allanyed

I totally agree and would bet there are a lot of members that feel the same.
Allan

Tom - as you rotate them they move closer to the hull - hence they clamp against the hull. If they were concentric they wouldn't do this. In effect they are acting like a cam.

While the base and stand is another masterpiece, I find that my eye is drawn to the shiny and away from the model. This may be heresy, but would chemically darkening the metal be something that you might consider?

This winter I’m working on a “grandfather” repair and renewal project.
 
My grandfather was shipbuilding engineer, and was drafted in WW1, spending the war in neutral Netherlands on one of the fortresses of the defence of Amsterdam. That’s where my last project came from. 
From the 1920s until the end of WW2 he worked in Dutch East Indies (Indonesia) for a shipping company. In 1947 after repatriation to Netherlands he filed a patent on a method to launch a lifeboat from a davit through a clever use of a pivot. Two crewmembers each rotated a handle over 180 degrees, which swings out the lifeboat, descending slightly under its own weight. Then lines are slipped to defend it to the sea.

 
To help him sell the patent, he had a demo model built, published an article in a trade journal, and even made a “cartoon movie” from a set of cards to show the operation. I think about a dozen ships were equipped with the system.


 
The demo model survived the past 75 years or so, but was in somewhat of a state when I received it from a cousin before Xmas. The boat is solid. Just needed a paintjob but is unsuitable for radio control.
 
My plan has three phases
- repair the model
- build a RC controlled new lifeboat to be launched from it
- possibly make the Davit RC as well
 
the repair was fairly straight forward, involved re-soldering the brass and copper past, new paint job and polishing up the blocks and brass parts.

in the last photo, the solid wood boat is half painted, I decided to make a new boat using “plank on frames”. The new boat will be slightly shorter with room for a rudder, and will have a prop obviously.
 
To obtain a plan of the frames, I marked out frames on the keel of the boat model, and used a home made measuring device to measure out the shape of each frame. 

from that I drew the frames on a 7mm pine plank, and the keel on another one (slightly shorter and with opening for the prop).

also the planks themselves were sawed from pinewood, and I’ve just started mounting the frames and keel on a build plank for planking.  TBC…

Ain't that the truth!!!   I imagine more would get into it, but no doubt investment in space and tools can be a major issue.  Then again, for tools, add up the cost of 3 or 4 high quality kits and this would get a nice little shop going.  

Hi, and thanks Johann, and thanks to all ☺️
 
Parts of the carriage  of 9 and 18 pound:
 
 

If you or a friend have a scanner on your printer, you can scan the images and print on label paper and use these instead of tracing.  Quick and easy.
Allan

Legos work in a lot of instances.   Machinest squares work better in other cases.  As for your situation Legos may not be well suited.  I look forward to seeing your solution.  As to examples, there are many hundreds of build logs here at MSW, some of which have photos of their building set up.  They can be as sophisticated as that shown by Ed Tosti in his build logs or something simpler but using the same principals.   If you spend some hours perusing the build logs you might find something you feel fits your needs.  Look at the both scratch bulit and kit build logs. 
 
Allan

In the book " The Frigate Constitution And Other Historic Ships " F. Alexander Magoun has a chapter on the Mayflower.
The information seems to be based on standards for similar vessels, with no mention of documented facts, but he speaks of some features as if they are facts.
 
He offers a plan for the deck.

I have circled where he shows the ' Stove Pipe '
 

However, he wrote of a 'galley' that must be under the forecastle deck show above.

This is what he writes about the pumps.  The ' gun deck ' would have been below what he shows as ' The Waist ' in the plan above, so the pumps he describes would not have been visible if your model is similar.
 

Here is what he says about the capstan.  It seems unlikely that the bars would have been mounted permanently, but others may know if it was in fact the practice on these type of boats. 
There is no mention of a binnacle, so it is possible just a compass in a box was used as needed.
 
In lieu of other trusted sources, I think you will be safe in following these suggestions, and making it look good to satisfy your goal.
 
I notice in the image Allan provided you can see the kettle and pumps as Magoun describes, but with the capstan forward of the main mast.

A difficult repair!
Matching the coating (some type of plastic) was nearly impossible. Especially, trying to get it as glossy as the rest of the hull.
Turned out ok... I made several other repairs to the bowsprit, mast and replaced some of the missing or damaged rigging. Re-glued some of the loose hardware and cleaned her up!
Looks good... going back to the clubhouse on Tuesday.
Thanks again for the help and comments.

Thanks for comments & likes.  @allanyed I will have a look into that, I know that the copper plates are not particularly historically accurate.  Mine are still 'maturing' in the shed in genuine seawater from Spithead!  
 
