allanyed

Since interest has been shown in this tool by many including myself, here goes a hopefully, full review.  I will preface this by saying that this tool is NOT for everyone.   To make it clear:  if you are expecting out-of-box performance from this, stop reading and go do something else.  I fear this is going to be rather long winded....
 
Background
My scroll saw skills leave a lot to be desired and for repetitive items like knees, beams and even cutting small pieces for carving is an issue.  So rather than stand in front of a scroll saw for hours and end up tossing 30-50% of the pieces into the scrap box, I thought about a laser cutter.  The so-called “hobby lasers” seem appealing.  Reasonably low power requirements, low costs, and relatively smaller size appeals to me.
 
Research
The caveats that I read about Laser Cutters and followed in the research are: 
Use a company in the country you are in or will provide support to you. Use a company that has been in business for more than a couple of years. I’ve looked at the imported China Lasers (~$500 US) but have found much wrong with them in the reviews.  Extra costs of dealing with an import agent to get the unit out of customs and shipped to you, generally mediocre quality in the assembly, and then there’s the normal software that comes with the these products.  Also dealing with a seller in China leaves you high and dry without support.   I discovered two being “used” here locally.  One is not working and hasn’t from the time he got it a few months ago.  He’s in the process of replacing the PC board to be compatible with better software and fixing some damaged items like a broken laser tube.  The other, I saw it work, and tried my hand but the software (MoshiDraw) is incredibly bad.  The owner was running it on an XP PC as it wouldn’t run consistently in Win7 even in compatibility mode. 
 
I looked at another higher priced unit (~$4000 US base price with accessories adding up rapidly).  The unit was high quality, made in the US with some Chinese parts including the main board.  It used  LaserDraw software and from what I saw, the performance was adequate.  But as I was unable to sit down and try the woods we use, I can’t give a full report on it.  The owners use basswood and thin veneers for creating dollhouses, model railway buildings, etc.  The output seemed of good quality but again, it was not the woods or sizes we use.   My observation is that this is basically a hobby machine upgraded to being a production type.
 
The one I’m testing is the Micro-Mark brand (~$2000 US).  It comes with a 30 day refund guarantee which, if I determine this isn’t what will work for me, I’ll return it.   I read their claims that this machine is built to their specifications (http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/misc/the-micro-mark-difference.pdf) .  I know that some of us (myself included) have issues with certain practices which I won’t go into.  I will say that I won’t buy ripped off equipment.  This unit doesn’t appear ripped off but an upgraded Chinese unit.
 
I did not consider anything more powerful than 40W.  Maybe I should have, but there's also a cost factor that goes with that.
 
Pre-Order
The unit uses CorelLaser as its cutting software using an industry standard HP Plotter Driver and also Corel Draw.  I downloaded the manual and documentation from MM.  I also ordered a copy of CorelDraw X6 from Amazon.   CorelLaser works only with CorelDraw above version 13 so I bought a shrink wrapped, new-in-the-box program for $150 US.  I would suggest you do your homework on this.  X7, the latest from Corel is a subscription based program.  In other words, you pay every month for it.  I prefer to have a CD in my drawer just in case….
 
I spent a week or so refreshing myself on CorelDraw as the last time I used it was Version 5… yeah… been a few years.
 
Unpacking and Set-Up
I received this is 3 boxes, well packed in foam.   Unpacking is pretty straight forward.  I would suggest that the air pump and water pump NOT be removed from their bubble wrap as there is nothing on these items to indicate what they are.  I wish that MM had put a photo or two in the instruction manual to identify parts.
 
One thing that is needed is a GFI socket.  I’m using  a GFI adapter in case I wish at some future date, to move the cutter to a different place.
 
Set-up is pretty straight forward following the manual.  The hardest part was figuring out the exhaust setup without cutting a hole in the wall of the house.  Also, do NOT secure the exhaust unit to the cutter with tape.  Use #10 X 3/4” self-tapping screws.  There’s  bit a misfit between these parts and the tape will not hold it securely in place.  
 
Here's photos of the unit and all the accessories...

 
Testing Started
I used the factory settings and followed the instructions in the manual for the recommended passes and power.  Not a happy camper using boxwood.  The little nameplate is 1/8” thick boxwood.  Took  9 passes to cut.  Lots of charring.
 

 
I discovered the mirrors were off.  MM instructions are vague in the extreme and need some serious re-writing to be useful.   I Googled and eventually found the information I needed here:  http://dck40.blogspot.com/
Using other web sources, I discovered that the lens in the cutting head was upside down…  WTF!!!! This really irritated me.
 
