allanyed

The Vanguard boats really are good, but alas, the scale is wrong for your 1:72 build as Alistair states.    It is not very difficult to make your own  boats and they will look realistic.   There are a lot of contemporary plans and all the scantlings needed readily available if you want to give that a try.
Allan

Thanks Druxey.  I will go with the modesty excuse, but truth is I forgot it was there.   Bruce I am PMing you regarding these pages
Allan

You are absolutely right, but it is worth it to do it correctly.  Yours is not only beautifully executed, the contrast in sizes of the ratlines and shrouds is fantastic.  We see a lot of models that have ratlines that are oversized in circumference.    Your rigging overall should be seen by everyone as it is a great example to try to  emulate.

Work in progress:

Tiziano,
I am very impressed that you only made one extra spoke on each set.  I tend to make several knowing I will lose at least one under the work bench and/or break one along the way.😀😀  Are you using a mill or some other unit to mill the grooves?    I don't remember if you and I discussed this when we met last year but for those without a mill, a mini table drill press to route out the grooves when making these parts can be used.  It is not really a recommended use of a press due to the types of bearings, but it worked out very well.
Allan
 
 
 
Allan

Progress on the gun port lids: Second quarter of the vessel, completed !!! I am starting to develop a technique to go a little bit faster and install these in an easier way.
 

 

 

 

 

 
This side is now completely finished, as far as gun port lids go.... Still plenty of things to do....
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Overall view of the beast...
 

 
I will be travelling to Europe for an extended period of time and thus, it may be a while before the next update.
 
Yves

Welcome to MSW Will.  Love your neck of the woods and its history.  Get to visit north and west of you with one of our boys and his family in New Hanover.   Love all the old stone homes including the Fisher Crouse house circa 1770.  Hope to see you have some fun here.
Allan
 
 

It is fantastic that you researched this.    Having done that I am guessing you realize gratings themselves look nothing like those from the kit.   You can make or get more realistic grating materials to go with the head ledges and coamings that you will be making.   I have only seen realistic looking after market gratings  from Syren, but hopefully there are others available as well.  Key things to remember are that the openings are typically 3" or smaller, there are no openings in the grating next to the head ledges and coamings, and the battens run fore and aft, not athwartships.  It might be preferable to make the gratings first, as close as possible to the size needed, then build the frame of coamings and head ledges around the grating.  Note that the head ledges and gratings round up on British ships.  Not sure if it was the same on Spanish ships like your Diana 1792.
Allan

Thanks Druxey.  I will go with the modesty excuse, but truth is I forgot it was there.   Bruce I am PMing you regarding these pages
Allan

Thanks Druxey.  I will go with the modesty excuse, but truth is I forgot it was there.   Bruce I am PMing you regarding these pages
Allan

It all looks great Ron. I presume those boat kits come with the main kit? They look bloody hard to plank. Hope that goes well. I used the excellent Vanguard Models kit for my boat but they'd be the wrong scale for Victory.

Sure, that's even going one better than doing it with the block attached to the mast or top. You don't have to approximate the entire length of the line, standing part and fall, but only the length you will need to belay the fall to the belaying pin or cleat when the standing part is set up to wherever it's going. The remainder of the fall is most easily made up in a coil and glued to the pin or cleat in such a way that it conceals the cut end of the fall and appears to be all one piece of the fall. It is important to make coils of the proper length of the fall, though and these will vary depending on how far the block is from the pin or cleat. You don't want a skinny little coil on a pin running to the mast top when it would take a lot more line in real life. Doing it in two pieces, fall and coil, reduces the amount of line you have to coil up at the block before you install the mast. These little temporary coils can start adding up pretty quickly sometimes. You'll want to devise some way of binding up the temporary coils on the mast. Some use masking tape. There is an instrument that orthodontists use to stretch and attach little quarter inch diameter rubber bands on orthodontic braces which I've always thought would be just the ticket for binding little coils like that, but I've never gotten around to getting one. What I've found works are common women's hair "bobby pins." They can be spread open with one hand to slide onto a coil being held in the other hand... if you don't mind your model looking like it's setting "spit curls" while you work on it. 
 
Here you go. I found that too. I'd have to play with one to be sure it would work easily for rope coils, but just maybe. Remember, "He who dies with the most tools wins!"
 
See: https://www.amazon.com/Separating-Placing-Orthodontic-Elastic-Bracket/dp/B09FQ4HL8V/ref=sr_1_8?adgrpid=1343603773294172&hvadid=83975306774136&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=p&hvtargid=kwd-83975580350394%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=28288_11087873&keywords=orthodontic+tool+for+rubber+bands&qid=1689559059&sr=8-8
 
