rtropp

Ed, I appreciate all your help. I realized that I do not know enough about operations involved in using the tap and die. I thought (erroneously) that I could just find brass rod that was the correct size to use. (like if I bought a 1/4 inch die, I could just use a 1/4 inch brass rod.) I think I now understand this better and will try the file method you described. But, especially if my retirement is interrupted by this next contract, I will be considering a small metal lathe. I am just having too much fun with all this. Once I have my skills honed some more, and create the tools I will need, I should be ready to buy wood to begin my build of the Naiad. I was going to start the tap and die thread to stop clogging up your thread with this kind of detail. I ended am being called to meetings so will have to wait for that. Again, much thanks for your time and patience. Richard

Ed, Hope its ok to take up space here with some more tap and die talk. In your book you indicate using a 5/32 brass rod with the flexible clamps that use the 4-40 tap and die. Does this mean I can use the 5/32 without having to resize its diameter? For the 6-32, I can find brass rods with screw threads but if I wanted to create my own, what size brass rod would I buy? Again, I am looking not have to size the diameter but be able to use readily available stock... do not have a metal lathe. Or, do I have the whole thing wrong Thanks for the help. Richard.

I have the db250. I saw it on EBay and got it for a really good price which made it and easy choice for something to learn on. It has accomplished all I have needed so far for turned wood items. (note: I have not completed my build so cannot say I won't encounter something in the future.) It works smoothly and fits the small space that I had for it and is fun. Recently, I have begun to work on metal fittings. I got the bug to try a mill and this time, since I bought it new, made sure I got a mill that worked metal as well as wood. After using it for both wood and metal parts, I am starting to miss the ability to try out metal turning for things like brass cannon or fabricating other metal fittings and jig parts. So, in the end, I may end up getting a miniature metal lathe which would be good for both wood and metal. But that is a big if. If I do trade up, I personally like the Sherline brand. They seem to maintain a larger assortment of accessories and these are important in metal work. I am not sure if the Proxxon is industry standard. Their Center (which holds the work) is described as MT1 "short" and I am not sure if the "short" means non-standard. Others on this site would be more knowledgeable about that. I also appreciate Sherline's site which has extensive information as well as video tutorials, which would be good for someone new. Now, with all that said, the db250 is doing the wood work for which I originally bought it, and doing it well. If I did not have the bug for milling metal I would not consider changing it for something else. The difference in cost is too great if I were not going to work metal. That goes for accessories and much as the machine itself. And, I think that the wood machine is a lot simpler to learn. Richard

Great tips, Mark, do you think you could post a photo of your set up with fences and brass splitter. Sounds like something I would like to replicate. Dan, is the strip of wood CA'd to the fence at the same height as the fence? Do you think it could be taller? I guess the first thing is to wax the table. I picked up some "Kit" brand carnauba car wax for that. wondered if there was anything special I should consider before using it. Also, I took some pictures as I was unpacking, not sure if I should post them here or in a fresh topic. Thanks Richard

Does a featherboard need to be next to the blade as shown in the Micromark ad or can it be a little behind it. I am thinking that when ripping 1/16" wide stock for planks, there would not be much room between the blade and the fence. Richard

Mahuna, I emailed them and they said they could not supply those sizes. Richard

My saw arrived yesterday evening. I think my first project will be to build a sled and a couple of push sticks. I appreciate the design information Richard.