After  spending a day going back and forth between all three mirrors and adjusting them, and then resetting the focus for the wood, here’s the next round.
 

 
I’m continuing to test and massage things.  This will take time.   I’m able to cut 3/16” boxwwod which requires multiple passes but as yet, not I’ve not tried ¼”  boxwood.
 
Overall Observations.
The learning curve on this machine is a vertical, straight line.  These machines are still in their infancy and not mature.  Documentation is extremely sparse although there are forums out there for laser cutters, getting to the information you need for a particular type or model is a bit overwhelming and I consider myself a knowledgeable Googler.
There is no guidance on power settings or cutting speed to cut various types and thicknesses of wood.  Serious experimentation is required.
 
This machine is finicky in that all mirrors have to be perfectly adjusted to make use of the power and they have to be kept clean.  It is big, and sometimes smelly.  It’s not a production machine and the bucket of cooling water will have to be watched.  Running at “high” power (no definition from anyone on this or on the max water temperature) will shorten the life of the laser bulb.  There is a focus issue and I believe it could cut with a thinner kerf.  I’m trying to talk with MM about this….
 
The nameplate, I couldn’t even begin to cut something that tiny on the scroll saw.  It’s now almost ready for carving.  I do need to tweak the drawing some more to get a bit better spacing.  The anchor stocks I’ve done,  would have taken maybe 30 minutes on the scroll saw.  Including drawing time, this took approximately 1 hour and no wasted/ruined pieces.  However, all 4 are exactly alike and the bolt holes are ready to be cleaned of char and the bolts installed.  No fiddling with the drill press, either.  I have about 8 other parts ready for cutting and will do them as I go.   The kerf size and charring are still an issue.
 
I’ll say it again, it’s not for everyone.  If you have the time and ability to Google and research and then  to fiddle with it and get it running correctly and then to keep it running, it might be ok for you.  The manuals are skimpy at best and a bit of creative Googling will need to be done to help sort things out.  There’s still settings in CorelLaser that I have no idea what they do.  There is an alternative to CorelLaser called LaserCut 5.3.  I haven’t tried it yet and the documentation on-line seems rather sparse from what I’ve seen.
 
Thicknesses of 3/16” and up are tricky to work with.  There’s no tables or inputs from MM on this and the web is all over the place on using these “hobby” cutters.  However, most folks who have reviewed similar machines are using basswood and thin woods.  Doll houses and RR accessories seem to be the major uses along with etching for various things like signs, pendants, etc.   I need to have a conversation with MM on the lens… I think it needs to be higher quality and damn it... there’s no excuse to have it installed upside down. 
 
Lastly, tech support.  I emailed them late on a Sunday night about some issues.  I'm still waiting for answer after 3 days… 
Since we’re talking tech support, it’s worthwhile to note that tech support hours are very limited… Monday through Friday, from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm, EDT.
 
I asked tech support before I ordered about using an extender cable and the answer was a simple: not recommended.  The unit comes with a 9 foot USB cable so I had to seriously rearrange my workshop to get it closer to the computer.   I’m testing a USB powered extender cable so I don’t have cabling running across the floor where it can be stepped on.   Jury is out on this.
 
The short answer for all this is: I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are tech savvy, not just with computers but also can tolerate a large learning curve.  The quality of the cuts could be a lot better.  Overall, it might better that if this tool is something you have to have then spend about double the cash and get a higher powered, non-China built laser cutter with some tech support.  The BossLaser that Chuck uses runs about $5000 and has the higher power to cut thicker woods and is, I believe, also suitable as a production machine.
 
I'll continue to test, adjust, fiddle, and tweak for now... 

I just read the chapter 26, the addition to the original volume IV which deals with making sails.  This chapter alone is worth the price of the book.  The details are incredible and are presented in a way that all of us can make realistic sails that are "to scale" in all ways.  The difficulty in making to scale sails for popular building scales has been discussed on this site numerous times and is one reason many builders, myself included, do not like making sails.  That has now changed, at least for me.   
 
Allan

I just read the chapter 26, the addition to the original volume IV which deals with making sails.  This chapter alone is worth the price of the book.  The details are incredible and are presented in a way that all of us can make realistic sails that are "to scale" in all ways.  The difficulty in making to scale sails for popular building scales has been discussed on this site numerous times and is one reason many builders, myself included, do not like making sails.  That has now changed, at least for me.   
 
