pompey2

Hi Terry
 
I visited the Tincomalee a couple of years ago, I knew her as a hulk in Portsmouth Harbour when I was a lad.
The museum that houses her and the ship itself are well worth a visit, I was very impressed.
I captured a bunch of photos and posted them on the site under NRG news, here is a link if anyone is interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6335-hms-trincomalee/
 
Nick

Lovely work Nick. I'm learning all sorts of tricks here. I'm sorry that I hadn't cottoned on to this build until now. I hope there is space for me to squeeze in another chair.
 
Best, ian

I have now painted the gun port linings with a bunch of thinned coats of red ochre.
And now I've started the hull planking proper.
Another batten put in place to guide the top of the first strake which is the topmost wale strake.
Then the first plank.
I am using some plank clamps I made up.
They are two parts with a notch cut out to push the plank on and up.
One part has a half round at the back to provide a pivot and a normal spring clamp keeps it in place.
The inner faces have sandpaper glued on to give some friction.

For some of the more gentle curves I am using a flexible curve to form the wet plank.

And for the tighter curves, especially when I want to keep them consistent I made a jig.
This one is for the bow curve.

Continuing with the first strake.

Then I tackled the problem of planks needing a partial twist along their length, generally for the stern.
So after a lot of thinking time and rummaging through various boxes in the garage I came up with this.
 A base with a line of holes to accommodate different lengths.
The a piece of plastic pipe placed in an old armour cable cleat, that allows the tube to be rotated and then fixed.
I turned a few bits of dowel to be a snug fit into the pipe and glued them in place.
Then cut a half round out of the protruding pieces of dowel.
This setup now allows me to clamp a plank at one end onto a dowel flat.
Then clamp the other end to the flat of a rotated dowel. Planks soaked, then clamped overnight.

After drying overnight I get a twisted plank.

I also made up another clamp which was the same except it has a slot right through the centre.

That allows a longer plank to have a twist starting part way down.


 
That bring me pretty much up to date now, so thanks for calling in.
 
Nick
 

Just been entertaining myself with catching up on your log Ian.
Have to say it's really lovely work.
Looking forward to seeing it progress.
 
Nick

Hi Terry
 
I visited the Tincomalee a couple of years ago, I knew her as a hulk in Portsmouth Harbour when I was a lad.
The museum that houses her and the ship itself are well worth a visit, I was very impressed.
I captured a bunch of photos and posted them on the site under NRG news, here is a link if anyone is interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6335-hms-trincomalee/
 
Nick

Got the two inserts in by doing this.
 
 

 

Nick: Patchy is a great word! Thanks for the comment re "the real Victory". The beakhead did work out okay. I took your suggestion and have been working on placing the brass rails to the hull. I can't imagine doing it later on in the build. One thing I found is that brass along with super glue on bare wood is very hard to move after it sits for even a few minutes. Pulls a layer of wood off with it. LOL... It was a shock. Thank goodness I only had a mm or so to move it. (messed up the angle between gun ports on one piece.
 
My daytime and most evenings other project is going strong for another six weeks but we just got hit with some timelines that may mean the second phase will start right away versus a few months. Ian will understand.. Yep, patchy!
 
Must admit, I'm a bit frustrated by my pace, but my other activities are just too much at this time. And to add to it, we've had 12.5 feet of snow (cumulative this season so far) at the mountains I ride so you can imagine it's pull... I don't need a to wake me up to drive there.
 
But, this week has been pretty good and took three evenings. A whole three evenings to plug away. For me "an evening" is time after 9:00 or 10:00 p.m. LOL (I just realized, it's like when the kid was growing up... Yikes!!)
 
Took the tarps off. And did some painting and fix-up. (A diversion more than anything) Was working in the galleries and sorting out the painting and alignment of the quarter gallery 2nd and 4th skin false baluster patterns.
Decided to scan the brass sheet 1:1. After making a pdf (in this case) I printed the sheet. And I cut the pieces out that I want to align and there you go! Lined up using the paper parts. Might prove to be useful elsewhere.
 
In review:
1. Scanned sheet with the scanner 1:1 - created a pdf (the brass is still inside the plastic bag)

 
2. Printed the sheet and cut out the "parts"

 
3.taped in place so I could figure out the colour patterns

 
4. Took this picture before the new tarps went up. (please excuse the green background - didn't pull across all the way -)

 
 

Her Wikipedia page gives her fate as being sunk in Jamaica Bay Long Island. This is on the Atlantic side of Long Island and actually within the Burrough of Queens New York City, not in Long Island Sound. Only nine miles away from where I sit in Jersey City! This proximity makes me want to build her too since it's my home waters and also a place I love, Jamaica Bay is a tidal inlet between Coney Island and Rockaway Beach. Everyone will remember the Ramones song Rockaway Beach! I'm very curious to know now just what the hell she was doing in those very shallow waters. For context, if you motored out of New York harbor and went out to sea under the Varanzano Bridge, then hugged the shore on your left side, heading Easterly, you pass first Coney Island then the mouth of Jamaica Bay, the Rockaway Inlet.

I'll play Devil's Advocate here.. I've found it's easier for me to hold off on the ratlines as long as possible as many times it's easier to connect up the running rigging by reaching with my tools through the shrouds.  Ratlines would prevent that.
 
