, and rub the residue to lift it off. For stubborn stickers, lay an alcohol-soaked rag on the area, and let it sit for several minutes to soften the residue. Use the rag to rub off what's left behind.
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10 hours ago, Peter6172 said:
that and trying to peal off the backing on the self adhesive label material...
I usually use a stiff back razor and it goes quickly. I never tried any solvent but I suppose one of us should try a test piece and use acetone or alcohol or some other solvent to see how that works out. Grant's idea sure seems to have merit as well. I would try Scotch tape or similar as it is smoother than masking tape and even easier to remove without residue.
Allan
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Thanks Montaigne. There are a couple others that have expressed interest in helping as well. Hopefully we can build a little team and get some great things made for the members. Please PM with your contact information and will I forward the beginnings that I already have when I get back home this weekend.
THANKS AGAIN
Allan
- thibaultron, Montaigne and mtaylor
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Welcome to MSW, and congrats. You have made perhaps the best possible choice of models for starting into this fabulous hobby of ours. Don't be afraid to sttart a build log and never hesitate to ask questions. Then again, you may get many more answers than you want, what with 43,000+ members😀
Allan
- Keith Black, mtaylor, Bryan Woods and 2 others
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4
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20 hours ago, Peter6172 said:
(not that there's anything wrong with the US but postage is awful).
You speak the truth. Even within the US it is spotty most times and can be downright awful during the holidays.
Allan
Greetings, new to the site and new to timber ship building.
in New member Introductions
Posted
Super warm welcome to MSW. Thank you for sharing your story with us!
May I suggest you start a build log for your project text and photos. I would bet you will get more views and invaluable help should you request any.
Allan