Some progress in the lass few weeks.  
I've completed the gunport and decided to line them all at this stage - against what the build manual says - I figured it was going to be very fiddly to recess them all accurately by 1mm after the second planking, especially the lower ports where there is only the edge of the 1st planing to adhere to.  For these I glued some 6mmx1.5mm lime wood (offcuts from the 1st planking) to the 10mm walnut to give a step which could be better glued.  When dry the walnut sanded to the level of the 1st planking.   I know this is going to mean I'm going to have to cut the 2nd planking cleanly to the outer edge of the lining later.  But I think thats going to be easier than the alternative - I may live to regret, but let's see!!
 
Following from previous post I did have to redo all the upper gunports along one side as the sizes cut were too small.  I paid too much attention to the template.  The reviewed sizes are those of the gunport lids.  I should have looked at this first but likely realised before too much damage was done.
 
Also taking the opportunity at this point to drill the holes for the lower deck 'false cannon'.  Again its easier access at this point, without 2nd planking and gunport lids to get good access with the drill as they are required quite a way in so a long drill bit needed.  I built a plug with a central hole to ensure consistency & accuracy.
 
Round houses built and added - relatively straightforward.
Working on the quarter galleries now.  Starting with planking the rear decking.
 
Malcolm
 
 
 

Welcome to the fray!!
Allan

There are a lot of drawings of Dutch fluyts on the internet.  I have no idea as to the accuracy including the one below.   
Allan

Welcome to the fray!!
Allan

I finally managed to get all the templates for the aft section of EURALUS peeled and stuck to the appropriate thickness cherry planks. I have also managed to get the reference board cut, drilled and mounted to the building board. Some weeks to do at each end is all that remains but I can get onto frame assembly and dry fitting to the keel now.

Hi Scotty
Glad to see you started the build log.   I really appreciate the story behind it and that you picked up the model to see it through to the end!
 
For the future...... consider studying the hull planking tutorial in the articles data base by David Antscherl here at MSW and the four part YouTube videos on planking by Chuck Passaro.  You can find them it on-line and in an old post here at MSW https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22975-chuck-passaros-planking-videos-where-are-they/. 
 
Rather than go into a long explanation, compare the results of two photos below.  In the lower pic, note how all planks are tapered to nearly half their widest point and end at the rabbet.   Again, this is something to consider for the future.   If your model  has two layers of planking, you may want to give it a try for the outer layer.   It takes most of us a bunch of do-overs but gets easier with experience.
 
Allan

 
 
 

Speaking of dodgy solutions, that Chinese spy balloon flew right over my farm this afternoon. Don't get political, I just thought it was fascinating to see a world event right overhead in the middle of rural Missouri. Darned thing shone like a star in the sky. Posted a YouTube video: 
 
 

EE
My first ocean scuba dive was around a WWII submarine pier at the north fork but that was in '69 so I have no idea where it was exactly, but it was COLD in April or May.    We got no fish there but we did get a deer (with the car) on the way there.   Good memories for me and I am sure MANY more for you.
Cheers
Allan
 

I just found this on the internet.   I like the first material but would not waste the second suggestion on labels
 
Rubbing Alcohol or Vodka
If you want to know how to get sticker residue off plastic, wood, or glass, rubbing alcohol is an effective solvent that's safe for most surfaces. Vodka is a good substitute. Wet a paper towel or clean rag with rubbing alcohol, and rub the residue to lift it off. For stubborn stickers, lay an alcohol-soaked rag on the area, and let it sit for several minutes to soften the residue. Use the rag to rub off what's left behind.

Super warm welcome to MSW.  Thank you for sharing your story with us!
May I suggest you start a build log for your project text and photos.  I would bet you will get more views and invaluable help should you request any.
Allan

I just found this on the internet.   I like the first material but would not waste the second suggestion on labels
 
Rubbing Alcohol or Vodka
If you want to know how to get sticker residue off plastic, wood, or glass, rubbing alcohol is an effective solvent that's safe for most surfaces. Vodka is a good substitute. Wet a paper towel or clean rag with rubbing alcohol, and rub the residue to lift it off. For stubborn stickers, lay an alcohol-soaked rag on the area, and let it sit for several minutes to soften the residue. Use the rag to rub off what's left behind.

EE
My first ocean scuba dive was around a WWII submarine pier at the north fork but that was in '69 so I have no idea where it was exactly, but it was COLD in April or May.    We got no fish there but we did get a deer (with the car) on the way there.   Good memories for me and I am sure MANY more for you.
Cheers
Allan
 

That comment brought a pleasant flashback to my time in the seventies working for PPG coatings and resins division and the various grinding mills, mixing, and filling equipment we used.
Allan 

That comment brought a pleasant flashback to my time in the seventies working for PPG coatings and resins division and the various grinding mills, mixing, and filling equipment we used.
Allan 

I hope a moderator removes your email address as you are opening a huge can of worms of unsolicited junk for yourself by posting it.   You can add your email address to your profile and PM folks.  I am writing to you now as I live in SW FL as well.
 
Allan