That being said.... whatever way you think will work best for you is the way to go.  

I would certainly suggest ratlines first.
There will be a lot of reaching in and around shrouds and yards are easy things to catch and tear off.
 
 
Nick

I would certainly suggest ratlines first.
There will be a lot of reaching in and around shrouds and yards are easy things to catch and tear off.
 
 
Nick

I think it is a little too pink, but actually not that far away.
Also stay away from the gloss, it should be flat matt really.
 
Nick

I would certainly suggest ratlines first.
There will be a lot of reaching in and around shrouds and yards are easy things to catch and tear off.
 
 
Nick

I would certainly suggest ratlines first.
There will be a lot of reaching in and around shrouds and yards are easy things to catch and tear off.
 
 
Nick

I would certainly suggest ratlines first.
There will be a lot of reaching in and around shrouds and yards are easy things to catch and tear off.
 
 
Nick

I am a retired Horseshoer/ Blacksmith and finally got tired of using my 100 LB. anvil to make my small metal parts. 
 
I was at a flea market and picked up an old iron that they used before electricity. It looked perfect to use as a mini anvil to help make my small metal parts. I picked it up for $5.
 
I even constructed a small wooden box for it and it has worked quite well. You can even take it out of the box and use it as a weight when you glue to parts together. 
 

 

 
 

 
Now all I need is a little smaller hammer.
 

This is only correct for people who don't calibrate their monitor. Think about it, every company that has a zillion artists would be up a creek without a paddle if there was no way to get consistency of output on multiple monitor types and models.
 
Since I've also been a long-time artist, at various times professional, I always calibrate my monitors. The Datacolor Spyder series monitor calibration tools has been the most popular for years. It has extremely sensitive light/frequency detectors and you place it in the center of your monitor with the lights in the room darkened, and it sends a large number of color values to the screen and records the screen's actual output. It then creates a color correction profile that is saved and loaded every time you start your machine, you can see it happen as all the color on screen will suddenly shift a bit on startup.
 
Not sure if you or anyone wants to go to those lengths, but it is certainly possible to work as a distributed group and still all see identical images on screen.

Some pics I found online over the years showing Trin out of her dock, in drydock, and other a-typical angles.
 
I never did get why they set her up with the yards in the set positions.


 





 

Greetings all
Yes it's well worth a visit, I have been to see it three times in the past few months and I live a ten minute walk from it. There is also a small museum on the site relating to the history of Hartlepool, and the restored PPS Wingfield Castle Paddle Steamer. I am not sure if it is used as a cafe, but it a real mess and looks like it's been neglected. I remember the Trincomalee arriving in Hartlepool in late 1980, and it was called the HMS Foudroyant but as most of you will know it had a name change to the Trincomalee. if you don't want to drive here, the best bet is Kings Cross direct to Hartlepool, no changes on the grand central train. Only three hours. I have lots of photos of the ship including below deck if you want me to post any, but I know lots have been posted before. If you come don't mention the hanging of the monkey, as we still have some rope left over. I am off now, I am going to Greenwich on Saturday for a look around the Cutty Sark and the National Maritime museum. My sons house is a 30 minutes DLR run from Greenwich. I am spoilt. If you need any info about the trinc or visiting just give me a bell. Just noticed POMPEY 2 has posted about 1000 dam photos of it !!!!!! It's a waste of time me posting any LOL . Cheers DAVID

Hi Terry
 
I visited the Tincomalee a couple of years ago, I knew her as a hulk in Portsmouth Harbour when I was a lad.
The museum that houses her and the ship itself are well worth a visit, I was very impressed.
I captured a bunch of photos and posted them on the site under NRG news, here is a link if anyone is interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6335-hms-trincomalee/
 
Nick

I think it is a little too pink, but actually not that far away.
Also stay away from the gloss, it should be flat matt really.
 
Nick

Hi Terry
 
I visited the Tincomalee a couple of years ago, I knew her as a hulk in Portsmouth Harbour when I was a lad.
The museum that houses her and the ship itself are well worth a visit, I was very impressed.
I captured a bunch of photos and posted them on the site under NRG news, here is a link if anyone is interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6335-hms-trincomalee/
 
Nick

Hi Terry
 
I visited the Tincomalee a couple of years ago, I knew her as a hulk in Portsmouth Harbour when I was a lad.
The museum that houses her and the ship itself are well worth a visit, I was very impressed.
I captured a bunch of photos and posted them on the site under NRG news, here is a link if anyone is interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6335-hms-trincomalee/
 
Nick

Hi Terry
 
I visited the Tincomalee a couple of years ago, I knew her as a hulk in Portsmouth Harbour when I was a lad.
The museum that houses her and the ship itself are well worth a visit, I was very impressed.
I captured a bunch of photos and posted them on the site under NRG news, here is a link if anyone is interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6335-hms-trincomalee/
 
Nick

What a great idea.
I use a strip of rigid clear plastic as a spacer and guide.
But that does not stop what you call the hourglass effect which is always a problem.
The twin strips and sandpaper will sort that out a treat.
So I will be stealing this if you don't mind.
Nice one!!!