Floyd, Am curious, How long do you think it will be before you start your Ajax. I am working on the Syren and it is keeping me pretty busy. And I am not sure that, at this point in my learning, multitasking to another model would be a good idea. I was thinking that depending on how focused I need to be for the rigging, I might start soon after I have the deck furniture completed. Given my progress, that it still a good few months off. Richard

QA, I am beginning to understand the differences. For future, I will first find which material is available locally, then purchase the tools to meet their standards. Luckily 4mm is easy to find and I have a place that will send 6mm. But, as I learn more about the whole tap and die process, I will be able to formulate some best practices for my area. Mark, My lathe is wood but I have a brand new mill just waiting to be used. I can understand the use of the file, and may have to go that route. I am still new enough to mills that I am not sure if one can be used like a vertical lathe. Not sure what accessories, if any are available, might be needed to accomplish that. If it were possible it might pay off if I can also turn brass cannon on a mill. Just not sure if it can be done and would be a good idea to try. I am the kind that learns by doing some "useful" project. So I am about to embark on that journey. My two initial projects are a sled and push sticks for my table saw, and clamps using the tap and dies as well as table and jig saws. QA If you can send the plans I would appreciate it and will PM you my email address. Thanks to all richard

Since this is new to me, I decided to order from a regular supplier rather than tough it out online or with E-Bay. I found an online retailer, Victor Machinery in Brooklyn, That seemed to have a large, varied inventory and called in to price the order. I wanted to describe my intended use to make sure I got it right. I priced the 6-32 tap and die, as well as LH and RH taps and dies for the 4-40. I also priced the tap and die handles that would be required. Without mentioning manufacturers (I would not know anyway) the price came out to about $43 for the hardware and $12 for shipping. Given how much clamps cost and how often I need to replace them, and their use for other jigs, I think it would be a good investment for me. Richard

QA, I am getting confused with some of the nomenclature. Is M4 similar to 4-40? Luckily, I have been able to obtain the 4mm brass as well as the set of 4-40 tap and die, left and right, which are mentioned in Ed T's book. So I am good to go with those... I think. I guess I will find out for sure when they get here. I agree will also use the 4 mm which should be enough to do the clamps shown in the appendix. I think before I buy an additional taps or dies, I will first check to see what brass rod is most easily available. Seems like the 1.4 inch imperial and the 4mm metric are what I have seen most either on Ebay or at suppliers. Richard

Frank, I contacted them and they cannot supply 4mm or 6mm brass rod. I found 4mm on Amazon and ordered it but cannot for the life of me find 6mm. I can find 1/4 but that is 6.35mm and I do not know if that would work with 6mm die. If I continue not finding 6mm, and cannot use larger rod like the 1/4", I guess I will have to write off the tap and die I have for that size and buy a set to fit 1/4 inch which seems more readily available as stock. It's funny because I can obtain 6-32 threaded brass, and they must be getting the stock from somewhere :-) Oh well, it's all a learning experience. Richard.

I have read the comments with interest. So much depends on the style of the builder, kit or scratch, etc. I like tools, I admit it, I proclaim it, I shout it from the roof tops. Ok, maybe I don't shout it from the roof tops but as my build progresses I have bought both powered and manual tools to add to those I use in wood sculpting. Heck, learning how to use them is half the fun and each is beginning to contribute to my build. I even used the mini mill which pretty much was an impulse buy. (I am so glad I set aside a hobby fund before I retired.) But, I wonder at the stories of builders who did not have access to much at all in the way of tools and built their models with only a knife, or stories of prisoners forming found objects as tools and using bone for stock. Much of their work is really good. So, I sometimes wonder, what could I accomplish with a folding knife and perhaps one file. Probably not going to happen, but still, I wonder what if... Richard

Salvatore, Thanks for the response and especially the pictures. I agree with your comment about their look. Part of attraction to this hobby is that I really love the way wood looks. I think that is why I got involved in wood sculpting years ago. something about the look and feel of finely finished wood. I also looked at the other screw down clamp you show in your photos. They would also answer a need I have. Do they use wood screws that are driven into the platform each time they are used or did you drill holes in the platform and attach the clamp with a nut on the bottom of the work platform? I need to make a few of those in different sizes. Thanks, Richard

