Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Palm Gouges
Jeff,
The size of the chisel is determined by the job it is being used for.
Dockyard micro chisels are a size for decorative carvings - usually 17 century and first half of the 18th century.
For larger jobs there are FlesCut and UL Ramelson.
FlexCut are not difficult to find.
Mountain Woodcarvers sells both Dockyard and Ramelson.
This company is having a sale on factory seconds from Dockyard.
UL Ramelson has a web site and individual chisels are available there.
It is a pain to wait and frustrating not to have what you need , when you need it. The economical way would to get to a task, guess the size and shape of chisel needed and buy just those. This advice that I cannot practice myself,
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Palm Gouges
Jeff,
The size of the chisel is determined by the job it is being used for.
Dockyard micro chisels are a size for decorative carvings - usually 17 century and first half of the 18th century.
For larger jobs there are FlesCut and UL Ramelson.
FlexCut are not difficult to find.
Mountain Woodcarvers sells both Dockyard and Ramelson.
This company is having a sale on factory seconds from Dockyard.
UL Ramelson has a web site and individual chisels are available there.
It is a pain to wait and frustrating not to have what you need , when you need it. The economical way would to get to a task, guess the size and shape of chisel needed and buy just those. This advice that I cannot practice myself,
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Jaager got a reaction from rock harris in I’m a newbie, other newbies listen to me!
Plastic model assembly is not really all that much help in preparation for the skills and tools used for building a wooden hull.
A major advantage of a wood based model for a plastic one is that it is much easier to backup and redo - often with much better quality wood - if you so choose. The plans that come with the kit should have the patterns for the parts that have been poorly assembled. Obtain plywood stock, It can be AA quality and thicker than the kit supplied. Scan the patterns - double check for any scanner distortion and adjust and cement to the new plywood, cut the replacement parts out and assemble using your hard learned experience. Check the vendors here, planking stock is available. The species will be much more scale appropriate.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in I’m a newbie, other newbies listen to me!
Plastic model assembly is not really all that much help in preparation for the skills and tools used for building a wooden hull.
A major advantage of a wood based model for a plastic one is that it is much easier to backup and redo - often with much better quality wood - if you so choose. The plans that come with the kit should have the patterns for the parts that have been poorly assembled. Obtain plywood stock, It can be AA quality and thicker than the kit supplied. Scan the patterns - double check for any scanner distortion and adjust and cement to the new plywood, cut the replacement parts out and assemble using your hard learned experience. Check the vendors here, planking stock is available. The species will be much more scale appropriate.
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Jaager got a reaction from Mark P in Ships of the early 17th century: pictures
Willem van de Velde the elder has some work from before 1650.
The Galleon by Peter Kirsch may have a few illustrations that are after 1600.
There is a major spike in interest and available material from 1588 and another from around 1660 on. What was in between, and it was a period of major transition , seems to be lost to the fog of time.
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Jaager got a reaction from Ryland Craze in I’m a newbie, other newbies listen to me!
Plastic model assembly is not really all that much help in preparation for the skills and tools used for building a wooden hull.
A major advantage of a wood based model for a plastic one is that it is much easier to backup and redo - often with much better quality wood - if you so choose. The plans that come with the kit should have the patterns for the parts that have been poorly assembled. Obtain plywood stock, It can be AA quality and thicker than the kit supplied. Scan the patterns - double check for any scanner distortion and adjust and cement to the new plywood, cut the replacement parts out and assemble using your hard learned experience. Check the vendors here, planking stock is available. The species will be much more scale appropriate.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in I’m a newbie, other newbies listen to me!
Plastic model assembly is not really all that much help in preparation for the skills and tools used for building a wooden hull.
A major advantage of a wood based model for a plastic one is that it is much easier to backup and redo - often with much better quality wood - if you so choose. The plans that come with the kit should have the patterns for the parts that have been poorly assembled. Obtain plywood stock, It can be AA quality and thicker than the kit supplied. Scan the patterns - double check for any scanner distortion and adjust and cement to the new plywood, cut the replacement parts out and assemble using your hard learned experience. Check the vendors here, planking stock is available. The species will be much more scale appropriate.
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Jaager got a reaction from ERS Rich in Painting Problems
Sand off the paint that is not right. Buy a can of shellac (clear or garnet) and one of shellac thinner (likely ethanol). Make a mixture of thinner and shellac 1:1. Use a piece of an old T-shirt to pad it on - just wet no build up. When dry, dress it with a Scotch Brite pad and tack rag it. Give a thought to doing another coat of full strength shellac. A better base for follow-on paint would be difficult to find. It dries fairly quickly and is not messy.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Ladder steps
There is a strict code for houses. The width of the tread, the height of the tread - there is a strict formula. We have a learned expectation and it is almost instinctive. When steps are being used at night, with poor or no light, and the whole structure is moving, often irregular motion. The more extreme motion occurring when the pressure to move quickly is most intense, it would be a bad idea to have unpredictable tread intervals.
