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allanyed

NRG Member
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Posts posted by allanyed

  1. 1 hour ago, dunnock said:

    I've never built a lapstrake boat before and I'm putting it off for as long as possible.

    I find it as easy/difficult as carvel built planking.  The only part that requires a good bit of extra diligence is the gain as the strakes near their ends.  Which brings up a question that I had not considered until now and hopefully some member can answer.  For the 17th century through the early 19th century was there gain forward and aft, or only forward?  If the latter, is the transom shaped/notched to accept the laps to avoid gaps?

    Allan

    Gain 

    171665229_Lapandgain.JPG.665bcfa7f2a5630232d524228fd5b020.JPG

  2. 9 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

    Paints have three principal ingredients;   The pigment, the resin, and the vehicle.

    That comment brought a pleasant flashback to my time in the seventies working for PPG coatings and resins division and the various grinding mills, mixing, and filling equipment we used.

    Allan 

  3. 15 hours ago, JoanneC said:

    I’m having trouble figuring how to get back to you.  You can email me at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx  Thanks!

    I hope a moderator removes your email address as you are opening a huge can of worms of unsolicited junk for yourself by posting it.   You can add your email address to your profile and PM folks.  I am writing to you now as I live in SW FL as well.

     

    Allan

  4. 9 hours ago, Montaigne said:

    I'm considering substituting some of the wood in the Model Shipways Bounty launch kit,

    Hi Montaigne

    Looking at photos of the kit it looks nice.   You may want to study the contemporary drawings of the 23 foot launch at RMG as well.   There appear to be some differences in their modern day kit design and the contemporary drawings.   Scantlings for the 23 foot launch can be found here at MSW if you want compare contemporary based measurements with those of the kit parts.     https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/#comments   

    Allan

  5. LOL!!!!   I need to build a 30 foot long boat, 28 foot pinnace and 18 foot yawl for a 50 gun of 1695.   I did the drawings, now just a matter of making sawdust when I have a chance to get to them.   At least it is only three, not five or six!!  I am pretty sure I will be going with making appropriate plugs to the inside of the frames and bending holly over the plugs versus cutting frames.     Still might worth a try cutting a frame or two to see if it can be done.  I have some English boxwood that I am sure will work but not enough for all three boats and 50 or 60 frames.   Castello might work, but I have some doubts until giving it a go.

     

    Thanks for the laugh Craig

     

    allan

  6. 8 hours ago, oakheart said:

    so as a proof of concept it worked.

    Comments please.

    You have convinced me to try this method on my next go at a ship's boat. I can see how this can be used with the floors and futtocks being set up as separate pieces as well.  It will be interesting to see how it compares with traditional plug former methods at 1:48 or smaller.   

     

    Anxiously waiting for your next installment!!

     

    Allan

  7. Super warm welcome to MSW EE.

    Were you anywhere near Goldsmith Inlet in Peconic?   It has been a few years now, but there was some great clamming in that little bay!   And then you wind up in the land of Chesapeake Bay salty bottoms -  you are a lucky guy!!   Starting with the GB dory is a very smart move.  I will not be surprised to see you tackle a bugeye or skipjack down the road. 

     

    Allan 

     

  8. I know clue and clew have been used interchangeably but from what I can find clew came first.   

    When did clew become clue?

    The spelling clue is first attested mid-15c. The sense shift is originally in reference to the clew of thread given by Ariadne to Theseus to use as a guide out of the Labyrinth in Greek mythology. 

    What this has to do with the corner of a sail, I have no idea.

     

    Allan

  9. 32 minutes ago, No Idea said:

    Here's a question for you all though - were barrels stored upright or on their side in the hold?????????

    I may wrong but I am pretty sure powder casts were only stored in the magazine foward (and maybe in the hanging magazine aft on larger ships), not in the open hold.  If you are building a cross section model that is near midships, I am pretty sure there would not be any powder casks.    Depending on the era there were charcoal beds in the magazine area on which powder was stored to absorb moisture to aid in keeping the powder dry.   As to upright or on their sides, I believe that the barrels below the orlop and platforms were usually on their sides, but the powder casks in the magazines may be a different story.   

    Allan

     

  10. I just found this on the internet.   I like the first material but would not waste the second suggestion on labels

     

    Rubbing Alcohol or Vodka

    If you want to know how to get sticker residue off plastic, wood, or glass, rubbing alcohol is an effective solvent that's safe for most surfaces. Vodka is a good substitute. Wet a paper towel or clean rag with rubbing alcohol, and rub the residue to lift it off. For stubborn stickers, lay an alcohol-soaked rag on the area, and let it sit for several minutes to soften the residue. Use the rag to rub off what's left behind.

  11. 10 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

    that and trying to peal off the backing on the self adhesive label material...

    I usually use a stiff back razor and it goes quickly.   I never tried any solvent but I suppose one of us should try a test piece and use acetone or alcohol or some other solvent to see how that works out.    Grant's idea sure seems to have merit as well.  I would try Scotch tape or similar as it is smoother than masking tape and even easier to remove without residue.

    Allan

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