Does anyone know of a decent mail order site that would sell 4mm and 6 mm brass in the U.S.? I have found only 4mm on Amazon but cannot find 6mm in my searches. The hits I am getting on Google mostly have theirs in fractions of inches which do not match up the MM equivalents. I would like to find a place that has some decent prices for brass, and other rod. Amazon can be pricey. Thanks, Richard

Singidunum, thanks for the pictures. I wanted to see that ledge that blocks the blade after the cut. Looks like a simple way to add safety. My saw was delayed by our recent weather. Atlanta was locked in. But, I expect it to arrive today or tomorrow. Boy am I looking forward to that. Thanks, Richard

Thanks Sam,

I have been looking through Ed Tosti's book on building the Naiad. In the appendix he describes some clamps that I intend to make. They use taps and dies to make the threaded posts. For one set of clamps you need Left Hand and Right Hand threads. On die sets, or many individual dies there is not LH or RH given. do the dies default to one kind or the other if not specifically called out... or am I just missing something? Similarly, for taps, are there LH and RH and if so what might they be if not specifically labeled. Finally, what would be the best diameter brass rod, and the appropriate drill sizes to create 6-32 and 4-40 threaded posts. I have found a number of charts online but they can be confusing to a neophyte and was hoping to start off with the right tools and parts. Thanks, Richard

Ed. I was looking at the second, more complex, clamp in your first book and thought that would be a good little side project. Problem is I am not all that familiar with taps and dies. Do both taps and dies come in LH and RH? Most tap and die sets do not indicate LH or RH, so is there one way they come by default? Do you suggest brass or stainless for the stud? Have to tell you, even though my start of a build is way off, there is so much in your book that helps right now. I have just ordered the dark pigment to test out mixing with glue to simulate caulking. I want to see what impact all that handling has on its ability to stay moist in the bottle and not dry out too quickly. Thanks, Richard

Just a quick note: Rockler ships orders and that has to be cheaper than driving. I just received a test order of a few different types of planking (all hardwoods, not birch ply). While the pieces were all flat and true, one piece had a small hole in it. I called and they sent a replacement with no fuss, no bother, no charge. Richard.

Tim, thanks for the link GRSJAX, If exterior house paint works, that would be the least expensive way to go. Richard

Singidunum, Thanks for the video. by any chance do you have pictures of the actual slide and push sticks you made for the Proxxon? Mij, I had not thought of a foot switch for the saw, lathe or mill. I will be standing and could not see myself balancing on one foot with the other perched over the switch. Hmmm.. I have been thinking of the switch as kill switch, i.e., taking your foot off would stop the machine. Is it a "click" type that turns on and off by depressing rather than keeping it on with constant pressure? If so, what model are you using. By the way folks, all your contributions have been extremely helpful. I should be receiving my Byrnes Saw in the next few days and will review all of this before starting. Richard

I use the Dremel with a flex shaft attachment. I position the Dremel itself overhead so the shaft hangs pretty much straight down with enough slack to move around my worktable. I seem to remember that ModelExpo or / or Micromark sold a battery device but do not know how well they held up. There are a number of flex shaft type devices, some very light weight for both shaft and device, (Foredom comes to mind) but they can be expensive (a few hundred dollars) where the Dremel flex shaft is a fairly inexpensive accessory ($30 or so). If you do go the route of any of the flex shaft devices I recommend investing a few more dollars in a tall tool holder with a clamp. These can be had for around $10 or so. Richard

Thanks Brian, I could not find anything on a site search so I sent them an email request. Richard

Thank you all for the advice, it will help greatly. Jaeger, I appreciate the detail and will put it to good use. Duffer, I will be drying these as tree trunks. They are almost a foot and half thick and two to three feet long. My primary intention for these is to use a blocks for sculpting large figures. (another hobby of mine.) I thought, since I now have almost completed my collection of bench tools that I would try them for the ship building but understand they might not be suitable. If a small test sample shows that then I will not cut it up. Getting large pieces for sculpting can be very difficult so I would keep them intact. Thanks, Richard