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Jaager reacted to Peanut6 in Ladder steps
What I have to share is based upon my facilities drafting days of yore. It doesn't directly apply to ships, of any era, but I can't see how the logic could not be carried over. Yes there is a strict code for stairs. But it does have flexibility built into it in order to handle all situations. There is a min/max for tread depth and a min/max for riser height. What those numbers are have escaped me after all these years. The number of steps, odd or even, is not a factor. The key factor is that the riser distance must be consistent for that particular flight of stairs. This distance is to include the surface you are standing on to the top of the first step and the surface of the last step to the destination surface. There are other factors that affect rise and run in a flight of stairs but I won't go into that now. The one consistency I've seen in all the build logs I've read is the inconsistency in the distance from one deck to another. Not only between ships of different eras, but within different types of ships within the same era to even the decks within the same ship. IMHNO (In My Humble Newbie Opinion) I would think that if one would follow the guideline of a consistent riser distance of a "realistic stride/step to scale" you couldn't be faulted. I'd bet that is the "general rule" the shipwrights of old followed.
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Jaager reacted to allanyed in Ladder steps
Jaager, yes there is a strict code today. But, based on the research done on the Georgian staircase article, it was not the case back in those days. And based on the inboard profile drawings I've had a chance to study, it was no different aboard ship. Me thinks that building codes, both marine and land are a good thing!!! 😀
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Jaager got a reaction from RichardG in Copper plating any advice on the jig
If the coat is continuous with no communication between seawater and wood, in theory the microscopic larvae would not detect the presence of wood to invade it.
I think I wrote this before, I do not think that the actual copper was the protection from the mollusk. It was a protection for the fragile protection layers. The copper was also a surface that offered a less tenacious hold for seaweed and barnacles. There was the actual plank bottom, then a a tar - felt - organic fiber layer that was toxic for the larvae, then a softwood sheathing, then copper.
The mollusk lives its development, and wood eating stage within a single piece of wood. It does not migrate to another board. The softwood sheathing scarfs up the microscopic wood seeking larvae. The joins of copper plate to copper plate was not welded. Water must have been able to penetrate. The gaps would have been a wide open highway for microscopic larvae.
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Jaager got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Copper plating any advice on the jig
If the coat is continuous with no communication between seawater and wood, in theory the microscopic larvae would not detect the presence of wood to invade it.
I think I wrote this before, I do not think that the actual copper was the protection from the mollusk. It was a protection for the fragile protection layers. The copper was also a surface that offered a less tenacious hold for seaweed and barnacles. There was the actual plank bottom, then a a tar - felt - organic fiber layer that was toxic for the larvae, then a softwood sheathing, then copper.
The mollusk lives its development, and wood eating stage within a single piece of wood. It does not migrate to another board. The softwood sheathing scarfs up the microscopic wood seeking larvae. The joins of copper plate to copper plate was not welded. Water must have been able to penetrate. The gaps would have been a wide open highway for microscopic larvae.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Copper plating any advice on the jig
If the coat is continuous with no communication between seawater and wood, in theory the microscopic larvae would not detect the presence of wood to invade it.
I think I wrote this before, I do not think that the actual copper was the protection from the mollusk. It was a protection for the fragile protection layers. The copper was also a surface that offered a less tenacious hold for seaweed and barnacles. There was the actual plank bottom, then a a tar - felt - organic fiber layer that was toxic for the larvae, then a softwood sheathing, then copper.
The mollusk lives its development, and wood eating stage within a single piece of wood. It does not migrate to another board. The softwood sheathing scarfs up the microscopic wood seeking larvae. The joins of copper plate to copper plate was not welded. Water must have been able to penetrate. The gaps would have been a wide open highway for microscopic larvae.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Copper plating any advice on the jig
It looks horrible and tacky, I wonder if the copper on a roll that is used for roof flashing was used. It looks so thin and dents so easily. The lengths of the "plates" look too long.
If the ship is afloat, what is below the waterline is unseen. I would wonder if Boston harbor is warn enough for there to be a problem with shipworm mollusk larvae? If the gauge of the sheathing is as thin as it appears, blunt force scrapping of barnacles. mussels, and seaweed would probably damage it.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Badger airbrushes & compressors - sale
I have a question from way back when Badger was about our only choice. The small compressor was just the pump and pulsing was written about as a problem.