Allan

Chuck,
Interesting idea, but my first thought was why would there be cracks between the planks?  They should be tight against each other.  Then I thought that if each planks has a slight chamfer on the edge, this will leave a gap for the aluminum.  The hard part though would be getting a perfectly even gap on every plank.
Do you have any photos you can share?  This idea is a bit intriguing.
Allan

Pasanax
It may be too late for your current model, but the edges of the planks need to be tapered so they fit properly.  Do a search of this forum and you will see it has been brought up in the past and there are sketches of what I described in words.   If it was me, I would remove the planks and start again, but that is just one opinion.  The caulking lines would only be the width of a piece of tissue or paper which is described in the planking tutorials, and the gaps you show are quite a bit more from what can be seen in your photo.
 
Allan

Pasanax
It may be too late for your current model, but the edges of the planks need to be tapered so they fit properly.  Do a search of this forum and you will see it has been brought up in the past and there are sketches of what I described in words.   If it was me, I would remove the planks and start again, but that is just one opinion.  The caulking lines would only be the width of a piece of tissue or paper which is described in the planking tutorials, and the gaps you show are quite a bit more from what can be seen in your photo.
 
Allan

Jerry,
 
 Before the introduction of train tackle, the running (out) tackles were unhooked and used as train tackle when needed.  The use of the tackle as train tackle depended on whether the guns were on the lee or windward side.  The hooks facilitated this action.  When separate train tackle came into use, it would be used as necessary to hold the leeward guns in place during reloading so the running tackle was no longer needed for this purpose.  At this point, the running tackle hooks were often moused so they could not be easily unhooked.  This means they were maintained in place when the guns were fired, not unhooked.
 
An interesting note is that the breech was not in a straight line, but dropped down to a ring on the carriage that was lower than the ring on the bulwark. 
This added a lot of friction to slow the recoil. 
 
The above is from Volume II of Caruana's English Sea Ordnance.
   
Allan

Jerry,
 
 Before the introduction of train tackle, the running (out) tackles were unhooked and used as train tackle when needed.  The use of the tackle as train tackle depended on whether the guns were on the lee or windward side.  The hooks facilitated this action.  When separate train tackle came into use, it would be used as necessary to hold the leeward guns in place during reloading so the running tackle was no longer needed for this purpose.  At this point, the running tackle hooks were often moused so they could not be easily unhooked.  This means they were maintained in place when the guns were fired, not unhooked.
 
An interesting note is that the breech was not in a straight line, but dropped down to a ring on the carriage that was lower than the ring on the bulwark. 
This added a lot of friction to slow the recoil. 
 
The above is from Volume II of Caruana's English Sea Ordnance.
   
Allan

Jerry,
 
 Before the introduction of train tackle, the running (out) tackles were unhooked and used as train tackle when needed.  The use of the tackle as train tackle depended on whether the guns were on the lee or windward side.  The hooks facilitated this action.  When separate train tackle came into use, it would be used as necessary to hold the leeward guns in place during reloading so the running tackle was no longer needed for this purpose.  At this point, the running tackle hooks were often moused so they could not be easily unhooked.  This means they were maintained in place when the guns were fired, not unhooked.
 
An interesting note is that the breech was not in a straight line, but dropped down to a ring on the carriage that was lower than the ring on the bulwark. 
This added a lot of friction to slow the recoil. 
 
The above is from Volume II of Caruana's English Sea Ordnance.
   
Allan

Jerry,
 
 Before the introduction of train tackle, the running (out) tackles were unhooked and used as train tackle when needed.  The use of the tackle as train tackle depended on whether the guns were on the lee or windward side.  The hooks facilitated this action.  When separate train tackle came into use, it would be used as necessary to hold the leeward guns in place during reloading so the running tackle was no longer needed for this purpose.  At this point, the running tackle hooks were often moused so they could not be easily unhooked.  This means they were maintained in place when the guns were fired, not unhooked.
 
An interesting note is that the breech was not in a straight line, but dropped down to a ring on the carriage that was lower than the ring on the bulwark. 
This added a lot of friction to slow the recoil. 
 
The above is from Volume II of Caruana's English Sea Ordnance.
   
Allan

100 years ago tomorrow afternoon,  local time, May 7, 1915 Lusitania was sunk by the German submarine U-20. 
The attached is Lusitania at the end of her record breaking crossing in 1907.  Dead Wake is a great book on her final days.
 
