allanyed
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allanyed got a reaction from druxey in Anchor Buoys-Looking for details of ones used in 1700's
Keith,
In addition the the sources Druxey gives, Pages 129 and 130 in James Lees' Masting and Rigging has drawings and a detailed text description of the buoy and rigging.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from ranikola in Thoughts on standing after running rigging
Mike,
When at all possible, work from the inside out and then the spars and running rigging. If you do not already have any, consider getting a rigging book or two. Volume 4 of TFFM by David Antscherl, James Lees Masting and Rigging are VERY good. The former explains how-to rig a sixth rate, but much of the information will serve you well for any vessel. The latter covers a range of vessel sizes from 1625 to 1860 in such a way that you can calculate mast, spar and rigging sizes. It is not so much a "how to" book but gives a wealth of information including where each piece of rigging starts and ends. It is laid out in pretty much the order you would do the rigging. There are a few others that many of the folks here like and can recommend. These two happen to be my personal favorites.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from WackoWolf in did wales ever taper at the bow?
Hi Hamilton
When you say a fair run of the planks, what do you mean? I took it that you were talking about the width of the wales, not the thickness. The thickness did taper in order to seat into the rabbet as Druxey points out, but the width is another matter. The other planks taper in width as they approached the bow, so it is a fair question to ask if the wales also taper in width.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from augie in did wales ever taper at the bow?
Hi Hamilton
When you say a fair run of the planks, what do you mean? I took it that you were talking about the width of the wales, not the thickness. The thickness did taper in order to seat into the rabbet as Druxey points out, but the width is another matter. The other planks taper in width as they approached the bow, so it is a fair question to ask if the wales also taper in width.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Bill Hime in Best Glue for Metal to Wood?
Did you consider not gluing them? Drill very small holes and pin them to the hull with tiny brass nails or brad. Paint over the "bolt" heads to match the flags as close as you can. OR drill and pin with shoirt pieces of very small diameter brass rod then put a dot of epoxy.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from WackoWolf in Guns for HMS Victory 1:48 scale
Naci
Three sources are The Art of Ship Modeling, TFFM Vol. 2 and Euryalus 1803, Vol 2. Each is a bit different than the other, but all three work.
My preference of course is the last, because it uses a single piece mold, not two part split mold, thus not parting line down the middle of the barrel.
I am sure there are other viable sources that other members will hopefully post for you.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from hornet in ratlines,tarred or not?
I thought to look at some contemporary models for an answer, but I am more confused. They all show natural ratlines, but the standing rigging is natural except on the Prince Frederick.
The top photo is a 60 of 1705, the second is a 36 of 1780, the third is the Portland 1693 and the last is the Prince Frederick 1714
Not also that the lanyards for the deadeyes are natural in each case as well.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from clipper in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Danny
While the very very high quality of your work is obvious, your step by step series of photos is terrific and a great help to anyone that has not yet put together a bow from scratch. Making and fitting these parts is truly a challenge, but you have shown in a very clear way that it is a matter of patience more than anything else.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from dafi in ratlines,tarred or not?
I thought to look at some contemporary models for an answer, but I am more confused. They all show natural ratlines, but the standing rigging is natural except on the Prince Frederick.
The top photo is a 60 of 1705, the second is a 36 of 1780, the third is the Portland 1693 and the last is the Prince Frederick 1714
Not also that the lanyards for the deadeyes are natural in each case as well.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from dgbot in plank length
Andy
You may find it beneficial to join the Wasa group, of which Fred Hocker is an active member and Clayton Johnson is the administrator. The deck planking thickness is different on each deck. Not only does the length of each plank vary, the widths vary as well. There are plans of the deck planking that may help.
Fred's book on the Wasa may be of interest as well.
http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Mike Dowling in Thoughts on standing after running rigging
Mike,
When at all possible, work from the inside out and then the spars and running rigging. If you do not already have any, consider getting a rigging book or two. Volume 4 of TFFM by David Antscherl, James Lees Masting and Rigging are VERY good. The former explains how-to rig a sixth rate, but much of the information will serve you well for any vessel. The latter covers a range of vessel sizes from 1625 to 1860 in such a way that you can calculate mast, spar and rigging sizes. It is not so much a "how to" book but gives a wealth of information including where each piece of rigging starts and ends. It is laid out in pretty much the order you would do the rigging. There are a few others that many of the folks here like and can recommend. These two happen to be my personal favorites.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from trippwj in New Scantling book announced by Seawatch books
Rob,
I am very happy that you like the book, I appreciate you taking time to post that. As to Q&A, I am always in the learning mode as well.