And: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184121749659?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D251791%26meid%3Dbff28b2953c247259b8a64230c3a2239%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D292128222729%26itm%3D184121749659%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bAndUBSourceDemotionWithUltimatelyBoughtOfCoviewV1%26brand%3DOrmco&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A184121749659bff28b2953c247259b8a64230c3a2239|enc%3AAQAIAAABUPzGgyhK8D4QCApcBuWVQe1qsoN395NgJVWTF7eo2rfipPwdfCio0EI4F5H%2Bx0wtS8%2Fu%2Fr%2FRUxEZ1KxNtbAGuwQqNawa9Mz45LW45pYy0nuj71JF2aXsWVmm8A5Xr7t2iE8FTSY2j9w%2BVkQX95XY0T9rK6EzA9ZeC%2FHU7Nm7b3ARSOfzyH5wHBuCoLkOv2XL8qnMgdLOY9NTgiKiXpC2M6cXsFc3RuqCK5taBkW1e%2BiJLZxicfL3UKRodQUV%2B52sjBkM1liMwuhVn7laHbfbj938y3JipYdCbmp5qsvnkRz%2BKoSNEVB9T6j%2FHyW8T3o%2BEyn3TMJR9vG%2Ftd0YZ4FWo9eCjcx1touazjee%2BUlNPzGgH4zgbLTOsUmqbtcaga5q7yBppCr1RBM28mc1jxYKQlxCCRjCS27mWu%2BsRAqHHc4%2FHq9BO%2FU9k%2FYKlp33Hv5doQ%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675
 
 

Steel gives all the dimensions of each part of a capstan on Folios XXXVIII to XL. Also, these are given Allan's own book, which he is too modest to mention! It Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805, Allan Yedlinsky, SeaWatchBooks,2014, pages 184-194. 

You are absolutely right, but it is worth it to do it correctly.  Yours is not only beautifully executed, the contrast in sizes of the ratlines and shrouds is fantastic.  We see a lot of models that have ratlines that are oversized in circumference.    Your rigging overall should be seen by everyone as it is a great example to try to  emulate.

Bruce,
I am not sure how much information in Lavery's Arming and Fitting book will be useful, but it has a number of drawings amongst the  9 pages describing single and double capstans from the 17th through the early 19th centuries.
Allan

Belated Happy Birthday FM.   And best of luck with your forthcoming classes and endeavors in the maritime history field. 
Allan

Bruce,
I am not sure how much information in Lavery's Arming and Fitting book will be useful, but it has a number of drawings amongst the  9 pages describing single and double capstans from the 17th through the early 19th centuries.
Allan

Bruce,
I am not sure how much information in Lavery's Arming and Fitting book will be useful, but it has a number of drawings amongst the  9 pages describing single and double capstans from the 17th through the early 19th centuries.
Allan

First question: 
How was a capstan measured? Multiple contracts relevant to my subject use the phrase '... a Main Jeer Capstand abaft on the upper Deck of 1f’ 11in’’ Diameter in the Partners'.  
I get it, this measurement is the effective footprint of the mechanism as it sits on the partner, but on the face of it it says nothing about the spindle, loading or diameter of the trundle head. So I'm thinking there must have been a table of proportions to give all dimensions from the one specified, as was the case for just about every other thing made in HM dockyards at the time.  This is backed up by the contracts also stating the capstan shall  '... in every respect to be completed as is done in His Majesty’s Yards.'
 
Second question:
What determined the length of a capstan's bars? Was it space available, ie as long as possible? Or was it a figure derived from a set of proportions as mentioned in Q1 above?  I thought I had a table giving this relationship but can't find it.
 
For context, it is for my Berwick, (74) of 1779.
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Bruce

Thanks Allan
 
For this build I have just gone with whatever Bill Shoulders has shown on his plans.
I have no idea if they are accurate or not.
I will try and find somewhere in the UK  where I can get things 3D resin printed, I have tried cannons at this scale on my FDM printer and they do not look good.
 
Tim

British 74's were launched starting about 1760 so rigging drawings from before that may not be applicable.   Other than the photo of the Bellona model that you posted,  the drawings or photos that you copied might not be applicable. 
 
Did you study the photos of the Hercules 1759 (or Thunderer)?  They are applicable and may be of some help.   https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66271   Maybe contact the museum to see if they can give you more help as well.
 
Allan 

British 74's were launched starting about 1760 so rigging drawings from before that may not be applicable.   Other than the photo of the Bellona model that you posted,  the drawings or photos that you copied might not be applicable. 
 
Did you study the photos of the Hercules 1759 (or Thunderer)?  They are applicable and may be of some help.   https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66271   Maybe contact the museum to see if they can give you more help as well.
 
Allan 

Steve
What John wrote is the best way to go in my opinion.  If your hull is a little out of shape compared to the plans this method will compensate for any variation.  I would cut two at the same time so one can be flipped over and be a mirror image rather than making two tracings.  If the variation of the hull itself starboard to port is slight, the cap will cover this up as they will be symmetrical.
Allan     

Dick,
Take what Phil wrote very seriously. My go-to pickling material is Sparex but there are surely other brands or methods.  Once pickled tinse the piece with water and then blacken with BC or other brands.  Remember that once pickled  do not touch the piece with your fingers as any oil on your fingers can screw up the blackening.   
Allan
 
 

If you plan to paint the cap rail, cutting it from a sheet of thin craft plywood might make things easier.  Craft plywood in metric thicknesses that closely approximate 1/64”, 1/32”, 1/16” and 1/8” is usually available from craft stores such as Michaels.  You might also find at hardware and home improvement stores.  If you intend to build more ship models it’s handy stuff to have on hand.
 
if you feel that you don’t have the skill to saw this to shape, cut it out oversized and sand to its final shape.
 
Roger