Allan

I cannot seem to be able to copy and paste the write up, but have posted some photos of a single piece molding process in the meantime. 
Allan

100 years ago tomorrow afternoon,  local time, May 7, 1915 Lusitania was sunk by the German submarine U-20. 
The attached is Lusitania at the end of her record breaking crossing in 1907.  Dead Wake is a great book on her final days.
 
Allan

100 years ago tomorrow afternoon,  local time, May 7, 1915 Lusitania was sunk by the German submarine U-20. 
The attached is Lusitania at the end of her record breaking crossing in 1907.  Dead Wake is a great book on her final days.
 
Allan

100 years ago tomorrow afternoon,  local time, May 7, 1915 Lusitania was sunk by the German submarine U-20. 
The attached is Lusitania at the end of her record breaking crossing in 1907.  Dead Wake is a great book on her final days.
 
Allan

The above answers your question but I must comment on the drawing you posted.  You are right, the quality is a bit off.  How can the ends of the line wrapped around the drum both drop from the same side of the drum?  Reminds me of some far out designs in Mad Magazine back in the day like the 2/3 tined fork in the attached picture.
Allan

Al,
 
If you are not happy with the filling and sanding after you try to fix one or more,  you can still remove them and throw them out and put on new ones.   Lots of opinions for you to consider, and they are all free    Don't forget, the slots will have slight angles to them to match the angle of the shrouds. 
 
Allan

Al,
 
A picture of what you have done so far would sure help here.  It sounds like you have already drilled the holes that are  suggested in the plans but you can fill them with some sanding dust and glue.  There should not be any holes other than for eye bolts in some cases. .  Normally the slots are only  as wide as two strands of the strop wire, 1.6mm in your case,  and the depth of the slot is equal to one diameter, that is 0.8mm.  With a slot that is 0.8 mm deep, you can more easily cut this with a chisel or sharp blade rather than a saw.  
   
Allan

Al,
 
A picture of what you have done so far would sure help here.  It sounds like you have already drilled the holes that are  suggested in the plans but you can fill them with some sanding dust and glue.  There should not be any holes other than for eye bolts in some cases. .  Normally the slots are only  as wide as two strands of the strop wire, 1.6mm in your case,  and the depth of the slot is equal to one diameter, that is 0.8mm.  With a slot that is 0.8 mm deep, you can more easily cut this with a chisel or sharp blade rather than a saw.  
   
Allan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail
 
In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.
 

 
This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.
 

 
In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.
 

 
The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.
 

 
The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.
 
The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.
 

 
The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.
 
The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 
 

 
After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 
 

 
The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 
 

 
I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.
 
Ed

Kevin
 
It is probably a bit late, but I have a pretty nice piece of keel from one of the skipjacks that was rebuilt at St. Michaels about 10 years ago or so.  If you or anyone else interested would like a chunk to cut up for pieces of a future "Jack"  model, PM me.  
 
Allan

The State Library of NSW has posted on-line the Phillip Parker King - album of drawings and engravings, 1802-1902.  Each image can be viewed in very large detail (see my link on the previous page for one example.
 
The description and image thumbnails can be found here: http://www.acmssearch.sl.nsw.gov.au/search/itemDetailPaged.cgi?itemID=442570
A very detailed sketch is here http://www.acmssearch.sl.nsw.gov.au/search/itemLargeCopyright.cgi?itemID=921633&size=full&album=1&collection=823393&parent=442570(higher resolution image of one shown in the first post by Rick)

Kevin
 
It is probably a bit late, but I have a pretty nice piece of keel from one of the skipjacks that was rebuilt at St. Michaels about 10 years ago or so.  If you or anyone else interested would like a chunk to cut up for pieces of a future "Jack"  model, PM me.  
 
Allan

Jeers
 
With the arrival of the rigging thread I was waiting on I could now finish off the Jeers on the fore and main masts.
 
These start with a double block on one side. It reaves through the large jeer block under the Top on one side, through the block in the centre of the yard, back up through the other block under the top, and finishes with another double block :
 

 
The tackle of the jeer falls. This is the main mast :
 

 
And the fore mast :
 

 
The falls of the tackles go through the sheaves in the Jeer Bitts and belay around the Bitt Rail :
 

 
 Danny

David
If you run into any problems with the galleries get David Antscherl's book on the Comet.    It includes a 17 page chapter on building the quarter galleries that alone is worth the price of the book. 
 
Allan