I must admit I have no sure answer for you. The 1719 Establishment had a line that this dimension was the same bigness as the keel amidships. I merely copied the same dimensions from the appropriate line of dimensions. Unfortunately, as I was transcribing, I did not look at what many items actually are, but now I want to know as well. I have attached what MAY be the answer. I hope some of the more learned members kick in their two cents be my answer right or wrong, more likely the latter.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Trussben in New Scantling book announced by Seawatch books
Wayne,
You like the book more than I do!!
I cannot thank you enough for the review, you absolutely made my day, week, month, more.....
If it helps the modeling community one tenth as much as you indicate it might I will be a happy man.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from NMBROOK in Plank caulking using tissue paper tutorial by Nigel Brook.
Keith,
I am sure Nigel will answer you, but from my experience, the glue holds the planks upright, no problem. If they are close together they will wind up glued together. That is my experience anyway.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from NMBROOK in Plank caulking using tissue paper tutorial by Nigel Brook.
Very nice write up Nigel. The explanation of slicing away the planks from the tissue sheet while the glue is semi cured should be heeded. Too soon will see some tearing but too late is as described previously, possible but difficult.
For those in the states, I bought a pack of black tissue at Michael's some years ago and I think they sill carry it.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from WackoWolf in plank length
Andy
You may find it beneficial to join the Wasa group, of which Fred Hocker is an active member and Clayton Johnson is the administrator. The deck planking thickness is different on each deck. Not only does the length of each plank vary, the widths vary as well. There are plans of the deck planking that may help.
Fred's book on the Wasa may be of interest as well.
http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Mike Dowling in When to fit sails?
Mike,
In my opinion, the time to add sails is never. Unless they are furled, and/or your model is at least 1:48 or larger they are very difficult to make to scale and rig so they hang naturally. I have done sails on a number of schooner models that are 1/4" scale only because the client always requires it but I use at least 800 thread count linen or better, 1200 TC if I can find it at a discount price. I will probably try silk span on the next one.
If you feel you must include sails, the thinnest you can probably readily find is silkspan. It comes in three grades, starting from the lightest, 00, 000, and SGM. I believe all the new stuff is polyspan. I also suggest you get a copy of David Antscherl's TFFM Volume 4 to get a great source of information on rigging. If you want to go with silkspan Google K&S White Aero Silk Covering for information and sources.
Good luck
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from JerseyCity Frankie in Too much rope
Frank,
Never too old to learn I say. I had never heard of the ballentine before, but once I saw it, I thought, ah, yes, just like the beer symbol!
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from hornet in water way?
JHL
Please let us know your name, it is much nice than addressing you with nothing or with three letters
The attached is from the original cross section of Euryalus (1803) when she lay in ordinary in 1815 going through a refit.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Ben
Are you going to add all the ports as you make and install the frames? I know there are those that do this and do it well. Heck, I have a hard time making them lie in the correct and fair line when marking and cutting them in a finished framed hull. Cutting the notches in the frames for the ledges and lintels is far easier when doing so off the model, but alignment, for me at least, is not at all likely.
Overall though, it is coming along very well. I wish the "net" had been around when I did my first few scratch builts and could get the mentoring available at MSW.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Stowing the anchors
Daniel,
You can get a copy of Darcy Lever's The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor on Amazon for about $10-$15 and it explains a lot. The following is from Lees book on rigging that had this picture from TYSOSA.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from dafi in Stowing the anchors
Daniel,
You can get a copy of Darcy Lever's The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor on Amazon for about $10-$15 and it explains a lot. The following is from Lees book on rigging that had this picture from TYSOSA.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Trussben in New Scantling book announced by Seawatch books
I received an email that made some very nice comments and noted that I gave credit in the book to several people whose help was critical in getting the book as close to right as possible. I would like to give them the credit due them here as well. They all provided information that was of immense help. David Antscherl, Gary Bishop, Richard Endsor, and Wayne Kempson all had a strong hand in helping me get it done for which I am immensely grateful.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Jay 1 in New Scantling book announced by Seawatch books
I received an email that made some very nice comments and noted that I gave credit in the book to several people whose help was critical in getting the book as close to right as possible. I would like to give them the credit due them here as well. They all provided information that was of immense help. David Antscherl, Gary Bishop, Richard Endsor, and Wayne Kempson all had a strong hand in helping me get it done for which I am immensely grateful.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in New Scantling book announced by Seawatch books
I received an email that made some very nice comments and noted that I gave credit in the book to several people whose help was critical in getting the book as close to right as possible. I would like to give them the credit due them here as well. They all provided information that was of immense help. David Antscherl, Gary Bishop, Richard Endsor, and Wayne Kempson all had a strong hand in helping me get it done for which I am immensely grateful.
Allan
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