The prices now seem to make this not economical, but would patching in a portable air tank ( remote tire inflation ) reduce the pulsing? Would an in-line pressure control valve give more control?
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Badger airbrushes & compressors - sale
I have a question from way back when Badger was about our only choice. The small compressor was just the pump and pulsing was written about as a problem.
The prices now seem to make this not economical, but would patching in a portable air tank ( remote tire inflation ) reduce the pulsing? Would an in-line pressure control valve give more control?
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Painting Problems
Sand off the paint that is not right. Buy a can of shellac (clear or garnet) and one of shellac thinner (likely ethanol). Make a mixture of thinner and shellac 1:1. Use a piece of an old T-shirt to pad it on - just wet no build up. When dry, dress it with a Scotch Brite pad and tack rag it. Give a thought to doing another coat of full strength shellac. A better base for follow-on paint would be difficult to find. It dries fairly quickly and is not messy.
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Jaager reacted to kurtvd19 in Badger airbrushes & compressors - sale
Actually the hose if of adequate length does a good job of removing pulsation as a problem. The test is - take the hose off the compressor and if it doesn't have a tank there will be some pulsation evident. Reattach the hose and w/o an airbrush check the air flow from the hose. The pulsation should not be evident. This works better the longer the hose, but the 6 or 10 ft braided hoses work fine (not at all sure using the thin plastic hoses). If there is pulsation evident from the end of the hose then adding a tank can help.
In all my years of airbrushing using a decent air regulator off the compressor like the photo below with a 8 ft hose I have never had a pulsation issue regardless of the airbrush being used. The regulator acts as an in-line pressure control valve and I would never attempt to use any compressor for airbrushing w/o a pressure regulator. Don't use a regulator in-line closer to the brush but some do but my set up is compact and easy to adjust at the compressor.
I now use a TC910 - below that has a tank but I got it more for the slightly extra capacity than for a tank.
If you have a pulsation issue putting a storage tank in-line would solve any pulsation issue.
Kurt
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Jaager got a reaction from bruce d in Not a typical gun carriage
The US Ex.Ex. had another use for a gun in a launch. They made heavy use of large (35 foot) launches for mapping. What maps available of the invasion of Tarawa were from this expedition. A gun was at a known position. A distant launch, doing soundings would determine its distance from the fixed one by measuring the time between the gun flash and the time it took for the boom to reach them.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Not a typical gun carriage
The US Ex.Ex. had another use for a gun in a launch. They made heavy use of large (35 foot) launches for mapping. What maps available of the invasion of Tarawa were from this expedition. A gun was at a known position. A distant launch, doing soundings would determine its distance from the fixed one by measuring the time between the gun flash and the time it took for the boom to reach them.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Badger airbrushes & compressors - sale
I have a question from way back when Badger was about our only choice. The small compressor was just the pump and pulsing was written about as a problem.
The prices now seem to make this not economical, but would patching in a portable air tank ( remote tire inflation ) reduce the pulsing? Would an in-line pressure control valve give more control?
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Jaager got a reaction from Ed Gibbons in Wood Filler Advice
Ed,
Where is it being used?
If it is POB and filling cracks in a first layer of hull planking, my question is: Why bother? The outer layer of planking will cover the gaps anyway.
If it is to flesh out minor hollows in the planking run, then it should as well as it needs to.
If there are serious hollows, better it would be to use thin strips of wood, PVA bonded at the hollows and sand these scabs into a smooth run.
For places where a clear finished wood is on display, wood flour of the same species mixed with white PVA usually does a fix that takes effort to notice.
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Jaager got a reaction from Keith Black in Wood Filler Advice
Ed,
Where is it being used?
If it is POB and filling cracks in a first layer of hull planking, my question is: Why bother? The outer layer of planking will cover the gaps anyway.
If it is to flesh out minor hollows in the planking run, then it should as well as it needs to.
If there are serious hollows, better it would be to use thin strips of wood, PVA bonded at the hollows and sand these scabs into a smooth run.
For places where a clear finished wood is on display, wood flour of the same species mixed with white PVA usually does a fix that takes effort to notice.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Wood Filler Advice
Ed,
Where is it being used?
If it is POB and filling cracks in a first layer of hull planking, my question is: Why bother? The outer layer of planking will cover the gaps anyway.
If it is to flesh out minor hollows in the planking run, then it should as well as it needs to.
If there are serious hollows, better it would be to use thin strips of wood, PVA bonded at the hollows and sand these scabs into a smooth run.
For places where a clear finished wood is on display, wood flour of the same species mixed with white PVA usually does a fix that takes effort to notice.
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